An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves

Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.     

A higher-order σ-coordinate non-hydrostatic model for nonlinear surface waves

A higher-order non-hydrostatic model in a σ-coordinate system is developed. The model uses an implicit finite difference scheme on a staggered grid to simultaneously solve the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations (NSE) with the free-surface boundary conditions. An integral method is applied to resolve the top-layer non-hydrostatic pressure, allowing for accurately resolving free-surface wave propagation. In contrast to the previous work, a higher-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient due to steep surface waves or rapidly varying topographies. An efficient direct solver is developed to solve the resulting block hepta-diagonal matrix system. Accuracy of the new model is validated by linear and nonlinear standing waves and progressive waves. The model is then used to examine freak (extreme) waves. Features of downshifting focusing location and wave asymmetry characteristics are predicted on the temporal and spatial domains of a freak wave.     

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum.The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schruedinger equation (mNLSE),and some involved influence factors are also discussed.Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied,a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train,and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves.The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.     

Bode积分定理在舵减摇H∞设计中应用

针对舵减摇系统的 H∞混合灵敏度问题,研究了控制系统设计中的限制因素,指出舵减摇控制系统的性能(灵敏度特性)要受到Bode积分定理的约束,因此在船舶横摇自然频率附近的频段内性能不能做到太低.考虑这些限制条件,并从基本的性能要求出发,详细说明了舵减摇系统 H∞设计中权函数的确定.经过多次重新设计和对比,给出了一组最为合理的设计结果.仿真结果表明,所设计的 H∞控制系统满足性能要求,而且取得了很高地减摇效果.     

深水随机波列中畸形波统计特征的研究

本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。     

Numerical study of nonlinear freak wave impact underneath a fixed horizontal deck in 2-D space

Freak waves are extreme and unexpected surface waves with huge wave heights that may lead to severe damage to ships and offshore structures. However, few researches have been conducted to investigate the impact underneath fixed horizontal decks caused by freak waves. To study these phenomena, a 2-D numerical wave tank is built in which nonlinear freak waves based on the Peregrine breather solution are generated. As a validation, a regular-wave-induced underneath impact is simulated and compared to the existing experimental measurements. Then the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact is investigate with different values of deck clearance above the mean free surface. In addition, a comparative simulation of a “large” regular wave based on the 2nd-order Stokes wave theory with the same crest height and wave length of the nonlinear freak wave is carried out to reveal the unique features of the nonlinear freak-wave-induced impact. By applying a fluid–structure interaction (FSI) algorithm in which the bottom deck and front side wall are simplified as Euler beams in 2-D and discretized by the finite element method (FEM), the hydroelastic effects are considered during the impact event. The vertical force acting underneath the bottom deck, the transversal force acting on the front side wall, the structural displacements of the elastic deck and wall are analyzed and discussed respectively, from which meaningful conclusions are drawn.     

Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schrdinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schrdinger (NLS) equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is performed by changing sideband conditions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

Numerical simulation and mechanism analysis of freak waves

A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation(mNLSE) in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split-step,pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation.The validation of the model is firstly verified,then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions,and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution.The results indicate that Benjamin-Feir instability(sideband instability) is an important mechanism for freak wave formation.     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field

The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory.     

随机波浪中畸形波在三维岛礁地形上的试验研究

在试验水池中，开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型，然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱，由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素H_m/H_s（H_m表示波列中的最大波高， H_s为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析，同时，对畸形波波高H_fr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析，发现峰度与畸形波要素i>H_m/H_s呈正相关， H_fr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外，水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

Generation and Properties of Freak Waves in A Numerical Wave Tank

Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves.     

基于非线性模型的畸形波模拟及其时频能量谱研究

采用VOF(volume offluid)方法实现了畸形波的数值模拟.将数值结果与线性理论(方程(5))计算结果进行了对比,发现数值模拟结果更能够反映非线性特征.使用小波分析方法研究了畸形波的时频能量谱,发现形成畸形波的过程中存在很强的波浪非线性相互作用,使得波浪的能量向高频端转化.变水深地形可以加强波浪的非线性相互作用.使得转化到高频端的能量更多,产生畸形程度更大的畸形波.     

Modeling of propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current

A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.     

高阶谱方法建立三维畸形波聚焦模拟模型

三维波浪方向聚焦是畸形波形成机理之一.为了模拟和分析这一现象,在势流理论内基于改进的高阶谱(HOS)方法,给出了时空聚焦方式生成畸形波的三维波浪模型.利用满足周期性边界条件的具有不同频率、不同传播方向的各独立组成波,分隔了计算域内的能量;使各组成波采用等振幅能量分布的形式,聚焦模拟了实验尺度畸形波;把高阶谱方法拓展到大尺度的开敞海域,考虑波浪方向分布的影响,聚焦模拟了大尺度畸形波的发展和形成过程.     

An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed

The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated.     

基于小波变换的畸形波海况时频分析研究

在随机海浪条件下,基于修正的四阶非线性薛定谔方程(m NLS)能够有效地模拟畸形波的非线性演化,文中利用小波变换对演化过程进行分析,并对时频谱特征参数(能量集中区域在时域和频域的分布范围)以及能量集中度进行了定量描述,结果表明,当畸形波出现时,能量可以由低频向高频扩散且能量集中度相对较大。     

Diffraction of multidirectional random waves by multiple rectangular submarine pits

A numerical model is presented to predict the interaction of multidirectional random surface waves with one or more rectangular submarine pits. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method involves the superposition of diffraction solutions based on linearized shallow water wave theory obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous theoretical results for regular waves. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field around multiple submarine pits and navigation channels in many practical situations.