Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches

Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the still-water-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the $\text{2}\text{3}$ power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this $\text{2}\text{3}$ power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker line in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the $\text{1}\text{2}$ power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases. For a given concave-up beach profile, the influence of the lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases.     

Longshore current and sediment transport on composite beach profiles

Natural beaches tend to exhibit an equilibrium profile that is planar nearshore and nonplanar, concave-up offshore. The longshore current on this type of beach profile depends on the horizontal distance to the location of the intersection between the planar and nonplanar profiles. As the width of the planar beach face decreases, the location of the maximum longshore current moves closer to the shore. The dependency of the corresponding longshore sediment transport rate on the location of the intersection between the two profiles is demonstrated for two energetics-based sediment transport models. Again, a narrower beach face results in the maximum sediment transport being closer to the shore. Total sediment transport rates are also a function of the planar beach face width. This suggests that longshore transport rates are modulated by the tidal elevation.     

Modeling beach profile evolution at centennial to millennial scales

The proposed model allows the satisfactory reproduction of the changes in the profile geometry in each time step depending on the sediment budgets in a given morphodynamic system. The applied modification to the general Bruun rule governing the conservation of mass must account for the effect of the sediment transport, which is described in terms of the erosion and accretion rates (Er and and Ac, respectively). The scale of the erosion is a function of the total annual wave energy flux reaching the beach. The accretion is governed by the Er, on the one hand, and by the sediment budget in the morphodynamic system, on the other hand. The equilibrium profile obtained for the case of a balanced sediment budget (Er = Ac) shows good agreement with the observed profiles. A deficit or surplus in the sediment budget results in the shoreline??s retreat or advance accompanied by either a decrease or increase in the slope of the bottom profile. The model accounts for different types of shoreline responses to changes in the sea level (the Bruun rule, the development of a coastal barrier, and abrasion). Sediment budget imbalances can be a factor in the profile??s evolution due to changes in the sea level, while the combination of both factors will produce a variety of behaviors of the shoreline, as was shown by our calculations. The model was verified using historical data on the behavior of the Central Holland coast and the Abkhazian coast during the Late Holocene. It was shown that the model satisfactory reproduces the progradation of coastal barriers. An example of a relatively short-term forecast (over a 100-year period) is given.     

A calibration of the Bagnold beach equation

A simple sand trap is used to measure swash and backwash bedload transport rates on intertidal profiles. Data from sixty-eight beach experiments are used to calculate a mean value of 12.78 kg m^?4s^?2 for the calibration coefficient in the Bagnold beach equation.     

Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion

A computational procedure is developed for predicting the time-dependent, two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms due to elevated water levels and waves. The model employs the equation of sediment continuity and a dynamic equation governing the cross-shore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation levels. These equations are solved numerically by an implicit, double-sweep procedure to determine the change in position of elevation contours in the profile. Given sufficient time, the profile will evolve to a form where the depth, h, in the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline by the relationship: $\text{h = Ax}{}^{\mathrm{<mtext>2</mtext><mtext>3</mtext>}}$, which is consistent with many natural profiles and in which A depends on sediment characteristics.The model is verified qualitatively and quantitatively through application to several idealized cases and through a preliminary simulation of erosion during Hurricane Eloise. In general, the time scales for shoreline response were found to be quite long relative to natural storm systems and erosion in the early response stages was found to be sensitive to storm surge height, but much less sensitive to wave height. The model response characteristics for simulation of erosion due to time-varying storm conditions show a lag between the maximum storm surge elevation and maximum erosion with the maximum erosion rate occurring at the time of the peak surge. For the simulated erosion due to Hurricane Eloise, reasonable agreement was found between the post-hurricane dune profiles and those calculated. However, the eroded volumes were in better agreement than the profile forms as the steepening of the natural dune profiles was not reproduced in the model.     

Longshore Current on an Equilibrium Beach

Natural beaches tend to be concave-up rather than planar and are reasonable to be modeled by an equilibrium beach profile. A governing equation for longshore current on an equilibrium beach is derived and its analytical solution is given in this paper. Through comparisons of the present solution and field data of longshore current for a step-type beach, the present solution is found to have fairly agreeable prediction to longshore current inside the surf zone. The effects of the shape of a concave-up beach and turbulent mixing stress on longshore current inside the surf zone are discussed in the present paper.     

Natural abundances of 15N as a source indicator for near-shore marine sedimentary and dissolved nitrogen

Because organic matter originating in the euphotic zone of the ocean may have a distinctive nitrogen isotope composition (¹⁵N/¹⁴N), as compared to organic matter originating in terrestrial soils, it may be used to evaluate the relative nitrogen contribution to marine and estuarine sediment. The nitrogen isotope ratios of 42 sediment samples of total nitrogen and 38 dissolved pore-water ammonium samples from Santa Barbara Basin sediment cores were measured. The range of δ¹⁵N values for total nitrogen was $\text{+2.89 – +9.4‰}$ with a mean of $\text{+6.8‰}$ and for pore water ammonium, $\text{+8.2 – +12.4‰}$ with a mean of 10.2‰.The results suggest that the dissolved ammonium in the pore water is produced from bacterial degradation of marine organic matter. The range of δ¹⁵N values for total nitrogen in the sediment is interpreted as resulting from an admixture of nitrogen derived from marine ($\text{+10‰}$) and terrestrial (+2‰ marines. The marine component of this mixture, composed principally of calcium carbonate with smaller amounts of opal and organic matter, contains ～ 1.0% nitrogen. The terrestrial component, which comprises over 80% of the sediment, contains ～ 0.1% organically bound nitrogen and accounts for > 25% of the total nitrogen in Santa Barbara Basin sediment.     

Sedimentation processes on the continental rise of northeastern South America

A section of the continental rise of northeastern South America northeast of the Orinoco delta contains physiographic features built by the interaction of southward-flowing North Atlantic Deep Water and turbidity currents generated in the Orinoco region during the last Pleistocene glacials. A sedimentary outer ridge of low relief (Demerara Outer Ridge) trends northeast along the rise and a field of westward-migrating sediment waves trending north-northwest is superimposed on the outer ridge. The sediment waves have a maximum amplitude and wavelength of 20 m and 4 km, respectively. Seismic profiler records indicate that the outer ridge was probably built during the Pleistocene. A major turbidity-current pathway adjacent to the outer ridge on the north supplied sediment to the southward-flowing North Atlantic Deep Water which then deposited this sediment down-stream on the outer ridge and formed the sediment waves. Piston cores from the outer ridge contain numerous silt—sand beds and appear to be contourites. The cores consist primarily of gray hemipelagic clay of a Late Wisconsin age and have high ($\text{>}\text{10}\text{cm}\text{1000}\text{yrs}$) sedimentation rates. In contrast, cores from the continental rise north of the turbidite channel are brown clays with relatively low sedimentation rates ($\text{3.0}\text{cm}\text{1000}\text{yrs}$) and do not contain silt—sand contourites.     

Processes controlling Fe,Mn and Zn in sediments of northern Chesapeake Bay

The dominant physical and chemical processes that control Fe, Mn and Zn are explored by comparing the compositions of sediments and their sources. The $\text{Mn}\text{Fe}$ and $\text{Zn}\text{Fe}$ ratios in sediment are found to be largely unaffected by local hydraulic sorting (unlike the actual concentrations of Fe, Mn and Zn) and thus are useful indicators of origin. The sediments in northern Chesapeake Bay have markedly lower $\text{Mn}\text{Fe}$ and $\text{Zn}\text{Fe}$ ratios than those found in the Susquehanna River (dissolved plus suspended) under ordinary flow, but not under high flow conditions. Since high flow conditions dominate sediment transport, seaward loss of a major fraction of the river-derived Mn and Zn need not be invoked to reconcile sediment and river compositions. Sediments in the seaward end of the northern bay have higher $\text{Mn}\text{Fe}$ and $\text{Zn}\text{Fe}$ ratios than their principal external source, the eroding shore deposits. The excess Zn appears to be derived from the atmosphere; the required depositional flux of Zn is consistent with measurements of the total atmospheric flux. The excess Mn can be explained by remobilization of roughly 5% of the river-borne Mn from sediments in the landward part of the northern bay. Because rare floods influence sediment composition markedly, comparing suspended particles in the river at ordinary stages with resuspended sediment in the estuary would lead to the false interpretation that Mn and Zn were being desorbed in the saltwater.     

岬间海滩泥沙输运趋势与剖面分形研究

根据1999年7月实测的粤东岬间海滩沉积与地形变化资料,采用沉积物输运概率模式(McLaren模型)对海滩沿岸泥沙运移趋势进行探讨。结果表明,在常波况条件下海滩沿岸泥沙向偏南方向运移,在高能条件下可能出现与常波况条件下相反运动的趋势。进一步利用分形分布模型研究了海滩剖面的分形性质,提出了岬间海滩剖面地形变化的短期分形预测模型。     

Numerical modeling of flow and scour below a pipeline in currents: Part II. Scour simulation

A vertical two-dimensional (2D) numerical model for time dependent local scour below offshore pipelines subject to unidirectional steady flow is developed. The governing equations for the flow and sediment transport are solved by using finite difference method in a general curvilinear coordinate system. The performance of two turbulence models, the standard k–ɛ model and Smagorinsky subgrid scale (SGS) model, on modeling time dependent scour processes is examined. Both suspended load and bed load are considered in the scour model. The suspended-load model is verified against two channel sediment transport cases. The change of bed level is calculated from the continuity equation of total sediment transport. A new time marching scheme and a sand slide scheme are proposed for the scour calculation. It is found that the proposed time marching scheme and sand slide model work well for both clear-water and live-bed scour situations and the standard k–ɛ turbulence closure is more preferable than the SGS model in the 2D scour model developed in this study.     

Microbial nitrogen transformations in sediments and inorganic nitrogen fluxes across the sediment/water interface on the South Island West Coast,New Zealand

In January 1982, sediment microbial N transformations and inorganic N fluxes across the sediment/water interface were studied at nine sites off the South Island West Coast, New Zealand. The sediments showed a great variety in physical, chemical and biological properties. The sediment organic matter had a molar $\text{C}\text{N}$ ratio of 5.9–10.9, and the total $\text{N}\text{P}$ ratio was 1.2–4.0. The denitrification capacity in the top 7.5 cm of sediment was 0.1–77.2 mmol N m^?2 day^?1 and generally declined with increasing sediment depth. The in situ denitrification rate was 0.02–1.84 mmol N m^?2 day^?1 and highest activities were generally found in surface sediments and at 6–7.5 cm depth. Denitrification accounted for 82–100% of total nitrate reduction. Net N mineralization was indirectly estimated at 0.6–2.4 mmol N m^?2 day^?1, and the experimental determination of this N transformation gave 0.6–3.2 mmol N m^?2 day^?1. Denitrification accounted for 3–75% of net N mineralization. The diffusive flux of ammonium and nitrate across the sediment/water interface was 0.1–0.7 and 0.1–0.6 mmol N m^?2 day^?1, respectively.     

Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.     

A new formula for the total longshore sediment transport rate

A new predictive formula for the total longshore sediment transport (LST) rate was developed from principles of sediment transport physics assuming that breaking waves mobilize the sediment, which is subsequently moved by a mean current. Six high-quality data sets on hydrodynamics and sediment transport collected during both field and laboratory conditions were employed to evaluate the predictive capability of the new formula. The main parameter of the formula (a transport coefficient), which represents the efficiency of the waves in keeping sand grains in suspension, was expressed through a Dean number based on dimensional analysis. The new formula yields predictions that lie within a factor of 0.5 to 2 of the measured values for 62% of the data points, which is higher than other commonly employed formulas for the LST rate such as the CERC equation or the formulas developed by Inman–Bagnold and Kamphuis, respectively. The new formula is well suited for practical applications in coastal areas, as well as for numerical modeling of sediment transport and shoreline change in the nearshore.     

布容法则及其在中国海岸上的应用

布容（Ｂｒｕｕｎ）法则是预测海平面上升引起海岸侵蚀最早的方法也是最简单的方法。根据中国砂质和淤泥质海岸的情况,布容法则可定性地解释海平面上升与海岸侵蚀的关系,在满足它要求条件的海岸地段和发育时期,用它预测海岸侵蚀或许是可能的。但是,若不严格审查海岸环境和条件,把它作为海平面上升情况预测海岸侵蚀的普遍模式,有待更多的研究加以证明。     

An analysis of 3.5 kHz acoustic reflections and sediment physical properties

Near-bottom normal incidence acoustic reflection data and sediment physical property data are used to study the relationships between acoustic reflections and sediment physical properties. A pinger-hydrophone experiment was performed to obtain the necessary acoustic reflection data. In addition, a standard piston core was retrieved in the acoustic survey area for physical property analysis. The piston core was sampled and 13 properties were measured at 55 locations within the top 12 m of the core. Correlation studies amongst the sediment physical properties resulted in the following strong correlations: acoustic impedance ($\text{Z}$) and porosity ($\text{N}$), (0.96); water content ($\text{WC}$) and $\text{Z}$, (0.95); bulk density ($\text{BD}$) and $\text{Z}$, (0.99).The empirical orthonormal function (EOF) method was employed for acoustic signal analysis. This method assumes no a-priori models of the sediment or causality. The EOF method reduced the acoustic data to 8 functions that contained 97.6% of the sample variance. The EOFs were subsequently analysed by using cepstrum analysis which reveals time delay information and enhances detecting zones of reflectivity. The result of the sediment physical property and cepstrum analysis indicates that zones of reflectivity are essentially zones of relatively high acoustic impedance, low porosity, and low phi (high mean grain size).     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…