海洋测绘文摘

HC9901浅谈制图学的研究方向/袁银翔(海军大连舰艇学院海洋测绘系)//海军大连舰艇学院学报一1卯8,(l).30一31 简要回顾制图学历史。从制图学的发展和实际应用出发提出制图学家将来涉足的领域和科研课题。参2峡一1998,(4).391一395 本文通过波浪计算和理论海滩剖面方程的拟合,以B~模式为基础,根据EvextS剖面积分方法,测算了厦门大学海滨浴场、鼓浪屿港仔后海滨浴场沙滩未来looa海平面上升引起的海滩后退量值。HC更均2中国沿岸海平面变化的分析/田光攀(海军大连舰艇学院海洋测绘系)//海军大连舰艇学院学报一1卯8,(2).26一27,46、 采用中国…     

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响研究

我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩有显著影响.本研究以泉州青山湾护岸、泉州崇武中心渔港、海口南海明珠人工岛等建设前后海滩变化为例,开展对海滩岸线形态及部分典型剖面形态的对比分析.结果表明,临海硬式护岸岸前海滩发生明显下蚀,护岸下游海滩岸线侵蚀后退,发育侵蚀热点,剖面伴有下蚀;渔港工程拦沙堤附近岸线局部淤涨,下游海滩岸线大范围侵蚀后退,出现侵蚀热点,侵蚀热点处剖面明显下蚀;人工岛后波影区内海滩淤积,形成沙岬或连岛沙坝突出体,突出体两侧岸线均发生不同程度侵蚀后退.通过分析典型工程案例,探讨了3类海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响方式、影响尺度和原因,对比分析不同类型海岸工程对相邻海滩的负面影响,可为海岸工程建设管理和海滩保护提供参考.     

岬湾海滩沉积动力地貌研究

岬湾海滩是砂质海岸稳定性及其演变的重要内容.介绍了岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型、海滩平衡剖面模式、海滩剖面主要类型的判别以及海岸泥沙运动,其中着重评述了现今岬间海湾平面形态平衡模型和海滩平衡剖面模式.通过它们的优缺点分析,认为人工神经网络模型是未来新型平面形态模型改进的方向;海滩平衡剖面模式分段使用,亦或2种或多种模式配合...     

海滩平衡剖面形态研究进展

海滩剖面形态是近岸过程与海岸工程环境的一个重要研究内容，对其研究具有重要的理论意义和应用价值。在Brunn-Dean剖面模式的基础上，研究人员提出了许多新的海滩剖面形态模式。作者对近年来提出的各种平衡剖面模式进行了总结，认为加强泥沙动力学研究是解决模式与实际剖面形态偏离的关键。最后作者指出了研究我国岬湾间海滩剖面具有的重要意义。     

黄河三角洲飞雁滩动力特征与地形剖面塑造

飞雁滩是1964年1月至1976年5月黄河尾闾由刁口流路入海形成的黄河亚三角洲。自1976年黄河改走清水沟入海后,飞雁滩岸滩发生强烈侵蚀后退。以20世纪70年代开始的地形固定断面观测资料、2004年4月现场水文泥沙及沉积物取样资料为基础,地形剖面后退距离作为统计参数,并根据实测资料计算了潮流和波浪底摩阻流速的横向分布,分布和沉积物结构方面解释了飞雁滩典型剖面的变化特征。30a来飞雁滩岸滩地形剖面经历了"快速后退侵蚀-慢速调整-波动触发"的变化过程,这也正是其三角洲前缘侵蚀逐渐消失过程。沉积物抗冲性强弱是剖面蚀退速度变化的主要原因,水动力条件的变化改变了不同阶段的地形剖面最大蚀退量水深范围与闭合深度。风暴潮仍是今后海滩地形剖面演变的触发动力。     

波控弧形海湾近岸平衡剖面特征分析

应用Ｄｅａｎ，Ｂｏｄｇｅ和Ｌｅｅ近岸平衡剖面模式，对粤东靖海波控弧形海湾两种近岸剖面作了分析对比。结果显示推拟合的Ｄｅａｎ模式与实际剖面偏差明显，由Ｂｏｄｇｅ模式计算的凹度，北剖面小于南剖面，此与沿岩滩面坡度变化趋势一致，由Ｌｅｅ模式拟合的结果导出的波周期与实测值相近。     

山东荣成靖海卫海滩侵蚀研究与防护建议

靖海卫海滩近年来侵蚀作用明显,岸线后退加剧,对沿岸居民生活和安全造成危害。通过多次实地剖面监测、探槽分析、粒度分析等方法,辅以GENESIS模型模拟和多年遥感图像比对验证,分析该区域不同时期、不同速率侵蚀的特殊因素,得出研究区长期以来因人类活动和自然因素而遭受侵蚀,2005年以来因人类活动加剧导致侵蚀速率成倍增长,海岸严重蚀退,海滩逐步消亡。通过海滩演化过程的数值模拟和侵蚀速率分析,预测在人类活动影响下海滩的演变趋势,并结合分析结果提出平衡剖面控制下的海滩自然防护体系与"四大禁区"概念,提出了砂质海岸防护和提高近岸工程布设合理性的建议。     

黄河三角洲飞雁滩动力特征与地形剖面塑造

飞雁滩是1964年1月至1976年5月黄河尾闾由刁口流路入海形成的黄河亚三角洲。自1976年黄河改走清水沟入海后，飞雁滩岸滩发生强烈侵蚀后退。以20世纪70年代开始的地形固定断面观测资料、2004年4月现场水文泥沙及沉积物取样资料为基础，地形剖面后退距离作为统计参数，并根据实测资料计算了潮流和波浪底摩阻流速的横向分布，从动力分布和沉积物结构方面解释了飞雁滩典型剖面的变化特征。30a来飞雁滩岸滩地形剖面经历了“快速后退侵蚀——慢速调整——波动触发”的变化过程，这也正是其三角洲前缘侵蚀逐渐消失过程。沉积物抗冲性强弱是剖面蚀退速度变化的主要原因，水动力条件的变化改变了不同阶段的地形剖面最大蚀退量水深范围与闭合深度。风暴潮仍是今后海滩地形剖面演变的触发动力。     

Dean模型在山东半岛西北岸滩动力地貌研究的应用

根据山东半岛西北部25条实测岸滩剖面及相关表层沉积物、波浪、潮流资料,通过计算浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数Ω,确定研究区主控动力因素并对海滩动力地貌类型进行划分,在此基础上应用Dean平衡剖面模型对实测剖面进行拟合,探讨了该模型的适用性及其参数物理意义等问题。山东半岛西北部整体为浪控海岸,刁龙嘴-三山岛岸段、海北嘴-石虎嘴岸段和三山岛-海北嘴岸段均属过渡型海滩,屺坶岛-栾家口岸段属消散型海滩。研究区实测剖面与Dean模型的拟合结果整体较好,部分剖面(剖面1、剖面2、剖面3、剖面5、剖面8)由于发育离岸沙坝,使其形态与Dean模型预测的平滑上凹的形态特点存在一定差别。屺坶岛-栾家口岸段(剖面19~剖面24)受外海侧桑岛及沿岸龙口人工岛群影响,与Dean模型预测结果存在较大差别,Dean模型对发育槽-坝体系的海滩的拟合仍具有局限性。Dean模型中m和A分别反映了海滩剖面反射性和泥沙沉速,与海滩动力地貌类型判别公式计算结果吻合较好。     

波控弧形海湾近岸平衡剖面特征分析

应用Ｄｅａｎ，Ｂｏｄｇｅ和Ｌｅｅ近岸平衡剖面模式，对粤东靖海波控弧形海湾两条近岸剖面作了分析对比。结果显示拟合的Ｄｅａｎ模式与实际剖面偏差明显，由Ｂｏｄｇｅ模式计算的四度，北剖面小于南剖面，此与沿岸滩面坡度变化趋势一致，由ｔｅｅ模式拟合的结果导出的波周期与实测值相近。文中讨论了海岸反射性与剖面凹度、剖面变化截止水深与泥沙运动的关系。     

Longshore sediment transport on non-planar beaches

For a concave-up $\text{2}\text{3}$ power Bruun beach profile, the following two energetics-based sediment transport models are developed: (1) a Bagnold-type model and (2) a combined wave-current stress model. The stress model is calibrated with the Bagnold model using observed transport rates on planar beaches. The sediment transport profiles for the two models are in agreement within the surf zone for the planar beach case; but the stress model is also applied seaward of the breaker line where the Bagnold model is not. A mean swash transport of sand is predicted by the Bagnold model for a $\text{1}\text{2}$ power least-squares approximation to total depth including setup/setdown on a Bruun beach profile. The total longshore transport of sand is determined for each transport model as a function of the turbulent lateral mixing strength. The total sand transport is found to be less on a concave-up beach profile than for the corresponding planar beach case.     

2010—2020及影响因素分析年青岛海滩剖面稳定性

海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海滩研究的重要内容。在全球砂质海滩普遍遭受侵蚀的背景下,分析部分稳定海滩的特征和原因可以为海滩维护和科学管理提供重要参考。本文基于近 11 年 （2010—2020 年） 青岛第一、第三和石老人海水浴场共 8 条典型剖面的实地监测高程数据,对海滩滩肩宽度和单宽体积进行计算对比,研究表明,除石老人海水浴场一个剖面变化较大外,其他剖面的滩肩宽度只变化了 0~14 m,是 11 年前的 0%~23.3%;单宽体积变化了 8.5~46.5 m3,是 11 年前的1.0%~9.4%;海滩剖面垂向扰动范围一般在 30~60 cm 范围内。海滩存在局部小尺度淤积或侵蚀,剖面形态总体较为稳定。海平面变化、台风和风暴潮等自然因素是海岸轻微侵蚀或调整的重要影响因素,但对海滩的优化管理 （包括定期监测海滩、适度展开养护、制定完善的管理政策和加强执行力度等人为因素） 可以应对这些海滩变化,并且已成为近年来该研究海滩保持稳定的关键因素。     

Mapping beach morphodynamics remotely: A novel application tested on South African sandy shores

Sandy beaches have been identified as threatened ecosystems but despite the need to conserve them, they have been generally overlooked. Systematic conservation planning (SCP) has emerged as an efficient method of selecting areas for conservation priority. However, SCP analyses require digital shapefiles of habitat and species diversity. Mapping these attributes for beaches from field data can take years and requires exhaustive resources. This study thus sought to derive a methodology to classify and map beach morphodynamic types from satellite imagery. Since beach morphodynamics is a strong predictor of macrofauna diversity, they could be considered a good surrogate for mapping beach biodiversity. A dataset was generated for 45 microtidal beaches (of known morphodynamic type) by measuring or coding for several physical characteristics from imagery acquired from Google Earth. Conditional inference trees revealed beach width to be the only factor that significantly predicted beach morphodynamic type, giving four categories: dissipative, dissipative-intermediate, intermediate and reflective. The derived model was tested by using it to predict the morphodynamic type of 28 other beaches of known classification. Model performance was good (75% prediction accuracy) but misclassifications occurred at the three breaks between the four categories. For beaches around these breaks, consideration of surf zone characteristics in addition to beach width ameliorated the misclassifications. The final methodology yielded a 93% prediction accuracy of beach morphodynamic type. Overlaying other considerations on this classification scheme could provide additional value to the layer, such that it also describes species’ spatial patterns. These could include: biogeographic regions, estuarine versus sandy beaches and short versus long beaches. The classification scheme was applied to the South African shoreline as a case study. The distribution of the beach morphodynamic types was partly influenced by geography. Most of the long, dissipative beaches are found along the west coast of the country, the south coast beaches are mostly dissipative-intermediate, and the east coast beaches range from short, estuarine pocket and embayed beaches in the former Transkei (south east), to longer intermediate and reflective beaches in KwaZulu-Natal (in the north east). Once combined with the three biogeographic regions, and distinguishing between estuarine and sandy shores, the South African coast comprised 24 different beach types. Representing shorelines in this form opens up potential for numerous spatial analyses that can not only further our understanding of sandy beach ecology at large spatial scales but also aid in deriving conservation strategies for this threatened ecosystem.     

From beaches to beach environments: linking the ecology,human-use and management of beaches in Australia

Beaches are very important to Australians but are presently threatened by several forms of environmental degradation. Beach management has traditionally concentrated on geomorphic hazards and the recreational human-use of beaches, but has largely ignored the ecological and broader environmental values of beaches. In this paper beaches are conceived as multidimensional environmental systems — `beach environments’ — that are nested within larger coastal systems and comprised of interacting natural, socio-cultural and management systems. These three component systems of beach environments have usually been considered separately. It is argued that a focus on both the component systems of beach environments and interactions among these systems is necessary for improvements in the management, conservation and overall environmental quality of beaches. Interactions among natural, socio-cultural and management systems are specified in a simple model of beach environments. A brief review of our knowledge on these interactions indicates that fundamental information is lacking in Australia and the ramifications are potentially severe. The concept of beach environments provides an appropriate context for the collection of relevant information, the collaboration necessary between researchers and managers and a new setting for beach environmental management. Several opportunities are outlined for beach management.     

布容法则及其在中国海岸上的应用

布容（Ｂｒｕｕｎ）法则是预测海平面上升引起海岸侵蚀最早的方法也是最简单的方法。根据中国砂质和淤泥质海岸的情况,布容法则可定性地解释海平面上升与海岸侵蚀的关系,在满足它要求条件的海岸地段和发育时期,用它预测海岸侵蚀或许是可能的。但是,若不严格审查海岸环境和条件,把它作为海平面上升情况预测海岸侵蚀的普遍模式,有待更多的研究加以证明。     

Variations in grain‐size and sorting on two kaikoura beaches

Two exposed, high‐energy beaches on the Kaikoura coast of New Zealand are composed of sand and gravel derived from a greywacke terrain. Both beaches can be classified as mixed beaches although the sediment varies from dominantly gravel at the ends of the beach to dominantly sand at the centre, through transition zones in which sand and gravel are mixed. Sixty‐four surface samples were analysed for grain size; two sediment parameters, mean grain size (M_z) and sorting (σ_I), were calculated.

A striking feature of the cumulative frequency curves is that both unimodai and bimodal distributions include median sizes over the whole range of sampled material, even though bimodal samples display two strong modes in the sand and gravel grades. The general deficiency lof sediment dn the very coarse sand and granule classes (0 to — 2 _F ) noted by numerous authors in many parts of the world is apparent in the poorly‐sorted bimodal samples. However, the best‐sorted samples also occur in these two classes.

Mean grain size of samples ranges from medium sand (1.820) to medium pebbles (—4.7 _F ), and sorting ranges from very well sorted (0.250) to very poorly sorted (2.69 _F ). Mean erain size on the northern beach is significantly greater than on the southern beach, but values of sorting are comparable. The greater mean size on one beach compared with the other is thought to be a function of the grade of material supplied by local rivers; the similarity in sorting presumably reflects the similarity of the processes acting on the two beaches.

Mixed sand‐shingle beaches are relatively rare on a world scale but common in New Zealand. Sediment distributions along the Kaikoura beaches do not reveal a regular decrease in size away from the rivers which supply material to shore at present. Instead, the beaches are differentiated into a number of sediment zones composed of either sand, or mixed sand‐gravel, or gravel. On each beach a gravel zone is located furthest from the river outlets. Sorting generally improves toward the Kaikoura Peninsula. Explanations for these trends are not given. Variations in size and sorting across the two beaches do not show a well developed zonation because of the high level of wave energy which continually mixes the material across the beach.     

Numerical modelling of erosion and accretion of plane sloping beaches at different scales

The paper focuses on the numerical simulation of erosion of plane sloping beaches by irregular wave attack in three wave flumes of different scales. One of the prime objectives of the tests was to provide a consistent data set for the improvement of numerical beach profile models. A practical application of this research with wave attack on plane sloping beaches is the erosion of the plane beaches after nourishment. Three models (CROSMOR, UNIBEST-TC and DELFT3D) have been used to simulate the flume experimental results focusing on the wave height distribution and the morphological development (erosion and deposition) along the beach profiles. Overall, the model predictions for wave heights show consistent results. Generally, the computed wave heights (H_rms and H_1/3) are within 10% to 15% of the measured values for all tests (under-prediction of the largest wave heights close to the shore). The three models can simulate the beach erosion of the wave flume tests (erosive tests) reasonably well using default values of the sand transport parameters. The model performance for the accretive tests is less good than that for the erosive tests. A practical field application of this research is the erosion of nourished beaches, as these beaches generally have rather plane beach slopes immediately after nourishment. Various graphs are given to estimate the beach erosion of nourished beaches.     

威海典型海滩沉积地貌及质量评价

选择威海双岛湾附近海滩、国际海水浴场海滩、金海滩、青叽岛以西海滩、青叽岛以东海滩、天鹅湖海滩、桑沟湾海滩、楮岛海滩、南海新区海滩和乳山银滩十处代表性岸滩进行了海滩地貌和底质调查,结合沙滩表层样品分析测试数据,对研究区海滩地貌、沉积物粒度分布特征及海滩质量进行了综合评价。结果表明:威海海滩沉积物主要包括砾砂、粗砂、中砂、细砂四种类型,其中中砂分布最广,约占所有点位的35.6%,细砂、粗砂、砾砂分别占34.4%,26.7%和3.3%。岸滩坡度一般较缓,宽度中等以上,岸滩质量整体较好,部分岸滩受沉积物粒度影响,质量稍差。     

Morphodynamic classification of sandy beaches in low energetic marine environment

Morphodynamic classification of beaches has achieved widespread acceptance in both geological and geomorphological literature. In this sense, the present work classifies twelve Mediterranean low energetic beaches according to the dimensionless fall parameter (Ω) parameter in the Island of Mallorca. Propagation of 44 yr of wave data as well as a detailed sediment study allows to provide probabilities for morphodynamical beach state on an annual and seasonal basis. Consequently, beaches in Mallorca fall between three major categories which are (a) truly reflective, (b) reflective skewed to intermediate and (c) intermediate beaches. The Mallorcan beach position in the morphodynamical scheme is close related to the physiographical and geological framework. Comparison of observed values with those obtained in the analysis leads that for gross beach classification there is agreement between predicted and real state. However on a seasonal classification, mainly during summer, there is no agreement between the predicted state and the real one. As the model does not incorporate the role of summer sea breezes, beach reflective states are highlighted. Real beach configurations correspond to more energetic wave dynamic conditions and to intermediate state scenarios.     

华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类

海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。