烟台套子湾海滩泥沙运动方向研究

采用筛析法分析了套子湾中滩面上66个表层样品的粒度。结果表明:套子湾海滩沉积物为中、细砂,为典型海滩砂。标准偏差较小,分选较好至好;频率曲线呈近正态分布,稍呈负偏;峰度中等至较窄。平均粒径和标准偏差由夹河口向东西两侧海滩变小,由于突堤的阻挡,海滩沿岸沉积物在突堤东侧产生堆积,西侧侵蚀。粒度特征和海滩地貌变化显示:套子湾海滩沉积物是由夹河口向东西两侧发生沿岸运移。为烟台开发区海水浴场的海滩养护以及芝罘岛连岛沙坝海岸的合理利用提供科学依据。     

杭州湾南岸互花米草潮滩底质粒度及其分布特征

以杭州湾南岸为例，探讨互花米草（Spartina alterniflora）潮滩底质的粒度及其分布特征。结果表明杭州湾南岸互花米草潮滩底质由黏土质粉砂、粉砂、粉砂质砂和砂质粉砂组成；从杭州湾口向湾内，互花米草潮滩底质中值粒径逐渐变粗，分选性变好；从低潮滩向高潮滩，互花米草潮滩底质的中值粒径逐渐变小，分选性变差。互花米草盐沼的形成使得潮滩底质粒度及其分布特征产生明显改变。     

海南博鳌海域的沉积物输运趋势与沉积速率

2001年与2009年分别在博鳌海域进行表层沉积物和柱状沉积物取样,通过粒度分析和计算获取沉积物粒度参数,借助放射性同位素测年估算沉积速率.结果表明,与2001年相比,目前万泉河口、沙美内海有细化趋势(由粗砂变为细砂),玉带滩北部沉积物变粗,而玉带滩南部变化不大.此外,目前沙美内海北部沉积物输运趋势和2001年正好相反,南部则基本一致.万泉河口北侧沙嘴由淤积变为侵蚀,与实地调查一致.玉带滩北部沉积物沿岸向南、向外海输运,原处于侵蚀状态的南部岸段现已处于稳定阶段,这与2001年和2009年两个时段的岸线对比结果吻合.210Pb测年结果发现,潟湖内的沉积速率约为2mm·a-1,和2001年的测年结果基本一致.     

海南岛博鳌港沉积物的沿岸输送

分析了博港沿岸沉积牧粒度参数的沿岸变化，并应用沉积物粒径趋势分析模型（GSTA模型）对沉积物运动趋势进行了分析。GSTA模型结果表明，博鳌港沿岸的泥沙在横向上表现为：万泉河口以北岸段为由海向岸运动，近期处于淤积状态；万泉河口以南岸段即玉带滩大致以NNE走向到NE走向的转折点为界，北部主要是由岸向海运动，是侵蚀岸段，而南部则主要为由海向岸运动，有少量的淤积，博鳌港沿岸泥沙输送在纵向上表现为：万泉河口以北由南向北运动，万泉河口以南，北部是由北向南运动，南部是由南向北运动，其次还运用了经验公式对GSTA结果进行了验证，得到了通过万泉河口南部（玉带滩）3个断面的沿岸漂沙量，其沿岸漂沙方向主要为南北向，以上两种分析方法得出的结果和当地的许多地貌证据基本符合，而GSTA模型在玉带滩北部泥沙纵向输运方向与经验公式计算结果所表现出的一些差异，主要是由于研究时间尺度和所用的资料特征的差异性造成的。     

崇明岛现代潮滩地貌和生态环境问题分析

崇明岛西沙湿地、南分场、团结沙和东滩湿地的沉积物粒度分布,具有高潮滩向低潮滩平均粒径逐渐变小、标准偏差变大(分选性变好)的共同变化特征,基本上反映了潮滩水动力条件的变化规律.崇明西沙湿地、南分场和团结沙潮滩坡度大、滩面窄,沉积物粒径比崇明东滩湿地小,中潮滩侵蚀严重,具有"江岸型"剖面的特点;东滩湿地沉积物粒径大,滩面宽、坡度小,具有"潮滩型"剖面的特点.西沙湿地动植物组成单一,生物多样性程度降低,主要是受自然与人类活动的双重影响,该处面临的问题是如何进行生态恢复.东滩湿地需要考虑合理的围垦,过度围垦不但直接破坏了底栖动物的生存,而且威胁到迁徙鸟类的食物来源和栖息地.     

海州湾南部沉积物粒度分布特征

利用马尔文激光粒度仪研究了海州湾南部沉积物平均粒径、分选系数、偏态、峰态以及频率曲线在平面上的分布特征，其结果可为进一步研究海州湾沉积物形成时的沉积环境、各种污染物的沉积以及对海洋底栖生物的影响等提供科学依据。     

不同沉积物养护海滩对台风响应的差异性研究

本文通过对厦门天泉湾人工卵石滩和会展人工沙滩在1614“莫兰蒂”超强台风影响前后的典型剖面监测，结合水文动力要素的观测和数值模拟，计算了台风影响过程的波浪场、总水位，分析了剖面形态和台风过程的剖面平均变化量。结果表明，强潮海岸人工卵石滩与人工沙滩对台风响应的特征明显不同，人工卵石滩横向上大部分卵石向岸输移堆积，滩面侵蚀，滩肩堆积形成更高的风暴滩肩，坡度明显变陡。而人工沙滩则表现为明显的沉积物离岸输运，上部滩面侵蚀，下部滩面淤积，滩面坡度明显变缓，受台风登陆后的强烈向岸风作用，滩肩顶有所夷平，滩肩高度变化很小。海滩滩肩在台风过程中是否侵蚀与台风登陆和影响过程的总水位(天文潮、风暴增水、波浪爬高)密切相关，两个人工海滩的风暴响应模式均为冲蚀；台风影响过程中，波浪能量相对强、滩面坡度相对陡的人工卵石滩比人工沙滩的剖面平均变化量小，对于台风的响应程度小，在强侵蚀高能海岸采用砾石等粗粒径沉积物进行海滩养护是减缓砂质海滩侵蚀的一种有效手段。     

青岛旅游海滩沉积物粒度的季节性变化特征和输运

通过对2010年4和10月青岛市区主要旅游海滩(一浴、二浴、三浴和石老人浴场海滩)的157个表层沉积物样品进行粒度试验,分析了表层沉积物粒度的变化特征。研究结果表明:研究区4个海滩沉积物粒度的季节变化较为显著,从4～10月,沉积物平均粒径变细,分选性变好。4月样品65%为细砂,以负偏、窄峰态为主,平均粒径为344μm(1.54Φ),分选性较差(σi=1.04);10月样品95%为细砂,以负偏、窄峰态为主,平均粒径为233μm(2.1Φ),分选性中等(σi=0.81)。滩肩和滩面沉积物粒度特征的季节变化都较为明显。波浪特征是控制海滩沉积物变化的主要原因,另外海滩所处的地理位置等使不同海滩沉积物粒度特征的变化程度不同。由海滩沉积物的粒度分布化可以推断其输移特征,二浴和三浴海滩基本是单向输运,而一浴和石老人海滩存在沉积物双向输运的特征。     

0418号台风过境后近岸沉积物粒度特征参数的变化分析

0418号台风"艾利"过境后,对福建近岸沙质海滩表层沉积物粒度特征参数变化进行分析,结果表明:海滩沉积物受到扰动,沉积物以粗化为主,分选性减弱,负偏态程度增强,峰态多表现为窄峰态,双峰分布。沉积物平均粒径Ф值增大(沉积物变细)的区带,海滩主要表现为淤积状态;沉积物平均粒径Ф值减小(沉积物变粗)的区带,海滩主要表现为冲蚀状态。岬湾岸型海滩沉积物粒度特征参数变化最强烈,沙坝—泻湖岸型次之,夷直岸型最弱。     

山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征

为探讨山东半岛砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,利用波浪和潮汐资料计算了山东半岛浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数(Ω)),并进行了地貌类型划分;结合2012~2015年对山东半岛不同地理岸段砂质海岸地形地貌、表层沉积物进行的7次监测,对海滩监测剖面地形高程和表层沉积物粒度监测数据进行了研究,结果表明:山东半岛北部烟台多处海滩为消散型,局部过渡性;威海东侧和山东半岛南部海滩属于过渡型或反射型;不同类型沙滩季节变化差别明显,消散型海滩夏季容易形成沿岸沙坝,冬季海滩沙坝明显受到侵蚀;而过渡型或反射型海滩变化趋势相反,冬季靠近高潮线的部位淤积,形成滩肩,夏季受到侵蚀消失。山东半岛北部海滩粒径较粗,并呈现逐年变粗的趋势,而山东半岛南部粒径较细且逐年变细;季节变化受到波浪条件和季节差异的控制,招远、龙口、威海、日照地区较牟平、海阳、青岛等平直岸段冬季沉积物比夏季粗。山东半岛砂质海滩的地貌形态受海岸的地理位置、海洋动力条件、岸线走向及沙源供给等多种沉积环境因素的影响,人类活动的影响可在短期内对海滩造成剧烈变化,引起海岸严重侵蚀。     

山东半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸沉积、地貌的横向差异及成因分析———以海阳万米海滩岸段和威海国际海水浴场岸段为例

根据2011年在海阳万米海滩岸段与威海国际海水浴场岸段调查获得的夏、冬两季海岸实测地形剖面与沉积物粒度数据,并收集相关水文资料,对南北两海岸地貌与沉积差异性进行分析,探讨了半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸动力环境的差异。研究结果表明,南部海岸宽广平缓,发育滩脊、滩肩、沙波纹等地貌,沉积物在水下岸坡上段以中粗砂、中细砂为主,水下岸坡以下段以粉砂、黏土质粉砂为主;北部海岸地形陡,发育滩肩陡坎、水下沙坝等地貌,沉积物以砾质砂为主。导致这些差异的动力为风、波浪、潮汐及沿岸流堆积。     

深圳龙岐湾海滩资源调查与开发建议

文章基于2022年春、秋季开展的龙岐湾沙滩资源调查数据,分析较场尾沙滩、大塘角沙滩、黄泥湾沙滩和桔钓沙沙滩的剖面特征、沉积物粒径和裂流发生情况。研究结果表明：4处沙滩剖面的坡度秋缓春陡,剖面受风浪和潮汐直接作用时坡度变化大,受遮蔽时坡度变化小,整体呈冬春淤积、夏秋侵蚀;沙滩沉积物以中砂、粗砂和砾石为主,粒径变化不大;沙滩均无明显裂流发生,为低风险等级。建议开发沙滩旅游应考虑季节性的补沙方案,开展围垦养殖和海岸工程应注意削弱ESE向和SE向的波浪作用。     

Variations in grain‐size and sorting on two kaikoura beaches

Two exposed, high‐energy beaches on the Kaikoura coast of New Zealand are composed of sand and gravel derived from a greywacke terrain. Both beaches can be classified as mixed beaches although the sediment varies from dominantly gravel at the ends of the beach to dominantly sand at the centre, through transition zones in which sand and gravel are mixed. Sixty‐four surface samples were analysed for grain size; two sediment parameters, mean grain size (M_z) and sorting (σ_I), were calculated.

A striking feature of the cumulative frequency curves is that both unimodai and bimodal distributions include median sizes over the whole range of sampled material, even though bimodal samples display two strong modes in the sand and gravel grades. The general deficiency lof sediment dn the very coarse sand and granule classes (0 to — 2 _F ) noted by numerous authors in many parts of the world is apparent in the poorly‐sorted bimodal samples. However, the best‐sorted samples also occur in these two classes.

Mean grain size of samples ranges from medium sand (1.820) to medium pebbles (—4.7 _F ), and sorting ranges from very well sorted (0.250) to very poorly sorted (2.69 _F ). Mean erain size on the northern beach is significantly greater than on the southern beach, but values of sorting are comparable. The greater mean size on one beach compared with the other is thought to be a function of the grade of material supplied by local rivers; the similarity in sorting presumably reflects the similarity of the processes acting on the two beaches.

Mixed sand‐shingle beaches are relatively rare on a world scale but common in New Zealand. Sediment distributions along the Kaikoura beaches do not reveal a regular decrease in size away from the rivers which supply material to shore at present. Instead, the beaches are differentiated into a number of sediment zones composed of either sand, or mixed sand‐gravel, or gravel. On each beach a gravel zone is located furthest from the river outlets. Sorting generally improves toward the Kaikoura Peninsula. Explanations for these trends are not given. Variations in size and sorting across the two beaches do not show a well developed zonation because of the high level of wave energy which continually mixes the material across the beach.     

Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action

Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels.     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究

通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。     

砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征

天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的研究方法

珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。