An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

Grain Size Analysis and Depositional Environment Condition along the Beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari,Southern Tamilnadu Coast,India

Textural analysis is the epicenter of any sedimentological research. Granulometric analyses of unconsolidated sediments are used as an index to decipher the depositional environment. The granulometric analysis display a significant fluctuation in mean size, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis due to the variation in wave energy and the extent of turbulence affecting the beach environment during the crosshore and alongshore movement of sediments. The present study is to document the variation in grain size distribution within foreshore sediments, i.e., between the high water line and the plunge point wherein the sediments are deposited under different wave energy conditions.     

Confirmation of beach accretion by grain-size trend analysis: Camposoto beach, Cádiz, SW Spain

An application of the grain size trend analysis (GSTA) is used in an exploratory approach to characterize sediment transport on Camposoto beach (Cádiz, SW Spain). In May 2009 the mesotidal beach showed a well-developed swash bar on the upper foreshore, which was associated with fair-weather conditions prevailing just before and during the field survey. The results were tested by means of an autocorrelation statistical test (index I of Moran). Two sedimentological trends were recognized, i.e. development towards finer, better sorted and more negatively skewed sediment (FB–), and towards finer, better sorted and less negatively or more positively skewed sediment (FB+). Both vector fields were compared with results obtained from more classical approaches (sand tracers, microtopography and current measurements). This revealed that both trends can be considered as realistic, the FB+ trend being identified for the first time in a beach environment. The data demonstrate that, on the well-developed swash bar, sediment transported onshore becomes both finer and better sorted towards the coast. On the lower foreshore, which exhibits a steeper slope produced by breaking waves, the higher-energy processes winnow out finer particles and thereby produce negatively skewed grain-size distributions. The upper foreshore, which has a flatter and smoother slope, is controlled by lower-energy swash-backwash and overwash processes. As a result, the skewness of the grain-size distributions evolves towards less negative or more positive values. The skewness parameter appears to be distributed as a function of the beach slope and, thus, reflects variations in hydrodynamic energy. This has novel implications for coastal management.

青岛市灵山湾海水浴场表层沉积物粒度冬季变化特征及其原因

于2013年11月、2014年1月及3月在青岛市灵山湾海水浴场进行了3次表层沉积物采样,对粒度组分和粒度参数平面分布的变化进行了分析。结果表明,本区沉积物整体有变粗的趋势,细砂组分特别是极细砂和粉砂组分含量下降明显,分选性变好,正偏态及高峰度分布区扩大,粒度参数高值分布区被消除。粒径趋势分析表明,在涨潮流与强盛的冬季风驱动的风浪、沿岸流的综合作用下,研究区沉积物总体呈北东-南西向沿岸输运,运移趋势变化受到波浪、潮流水动力条件与地形相互作用的影响。短期的波能变化足以改变沙滩地貌,从而影响表层沉积物的分布。可为浴场维护提供理论依据。     

Textural Characteristics of Surface and Core Sediments of Ilmenite-Enriched Coasts of Southwest,India

Sediment samples from the foreshore and backshore regions between Thottappally and Kayamkulam, (Thottappally – Trikkunnapuzha = Northern; Trikkunnapuzha – Arattupuzha = Central; Arattupuzha – Kayamkulam = Southern), which are enriched with heavy minerals, were subjected to detailed textural evaluation. Through frequency curves, bivariate and CM pattern, the textual characteristics of black sand deposits have been brought out and their provenance has been discussed. Beach sands of the study area mainly comprise fine sand, moderately well- to well-sorted, with near symmetrical skewness in all three sectors. Kurtosis is platykurtic in the northern sector, whereas mesokuritic sediments in the central and southern sectors show a characteristic playtkuritc nature. In the Trikkunnapuzha – Arattupuzha and Aratupuzha – Kayamkulam sectors, sediments are mesokurtic to platykurtic, which shows that low energy conditions and high wave energy conditions must have prevailed. Sediment transportation is mainly by saltation. The bivariate textural plots indicate beach and inland involvement for these sediments. The CM pattern also indicates that the sources for the sediment deposition in the study area were beach with the influence of fluvial and high-energy waves.     

Spatial distribution of grain size and depositional process in tidal area along Waikelo Beach,Sumba

A study of characteristics and distribution of sediment along Waikelo Beach, Sumba, Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT), Indonesia has been conducted using grain size train analysis. Grain size train analysis aims to determine physical properties and textural parameters such as mean, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis. Samples were taken from several locations on the beach that represent high-tide, transition, and low-tide areas. The observation of two physical characteristics has concluded two points: (1) changing in textural pattern that shows physical differences of sediments is a result of interaction between deposition process and marine activities; (2) the abundance of coarse to medium sand demonstrates general process of sediment deposition along Waikelo Beach deposited at moderate to low energy. Linear discriminate function indicates aeolian, shallow marine, and fluvial environments. CM diagram (C?=?one percentile in micron, M?=?median in micron) describes the mechanism of sediment deposition on the beach in rolling and ground suspension. These all conditions are supported by the plotting results in the Stewart diagram that shows the influence of current either from waves or from river.     

The influence of a research pier on beach morphology and the distribution of Emerita talpoida

The spatial distribution of the common Atlantic Coast mole crab, Emerita talpoida, is strongly influenced by inshore processes and the grain size and morphology of sand beaches. E. talpoida increase in density across the foreshore toward the lower part of the beach (step), with high concentrations occurring within areas of reduced wave energy. Engineering structures extending across the foreshore, such as the Coastal Engineering Research Facility (research pier) at Duck, North Carolina, significantly alter wave action and thus modify the distribution of beach sediment and beach morphology. This, in turn, results in modifications of E. talpoida distributions. The pier's impact on the natural processes and patterns of both physical and ecological elements of the beach introduces an “uncertainty principle” that must be taken into consideration when designing experiments at research facilities.     

Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action

Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels.     

山东半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸沉积、地貌的横向差异及成因分析———以海阳万米海滩岸段和威海国际海水浴场岸段为例

根据2011年在海阳万米海滩岸段与威海国际海水浴场岸段调查获得的夏、冬两季海岸实测地形剖面与沉积物粒度数据,并收集相关水文资料,对南北两海岸地貌与沉积差异性进行分析,探讨了半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸动力环境的差异。研究结果表明,南部海岸宽广平缓,发育滩脊、滩肩、沙波纹等地貌,沉积物在水下岸坡上段以中粗砂、中细砂为主,水下岸坡以下段以粉砂、黏土质粉砂为主;北部海岸地形陡,发育滩肩陡坎、水下沙坝等地貌,沉积物以砾质砂为主。导致这些差异的动力为风、波浪、潮汐及沿岸流堆积。     

北海银滩响应台风作用的动力地貌过程

极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。     

渤海湾西岸潮间带沉积物粒度分布特征

根据2003年12月在渤海湾西岸海河口南缘至歧口间岸段采集的4个柱状沉积物样品和6个表层样品的粒度分析结果,探讨了渤海湾西岸潮间带的粒度分布特征和沉积作用。结果表明,由北向南,表层沉积物逐渐变细,分选性变差。海河口南缘至独流减河之间的表层沉积物为分选良好的细砂,至歧口附近变为粉砂质粘土。在垂直方向上,表层以下一定深度内沉积物的平均粒径都存在一均匀层,层内沉积物为分选良好的细砂,此深度以下沉积物中的粘土含量增加。说明由于60年代之后的自然变化和人类活动,入海泥沙量减少,改变了潮间带沉积物原有的输沙与海滩发育模式,导致独流减河以北的砂质沉积物出现粗化现象。     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.     

海滩表层磁性矿物空间分布特征和季节性变化——以青岛石老人海滩为例

通过对石老人海滩不同季节表层沉积物体积磁化率的原地实测和所取表层样品粒度分级,结合海滩沉积动力环境因素综合分析得知,石老人海滩不同季节表层沉积物磁化率值总体上都表现出东高西低,滩肩高滩面低的趋势。海滩沉积物颗粒夏季比冬季细,分选好。海滩磁化率和沉积物粒度在海滩上的空间分布特征及其季节性变化存在一定联系。海滩的侵蚀沉积过程主要受冬夏季不同的波浪、沿岸流和风的作用影响。通常磁化率值高的区域为颗粒较细的侵蚀区,磁化率值低的区域为颗粒较粗的沉积区。磁学方法作为一种简便快捷低成本易操作的新方法,可以代替耗时的粒度和矿物分析,来分析海滩的沉积动力作用过程,识别海滩的侵蚀和沉积区域。     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

The effects of sediment characteristics and wave height on shape-parameter for representing equilibrium beach profiles

The shape parameter helps determining the shape of equilibrium beach profile in terms of offshore distance and water depth. The shape parameter therefore, should represent the effect of all the environmental factors involved in beach profile formation, such as wave climate and sediment properties. However, all the previous studies carried out to define shape parameter only consider the effects of sediment characteristics in their definitions. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate also in the definition of shape parameter. This is achieved by integrating wave energy dissipation rate per unit volume at the surf zone. The result yields equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate that leads to theoretical definition of equilibrium beach profiles involving the effects of both the grain size and the wave climate parameters. It is found that the sediment grain size and the incoming wave height affect the value of shape parameter; whereas, the effects of wave period can be neglected. By means of energy equation, it is also possible to observe in macro scale the strength of wave energy on beach profile for different grain sizes. The findings also bring about the possibility of defining shape parameter such that any two arbitrary beach profiles owning the same sediment grain sizes can have the opportunity to have different beach profile formations. Finally, by adding the effect of wave height in the definition of shape parameter the graphical representation of the parameter, previously given by Moore (1982) is improved herein.     

山东半岛白沙滩及邻近海域沉积物分布与控制因素

对山东半岛白沙滩及邻近海域表层沉积物进行了粒度分析,结合相关的地质水文资料,探讨了海岸形态对沉积物粒度的影响.研究区底质类型以黏土质粉砂和砂质粉砂为主,由东北经古龙咀岬角向西南形成S形黏土质粉砂分布带,险岛湾地区沉积物呈带状由砂逐渐过渡到粉砂,潮汐和波浪是本区沉积物输运的主要水动力,岬角的存在影响了沉积物粒度的分布,粒度趋势分析表明沉积物整体有向岬角汇聚的输运趋势.     

莱州湾西南部表层沉积物粒度分布特征及其现代沉积环境分区

根据莱州湾西南部207个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析结果,对莱州湾西南部沉积物粒度分布特征进行了研究,在此基础上应用系统聚类分析方法并结合物源及水动力条件探讨了其现代沉积环境分区。结果表明,研究区表层沉积物类型以粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂和粉砂为主,分布范围最广的粉砂主要位于淄脉沟以北;沉积物平均粒径由近岸向莱州湾中部逐渐变细,从南向北呈现粗—细—粗的变化趋势;研究区现代沉积环境分为高能粉砂质砂粗粒沉积区、砂质粉砂过渡沉积区以及低能粉砂细粒沉积区,其水动力环境表现为波浪作用逐渐减弱,潮流作用逐渐增强,沉积物物源由近岸河流、岸滩侵蚀来沙为主变为以黄河悬浮—再悬浮物质为主。     

连云港附近岸滩表层沉积物的动态判别

本文用多元统计分析阐述了连云港附近岸滩表层沉积物的粒度特征,以及沉积物的平均粒径与波浪、潮流最大底切速之间的密切关系,从而得到沉积物运动的判据,它对预测岸滩冲淤亦具有一定的实际意义。     

烟台套子湾海滩泥沙运动方向研究

采用筛析法分析了套子湾中滩面上66个表层样品的粒度。结果表明:套子湾海滩沉积物为中、细砂,为典型海滩砂。标准偏差较小,分选较好至好;频率曲线呈近正态分布,稍呈负偏;峰度中等至较窄。平均粒径和标准偏差由夹河口向东西两侧海滩变小,由于突堤的阻挡,海滩沿岸沉积物在突堤东侧产生堆积,西侧侵蚀。粒度特征和海滩地貌变化显示:套子湾海滩沉积物是由夹河口向东西两侧发生沿岸运移。为烟台开发区海水浴场的海滩养护以及芝罘岛连岛沙坝海岸的合理利用提供科学依据。