Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

江苏大丰潮滩潮流边界层特征研究

2003年7月中小潮期间使用MIDAS-400用户化数据采集系统在江苏大丰潮滩上进行了垂向多层位同步的流速和悬沙浓度观测。根据观测资料研究了潮流作用下的潮滩底部边界层过程,结果表明,观测地点的潮汐不对称现象十分明显,落潮流速、历时和输水输沙量皆明显大于涨潮;在潮周期内的多数时间里流速剖面符合对数分布,但在风力较强、水流快速增加和流速缓慢的情况下,流速剖面常偏离对数分布;悬沙颗粒垂向混合均匀,悬沙浓度剖面符合Rouse公式;落潮时的底部切应力和摩阻流速明显大于涨潮,摩阻流速与各水层流速通常有较好的线性关系;滩面糙度主要与沙纹形态和推移质运动强度有关,它与摩阻流速存在密切关系;悬沙浓度具有明显的减阻效应,受其影响,摩阻流速和底部切应力分别减小了28%~41%和40%~62%。     

9711号北上台风演变及暴雨过程的位涡诊断分析

通过对 971 1号台风登陆北上穿过山东造成山东特大暴雨过程的湿位涡的分析 ,并从湿位涡的角度研究了台风演变及山东特大暴雨的形成机制 ,揭示了冷空气在台风演变及暴雨过程中的重要作用。结果表明 :倾斜涡度发展是暴雨产生和台风加强的重要机制之一 ,暴雨产生在 θe线陡立密集区内 ;湿位涡在这次暴雨过程中对流层低层具有 MPV1 <0 ,MPV2 >0的特征 ,此次暴雨产生在负的MPV1等值线密集区中 ;对流层上部及平流层下部高位涡的下传使得低层斜压性增大 ,引起低层的对流稳定度减小 ,促使气旋性涡度发展 ,有利于位势不稳定能量的释放 ,使得暴雨增幅 ,导致台风的加强并演变为温带气旋。     

Freely floating-body simulation by a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave tank

Nonlinear interactions between large waves and freely floating bodies are investigated by a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT). The fully nonlinear 2D NWT is developed based on the potential theory, MEL/material-node time-marching approach, and boundary element method (BEM). A robust and stable 4th-order Runge–Kutta fully updated time-integration scheme is used with regriding (every time step) and smoothing (every five steps). A special φ_n-η type numerical beach on the free surface is developed to minimize wave reflection from end-wall and wave maker. The acceleration-potential formulation and direct mode-decomposition method are used for calculating the time derivative of velocity potential. The indirect mode-decomposition method is also independently developed for cross-checking. The present fully nonlinear simulations for a 2D freely floating barge are compared with the corresponding linear results, Nojiri and Murayama’s (Trans. West-Jpn. Soc. Nav. Archit. 51 (1975)) experimental results, and Tanizawa and Minami’s (Abstract for the 6th Symposium on Nonlinear and Free-surface Flow, 1998) fully nonlinear simulation results. It is shown that the fully nonlinear results converge to the corresponding linear results as incident wave heights decrease. A noticeable discrepancy between linear and fully nonlinear simulations is observed near the resonance area, where the second and third harmonic sway forces are even bigger than the first harmonic component causing highly nonlinear features in sway time series. The surprisingly large second harmonic heave forces in short waves are also successfully reproduced. The fully updated time-marching scheme is found to be much more robust than the frozen-coefficient method in fully nonlinear simulations with floating bodies. To compare the role of free-surface and body-surface nonlinearities, the body-nonlinear-only case with linearized free-surface condition was separately developed and simulated.     

近海环境地球化学调查研究历史与现状

近海环境地球化学的研究是一支新兴的发展中的边缘性分支学科，由于环境问题的日益突出，该学科发展较为迅速。通过回顾我国近海环境地球化学调查的历史和综述当今国外该学科的研究现状，概括了该学科的主要进展，并指出存在的问题和今后的发展方向。     

Relationship between Salinity and Nutrients in the Subsurface Layer in the Suruga Bay

We investigated the water structure and nutrient distribution in the Suruga Bay from April 2000 to July 2002, especially the Offshore Water, which occupies a large part of the bay. The maximum salinity in the upper 200 m varied between 34.49 and 34.71, indicating a temporal change in the influence of Kuroshio Water on the Offshore Water. Seasonal variation in nutrient concentrations was largest from surface to 50 m. On the other hand, the variance in nutrient concentrations within each season was largest in the subsurface layer of 100–300 m in spring, summer and fall. In the Offshore Water, the change of nutrients was negatively correlated with that of salinity in each season. This suggests that an increasing intrusion of saline water brings about a lower nutrient concentration in the Offshore Water. Likewise, negative correlations were observed between the change of the maximum salinity and chlorophyll a (Δ [chl.a-int])/nutrients integrated in the upper 200 m. Δ[chl.a-int] was significantly correlated with the changes of nitrate and phosphorus, but there were no significant correlations between Δ[chl.a-int] and the change of silicate. These results suggest that the concentrations of chlorophyll a and nutrients in the Offshore Water were decreased due to the increasing intrusion of Kuroshio Water. The Offshore Water is likely to be related to the regulation of primary production by nitrate.     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。     

使用水块混合层模式模拟上层海洋的季节变化

使用块体混合层模式对一个固定海洋观测站所测的上层海洋之物理特性进行了模拟，结果发现了难以重复观测到的许多物理特征。文章提出了水块混合层模式，着重模拟了扩展湾流体系（ＥＧＳＳ）中的一个水块，在它被海流从佛罗里达海峡（２４°Ｎ，８０°Ｗ）带到挪威海（６８°Ｎ，１０°Ｅ）的过程中，其物理特性（其中包括温度、盐度、混合层深度和夹卷速度）随时间的变化。模拟结果较好地再现了所观测的物理特性的演化。     

季节内SST和混合层深度变化的模式研究

用Niiler—Kraus类型的混合层积分模式,对TOGA—COARE强化观测期间由《实验3号》科学考察船观测资料得到的混合层深度和SST在季节内时间尺度的变化进行了模式研究。指出:1.混合层耗散参数与较长时间尺度过程风应力的变化存在着比较好的对应关系;2.模式可以较好的对风场和热通量场在季节内时间尺度的变化作出响应,模拟出季节内时间尺度SST的变化;3.Niiler,-Kraus模式在考虑耗散作用后,可用于海洋季节内时间尺度变化的模式研究。     

Rifting to Spreading Process along the Northern Continental Margin of the South China Sea

Understanding the development from syn-rift to spreading in the South China Sea (SCS) is important in elucidating the western Pacific's tectonic evolution because the SCS is a major tectonic constituent of the many marginal seas in the region. This paper describes research examining the transition from rifting to spreading along the northern margin of the SCS, made possible by the amalgamation of newly acquired and existing geophysical data. The northernmost SCS was surveyed as part of a joint Japan-China cooperative project (JCCP) in two phases in 1993 and 1994. The purpose of the investigation was to reveal seismic and magnetic characteristics of the transitional zone between continental crust and the abyssal basin. Compilation of marine gravity and geomagnetic data of the South China Sea clarify structural characteristics of its rifted continental and convergent margins, both past and present. Total and three component magnetic data clearly indicate the magnetic lineations of the oceanic basin and the magnetic characteristics of its varied margins. The analyses of magnetic, gravity and seismic data and other geophysical and geological information from the SCS led up to the following results: (1) N-S direction seafloor spreading started from early Eocene. There were at least four separate evolutional stages. Directions and rates of the spreading are fluctuating and unstable and spreading continued from 32 to 17 Ma. (2) The apparent difference in the present tectonism of the eastern and western parts of Continent Ocean Boundary (COB) implies that in the east of the continental breakup is governed by a strike slip faulting. (3) The seismic high velocity layer in the lower crust seems to be underplated beneath the stretched continental crust. (4) Magnetic anomaly of the continental margin area seems to be rooted in the uppermost sediment and upper part of lower crust based on the tertiary volcanism. (5) Magnetic quiet zone (MQZ) anomaly in the continental margin area coincides with COB. (6) The non-magnetic or very weakly magnetized layer is probably responsible for MQZ. One of the causes of demagnetization of the layer is due to hydrothermal alteration while high temperature mantle materials being underplated. Another explanation is that horizontal sequences of basalt each with flip-flop magnetization polarity cancel out to the resultant magnetic field on the surface. We are currently developing a synthetic database system containing datasets of seismicity, potential field data, crustal and thermal structures, and other geophysical data to facilitate the study of past, contemporary and future changes in the deep sea environment around Japan; i.e. trench, trough, subduction zones, marginal basins and island arcs. Several special characteristics are an object-oriented approach to the collection and multi-faceted studies of global data from a variety of sources.