Spectral wave characteristics along the central coast of eastern Red Sea

The Jeddah coast lies in the central eastern Red Sea, which is characterized by the predominant northwest winds and the associated wind waves throughout the year. A detailed investigation on the spectral wave characteristics in the nearshore regions of the Jeddah coast has not been carried out yet, primarily due to the lack of data. In the present study, we have analyzed the available wave spectra measured at two nearshore locations along the Jeddah coast using wave gauges. The wave spectra were separated into wind sea and swell components using a frequency-based algorithm, and the integral wave parameters corresponding to each component were derived. Although the measurements were limited to the summer season, notable features such as the diurnal variability and the superimposition of wind seas and swells have been identified from the spectra. The superimposition is mainly due to the interaction of the young swells propagated from the northern Red Sea and the local breezes prevailing along the coast at certain periods in a diurnal cycle. Based on the wave speed calculations and the estimated time shifts between the wind and waves, the potential swell regions have been backtracked.     

Monsoon control on trace metal fluxes in the deep Arabian Sea

Particulate fluxes of aluminium, iron, magnesium and titanium were measured using six time-series sediment traps deployed in the eastern, central and western Arabian Sea. Annual Al fluxes at shallow and deep trap depths were 0.47 and 0.46 g m^-2 in the western Arabian Sea, and 0.33 and 0.47 g m^-2 in the eastern Arabian Sea. There is a difference of about 0.9–1.8 g m^-2y^-1 in the lithogenic fluxes determined analytically (residue remaining after leaching out all biogenic particles) and estimated from the Al fluxes in the western Arabian Sea. This arises due to higher fluxes of Mg (as dolomite) in the western Arabian Sea (6–11 times higher than the eastern Arabian Sea). The estimated dolomite fluxes at the western Arabian Sea site range from 0.9 to 1.35gm^-2y^-1. Fe fluxes in the Arabian Sea were less than that of the reported atmospheric fluxes without any evidence for the presence of labile fraction/excess of Fe in the settling particles. More than 75% of Al, Fe, Ti and Mg fluxes occurred during the southwest (SW) monsoon in the western Arabian Sea. In the eastern Arabian Sea, peak Al, Fe, Mg and Ti fluxes were recorded during both the northeast (NE) and SW monsoons. During the SW monsoon, there exists a time lag of around one month between the increases in lithogenic and dolomite fluxes. Total lithogenic fluxes increase when the southern branch of dust bearing northwesterlies is dragged by the SW monsoon winds to the trap locations. However, the dolomite fluxes increase only when the northern branch of the northwesterlies (which carries a huge amount of dolomite accounting 60% of the total dust load) is dragged, from further north, by SW monsoon winds. The potential for the use of Mg/Fe ratio as a paleo-monsoonal proxy is examined.     

Synoptic forcing of wave states in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, at an offshore location

A bottom-mounted Recording Doppler Current Profiler was placed at an offshore location (depth of 34 m) in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, from July through December 2007 (UTC) with the objective of linking observed wave activity—wind-sea and swells—to their synoptic drivers. A total of 47 intervals of elevated wave state were recorded: 29 exceeding 1 m significant wave height (SWH), 16 exceeding 2 m SWH, and 3 m exceeded on two occasions; during one of those, a SWH of 4 m was observed. Detailed analysis of the two large events, including comparison with high-resolution reanalysis wind data (North America Regional Reanalysis), showed wave direction from the east, varied about 15° to the north (counterclockwise) from the wind direction, and current flow in the opposite direction (from the west). This is thought to be the influence of a strong “wind-sea” presence. Regarding classic wave limitations, although the SE Chukchi Sea is a large embayment bordered by land to the east, fetch limitations from the northeast and southeast did not appear to be a constraint for the wind speeds indicated by reanalysis. These two events appeared to be driven by winds associated with cyclonic systems that moved into the eastern Bering Sea and stalled. Examination of smaller waves associated with these events suggested that waves of 1.5 m SWH or less are likely part of another regime and can either be swell or wind-sea, moving in from the open Chukchi Sea to the northwest or through the Bering Strait to the south.     

A study on reflection pattern of swells from the shoreline of peninsular India

Information on reflected surface gravity waves from the shoreline is required for understanding the coastal hydrodynamics. We have quantified the reflected swells (frequency band 0.045–0.12 Hz) from the west and east coast of India based on the spectral wave data derived from the directional waverider buoys. Reflection coefficient, ratio of the reflected and incident spectral energy, was used to quantify the reflected waves. Influence of the seasons, cyclone, relative depth, land/sea breeze, tides and tidal current on the reflected waves were examined. For the locations off the west coast of India, seasons have large impact on the reflection coefficient and were relatively less during the monsoon season due to the increase in incident wave energy. Locations off the east coast of India show almost the same reflection coefficient throughout the year and have no significant seasonal variations. The reflection coefficient off Puducherry was higher than that for other locations due to the low incident wave energy. The reflection coefficient was low during the cyclone period, but the reflected energy during cyclone was higher than that during the normal condition due to the high incident wave energy. High-energy reflected waves show large variation with tide due to the trapping and dissipation of reflected wave by bottom friction and this effect cause low reflection in deep water location than shallow water location. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase in relative depth off west coast of India.     

Circulation and water masses of the Arabian Sea

The dynamics and thermodynamics of the surface layer of the Arabian Sea, north of about 10N, are dominated by the monsoon-related annual cycle of air-sea fluxes of momentum and heat. The currents in open-sea regime of this layer can be largely accounted for by Ekman drift and the thermal field is dominated by local heat fluxes. The geostrophic currents in open-sea subsurface regime also show a seasonal cycle and there is some evidence that signatures of this cycle appear as deep as 1000 m. The forcing due to Ekman suction is an important mechanism for the geostrophic currents in the central and western parts of the Sea. Recent studies suggest that the eastern part is strongly influenced by the Rossby waves radiated by the Kelvin waves propagating along the west coast of India. The circulation in the coastal region off Oman is driven mainly by local winds and there is no remotely driven western boundary current. Local wind-driving is also important to the coastal circulation off western India during the southwest monsoon but not during the northeast monsoon when a strong (approximately 7 × 10⁶m³/sec) current moves poleward against weak winds. This current is driven by a pressure gradient which forms along this coast during the northeast monsoon due to either thermohaline-forcing or due to the arrival of Kelvin waves from the Bay of Bengal. The present speculation about flow of bottom water (deeper than about 3500 m) in the Arabian Sea is that it moves northward and upwells into the layer of North Indian Deep Water (approximately 1500–3500m). It is further speculated that the flow in this layer consists of a poleward western boundary current and a weak equatorward flow in the interior. It is not known if there is an annual cycle associated with the deep and the bottom water circulation.     

Synoptic forcing of wave states in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, at nearshore locations

Two bottom-mounted recording Doppler current profilers (RDCP) were deployed at nearshore locations (approximately 3 and 8 km offshore, in about 18 m water depth) in the southeast Chukchi Sea, Alaska, from October 2009 to September 2010 (UTC) with the goal of linking observed wave activity—wind-sea and swells—to their synoptic drivers. The northerly RDCP recorded a total of 16 events of elevated wave states: 15 exceeding 1 m significant wave height (SWH), and 1 exceeding 2 m SWH. The southerly RDCP recorded a total of 25 events of elevated wave states: 23 exceeding 1 m SWH, 2 m exceeded on two occasions and a SWH of 3 m was observed. Detailed analysis of the three large events (i.e., SWH events ≥2 m), including comparison with high-resolution reanalysis wind data (North America regional reanalysis), strongly suggested the wave energy evolved from a distant storm and would be defined as swell. Due to the close proximity of the shoreline to the east of the instruments, wind speeds based on reanalysis were constrained so fetch was westerly. Wave direction was also westerly, varying about 25° to the north (clockwise) or the south (counterclockwise) from the wind direction which is believed to be influenced by fetch and the strong current flow located where the nearshore RDCPs were deployed. Shore-fast sea ice is also believed to play a role but shown to only dampen wave activity for 3 months (January–April 2010), thus implying early ice breakup in this nearshore region. Two events appeared to be driven by southwesterly winds associated with cyclonic systems that moved into the eastern Chukchi Sea and then stalled. However, the second storm event appeared to be driven by northwesterly winds associated with a cyclonic system over the Brooks Range, a less common occurrence. Given that the typical storm activity in the region occurs as storms move into the Bering Sea in fall, this represents another potential source for wave conditions posing danger to people on the water or to coastal infrastructure.     

Response of west Indian coastal regions and Kavaratti lagoon to the November-2009 tropical cyclone Phyan

Response of the coastal regions of eastern Arabian Sea (AS) and Kavaratti Island lagoon in the AS to the tropical cyclonic storm `Phyan??, which developed in winter in the south-eastern AS and swept northward along the eastern AS during 9?C12 November 2009 until its landfall at the northwest coast of India, is examined based on in situ and satellite-derived measurements. Wind was predominantly south/south-westerly and the maximum wind speed (U<sub>10</sub>) of ~16 m/s occurred at Kavaratti Island region followed by ~8 m/s at Dwarka (Gujarat) and ~7 m/s at Diu (located south of Dwarka) as well as two southwest Indian coastal locations (Mangalore and Malpe). All other west Indian coastal sites recorded maximum wind speed of ~5?C6 m/s. Gust factor (i.e., gust-to-speed ratio) during peak storm event was highly variable with respect to topography, with steep hilly stations (Karwar and Ratnagiri) and proximate thick and tall vegetation-rich site (Kochi) exhibiting large values (~6), whereas Island station (Kavaratti) exhibiting ~1 (indicating consistently steady wind). Rainfall in association with Phyan was temporally scattered, with the highest 24-h accumulated precipitation (~60 mm) at Karwar and ~45 mm at several other west Indian coastal sites. Impact of Phyan on the west Indian coastal regions was manifested in terms of intensified significant waves (~2.2 m at Karwar and Panaji), sea surface cooling (~5°C at Calicut), and moderate surge (~50 cm at Verem, Goa). The surface waves were south-westerly and the peak wave period (T <sub>p</sub>) shortened from ~10?C17 s to ~5?C10 s during Phyan, indicating their transition from the long-period `swell?? to the short-period `sea??. Reduction in the spread of the mean wave period (T _z) from ~5?C10 s to a steady period of ~6 s was another manifestation of the influence of the cyclone on the surface wave field. Several factors such as (1) water piling-up at the coast supported by south/south-westerly wind and seaward flow of the excess water in the rivers due to heavy rains, (2) reduction of piling-up at the coast, supported by the upstream penetration of seawater into the rivers, and (3) possible interaction of upstream flow with river run-off, together resulted in the observed moderate surge at the west Indian coast. Despite the intense wind forcing, Kavaratti Island lagoon experienced insignificantly weak surge (~7 cm) because of lack of river influx and absence of a sufficiently large land boundary required for the generation and sustenance of wave/wind-driven water mass piling-up at the land?Csea interface.     

Observations of sea and swell using directional wave buoy

Directional wave data collected during an experiment at a location on the continental shelf of the south west coast of India using a WAVEC buoy, have been analysed based on the technique of Kuiket al (1988). The observed wave spectra indicate that the wave field is composed of sea waves (with peaks around 0·18 and 0·23 Hz) travelling nearly in the wind direction (WNW-N), and lower frequency (0·09 Hz) swell waves from the South. The parameterization of the wave directional spread shows that both local wind conditions and nonlinear wave-wave interactions control the shape of the directional distribution. The directional distribution is generally bimodal in the transition region between sea and swell and at higher frequencies when rapid changes in wind speed and direction occur.     

舟山岛东北部沿海实测台风浪特性

为了解影响舟山岛的台风浪特性,基于舟山岛东北部沿海水域深、浅水两个测站同步测量的6个台风过程波浪资料,统计分析了两测站的波参数变化和谱变化特性,探讨了波浪变化的原因。研究显示:①灿鸿过程的深、浅水站最大波高均大于其他5个台风浪过程;②多数台风浪过程深水站波向主要为东及东南东向,而浅水站主要为东、东北东及东北向,水下地形对波向变化起主要作用;③不同路径台风对两测站谱型有明显影响,灿鸿、巴蓬、黄蜂和天鹅过程的波浪在两站以双峰谱为主,苏迪罗和杜鹃过程深水站波浪以单峰谱居多,浅水站则多峰谱多于单峰谱。研究成果对沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾有重要参考价值。     

Improving the level of seismic hazard parameters in Saudi Arabia using earthquake location

Saudi Arabia is characterized as largely aseismic; however, the tectonic plate boundaries that surround it are very active. To improve characterization of seismicity and ground motion hazard, the Saudi Arabian Digital Seismic Network (SANDSN) was installed in 1998 and continues to be operated by the Saudi Geological Survey (SGS) and King Abdulaziz City for Science and Technology (KACST). This article describes research performed to improve seismic hazard parameters using earthquake location and magnitude calibration of the high-quality SANDSN data. The SANDSN consists of 38 seismic stations, 27 broadband, and 11 short period. All data are telemetered in real time to a central facility at KACST in Riyadh. The SANDSN stations show low background noise levels and have good signal detection capabilities; however, some stations show cultural noise at frequencies above 1.0 Hz. We assessed the SANDSN event location capabilities by comparing KACST locations with well-determined locations derived from ground truth or global observations. While a clear location bias exists when using the global average iasp91 earth model, the locations can be improved by using regional models optimized for different tectonic source regions. The article presents detailed analysis of some events and Dead Sea explosions where we found gross errors in estimated locations. New velocity models we calculated that should improve estimated locations of regional events in three specific regions include (1) Gulf of Aqabah—Dead Sea region, (2) Arabian Shield, and (3) Arabian Platform. Recently, these models were applied to the SANDSN to improve local and teleseismic event locations and to develop an accurate magnitude scale for Saudi Arabia. The Zagros Thrust presents the most seismic hazard to eastern Saudi Arabia because of the frequent occurrence of earthquakes. Although these events are 200 km or further from the Arabian coast, wave propagation through sedimentary structure of the Gulf causes long-duration ground motions for periods between 3 and 10 s. Such ground motions could excite response in large engineered structures (e.g., tall buildings and long bridges) such as was experienced after the November 22, 2005 Qeshm Island earthquake off the southern coast of Iran.     

The influence of Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) on biogeochemistry of carbon in the Arabian Sea during 1997–1998

Data on ocean color chlorophylla (Chl a) obtained using Sea-viewing Wide Field of view Sensor (SeaWiFS), sea surface temperature (SST) by Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer (AVHRR), and sea surface height (SSH) by TOPEX/POSEIDON were analyzed to examine the influence of Indian Ocean Dipole (IOD) on the physical and biogeochemical processes with special reference to phytoplankton primary production and air-sea fluxes of carbon dioxide in the Arabian Sea. Positive SST anomalies (SSTA) were found in the Arabian Sea (0.4 to 1.8°C) with higher values in the southwestern Arabian Sea that decreased towards north. The SSH anomalies (SSHA) and turbulent kinetic energy anomalies (TKEA) suggest decreased mixing during the IOD compared to the normal period. Chlorophylla displayed significant negative correlations with SSTA and SSHA in the Arabian Sea. Consistently, Chla showed negative anomalies (low Chl a) during the IOD period which could be due to reduced inputs of nutrients. The photic zone integrated primary production decreased by 30% during the IOD period compared to the normal whereas pCO₂ levels were higher (by 10–20μatm). However, sea to air fluxes were lower by 10% during the IOD period due to prevailing weaker winds. Primary production seems to be the key process controlling the surface pCO₂ levels in the Arabian Sea. In future, the influence of IOD on ecosystem structure, export production and bacterial respiration rates are to be probed throughin situ time-series observations.     

An assessment of wind forcing impact on a spectral wave model for the Indian Ocean

The focus of the present study is the assessment of the impact of wind forcing on the spectral wave model MIKE 21 SW in the Indian Ocean region. Three different wind fields, namely the ECMWF analyzed winds, the ECMWF blended winds, and the NCEP blended winds have been used to drive the model. The wave model results have been compared with in-situ observations and satellite altimeter data. This study also evaluated the performance of the wind products during local phenomenon like sea breeze, since it has a significant impact on the wave prediction in the Indian coastal region. Hence we explored the possibility of studying the impact of diurnal variation of winds on coastal waves using different wind fields. An analysis of the model performance has also been made during high wind conditions with the inference that blended winds generate more realistic wave fields in the high wind conditions and are able to produce the growth and decay of waves more realistically.     

Rogue events in spatiotemporal numerical simulations of unidirectional waves in basins of different depth

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solution of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The spatiotemporal data are collected and processed providing information about the wave height probability and typical appearance of abnormally high waves (rogue waves). The waves are considered at different water depths ranging from deep to relatively shallow cases (k _p h > 0.8, where k _p is the peak wavenumber, and h is the local depth). The asymmetry between front and rear rogue wave slopes is identified; it becomes apparent for sufficiently high waves in rough sea states at all considered depths k _p h ≥ 1.2. The lifetimes of rogue events may reach up to 30–60 wave periods depending on the water depth. The maximum observed wave has a height of about three significant wave heights. A few randomly chosen in situ time series from the Baltic Sea are in agreement with the general picture of the numerical simulations.     

Air-sea interaction over the tropical Indian Ocean during several contrasting monsoon seasons

Monthly mean anomaly fields of various parameters like sea surface temperature, air temperature, wind stress, effective radiation at the surface, heat gain over the ocean and the total heat loss between a good and bad monsoon composite and the evaporation rates over the Arabian Sea and southern hemisphere have been studied over the tropical Indian Ocean. The mean rates of evaporation on a seasonal scale over the Arabian Sea during a good and bad monsoon composites were equal (about 2·48 × 10¹⁰ tons/day). The evaporation rates over the southern hemisphere were greater during all the months. The mean evaporation rates over the southern hemisphere on a seasonal scale for the good and bad monsoon composites were 4·4 × 10¹⁰ and 4·6 × 10¹⁰ tons/day respectively. The maximum evaporation rates over the southern hemisphere were observed in August. The anomalies of wind stress, effective radiation at the surface and the heat gain over the ocean also exhibit large variations in August, as compared to other monsoon months.     

Operational wave prediction of extreme storms in Northern Europe

The disastrous effects of numerous winter storms on the marine environment in the North Sea and the Baltic Sea during the last decade show that wind waves generated by strong winds actually represent natural hazards and require high quality wave forecast systems as warning tools to avoid losses due to the impact of rough seas. Hence, the operational wave forecast system running at the German Weather Service including a regional wave model for the North Sea and the Baltic Sea is checked extensively whether it provides reasonable wave forecasts, especially for periods of extraordinary high sea states during winter storms. For two selected extreme storm events that induced serious damage in the area of interest, comprehensive comparisons between wave measurements and wave model forecast data are accomplished. Spectral data as well as integrated parameters are considered, and the final outcome of the corresponding comparisons and statistical analysis is encouraging. Over and above the capability to provide good short-term forecast results, the regional wave model is able to predict extreme events as severe winter storms connected with extraordinary high waves already about 2 days in advance. Therefore, it represents an appropriate warning tool for offshore activities and coastal environment.     

Evidences of CO<Subscript>2</Subscript> Leakage During the Last Deglaciation: The Need to Understand Deep-ocean Carbonate Chemistry of the Arabian Sea

It is generally accepted view that the ventilation of Southern Ocean during the last deglaciation was the key factor in atmospheric CO₂ rise. Further, other sites were identified, like the western equatorial Pacific, the Sub-Antarctic Atlantic and the eastern equatorial Pacific. Now there are evidences that CO₂ was also released from the eastern Arabian Sea. The Arabian Sea is unique in characteristic, being land locked from the North and affected by monsoon winds and seasonal reversing circulations. Furthermore, the CO₂ outgassing noticed during deglaciation makes it an interesting region to understand if the outgassing occurred from the deeper waters and hence led to any rise in deepwater \([\rm{CO}_3^{2-}]\).     

Statistical analysis on extreme wave height

The classical extreme value theory based on generalized extreme value (GEV) distribution and generalized Pareto distribution (GPD) is applied to the wave height estimate based on wave hindcast data covering a period of 31?years for a location in the eastern Arabian Sea. Practical concern such as the threshold selection and model validation is discussed. Estimates of wave height having different return periods are compared with estimates obtained from different distributions. On comparing the distributions fitted to the GEV with annual maximum approach and GPD with peaks over threshold approach have indicated that both GEV and GPD models gave similar or comparable wave height for the study area since there is no multiple storm event in a year. Influence of seasonality on wave height having different return period is also studied.     

Rainfall over Oman and its teleconnection with El Niño Southern Oscillation

The Sultanate of Oman is located in the south-eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula and covers the larger part of the southern coasts of the Arabian Peninsula in both arid and semi-arid environments except for the southern part which is swept by the monsoon affecting the Arabian Sea during the period from June to September. The summer rainfall over Oman shows year-to-year variability, and this is caused by oceanic and atmospheric influences. In the present study, we tried to explore the influence of El Niño on the rainfall over Oman using different data sets. The empirical orthogonal function (EOF) technique employed to the zonal wind at 850 hPa for the 30-year period shows that the second and third modes of EOF are showing high variability over the Oman regions. The corresponding PCs were subjected to FFT analysis, and it showed a peak about 5–6 years. In addition to this, the zonal wind over the Oman regions is correlated with the global zonal wind and found a significant correlation (1 % significant level). It has already been proved that the wind and rainfall during summer monsoon is in phase. Moreover, the spectral analysis of rainfall at Masirah station and the Niño3.4 index show the similar mode of variability indicating a direct relationship. The correlation between rainfall and the Niño3.4 index is also showing a positive significant value, and therefore, it can be concluded that the El Niño in the Pacific favours rainfall over the Oman region.     

Hydrography of the eastern Arabian Sea during summer monsoon 2002

Hydrographic observations in the eastern Arabian Sea (EAS) during summer monsoon 2002 (during the first phase of the Arabian Sea Monsoon Experiment (ARMEX)) include two approximately fortnight-long CTD time series. A barrier layer was observed occasionally during the two time series. These ephemeral barrier layers were caused byin situ rainfall, and by advection of low-salinity (high-salinity) waters at the surface (below the surface mixed layer). These barrier layers were advected away from the source region by the West India Coastal Current and had no discernible effect on the sea surface temperature. The three high-salinity water masses, the Arabian Sea High Salinity Water (ASHSW), Persian Gulf Water (PGW), and Red Sea Water (RSW), and the Arabian Sea Salinity Minimum also exhibited intermittency: they appeared and disappeared during the time series. The concentration of the ASHSW, PGW, and RSW decreased equatorward, and that of the RSW also decreased offshore. The observations suggest that the RSW is advected equatorward along the continental slope off the Indian west coast.     

The warm pool in the Indian Ocean

The structure of the warm pool (region with temperature greater than 28°C) in the equatorial Indian Ocean is examined and compared with its counterpart in the Pacific Ocean using the climatology of Levitus. Though the Pacific warm pool is larger and warmer, a peculiarity of the pool in the Indian Ocean is its seasonal variation. The surface area of the pool changes from 24 × 10⁶ km² in April to 8 × 10⁶ km² in September due to interaction with the southwest monsoon. The annual cycles of sea surface temperature at locations covered by the pool during at least a part of the year show the following modes: (i) a cycle with no significant variation (observed in the western equatorial Pacific and central and eastern equatorial Indian Ocean), (ii) a single maximum/minimum (northern and southern part of the Pacific warm pool and the south Indian Ocean), (iii) two maxima/minima (Arabian Sea, western equatorial Indian Ocean and southern Bay of Bengal), and (iv) a rapid rise, a steady phase and a rapid fall (northern Bay of Bengal).