中强潮海滩剖面冲淤过程研究——以北海银滩为例

揭示中、强潮砂质海滩在波浪和潮汐作用下的剖面冲淤变化过程是理解海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。以北部湾北海银滩为例,基于GIS-RTK获取区域2014年7月—2018年2月逐月剖面高程实测数据,结合水文资料分析银滩剖面在外在驱动作用下的变化特征及冲淤机制。结果表明:(1)银滩内滨区域处于净侵蚀状态,低潮带及其以浅区破波带以弱淤积为主,冲流带展现持续、恒定净淤积特征。(2)一年中有263天波浪可引起银滩-3.41 m水深以浅的泥沙频繁扰动,由此造成内滨剖面快速变化,波高0.3～0.5 m的波浪引起的泥沙扰动水深控制冲流带、破波带和低潮带的淤积过程。(3)潮位波动导致波浪作用下海床泥沙活动的范围出现差异,由此引起海滩由陆向海出现"强淤积-弱淤积-弱侵蚀"特征。(4)造成区域较大增水的台风可大幅度提高各级别波浪扰动范围,对银滩整体剖面造成侵蚀。     

莱州三山岛—刁龙嘴近岸海域冲淤特征

以2013年莱州三山岛黄金海岸海滩剖面等实测资料为基础,结合海图和遥感影像等历史资料,利用数值模拟、泥沙起动流速计算和沿岸输沙计算等方法对研究区的冲淤特征进行了研究,并在此基础上初步探讨了影响冲淤演变的主要因素。结果表明,2009—2012年期间王河口至黄金海岸东端之间岸线保持平衡,黄金海岸岸线全线后退,处于侵蚀状态,黄金海岸西段至刁龙嘴之间岸段由于养殖池建设部分岸线向海推进;1984—2004年期间研究区整体处于侵蚀状态,等深线呈不同程度后退;2004—2013年期间研究区整体呈侵蚀状态,近岸海域侵蚀量在0.5~1m之间,7m等深线以深海域呈微淤积状态,淤积量0.5m;人类活动是影响研究区近期冲淤变化的根本因素。     

地下水对浅滩沉积物搬运及海滩剖面变化影响的模拟分析

1　前言在浅滩区 ,沉积物搬运过程对海滩地貌及海岸线变迁有相当重要的意义。其最终的结果是 ,沉积物的净搬运方向决定了海滩现在所处的状态 ,侵蚀状态、淤积状态还是处于平衡状态(Hughes等 ,1 997)。潮间浅滩波浪的往复运动 (即向岸运动和离岸运动 )为沉积物的横向搬运提供了动力。波浪向岸运动时 ,沉积物也向海岸移动 ;反之 ,波浪离岸运动时 ,沉积物也离岸移动。在整个过程中 ,水动力条件相当复杂 ,如作用在海底面上的破碎波或非破碎波的形变 (Guza和Thorn ton,1 982 ;Kobayashi等 ,1 987)。同时 ,波浪运动也与海滩地下水相互作用。在波…     

莱州湾东岸三山岛—石虎嘴近岸海域冲淤演变

根据表层沉积物、3期水深地形及Landsat卫星影像资料,对莱州湾东岸三山岛—石虎嘴近岸8m等深线以浅海域表层沉积物分布、岸线变迁和冲淤变化特征进行了研究。结果表明:研究区表层沉积物为粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、砂、含砾砂。海岸总体处于蚀退状态,三山岛—海北嘴海岸平均蚀退速率由1995—2005年的2.5m/a减小为2005—2015年的2m/a,海北嘴—石虎嘴海岸平均蚀退速率由1995—2005年的2.5m/a增大为2005—2015年的3.5m/a。2004—2015年三山岛—海北嘴海域总体呈侵蚀状态,其中2004—2007年,海北嘴西南侧海湾内以淤积为主,海北嘴西侧300~1 200m范围海域以侵蚀为主;受近岸工程建设的影响,2007—2015年海北嘴西南侧海湾内由淤积变为侵蚀,海北嘴西侧300~1 200m范围海域由侵蚀变为淤积。波浪是控制研究区冲淤演变的主导因素;海岸工程的建设等人类活动是影响研究区冲淤演变的重要因素。     

冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用下日月湾海滩冲淤演变特征

人工岛作为一种新兴的海岸工程, 它的建设所引起的岸滩冲淤和防护问题日益受到人们的关注。本文以海南万宁市日月湾人工岛为例, 通过4期实测海滩剖面数据和多时相遥感影像, 分析了冬季波浪与人工岛联合作用对日月湾海滩冲淤变化的影响, 并结合海区波况, 探究了海滩冲淤变化机理。研究表明, 日月湾海区冬半年的平均有效波高与波浪周期明显强于夏半年, 且波浪强度整体上呈现逐年上升的趋势, 但在人工岛建设前后变化幅度较小; 人工岛建设对海滩地貌变化有强烈影响, 海滩呈现出岛后淤积而两侧侵蚀的显著特征, 岛影区海滩不断淤积, 岸线向海淤进达200m, 甚至可能与人工岛相连形成连岛沙坝, 人工岛后两侧海滩侵蚀, 岸线向陆一侧蚀退最大距离达50m; 海滩在冬季波浪和人工岛共同影响下, 岸滩自北向南依次表现为稳定、侵蚀、淤积、相对稳定、略有侵蚀或淤积、侵蚀、淤积的冲淤变化特征。     

福建湄州岛西南部海滩重塑后剖面的季节变化特征

湄洲岛西南部海滩因1996年建造对台客运码头，引起了海滩剖面的变化，码头前沿淤积而报废。经过5年后，海滩剖面仍未能完全趋于平衡。为了了解码头建设对重塑后海滩的季节变化影响，在2001年3月、7月、10月和12月对码头所在海滩剖面地形进行季节重复测量，并对剖面变化进行比较分析。结果表明，重塑后海滩剖面的季节变化存在区段差异性，码头工程区海滩剖面仍表现为不断淤积，表明5年来工程建设造成海滩重塑后的变化过程还在继续；过渡区海滩剖面较工程区淤积程度减弱，部分剖面表现为侵蚀趋势，但总体逐渐向正常海滩剖面的季节变化方向发展；正常区海滩剖面的季节变化具有一定的规律性，表现为夏季上部侵蚀（后滨和高潮带）下部淤积（低潮带和浅水区），冬季上部淤积下部侵蚀，春、秋两季为中间过渡剖面形态。     

海滩养护后剖面变化过程研究——以北戴河西海滩和中海滩为例

海滩养护目前已成为防治海岸侵蚀的主要措施.养滩工程后海滩剖面发生较大的变化,对剖面的变化过程进行研究,可以理解海滩地貌和动力之间的关系,同时也可以对养滩工程进行评价.通过对北戴河西海滩和中海滩两处养护海滩剖面的养护前、养护初、3个月、6个月、9个月和1年后等时间节点进行剖面形态测量,对海滩剖面的变化进行研究.结果发现填沙区内海滩在养滩工程初,滩肩按照设计增宽约30 n,即原岸线平均向海推进约30 m;养滩3个月后填沙岸段侵蚀较大,两个海滩滩肩宽度共缩小约7～14m;6个月后滩肩宽度相比3个月时再减小4 m,大部分剖面蚀退量开始减小;9个月后和1年后的侵蚀量相对之前更少,有些剖面甚至开始淤积.由于填沙区内侵蚀的物质向两侧运移,使得填沙区外海滩剖面则基本上一直处于淤积状态.1年后滩肩宽度相比养护前宽度增宽约为12～16 m.西海滩和中海滩在1年后填沙保存分别为88.7％和75％,养滩效果良好.     

日照海岸带沙滩侵蚀现状及沉积物粒度特征分析

通过对日照市海岸带2个重点沙滩的现场调查和沉积物粒度计算,综合分析了沙滩的侵蚀现状和粒度参数特征。海滨国家森林公园沙滩北部和南部处于侵蚀状态,中部为缓慢淤积状态;万平口海水浴场沙滩北部、中部总体呈侵蚀趋势,南部为淤积状态。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的平均粒径总体要小于万平口海水浴场沙滩,这与两沙滩的坡度不同有关,平均粒径从滩肩到低潮线逐渐变小。海滨国家森林公园沙滩的分选性要好于万平口海水浴场沙滩,分选系数具有由陆向海、由北向南逐渐变小的趋势。沙滩的滩肩和滩面处频率曲线主要为双峰,峰态平坦,物质来源复杂,低潮线处频率曲线主要为单峰,峰态尖锐,物质来源单一。     

福建岬湾岸型沙质海滩对台风的响应特征

对福建沿岸岬湾岸型沙质海滩的蚀淤变化分析,结果表明:在0418号台风"艾利"袭击下,台风移动路径左侧的两个海滩表现为侵蚀,滩肩蚀低,滨线向陆移动,其中岩下村海滩比卒子村海滩的侵蚀严重,岩下村海滩侵蚀集中在后滨和高潮带,卒子村海滩侵蚀集中在中、低潮带;台风移动路径右侧的衙口村海滩相对比较稳定,仅中潮带出现弱淤积,后滨向陆侧人工堆积沙丘遭受侵蚀.     

养护海滩形态演化特征及时空差异性分析——以秦皇岛浪淘沙浴场为例

海滩养护是修复受侵蚀海滩最快捷而有效的方法,在国内外已得到了大量的工程应用。工程后,海滩地貌形态为适应新的地形、水动力和沉积物条件而调整到新的平衡状态的过程中,海滩剖面发生了先急后缓的形态变化。对秦皇岛浪淘沙浴场养滩工程后连续36个月的海滩形态监测数据进行分析,结果表明海滩单宽体积平均增加约63.87m~3/m,岸线平均向海推进约14m,海滩填沙保存量占填沙总量的79.16%,达到工程目标,养滩效果良好。海滩形态演化过程中,侵蚀强度呈明显的时空差异性:养滩初期海滩侵蚀严重,之后侵蚀强度呈减弱趋势。受波浪、水位、风向等因素的季节性变化影响,平均海滩侵蚀量夏秋季明显高于冬春季。受东侧基岩岬头和填沙量差异的影响,东段位于遮蔽段内,且相对凹岸,利于淤积,而西侧位于切线段,且相对凸岸,侵蚀强烈。     

台风“利奇马”对山东省海阳市海滩演化过程的影响

通过无人机和滩面高程监测等技术手段，获取了1909号台风“利奇马”过境山东省海阳市前后的海滩监测数据，分析海滩在台风前后的整体形态和剖面冲淤变化，探讨了海滩演化对台风的响应规律。结果表明，台风过境后海滩整体形态以风成沙丘面积略有扩大、高?中潮带滩面发生下蚀和微地貌消失等现象为主。台风对海滩的影响以侵蚀为主，造成了约2.43×104 m3的侵蚀量，且主要发生在高潮带滩面；风成沙丘以弱淤积为主，但部分岸段发生严重冲蚀；后滨则受大风和冲越流携沙堆积后以弱淤积为主；中低潮带冲淤主要受其滩面坡度控制，表现为高坡度滩面冲蚀，低坡度滩面弱淤积，且台风过后形成多个小型水下沙坝。整体而言，台风“利奇马”对山东海阳海滩演化造成一定的影响，沉积物收支愈发亏损，进一步加重了海阳海滩的侵蚀程度。     

粤东后江湾海进海岸沉积特征和地貌发育

依据地质钻探和海滩观测资料，分析了后江湾海岸在海进作用下，海岸形成海进地层层序。滨面遭受侵蚀并正在后退和变陡。晚更新统陆相杂色粘土层和砾砂层直接暴露于海底。在海域供沙不足的情况下，整个海湾的海滩被侵蚀后退，而海滩各岸段侵蚀程度存在差异。     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

Sea Level Variations and Geomorphological Changes in the Coastal Belt of Pakistan

The UNEP in its regional seas program in 1989 has included Pakistan in a group of countries which are vulnerable to the impact of rising sea level. If the present trend of sea level rise (SLR) at Karachi continues, in the next 50 years the sea level rise along the Pakistan Coast will be 50 mm (5 cm). Since the rising rates of sea level at Karachi are within the global range of 1-2 mm/year, the trends may be treated as eustatic SLR. Historical air temperature and sea surface temperature (SST) data of Karachi also show an increasing pattern and an increasing trend of about 0.67°C has been registered in the air temperature over the last 35 years, whereas the mean SST in the coastal waters of Karachi has also registered an increasing trend of about 0.3°C in a decade. Sindh coastal zone is more vulnerable to sea level rise than Baluchistan coast, as uplifting of the coast by about 1-2 mm/year due to subduction of Indian Ocean plate is a characteristic of Baluchistan coast. Within the Indus deltaic creek system, the area nearby Karachi is more vulnerable to coastal erosion and accretion than the other deltaic region, mainly due to human activities together with natural phenomena such as wave action, strong tidal currents, and rise in sea level. Therefore, The present article deals mainly with the study of dynamical processes such as erosion and accretion associated with sea level variations along the Karachi coast and surrounding Indus deltaic coastline. The probable beach erosion in a decade along the sandy beaches of Karachi has been estimated. The estimates show that 1.1 mm/year rise in sea level causes a horizontal beach loss of 110 mm per year. Therefore, coast eroded with rise in sea level at Karachi and surrounding sandy beaches would be 1.1 m during a period of next 10 years. The northwestern part of Indus delta, especially the Gizri and Phitti creeks and surrounding islands, are most unstable. Historical satellite images are used to analyze the complex pattern of sediment movements, the change in shape of coastline, and associated erosion and accretion patterns in Bundal and Buddo Islands. The significant changes in land erosion and accretion areas at Bundal and Buddo Islands are evident and appear prominently in the images. A very high rate of accretion of sediments in the northwestern part of Buddo Island has been noticed. In the southwest monsoon season the wave breaking direction in both these islands is such that the movement of littoral drift is towards west. Erosion is also taking place in the northeastern and southern part of Bundal Island. The erosion in the south is probably due to strong wave activities and in the northeast is due to strong tidal currents and seawater intrusion. Accretion takes place at the northwest and western parts of Bundal Island. By using the slope of Indus delta, sea encroachment and the land area inundation with rising sea level of 1 m and 2 m have also been estimated.     

剖面形态自适应的海岸线遥感推算方法

淤泥质海岸冲淤变化大，岸滩剖面形态多样。本文首先根据多时相遥感水边线之间的潮差关系自动判断岸滩剖面形态，进而分别采用不同的函数进行剖面拟合，构建了一种剖面形态自适应的海岸线遥感推算新方法，并在江苏中部淤泥质海岸进行了实证应用。研究表明:下凹形侵蚀岸段、斜坡形平缓岸段和上凸形淤长岸段分别采用三指数衰减函数、线性函数和二阶多项式函数具有良好的剖面拟合效果，利用3条水边线数据拟合所得剖面平均坡度绝对误差分别为0.20‰、–0.17‰和0.13‰，小于剖面实测平均坡度一个数量级。利用5条水边线数据拟合进行海岸线推算时，侵蚀岸段、平缓岸段的海岸线平面位置误差分别为6.5 m和–91.96 m，与平均坡度法相比，误差减小约82.4%。进一步考虑岸滩季节性变化时，使用冬季的水边线数据推算海岸线，对侵蚀岸段和淤长岸段影响不大，但对斜坡形平缓岸段，误差减小约63.65%，因此使用冬季的水边线数据比不区分季节具有更高的海岸线推算精度。     

Modeling the effect of late Quaternary interglacial sea levels on wave-cut shore platforms

A mathematical wave erosional model was used to study the effect of high sea levels during the penultimate (oxygen isotopic stage 7) and last interglacials (substage 5e), and in the late Holocene (stage 1), on the present morphology of wave-cut shore platforms. Sea level was considered to have been either the same as today or 2.25 m lower during the penultimate interglacial, and 2.25, 4.5 or 6.75 m higher than today during the last interglacial stage. The model suggested that inherited, gently sloping shore platforms in resistant rocks may be essentially protected today from erosion by high storm waves. The lowest platform gradients were in runs with mesotidal (3 m) range, and usually with low wave periods, low surf attenuation rates and weak rocks. Modern platform gradients increased with the difference in elevation between sea levels during successive interglacial stages. Shore platforms were widest in runs in which sea level was the same as today in the penultimate interglacial and 4.5 m higher than today during the last interglacial. Constant sea level, and high, last interglacial sea levels with considerable overlapping between the zones of high duration values between the mean neap high and low tidal levels in stages 7, 5e and 1, were conducive to the development of wide shore platforms, whereas sea levels lower than today's in stage 7 tended to produce narrower platforms. In general, higher sea levels during the last interglacial tended to produce higher cliff–platform junctions than constant sea level, unless the sea was lower than today during the penultimate interglacial stage. There was a lack of supratidal ledges in macrotidal (9 m) model runs with high initial gradients; this suggests that gently sloping, inherited shore platforms are essential for the subsequent development of supratidal, nonstructural ledges in high tidal environments during periods of higher sea level. Intertidal ledges developed in the upper portion of the modern intertidal zone, under a variety of tidal and sea level conditions. These ledges can develop independently of lithological or structural influences, and without any change in sea level. A single high sea level may also simultaneously produce two ledges at different supratidal elevations in mesotidal environments.     

东海岛东北部砂质岸滩年度冲淤变化及沉积物运移分析

东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。     

近50年来杭州湾七姊八妹列岛海域海床演变分析

七姊八妹列岛海域位于杭州湾南部的灰鳖洋内,除了岛礁周围局部存有深沟外,其余地区海床平缓.为了探究该海域海床演变情况,在了解杭州湾来水来沙特征基础上,分析了七姊八妹列岛海域的水动力、悬沙和底质分布特征.不同时期海图的对比分析表明,该海域近岸水深较小,人类活动频繁,围涂筑堤工程较多,一直处于淤积状态,属淤涨型岸滩,而离岸较远的海域,泥沙难于落淤而随潮反复搬运,基本处于冲淤平衡状态.1962～2008年这46 a间,七姊八妹列岛海域总体呈现与岸线走向一致的淤积、冲刷间隔分布的冲淤带.平均淤积厚度约2.2 m,淤积幅度约5.0 cm/a,大多数地方平均冲刷厚度约2.4 m,冲刷幅度约5.0 cm/a.这些特点与当地的水动力条件和泥沙沉积特性相一致.     

厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应

根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。