One-dimensional theory of the wave boundary layer

Results obtained in a 2-D modeling of the statistical structure of the wave boundary layer (WBL) are used for elaboration of the general approach to 1-D modeling taking into account the spectral properties of wave drag for an arbitrary wave field. In the case of the wave field described by the JONSWAP spectrum, the momentum and energy spectral density exchange, vertical profiles of the wave-induced momentum flux and dependence of total roughness parameter and drag coefficient on peak frequency are given. The reasons that the total roughness parameter increases with decreasing fetch are explained. The role of wind waves as an active element of the ocean-atmosphere dynamic system is also discussed.     

Models of the wave boundary layer

A general approach to model the structure of the wave boundary layer, based on the nonlinear Reynolds equations in a curvilinear system of coordinates, is described. Both spectral and numerical grid models are used. The energetic interactions between wind and wave in terms of Miles' parameter are studied. For waves outrunning or running against the wind, the range of the inverse flux of energy is found. For waves running slower than the wind, quadratic growth of is established. Vertical profiles of the wave momentum flux for different fetches are given. Following P. Janssen, a one-dimensional analytical model of the wave boundary layer is suggested. The effect of waves on the drag coefficient is analyzed.     

Numerical simulation of the boundary layer above waves

A new approach to investigations of the structure of the boundary layer above waves is discussed. The approach is based on direct numerical simulation of wave motions in the boundary layer produced by a moving curved surface. Model equations are derived, which are the Reynolds equations in a curvilinear nonstationary system of co-ordinates, evolution equations for turbulent kinetic energy, and Kolmogorov's approximate similarity formulae relating the coefficient of turbulent viscosity to the dissipation of turbulent energy; the length scale is assumed to grow linearly with increasing distance from the surface. Principles of constructing the model numerical scheme are described. Results are given of modelling the structure of the boundary layer above a nonsteady surface, which, in a general case, is a superposition of progressive waves with assigned dispersion relations and amplitudes. Mechanisms of energy and momentum transfer to the surface, effects of density stratification and energy structure in the boundary layer are studied. Merits and demerits of the approach are discussed.     

Interaction of surface waves at very close wavenumbers

We show that interaction of two monochromatic waves at the water surface enters a different dynamic regime if their wavenumbers become very close. The study is conducted by means of a fully nonlinear wave model. In the course of evolution of the two waves, downshifting of the initial wave energy and growth of the first mode occur depending on wave steepness and dk/k. Behaviour of these features changes if dk/k?<?0.0025: both downshifting and growth rate become independent of dk/k, accompanied by rapid transfer of wave energy to large scales.     

Numerical modeling of 3D fully nonlinear potential periodic waves

A simple and exact numerical scheme for long-term simulations of 3D potential fully nonlinear periodic gravity waves is suggested. The scheme is based on the surface-following nonorthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. Velocity potential is represented as a sum of analytical and nonlinear components. The Poisson equation for the nonlinear component of velocity potential is solved iteratively. Fourier transform method, the second-order accuracy approximation of vertical derivatives on a stretched vertical grid and the fourth-order Runge–Kutta time stepping are used. The scheme is validated by simulation of steep Stokes waves. A one-processor version of the model for PC allows us to simulate evolution of a wave field with thousands degrees of freedom for hundreds of wave periods. The scheme is designed for investigation of nonlinear 2D surface waves, generation of extreme waves, and direct calculations of nonlinear interactions.     

Correction to: Accelerated reproduction of 2-D periodic waves

Ocean Dynamics - A Correction to this paper has been published: https://doi.org/ https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-021-01450-3     

Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics

An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values     

Two-Dimensional Modeling of Three-Dimensional Waves

Oceanology - An approximate method of direct modeling of three-dimensional surface waves based on the complete equations of the potential motion of a liquid with a free surface in a curved...