A New Approach to High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations with Ambient Currents

A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.     

胶州湾波浪状况分析

本文根据胶州湾不同时间,不同地点的波浪观测资料,分析了胶州湾的波浪特点和灾害性天气影响时的波浪状况。     

鲇鱼湾油码头附近水域潮汐,波浪和海流特征

本文依据鲇鱼湾油码头附近水域实测潮汐、波浪和海流资料,分析了本区潮汐和潮流分别以M_2分潮和分潮流占优势。潮位和潮差均具有季节性变化。潮流和余流流速的强弱主要与地形效应有关。本区东南向强浪的生长,主要依赖于偏南季风,     

地形和流同时影响下波向线的数值计算

本文提出一种同时考虑地形和均匀流影响的波向线数值解法及其具体的计算步骤。作为例子，对一种理想的简单地形作了数值计算并绘出波向线图．计算结果表明．流对波浪折射有明显的作用。     

海浪能量方向分布形式对近岸波折绕射计算的影响

本文考虑海浪能量在方向上的分布，结合组成波折绕射控制方程组，建立了海浪方向谱的折绕射联合模型，并在简单地形上实施数值计算，比较简单波及折绕射的计算结果，表明：考虑海浪能量的方向分布，能减弱波动能量辐聚、辐散的程序，改变辐聚、辐散的位置。     

Analysis of Mixing of Pollutants in Water Waves and Currents

A vertical two-dimensional turbulence numerical model for the interaction of waves and currents is developed in the paper based on the nonlinear two-equation k-ε model with the VOF method.The one-dimensional equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are defined and the solving process is introduced:The pollutant concentration field,generated by an instant source in waves and currents,is calculated with the model,and then the equivalent advection velocity and equivalent mixing coefficient are obtained by calculating the time derivative of the mean and variance of pollutant concentration probability distribution.The effects of wave period and wave height on the equivalent mixing coefficient for waves and wave-currents are also investigated.     

The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.     

STWAVE模型在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中的应用

我国常用的风推浪计算方法在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有一定局限性。论文通过不同方法计算的波浪要素计算结果的比较,认为STWAVE模型在满足计算精度的前提下,操作简单,方法简便,在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有较大的应用、推广价值。     

Stokes波的谱特性分析

应用理论推导及数值计算方法，对Stokes随机波的谱特性进行了分析。首先将波面方程，海水质点水平速度用一阶波面分量的非线性组合表示，应用平稳随机高阶短的降阶计算法则，得到了波面方程及海水质点水平速度与一阶波面分量的自相关函数之间的关系，从而确定了Stokes随机波浪的波浪谱密度及海水质点水平速度和加速度谱密度，进而求得有关波浪要素的均方根值。文章还应有数值计算方法，分析了波浪基本参数对均方根值的影响。     

波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。