港域波浪数学模型的改进与验证

通过物理模型对改进的港内波浪传播变形数学模型进行验证。该数学模型以推广的时变缓坡方程为控制方程,采用含松弛因子的ADI法求解,并对波浪反射和透射边界模拟方法进行改进。先通过物理模型试验确定斜向浪入射条件下抛石防波堤前的波浪反射系数,作为数学模型中部分反射边界模拟的依据。然后进行了一个典型港口内波浪折射、绕射和反射的模型试验,测量港内波浪分布。对比模型试验和数学模型计算的结果表明,数学模型可较好地模拟港内复杂地形和边界条件下规则波和不规则波的传播变形。     

Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble-Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission oversubmerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop two-dimensional (2D) model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over submerged breakwaters are discussed through series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented.From the test results, calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

孤立波特性的实验室模拟

孤立波是浅海水域中经常出现的一种波动现象,常用来描述海啸和风暴等引起的巨浪以及波长较长的表面波的某些特性。采用"水体瞬间坍塌"的方法产生孤立波,在二维波浪水槽内进行系列实验。实验结果表明,产生的孤立波波高与水深之比可达1.29;箱体宽度及箱内水体高度对波高影响较大;得到孤立波波高计算公式,可较好地反映孤立波波高与箱体宽度、水深和箱内水体高度之间的变化关系,并给出了公式的适用范围。     

Study on the Set-up and Set-down Induced by Breaking Waves Over A Reef

China Ocean Engineering - This paper proposes an equation to calculate breaking wave induced wave set-up and set-down along reef flat. The mathematical equation was derived based on the theory of...     

Experimental Study on Scouring and Silting Deformation of Artificial Beach Under Storm Surge-Wave Coupling

With the increasing construction of artificial beach in coastal areas, it is of practical significance to study the beach surface deformation of artificial beach profile. Previous studies only focus on a single wave dynamic factor, and it is difficult to predict the beach deformation of artificial beach profile under the storm surge-wave co-action. To solve this problem, the cross-section physical model test method was used to study the beach surface deformation of a typical artificial beach pro...     

Direct numerical simulation of interaction between wave and porous breakwater based on N-S equation

In this paper, a numerical model is established. A modified N-S equation is used as a control equation for the wave field and porous flow area. The control equations are discreted and solved by the finite difference method. The free surface is tracked by the VOF method. The pressure field and velocity field of the whole flow area are solved by the reiterative iteration method. Finally, compared with the physical model test results of wave flume, the numerical model established in the present study is validated.     

Verification of A Numerical Harbour Wave Model

A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models.The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation,and the model is solved by use of ADI method containing the relaxation factor.Firstly,the reflection coefficient of waves in front of rubble-mound breakwaters under oblique incident waves is determined through physical model tests,and it is regarded as the basis for simulating partial reflection boundaries of the numerical model.Then model tests on refraction,diffraction and reflection of waves in a harbour are performed to measure wave height distribution.Comparative results between physical and numerical model tests show that the present numerical model can satisfactorily simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves in a harbour with complex topography and boundary conditions.     

Experimental Research on Wave Transmission over Submerged Rubble Mound Breakwaters

This paper discusses some previous, and presents some new experimental results on wave transmission over submerged breakwaters. The objective of this study is to evaluate wave transmission coefficient and develop a two-dimensional （2D） model as an improvement to the existing wave transmission coefficient models. Factors which affect wave transmission over stbmerged breakwaters are discussed through a series of laboratory experiments. Basic recommendations for evaluation and design of submerged rubble-monud breakwaters are presented. From the test results, a calculation formula of wave transmission coefficient is proposed.     

Solitary wave propagation influenced by submerged breakwater

The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.