On hydraulic falls of two-layer flow

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先锋孤立子生成的理论平均波阻(Ⅰ).理论

根据作者导得的AfKdV方程，理论上确定了先锋孤立子生成问题的理论平均波阻，能量劈分及能量劈分比。本文的能量劈分是确定先锋孤立子生成参数的理论基础。同时，本理论确定了现有理论中的自由未知参数问题，从而使先锋孤立子生成参数得到理论预报。     

Buried Sphere Detection Using a Synthetic Aperture Sonar

This paper presents observations of a buried sphere detected with a low-frequency (5–35-kHz) synthetic aperture sonar (SAS). These detections were made with good signal-to-noise ratios (SNRs) at both above and below the critical grazing angle. The raw data for the below-critical-grazing angle detection shows that the acoustic penetration is skewed by the 29$^{circ}$ offset of the ripple field relative to the sonar path. This observed skew is in agreement with T-matrix calculations carried out to model penetration into the bottom via ripple diffraction. Additionally, measured SNRs over different frequency bands are compared to predictions made using both first- and second-order perturbation theory for ripple diffraction. Both the data and the models indicate a peak detection region around 25 kHz for the environmental conditions present during the test. These results confirm that ripple diffraction can play a critical role in long range (subcritical angle) buried target detection.      

Numerical Simulation of Sand Shoreline Evolution Under Action of Regular Waves and Irregular Waves

Based on the singleline theory, a numerical simulation is presented to predict the shoreline evolution on sand beach. A parabolic equation of longshore sediment transport and boundary conditions are proposed. The combined effect of wave diffraction and refraction on the shoreline evolution on the downdrift side of the breakwater is taken into account and is calculated using the theory of regular waves and irregular waves. The present model is verified by the field observation data of erosion for half a year on the downdrift side of a harbor, and compared with some experimental results. The numerical results are in good agreement with the field measured and experimental data.     

Design analysis of a truss pontoon semi-submersible concept in deep water

Truss pontoon semi-submersible (TPS) is a new offshore structure concept in industry, where a truss spar is used to create the added mass by the heave plates. In the present paper, the effect of the heave plates on the vertical motion of the floating structure is demonstrated. A TPS is analyzed by utilizing the linear diffraction theory as well as the linear part of the Morison equation. The close agreement of the analysis results with the experimental results suggests that the simplified Morison equation can be used for the present analysis without sacrificing the quality of the results. However, good engineering judgment is required for estimating the values of the hydrodynamic coefficients as well as the amount of damping introduced in the structure. It is also found that the heave plates indeed introduce large added mass and considerable damping in the system motion in the vertical direction such that the resonant oscillation becomes less of a problem. This suggests that the TSP concept may have merits as a heave-controlled floating production structure in the deepwater development.     

动力定位船舶二阶低频慢漂力模型试验研究

对一艘动力定位船舶二阶低频慢漂力进行了模型试验,并将试验得到的纵向慢漂力谱、横向慢漂力谱与势流理论方法得到的理论值进行比较,结果表明,该模型试验方法与理论计算较为吻合。可为动力定位系统的设计和应用提供参考。     

两层分层流体中初始内孤立波分裂的数值研究

本文导得了1个研究内波分裂的射线型二维KdV方程。利用这一方程的一维退化方程进行了实验室尺度下孤立子型内波分裂的数值研究。数值结果表明,深水区的初始内孤立波和实测的内孤立波(内潮)在通过陆坡区时都会产生分裂,并在陆架上(浅水区)生成一内孤立子波列。这表明在实际海洋条件下,深海区内潮的分裂是陆架上海洋内孤立子波包(或波列)生成的主要机制之一。     

Dynamic pressure distribution on a cylinder due to wave diffraction

The experimental investigations on the dynamic pressure distribution around a large vertical cylinder resting on a flume bed and piercing the free surface subjected to regular waves have been carried out in a 4-m wide wave flume in a constant water depth of 2.5 m at Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras, India. The cylinder of diameter 400 mm was fixed with diaphragm type pressure transducers at eight different locations below the still water level along with one at the still water level. In addition to this, to study the effect of nonlinearity, one pressure transducer was located above the still water level. The experimental results pertaining to mostly deep water conditions are compared with MacCamy and Fuchs theory and the agreement is found to be good. In order to account for the effects of nonlinearities the above said theory has been modified the results of which are found to be in better agreement.     

Effect of a base structure on the wave forces and pressures on a vertical cylinder

The influence of a square base placed at the bottom of a vertical cylinder on the wave induced forces and pressures on the cylinder is reported in this paper. In order to carry out this study, initially, the two dynamic variables on the cylinder in the absence of the base was studied so as to make sure the quality of measurements is satisfactory. The experimental results are compared with MacCamy and Fuchs' theory and the agreement found good.     

利用有限元方法求解双曲型缓坡方程

本文提出了一种双曲型缓坡方程的有限元计算方法 ,在建立有限元积分方程时通过在造波线处加入脉动源项来实现内部造波 ,并在开边界处利用阻尼层吸波 ,减少了在边界处由于数值处理引起的误差。数值计算结果与实测值吻合良好。本方法可用于大区域波浪场的计算中     

Estimation of survival probability for a ship in beam seas using the safe basin

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the nonlinear ship roll motion equation and the main parameters that induce ship capsizing in beam seas, estimate the survival probability of a ferry in random seas and to find out a risk assessment method for the ship’s intact stability. A single degree of freedom (1-DOF) dynamic system of ship rolling in beam seas is investigated and the nonlinear differential equation is solved in the time domain by the fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm. The survival probability of a ferry in beam seas is investigated using the theory of “safe basin”. The survival probability is calculated by estimating erosion of “safe basin” during ship rolling motion by Monte Carlo simulations. From the results it can be concluded that the survival probability of a ship in beam sea condition can be predicted by combining Monte Carlo simulations and the theory of “safe basin”.     

Wave setup and setdown generated by obliquely incident waves

An analytical theory is developed for the wave setup and setdown induced by obliquely incident waves on an impermeable swell-built beach profile. The wave setup and setdown are found to decrease as wave obliquity increases. The incorporation of wave obliquity in wave setup and setdown formulation offers the physical reality in engineering applications. The general solutions presented in this paper yield the limiting case of normal wave incidence and the result is consistent with the classical theories published. The present theory is primarily applicable to the spilling and plunging breaker across the surf zone, within which wave amplitude is assumed to be linearly related to the local water depth. Experiments were conducted in a large-scale wave basin to compare with theoretical results and especially to investigate the applicability of this assumption to the case of obliquely incident waves. The dimensionless setup versus the distance offshore within the surf zone is found to depend on wave breaking angle and the shape of the beach profile; and it has a non-zero value at the original shoreline position. This implies that the original shoreline will advance landwards, and that the extent of this movement can be related to wave angle at breaking and the beach profile under consideration. The results of the present theory are in good agreement with experimental data and field measurements available.     

Numerical modelling of wave-structure interaction by a three-dimensional nonlinear boundary element method: A step towards the numerical wave tank

A three-dimensional numerical model for determination of the interaction between non-linear water waves and a structure is developed. The model is based on a boundary integral equation method for the spatial solution of a potential theory problem, combined with a time-stepping method based on the fully non-linear free surface conditions for temporal updating of moments on a structure in the fluid domain. Comparison with experimental results shows good agreement. The present model is considered to be one of the steps towards a three-dimensional numerical model in which the wave-structure interaction in a wave tank can be simulated.     

A combined method for the hydrodynamic characteristics of planing crafts

The prediction of the total resistance of planing crafts at high speeds is very important. In this paper, a combined method is investigated for determining the hydrodynamic characteristics of planing crafts in the calm water. The study consists of a potential-based boundary element method (BEM) for the induced pressure resistance, the boundary layer theory for the frictional resistance and practical method for the spray resistance. The planing surface is represented by a number of elements with constant velocity potential at each element. The unknown-induced pressure is obtained by using the free surface elevation condition and the Kutta condition at the transom stern. Hydrodynamic-induced resistance and lift are determined by the calculated dynamic pressure distributions. The boundary layer analysis method is based on calculations of the momentum integral equation applied to obtain the frictional resistance. A particular practical approach is introduced to present the region of the upwash geometry for the spray. A numerical program has been developed for the present research and applied to the hull form of the craft. Four different hull forms of Series 62 model 4666 planing craft are presented. It is shown that the present combined method is efficient and the results are in good agreement with the experimental measurements over a wide range of volumetric Froude numbers.     

Free-surface evolution and wave kinematics for nonlinear uni-directional focused wave groups

This paper concerns the propagation of transient wave groups, focused at a point in time and space to produce locally large waves having a range of steepness. The experimental study was carried out in a wave flume at Dalian University of Technology. The numerical simulations were based on a nonlinear boundary integral equation solved by a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). Rather than simulate the whole experimental tank, local surface elevation measurements were used to drive the numerical solution from a point less than two wavelengths upstream of the focus position, leading to significant savings in computational time. Excellent agreement is achieved between the water surface elevations and the water particle kinematics measured in the experiments and those predicted numerically at wave group focus, even for near-breaking waves up to a steepness of kA=0.405 for which even locally matched 2nd-order theory is inadequate. Results based on the linear and 2nd-order theory are also presented in the comparisons. When compared with the first- and 2nd-order solutions, the fully nonlinear wave–wave interactions produce a steeper wave envelope in which the central wave crest is higher and narrower, while the adjacent wave troughs are broader and less deep.     

Numerical simulations of the internal tide in a submarine canyon

Three-dimensional numerical simulations of the generation and propagation of the semidiurnal internal tide in a submarine canyon with dimensions similar to those of the Monterey Canyon are carried out using a primitive equation model. Forcing with just sea level at the offshore boundary in an initially horizontally homogeneous ocean with realistic vertical stratification, internal tides are generated at the canyon foot and rim, and along portions of the canyon floor. The results compare favorably with observations, both indicating enhancement of energy along the canyon floor propagating at an angle consistent with linear internal wave theory. Due to the earth's rotation, internal tide energy is distributed asymmetrically in the cross-canyon direction, favoring the southern side. The effect of canyon floor slope is explored, with the finding that small changes in the slope result in large changes in the amount and distribution of the internal tide energy. Canyons whose floors are subcritical with respect to the semidiurnal frequency along their entire length have very little baroclinic energy, whereas canyons that are near-critical along much of their length, such as the Monterey Canyon, develop strong internal tides that propagate shoreward. Canyons that are near-critical at their mouths but supercritical further inshore generate the most internal tidal energy overall, although little of it makes it onto the continental shelf shoreward of the canyon head. The effects of internal tides within the canyons can be seen outside the canyons as well. Water is transported from depth onto the adjacent continental shelf along the canyon rims. This tidal pumping can be responsible for alongshore internal tide propagation and tidal-period surface currents with relatively small horizontal scales of variability.     

Evolution of Interface Soliton over Topography

Several ray-type 1D and 2D KdV equations for two-layer stratified ocean with topographic effect are derived in detail in the present study.A simplified version of these equations,ray type 1D KdV equation,is used to calculate numerically the disintegration of initial interface soliton from the deep sea to the continental shelf.At the same time,a laboratory experiment is carried out in a 2D stratified flow and internal wave tank to examine the numerical results.A comparison of the numerical results with the experimental results shows that they are in good agreement.The numerical results also show that the ray-type KdV equation has high accuracy in describing the evolution of initial interface waves in shelf/slope regions.Form these results,it can be concluded that the fission process is a dominant generating mechanism of interface soliton packets on the continental shelf.     

Parameter identification of nonlinear roll motion equation for floating structures in irregular waves

In order to predict the roll motion of a floating structure in irregular waves accurately, it is crucial to estimate the unknown damping coefficients and restoring moment coefficients in the nonlinear roll motion equation. In this paper, a parameter identification method based on a combination of random decrement technique and support vector regression (SVR) is proposed to identify the coefficients in the roll motion equation of a floating structure by using the measured roll response in irregular waves. Case studies based on the simulation data and model test data respectively are designed to validate the applicability and validity of the identification method. Firstly, the roll motion of a vessel is simulated by using the known coefficients from literature, and the simulated data are used to identify the coefficients in the roll motion equation. The identified coefficients are compared with the known values to validate the applicability of the identification method. Then the roll motion is predicted by using the identified coefficients. The prediction results are compared with the simulated data, and good agreement is achieved. Secondly, the model test data of a FPSO are used to identify the coefficients in the roll motion equation. Then the random decrement signature of the roll motion is predicted by using the identified coefficients and compared with that obtained from the model test data, and satisfactory agreement is achieved. From this study, it is shown that the identification method can be effectively applied to identify the coefficients in the nonlinear roll motion equation in irregular waves.     

From the History of Boundary-Layer Studies at the Institute of Atmospheric Physics

Some results of experimental investigations carried out at the Institute of Atmospheric Physics concerning the role of turbulence in exchange processes in the atmospheric boundary layer are described. From the very beginning, thanks to the works of A.M. Obukhov, the theory of this field strongly surpassed the experiment, and to verify the predictions of the theory and move forward, it was necessary to create new instruments and techniques. As a student of Obukhov, the author personally participated in the creation and ractical application of many instruments and techniques. This historical overview presents ten important results that were obtained with the direct involvement of the author and describes the first five results in detail.     

多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的迭代解析研究

基于势流理论，对多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行解析研究。研究中采用开孔墙处的二次压力损失边界条件，可以直接考虑波高对于开孔墙处能量损失的影响。利用匹配特征函数展开法和迭代方法得到当前问题的解析解。收敛性验证表明，迭代计算和级数解均具有良好的收敛性。该解析解的计算结果与分区边界元的数值计算结果一致，并且与已有的试验结果符合良好。通过算例分析，研究开孔沉箱防波堤反射系数的主要影响因素。结果表明：与单消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤相比，多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤可以在更宽的波浪频率范围内保持低反射；增大开孔墙的开孔率，有利于降低多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数；当开孔墙的开孔率沿着入射波方向依次递减时，多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数较小。本文所建立的解析模型简单可靠，可用于工程初步设计中分析开孔沉箱防波堤的水动力性能。