复坡珊瑚礁地形规则波传播特性试验研究

针对带礁缘的复坡珊瑚礁地形,开展4组礁坪水位条件下、不同入射波高和波周期相组合的系列组次规则波试验,分析波高和增水的沿礁变化过程,研究深水波高、波周期和环境水位对破碎波高、破碎位置、礁坪增水和传递波高的影响规律,拟合给出试验地形下的参数化公式。研究表明:破碎波高和破碎位置随深水波高和波周期的增大而增大,受礁坪水位的影响相对较小;礁坪增水和传递波高受礁坪水位的影响较大,增水随水位的抬升而减小,传递波高随水位的抬升而增大;破碎波高和深水波高的比值与深水波陡相关;传递波高和深水波高的比值与礁坪水深深水波高比相关;量纲一破碎位置（破碎点至礁边的水平距离与礁边处浅水波长的比值）及量纲一礁坪增水（礁坪增水和深水波高的比值）均可通过礁边水深与深水波高比建立参数化公式。     

复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上波浪破碎的试验研究

通过波浪水槽试验,研究了珊瑚礁地形上规则波的破碎特征,包括破碎类型、破碎波高、破碎位置以及破碎带宽度。试验在带礁缘的复合坡度断面下进行,测试了两种水位下系列波高和波周期相组合的工况。试验研究了波浪破碎类型的区分标准,评估了已有四类破碎指标在复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上的适用性,并给出了描述破碎位置和破碎带宽度的经验公式。结果表明:礁边水深深水波高比可较好地区分波浪的破碎类型;四类破碎指标关系式中以破碎波高深水波高比之于深水波陡的相关性为最优;深水波高和礁边水深是影响破碎位置和破碎带宽度的主要因素,随着深水波高礁边水深比的增大,量纲一破碎位置（破碎点与礁边的距离和礁边处浅水波长的比值）逐渐减小,量纲一破碎带宽度（破碎带宽度和礁边浅水波长的比值）逐渐增大。     

波浪在珊瑚岸礁礁坪上传播变形的数值研究

波浪的传播变形对珊瑚岛礁附近的营养物质输送以及近岸珊瑚沙运动都起着关键的作用,同时也是礁盘顶部建筑物在设计和施工过程中需要重点考虑的因素,因此,对波浪在礁坪上的传播变形进行研究具有重要意义。利用FUNWAVE 2.0数值模型模拟了不规则波浪在不同形状岸礁上的传播变形过程,讨论了礁前斜坡坡度以及珊瑚底面粗糙程度对波浪在礁坪上传播变形的影响。结果显示,随着礁坡斜率增大,不对称度参数绝对值的增长趋势逐渐变缓,波浪在光滑礁坪上的不对称度绝对值要略大于粗糙底面上的值,而不同地形下计算得到的波浪偏度参数则基本相同。说明礁坡坡度对波浪的不对称度特征具有显著影响,礁坪粗糙度的影响则相对较小,而上述因素对波浪偏度的影响则完全可以忽略。给出了考虑这两个影响因素的礁坪区域内波浪偏度和不对称度经验公式。     

波浪作用下砂质海床孔隙水压力的响应规律实验研究

采用波流水槽模型试验的方法,研究了规则波和不规则波作用下砂质海床的孔隙水压力响应问题,其中主要考虑不同深度、波高及周期对孔隙水压力的影响,从而得出孔压变化规律。当周期和波高不变时,由波浪引起的孔隙水压力随水深的增加而逐渐减小。同一水深和波高条件下,由波浪引起的孔隙水压力随周期变大而变大;当水深和周期固定时,由波浪引起的孔隙水压力随波高的增加而增加。     

潮汐流影响下珊瑚岛礁附近波浪传播变形和增水试验

为揭示潮汐流影响下珊瑚岛礁附近波浪的运动特征,通过波流水槽试验对潮汐流存在下规则波的传播变形和增水规律进行了研究,测试了一系列的潮汐流流量并对比正向流、反向流以及无流的情况。研究结果表明:反向流使波浪破碎点向远海侧移动,正向流则使其向海岸侧移动,反向流存在时破碎带内的湍流较正向流时更为剧烈;反向流时破碎点附近入射波能量由主频波向高次谐波发生转移更为显著;潮汐流的存在对波浪反射、透射和能量耗散并无明显影响;正向流造成礁坪上波浪增水减少,反向流则促进增水的增长,增水最大值与潮汐流流量间存在显著的线性关系。研究成果可望为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。     

海啸波作用下泥沙运动——Ⅰ.岸滩剖面变化分析

在波浪水槽实验的基础上,对海啸波作用下的岸滩剖面演变规律开展研究。实验采用1/10~1/20的组合坡度,考虑3种不同的水深,选取N波作为入射波,同时采用规则波和非规则波进行对比研究。实验对波高、波浪的上爬、回落和水跃过程、每个波作用后的地形进行了测量和记录。研究结果表明,水动力特性的不同造成了N波与规则波和不规则波作用下不同的岸滩剖面演变特点。N波作用下发生了明显的岸滩冲刷和淤积,水流回落时滩肩发生冲刷,高速薄层回流和出渗水流作用是滩肩冲刷的主要原因,离岸区水跃发生水流挟沙力降低,泥沙淤积呈沙坝剖面。     

规则波作用下垂直圆管负浮力射流的数值模拟

高密度盐水排放是海水淡化领域一个复杂和常见的物理现象。为研究波浪作用下盐水射流的水动力特性,建立了规则波作用下垂直圆管负浮力射流三维水动力数学模型。利用试验数据对数值计算结果进行验证,两者吻合较好。基于数值计算结果,分析规则波作用下垂直圆管负浮力射流流体扩散特征,研究规则波对负浮力射流三维时均速度以及瞬时浓度的影响。结果发现:入射波波高和周期对射流中轴上量纲一平均垂向速度的衰减指数影响不大,而对衰减系数影响较大;随着波高或波周期的增加,射流特征速度半宽增加,射流中轴上量纲一平均垂向速度的衰减系数减小,有助于射流流体在环境水体中的扩散。另外,建立了考虑浮力效应的波-射流动量比影响的射流中轴上量纲一平均速度衰减系数、平均特征半宽公式,可以为相关实际工程提供一定的参考。     

波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型

基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型,模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应,应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散,采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布,考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好,比较分析表明,所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大,可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。     

SBF 4-1波浪方向浮标测量系统

波浪方向浮标测量系统是测取波浪及其传播方向的遥测仪器。主要由海上浮标测量系统、遥测及终端数据处理系统组成,是海洋开发、海洋环境调查和预报以及海洋科学研究的重要的波浪观测仪器。中科院海洋所自1985年开始,在研制遥测波浪浮标的基础上对波向浮标技术和波浪方向谱计算模式进行了探索和研制。该仪器除能在现场测取波高、波周期、波面倾斜方位等参数外,并可在观测现场实时处理出波浪能谱、方向谱和波浪传播方向代表值及波高、波周期等特征值。     

海岸带波浪破碎区污染物运动的实验研究

由于波浪在岸滩上的演化、破碎使得污染物在海岸带的运动规律变得十分复杂。通过实验模拟,研究了缓坡海岸(坡度为1:100和1:40)波浪破碎区污染物的运动规律,给出了不同时刻污染物在该区域的运动变化趋势。讨论并分析了在斜向规则入射波、不规则入射波及不同入射波波高作用下污染物在沿岸波浪破碎区域的运动变化方向和相应的运动范围分布规律。给出并分析了近岸波浪破碎区域污染物运动分布规律。     

孤立波作用下淹没垂直桩柱局部冲刷试验研究

孤立波在近岸地区会引起剧烈的泥沙运动,导致采用淹没式桩基础的近海建筑物周围发生局部冲刷,严重影响近海建筑物的稳定性。采用中值粒径为0.22 mm的均匀沙在波浪水槽中布置平底沙床,在两种不同桩径条件下,对孤立波作用下淹没桩周围的冲刷发展过程进行了记录分析,探讨入射波高及淹没率对局部冲刷的影响,并从冲刷形态方面对比分析了孤立波与单向水流、规则波作用下局部冲刷的异同。结果表明:在相同淹没率条件下,随着入射波高的增大,桩周冲刷形态由双喇叭型向瞬态型冲刷形态发展;在相同入射波高条件下,桩高与桩径比h_c/D位于1～7范围内,淹没率对桩前最大冲刷深度影响不大,而桩后最大冲刷深度随淹没率增大而减小,并给出了淹没因子K_s与淹没率的多项关系曲线;孤立波与单向流作用下的淹没桩周围地形变化相似,而与小周期规则波作用下的地形变化差异较大。对实测数据进行多元回归得到冲刷深度的综合计算公式,经验证该公式计算值与实测值最大误差不超过7%。     

平直沙坝海岸叠加波浪的裂流试验

为研究叠加波浪场的裂流特征,在平直沙坝海岸地形进行了叠加波浪形成的沿岸波高周期性变化的裂流试验研究。试验中叠加波浪是由波浪在垂直岸线的丁坝反射所形成的两列交叉波浪叠加产生,交叉波浪是具有等频率但入射角相反的两波列。通过对叠加波浪节腹点垂直岸线位置浪高的测量和沙坝范围内沿岸布置的声学多普勒测速仪流速测量结果来分析沙坝海岸丁坝反射波形成的裂流特性,讨论了波浪节腹点对裂流位置和裂流空间尺度的影响。对不同周期情况在x=5 m沙坝顶处的速度剖面对比,分析了不同周期对裂流的影响。     

Influence of waves and horseshoe crab spawning on beach morphology and sediment grain-size characteristics on a sandy estuarine beach

The effects of wave action and horseshoe crab spawning on the topography and grain-size characteristics on the foreshore of an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA were evaluated using data collected over six consecutive high tides. Data were gathered inside and outside a 25 m long exclosure constructed to create a control area free of disturbance by crabs. The density of crabs in the swash zone outside the exclosure was 8·1 organisms m⁻². The maximum depth of sediment activation on the upper foreshore where spawning occurred was 0·103 m during periods characterized by low significant wave heights: < 0·08 m. This depth is greater than the depth of activation by waves alone during moderate significant wave heights of 0·16–0·18 m but less than the maximum depth (0·127 m) recorded when spawning occurred during periods of moderate wave heights. Spawning, combined with moderate wave heights, creates a concave upper foreshore that is similar to the type of profile change that occurs during storms, thus lowering the wave-energy threshold for morphological response. Spawning during low wave heights increases the mean grain size and sorting of surface sediments caused by the addition of gravel to the swash. Sedimentological differences are most pronounced on the upper foreshore, and data from this location may be most useful when using grain-size characteristics to interpret the effect of spawning in the sedimentary record. Depths of sediment reworking by horseshoe crabs can be greater than those by subsequent storm waves, so evidence of spawning can be preserved on non-eroding beaches. Greater depth of activation by horseshoe crab spawning than by waves alone, even during moderate-energy conditions, reveals the importance of crab burrowing in releasing eggs to the water column and making them available for shore birds.     

Shallow water wave spectral characteristics along the eastern Arabian Sea

The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves were studied at two locations along the eastern Arabian Sea during 2011. Wave spectra were single-peaked from June to October and predominantly double-peaked during the rest of the year. Even though both locations were subjected to open sea conditions, the percentage of single-peaked spectra was large (63 %) in the southern location compared to a location 350 km north (46 %), because of variation in local winds. Throughout the year, the double-peaked spectra were mostly swell dominated in the southern location. In the northern location, the double-peaked spectra during January to May and December were sea dominated due to the strong local winds blowing from north-west. For the double-peaked wave spectra, the average difference between the spectral peaks was 0.11 Hz, and the average ratio of the spectral energy density at the two peaks was 0.5. Significant wave heights up to 4.2 m and a maximum wave height of 7 m were observed during the south-west monsoon period. Fifty per cent of the waves recorded had spectral peak wave periods between 6 and 12 s. The narrowest directional spectra were found for waves with 10–12-s peak wave periods. Inverse wave age values were biased towards lower values with peaks in the range of 0.2–0.6, indicating a swell-driven wave regime along the eastern Arabian Sea.     

Shoreline variability of an urban beach fronted by a beachrock reef from video imagery

This contribution presents the results of a study on the shoreline variability of a natural perched urban beach (Ammoudara, N. Crete, Greece). Shoreline variability was monitored in high spatio-temporal resolution using time series of coastal video images and a novel, fully automated 2-D shoreline detection algorithm. Ten-month video monitoring showed that cross-shore shoreline change was, in some areas, up to 8 m with adjacent sections of the shoreline showing contrasting patterns of beach loss or gain. Variability increased in spring/early summer and stabilized until the end of the summer when partial beach recovery commenced. Correlation of the patterns of beach change with wave forcing (as recorded at an offshore wave buoy) is not straightforward; the only discernible association was that particularly energetic waves from the northern sector can trigger changes in the patterns of shoreline variability and that increased variability might be sustained by increases in offshore wave steepness. It was also found that the fronting beachrock reef exerts significant geological control on beach hydrodynamics. Hydrodynamic modelling and observations during an energetic event showed that the reef can filter wave energy in a highly differential manner, depending on its local architecture. In some areas, the reef allows only low-energy waves to impinge on the shoreline, whereas elsewhere penetration of higher waves is facilitated by the low elevation and limited width of the reef or by the presence of an inlet. Wave/reef interaction can also generate complex circulation patterns, including rip currents that appeared to be also constrained by the reef architecture.     

Rogue events in spatiotemporal numerical simulations of unidirectional waves in basins of different depth

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solution of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The spatiotemporal data are collected and processed providing information about the wave height probability and typical appearance of abnormally high waves (rogue waves). The waves are considered at different water depths ranging from deep to relatively shallow cases (k _p h > 0.8, where k _p is the peak wavenumber, and h is the local depth). The asymmetry between front and rear rogue wave slopes is identified; it becomes apparent for sufficiently high waves in rough sea states at all considered depths k _p h ≥ 1.2. The lifetimes of rogue events may reach up to 30–60 wave periods depending on the water depth. The maximum observed wave has a height of about three significant wave heights. A few randomly chosen in situ time series from the Baltic Sea are in agreement with the general picture of the numerical simulations.