波致粉土底床液化泥沙出流形式试验研究

入海河口三角洲浅海环境中的低坡度粉土海底,受到长期波浪荷载或短期风暴浪作用,能够出现浅表层软弱区局部液化,液化后的泥沙继续受波浪作用,发展成更大规模的海底地质灾害,对海洋开发活动及设施构成严重危害。本文采用黄河三角洲粉土铺设试验底床,进行粉土底床液化后泥沙出流形式的波浪水槽试验,发现波浪作用下粉土底床液化后,液化泥沙将从源区出流。根据波浪水槽试验泥沙液化出流的过程与形式,将底床分为液化流动源区、坡面区、边壁区以及原始底床区四部分,前三个区域的循环转化推动液化泥沙以分层堆积推进的形式出流。本试验研究给出了浅海环境中一种可能的粉土底床液化出流形式。     

波浪对泥沙作用的数值研究及在渤海区域的检验

针对渤海海域开展了波致底切应力对泥沙作用的数值估计。针对浅水条件,通过理想试验估算了波致底切应力对波流耦合底切应力的贡献。针对渤海大风过程,利用ECOMSED模式,通过波流耦合底边界层模型模拟了渤海区域的泥沙浓度,并利用遥感资料对表层泥沙浓度的数值模拟进行了检验。对比结果表明,考虑波浪作用的情况下,模拟结果在总体分布上得到明显的改善。在大风过程中波浪对0~20 m近岸区域的泥沙再悬浮起主导作用。     

东山湾波浪对悬沙浓度场影响的数值模拟研究

研究了波致底切应力和二维辐射应力对悬沙的作用.首先对东山湾的水动力进行了数值模拟并与实测资料进行了对比检验,然后对东山湾悬浮泥沙进行了考虑波浪和不考虑波浪两种情况下的数值模拟并与实测资料进行了相关对比分析.在模式建立过程中,依据东山湾独特的窄口型半封闭河口海湾的特点,基于ECOMSED模式（2002）建立了东山湾三维水动力模型,并通过第三代海浪模式MASNUM加入了波浪对底切应力及辐射应力的影响,通过ECOMSED中的底边界层模型考虑了波浪增强底摩擦的作用,综合分析了东山湾的水动力及泥沙状况.结果表明在东山湾数值模拟中,该模式能较好地模拟这类海域的水动力及泥沙输运状况.在东山湾模拟计算中,潮流的作用强于波浪的作用,但考虑波浪因素后,泥沙模拟结果更好.在波浪的作用中,底切应力相比于二维辐射应力占有绝对的优势,两者相差2个量级以上,因此可以不考虑二维辐射应力的影响.     

泥沙起动规律的研究

本文在波浪与水流共同作用下的底沙起动[1]研究的基础上,对泥沙起动规律进行了研究,分析了波浪、水流共同作用下的底部剪切力,认为底沙颗粒的起动取决于底部合成剪应力的大小。并对导出的波浪与水流共同作用下的底沙起动公式作了验证。文中通过底部加糙及扩大粒径范围的泥沙起动实验,确定了泥沙起动公式中的传播动量系数,推导出了波浪与水流共同作用的底部阻力系数与泥沙粒径的关系式。     

大亚湾大鹏澳菱角石沿岸泥沙动态

本文根据大亚湾大鹏澳菱角石沿岸的波浪、潮流和泥沙资料,探讨了菱角石沿岸泥沙来源、泥沙活动水深和破波带,估算了破波带沿岸输沙率和非破波带底沙单宽输沙率,说明了沿岸泥沙运移以破波带沿岸输沙为主,验证了赵子丹提出的估算沿岸输沙率的关系曲线的可靠性。     

波浪作用下细颗粒泥沙起动试验研究

长江口北槽中下段滩面泥沙以粉砂和极细砂为主,在风浪条件下极易起动,形成近底高浓度含沙层,成为航道淤积的重要泥沙来源。采用长江口北槽中下段滩面现场泥沙,进行了波浪作用下泥沙的起动试验研究。试验结果表明:相同水深条件下,波浪周期越长,泥沙的起动波高越小;相同波浪周期条件下,水深越大,泥沙起动波高越大;对于自然密实1天的泥沙,波浪作用下的起动临界剪切力平均约为0.325 N/m2。本次试验结果和已有的波浪起动公式计算结果以及已有的试验结果进行了比较分析,结果均比较一致。     

珠江口磨刀门月际尺度地貌演变研究

本文基于二维波流耦合泥沙数学模型对磨刀门河口月际尺度地貌演变进行了模拟研究。结果表明:（1）枯季，无波浪作用下，磨刀门河口总体呈淤积状态；波流耦合后，磨刀门河口整体由淤积转为以冲刷为主。洪季，无波浪作用下，磨刀门河口除西汊外均呈淤积状态；波流耦合后，拦门沙内坡与中心区转为冲刷状态，整体仍以淤积为主，但总淤积量减少；（2）月际尺度上，地貌变化幅度为厘米级，洪枯季具有明显差异。不考虑波浪作用下，磨刀门河口洪、枯季均以淤积为主，但洪季淤积幅度更大；波流耦合后，磨刀门河口呈洪淤枯冲的格局；（3）空间上，拦门沙外坡洪淤枯冲，拦门沙顶洪季淤积、枯季变化不大，内坡洪枯季均为冲刷。此外，拦门沙内坡以径潮流作用产生的底切应力为主，外坡以波浪作用引起的底切应力为主。     

考虑波浪辐射应力的潮流泥沙数学模型

根据海岸河口地区潮流、波浪、泥沙的运动特点及其相互作用机制,考虑了波浪场产生的"波浪辐射应力"和"波流挟沙力"动力要素对潮流场和泥沙运动的影响,在泥沙扩散方程中考虑了紊动水流作用,采用有限元加权集中质量法,建立了考虑波浪作用的潮流泥沙数学模型,并利用锦州港港区的潮流及泥沙资料对模型进行了验证。验证结果表明,潮位吻合良好,流速、流向、含沙量分布基本相似。在此基础上,模拟了工程建设前后,港区附近潮流场和泥沙淤积的变化,分析了泥沙骤淤现象。模拟结果表明,该数学模型能够适用于海岸河口地区潮流、泥沙的模拟,为波浪作用下潮流场和泥沙淤积的预测提供一种新的模拟方法,具有良好的应用前景。     

粉沙质海岸波流作用下水体含沙量及其垂线分布试验研究

通过长水槽试验和理论分析研究了粉沙在波浪及波流作用下的基本运动特性。根据挟沙水体能量耗散平衡原理,提出波浪及波流作用下水体平均含沙量计算公式;假定泥沙扩散系数沿水深呈线性关系,由泥沙扩散系数和能量耗散相关,提出波浪及波流作用下临底含沙量和垂线分布计算公式,其计算值和实测值基本吻合。     

波浪作用下的泥沙尖点突变起动模式

本文基于尖点突变理论,针对泥沙运动的复杂特征,建立了波浪作用下的泥沙起动模式,确定了希尔兹极值、相对粒径和反映波浪与泥沙之间相互作用参数的非线性方程,并对该方程进行了拓扑变换。该模式的计算结果与波浪水槽试验资料的对比分析说明,该模式尽管存在一定的系统误差,但是对于波浪作用下的泥沙起动流速的求解和运动状态判别与试验值基本吻合,进而证明了泥沙起动的突变特性和该模型的适用性。     

Equilibrium beach profiles under breaking and non-breaking waves

Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15–0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves.     

波浪作用下浮泥悬扬浓度特性研究

为研究不同波浪环境下,水底浮泥层产生泥沙悬扬后其浓度的分布特性,使用浊度计测定浊度的方法确定水体中泥沙的浓度,并在水槽实验中改变水深、浮泥厚度及造波机的频率和振幅,观察水槽中悬浮泥沙浓度的变化情况,获得水深、波浪频率、波幅以及浮泥厚度对底床泥沙悬扬的影响,分析泥沙浓度的垂向分布特征等。实验结果显示,水深对底床泥沙悬扬的影响最为显著,其他实验参数的影响均不十分显著。同时,通过垂向输沙平衡的分析,得到一个可描述泥沙垂向浓度分布的理论公式,并利用水槽实验结果进行验证。对比结果显示,理论公式所得曲线与实验结果曲线变化趋势一致,部分工况下,理论值稍稍偏大。     

Sediment waves on the South China Sea Slope off southwestern Taiwan: Implications for the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea

Using an integrated multi-beam bathymetry, high-resolution seismic profile, piston core, and AMS ¹⁴C dating data set, the current study identified two sediment wave fields, fields 1 and 2, on the South China Sea Slope off southwestern Taiwan. Field 1 is located in the lower slope, and sediment waves within it are overall oriented perpendicular to the direction of down-slope gravity flows and canyon axis. Geometries, morphology, and internal seismic reflection configurations suggest that the sediment waves in field 1 underwent significant up-slope migration. Field 2, in contrast, is located more basinward, on the continental rise. Instead of having asymmetrical morphology and discontinuous reflections as observed in field 1, the sediment waves in field 2 show more symmetrical morphology and continuous reflections that can be traced from one wave to another, suggesting that vertical aggradation is more active and predominant than up-slope migration.Three sediment wave evolution stages, stage 1 through stage 3, are identified in both field 1 and field 2. During stage 1, the sediment waves are built upon a regional unconformity that separates the underlying mass-transport complexes from the overlying sediment waves. In both of these two fields, there is progressive development of the sediment waves and increase in wave dimensions from the oldest stage 1 to the youngest stage 3, even though up-slope migration is dominant in field 1 whereas vertical aggradation is predominant in field 2 throughout these three stages.The integrated data and the depositional model show that the upper slope of the study area is strongly dissected and eroded by down-slope gravity flows. The net result of strong erosion is that significant amounts of sediment are transported further basinward into the lower slope by gravity flows and/or turbidity currents. The interactions of these currents with bottom (contour) currents induced by the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea and preexisting wavy topography in the lower slope result in the up-slope migrating sediment waves in field 1 and the contourites as observed from cores TS01 and TS02. Further basinward on the continental rise, turbidity currents are waned and diluted, whereas along-slope bottom (contour) currents are vigorous and most likely dominate over the diluted turbidity currents, resulting in the vertically aggraded sediment waves in field 2.The results from this study also provide the further evidence for the intrusion of the Northern Pacific Deep Water into the South China Sea and suggest that this intrusion has probably existed and been capable of affecting sedimentation in South China Sea at least since Quaternary.     

Formation of Equilibrium Beach Profile of the Abandoned Yellow River Delta Coast in North Jiangsu

The abandoned Yellow River Delta coast is a typical erodible silty and muddy coast in China. The paper analyses the marine dynamic characteristics and the mechanism of beach erosion of this area. Analysis and calculation show that in this sea area wave and tidal current action should be considered. Based on the above analysis, an equilibrium beach profile calculation model is developed, in which the wave-current interaction is considered while sediment supply and sediment re-deposition are neglected. The model consists of four parts: (1) calculation of wave parameters, (2) calculation of velocity due to wave-current interaction at different water depth, (3) calculation of friction velocity and shear stress at different water depths, and (4) calculation of the amount of sediment erosion, erosion intensity and variation of beach profile. Calculated results are in good agreement with observed data. Finally, the evolution tendency is discussed and the equilibrium beach profile of this coast is calculated. B     

Modeling beach profile evolution at centennial to millennial scales

The proposed model allows the satisfactory reproduction of the changes in the profile geometry in each time step depending on the sediment budgets in a given morphodynamic system. The applied modification to the general Bruun rule governing the conservation of mass must account for the effect of the sediment transport, which is described in terms of the erosion and accretion rates (Er and and Ac, respectively). The scale of the erosion is a function of the total annual wave energy flux reaching the beach. The accretion is governed by the Er, on the one hand, and by the sediment budget in the morphodynamic system, on the other hand. The equilibrium profile obtained for the case of a balanced sediment budget (Er = Ac) shows good agreement with the observed profiles. A deficit or surplus in the sediment budget results in the shoreline??s retreat or advance accompanied by either a decrease or increase in the slope of the bottom profile. The model accounts for different types of shoreline responses to changes in the sea level (the Bruun rule, the development of a coastal barrier, and abrasion). Sediment budget imbalances can be a factor in the profile??s evolution due to changes in the sea level, while the combination of both factors will produce a variety of behaviors of the shoreline, as was shown by our calculations. The model was verified using historical data on the behavior of the Central Holland coast and the Abkhazian coast during the Late Holocene. It was shown that the model satisfactory reproduces the progradation of coastal barriers. An example of a relatively short-term forecast (over a 100-year period) is given.     

不同形态海湾的水底平衡剖面研究

研究海湾平衡剖面对理解海湾地貌演变具有重要意义。本文给出了收缩型、扩张型和矩形3种典型海湾平面形态对平衡剖面的影响。建立了海湾长度远小于潮汐波长的短尺度海湾的平衡剖面和对应的时均悬沙浓度的解析解。采用水深平均的水动力方程、泥沙输移方程和地形演变方程的耦合模型对以上3种类型海湾的平衡剖面进行了数值模拟，得到了这3种类型海湾的水面、流速、时均悬沙浓度和平衡剖面的计算结果，并利用水面数值结果确定了海湾水面解析解所含的一个待定常数。研究结果给出了3种不同海湾平面形态所对应的平衡剖面形态:矩形海湾对应斜坡型；收缩型海湾对应下凹型；扩张型海湾对应上凸型。所得海湾平衡剖面和时均悬沙浓度的解析解与数值解一致。     

Numerical study of three-dimensional wave-induced longshore current's effects on sediment spreading of the Huanghe River mouth

A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED,which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress,wave dependent surface drag coefficient,wave-induced surface mixing,SWAN,damping function of sediment on turbulence,sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS.The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth.Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out.The modeling results agree with measurement data.In terms of simulation results,it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m.Moreover,wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too.     

Numerical Modeling on Suspended Sediment Transportation in the Hangzhou Bay

In this paper the characteristics of tidal flow and seasonal variation of seidment content in theHangzhou Bay and their affecting factors are studied.Field investigations and data analysis indicate thatthe sediment movement is mainly influenced by the Yangtze estuary and the sediment of the Yangtze estua-ry is induced by wind wave and tidal flow.Owing to the variation of dynamic conditions,the instanta-neous sediment content is controlled by tidal flow,wind wave,depth of water and tidal range synthetically.A sediment content relationship formula is established with related factors.A non-equilibrium2-dimensional numerical model of suspended sediment transportation is set up,and the finite element meth-od is applied.The computation results of the model is in accordance with field data.