Higher harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged rectangular step in a wave flume

The decomposition of a monochromatic wave over a submerged plate is investigated experimentally in a wave flume. Bound and free higher harmonic modes propagating upstream and downstream the structure are discriminated by means of moving resistive probes. The first-order analysis shows a resonant behaviour linked to the ratio of the plate's width and the fundamental mode wavelength over the plate. The second-order analysis shows an energy transfer from the fundamental mode towards free harmonics propagating downstream the structure. This transfer is linked to the ratio of the width of the plate and the bound harmonic wavelength over the plate. We also performed experiments with a submerged step to compare the efficiency of both structures. The submerged plate is shown to be a more efficient breakwater than the step, at the first as well as the second-order.     

Physical model studies on wave transmission of a submerged inclined plate breakwater

This paper examines the results of physical model studies conducted in a monochromatic wave flume, to evaluate the wave transmission characteristics of a submerged plate breakwater consisting of a fixed plate of 0.50 m length and 0.003 m thickness. The model was oriented at varying inclinations and submergence. The influence of wave steepness, relative depth, relative submergence and angle of inclination on wave transmission was analysed. It was found that the horizontal plate is effective for short waves with steepness parameter higher than 5×10^?3 in relative depth grater than 0.21. The plate oriented at an angle of inclination of 60° is found to be effective for the entire ranges of wave parameters considered for the study and it reduces the wave height by about 40%.     

柔性水囊潜堤消波特性的溃坝水槽试验研究

柔性水囊潜堤由橡胶制成，内部充水，具有结构简单、造价低廉等优点，能较好满足人工岛、跨海桥梁、海洋平台等基础设施建设工程对简单便携、拆装方便的临时防波堤的需求。为了探究柔性水囊潜堤的消波特性，在溃坝水槽内开展溃坝波与半圆柱形柔性水囊潜堤相互作用的试验研究，重点探究柔性水囊潜堤与溃坝波相互作用过程中水位变化特性，并与半圆柱刚性潜堤的性能进行比较；同时分析柔性水囊潜堤内部初始水压和浸没深度等参数对其消波性能的影响。结果表明：柔性水囊潜堤能够用作临时防波堤来衰减波浪；与半圆柱刚性潜堤相比，柔性水囊潜堤在降低溃坝波无量纲最大水位、提高消波性能方面更具优势；内部初始水压是影响柔性水囊潜堤消波性能的重要因素，适当降低内部初始水压，有利于增强柔性潜堤的变形程度，进而增加波能耗散，可获得更好的消波效果；而增加浸没深度即潜深，会使得柔性水囊潜堤对溃坝波的影响程度降低，消波效果减弱。     

Interaction mechanisms among waves,currents and a submerged plate

Wave-induced loads on a submerged plate, representative of submerged breakwater, coastal-bridge deck and a certain type of wave energy converter, in a uniform current are investigated in this study using fully nonlinear numerical wave tanks (NWTs) based on potential flow theory. The coupling effect of wave and current is explored, and the underlying interaction mechanisms of the hydrodynamic forces are described. The presence of a background current modifies the frequency dispersion. It produces changes of the water-surface elevation, and also has an effect on wave-induced loads. Depending on the nonlinearity, higher harmonic wave components are generated above the submerged plate. These contribute to the wave forces. It is found that the horizontal and the vertical force, hence the moment, are affected in the opposite way by the currents. The Doppler shifted effect dominates the vertical force and the moment on the plate. Whereas, the Doppler shifted effect and the generation of higher wave harmonics play opposite roles on the horizontal forces. The contribution of 2^nd order harmonics is found to be up to 30% of the linear component. The current-induced drag force, represented by the advection term ρU∂φ/∂x in the pressure equation, is found to lead to a decrease in the moment for the most range of wavelengths considered, and an increase in the moment for a small range of longer waves.     

Transmitted and reflected coefficients for horizontal or vertical plate type breakwater

Surface or submerged horizontal or vertical plate can be considered as a new concept breakwater.This paper investigates the wave-plate interaction of this type of breakwater by use of the boundary element method.The relationships of wave transmitted and reflected among plate thickness,submergence and length are carefully studied by numerical simulation.It is shown that:(1) The transmitted coefficients of submerged horizontal plate or vertical plate will become larger with the increase of plate thickness and reduce rapidly with the decrease of plate submergence.(2) Both surface horizontal and vertical plate are efficient for intermediate and short wave elimination,but vertical plate is more effective.(3) Submerged horizontal plate can act more effectively than submerged vertical plate does.With all wave frequencies,the vertical plate almost has no wave elimination effect.     

Scattering of water wave by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged permeable breakwater

Based on a two-dimensional linear water wave theory, this study develops the boundary element method (BEM) to examine normally incident wave scattering by a fixed, submerged, horizontal, impermeable plate and a submerged permeable breakwater in water of finite depth. Numerical results for the transmission coefficients are also presented. In addition, the numerical technique's accuracy is demonstrated by comparing the numerical results with previously published numerical and experimental ones. According to that comparison, the transmission coefficient relies not only on the submergence of the horizontal impermeable plate and the height of the permeable breakwater, but also on the distance between horizontal plate and permeable breakwater. Results presented herein confirm that the transmission coefficient is minimum for the distance approximately equal to four times the water depth.     

Scattering of water wave by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged permeable breakwater

Based on a two-dimensional linear water wave theory, this study develops the boundary element method (BEM) to examine normally incident wave scattering by a fixed, submerged, horizontal, impermeable plate and a submerged permeable breakwater in water of finite depth. Numerical results for the transmission coefficients are also presented. In addition, the numerical technique's accuracy is demonstrated by comparing the numerical results with previously published numerical and experimental ones. According to that comparison, the transmission coefficient relies not only on the submergence of the horizontal impermeable plate and the height of the permeable breakwater, but also on the distance between horizontal plate and permeable breakwater. Results presented herein confirm that the transmission coefficient is minimum for the distance approximately equal to four times the water depth.     

多个淹没水平圆柱诱发高阶谐波特性的数值与试验研究

基于势流理论采用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟非线性波浪与淹没水平双、三圆柱作用的数值水槽模型,其中采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法更新自由水面,四阶Runga-Kutta方法进行时间步进。利用两点法分离得到潜体下游高阶自由波,进而研究潜体间距、布置形式等对高倍频自由波的影响。同时在物理水槽内开展多潜体高阶谐波物理模型试验,并将试验结果与数值结果进行对比,吻合较好。研究发现:淹没双圆柱下游高阶谐波幅值随潜体间距呈现周期性振荡变化,其振荡的重现距离约为波长一半。而淹没三圆柱下游的高阶谐波随第一个间距呈周期性振荡变化,随第二个间距的增大而减小。     

波浪与起伏水平板防波堤相互作用数值模拟

利用自主研发的基于紧致插值曲线CIP(constrained interpolation profile)方法的数学模型,开展规则波与起伏水平板防波堤相互作用的数值模拟研究。模型在笛卡尔直角坐标下建立,以CIP方法为流场基本求解器,分步求解Navier-Stokes方程,利用高精度的流体体积类型的THINC/SW (tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing with slope weighting)方法重构自由液面,采用浸入边界IBM(immersed boundary method)方法处理波浪与起伏板防波堤的耦合作用问题,通过动量源项造波方法模拟波浪的产生。重点关注波浪的浅水变形和板两端涡旋脱落的非线性现象,分析不同潜深、波要素下的板周围流场分布、板的运动响应和波浪的反透射系数。结果表明:起伏水平板主要通过能量反射、板上浅水变形和板两端的涡脱落消能,能有效减小板后波高,具有作为防波堤的可行性。     

Numerical study on the characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on slope

In this study,characteristics of flow field and wave propagation near submerged breakwater on a sloping bed are investigated with numerical model. The governing equations of the vertical twodimensional model are Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes equations. The Reynolds stress terms are closed by a nonlinear k ε turbulence transportation model. The free surface is traced through the PILC-VOF method. The proposed numerical model is verified with experimental results. The numerical result shows that the wave profile may become more asymmetrical when wave propa-gates over breakwater. When wave crest propagates over breakwater,the anticlockwise vortex may generate. On the contrary,when wave hollow propagates over breakwater,the clockwise vortex may generate. Meanwhile,the influenced zone of vortex created by wave crest is larger than that created by wave hollow. All the maximum values of the turbulent kinetic energy,turbulent dissi-pation and eddy viscosity occur on the top of breakwater. Both the turbulent dissipation and eddy viscosity increase as the turbulent kinetic energy increases. Wave energy may rapidly decrease near the breakwater because turbulent dissipation increases and energy in lower harmonics is transferred into higher harmonics.     

聚焦波作用下透水潜堤消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压数值计算模型,本文系统研究了聚焦波作用下透水潜堤的消波特性,通过设置合理的计算工况,详细分析了波高、堤顶水深、谱峰周期、孔隙率以及堤顶宽度5种因素对透水潜堤消波特性的影响。与此同时,本文将透水潜堤的计算结果同不透水潜堤的计算结果进行了对比分析。计算结果表明:透水潜堤对聚焦波的消减作用要强于不透水潜堤,从而说明,透水潜堤能更有效地降低畸形波对海岸基础设施的影响;波高和堤顶水深是影响潜堤消波特性的重要因素,随入射波高增加、堤顶水深减小,透水潜堤对波浪的消减作用逐渐增强。透水潜堤对长周期波浪的消波效果较差。在本文考虑的孔隙率范围内,孔隙率越大,透水潜堤消波效果越好;当孔隙率为0.4,堤顶宽度为0.612 5 m时,透水潜堤可消减54%的入射波能,比不透水潜堤对入射波能的消减增加36.1%。本文研究结果可为进一步认识透水潜堤的消波特性和海岸防护工程设计提供相应的参考。     

潜堤后高阶自由谐波的研究

基于高阶边界元方法的完全非线性数值水槽模型模拟潜堤地形上波浪的传播变形,通过与实验值进行比较,考察数学模型的正确性.采用两点法分离得到堤后高倍频自由波来研究入射波参数、水深对堤后高倍频自由波的影响.研究发现:基频波、二阶和三阶自由波幅值分别与入射波波幅成线性、二次和三次函数关系,基频波幅值基本不随波浪周期变化,而二阶和...     

没水倾斜板式防波堤消波性能分析

提出了一种将波浪中倾斜板问题等效化简为波浪中水平板单元组的方法,该方法建立在使用分离变量法求解水工结构边值问题的基础上,并使用伽辽金法精确求解连续边界条件,确定考虑衰减波态的速度势函数,从而求解没水倾斜板结构的消波性能。等效化简法计算精度于边界元法相当,且计算单元数量少、开销低。基于二维线性势波理论,对没水倾斜板式防波堤消波性能分析显示,没水板的倾斜角度、没水深度与板长是结构消波性能的控制因素:没水倾斜板防波堤的消波性能优于没水水平板防波堤的消波性能,随着没水板结构的倾斜角度增大,没水倾斜板结构的波浪透射系数显著减小,且长板优于短板,浅板优于深板;与前人的水槽实验对比显示,相对没水深度与波陡影响结构的消波性能,且波陡造成的波浪破碎贡献了显著的波能消耗。该结论对板式防波堤的结构配置、优化设计有重要意义。     

水下平板与波浪相互作用完全非线性数值模拟(英文)

利用完全非线性数值波浪水槽技术研究水下平板与波浪的相互作用。假定水下平板厚度极薄、刚性,位于有限水深并且非常接近自由水面。应用四阶龙格库塔方法追踪每一时刻的波面形状,采用阻尼层来吸收反射波以保证算法的稳定性,同时引入平滑和重组的方法抑制自由表面控制点的较高梯度。通过对波浪与浮动圆柱相互作用的数值模拟证实了数值波浪水槽方法的有效性,计算结果与线性理论吻合良好。在波浪数值水槽方法中引入造波板模拟波浪产生并与水下平板发生相互作用,应用傅立叶解析方法对波面变形、波浪力作了分析。结果表明在板非常接近自由水面的情况下会表现出现很强的非线性,揭示了线性理论的局限性。     

Performance of hemi-cylindrical and rectangular submerged breakwaters

A parametric experimental study is conducted to compare the reflection and transmission characteristics of submerged hemi-cylindrical and rectangular rigid and water-filled flexible breakwater models. The results show that, for the rigid breakwaters, rectangular models are more effective than hemi-cylindrical ones in terms of reduction of transmitted waves. As for the flexible breakwaters, the hemi-cylindrical models may give better wave reflection than rectangular ones. However, the energy loss induced by the rectangular breakwaters is much larger and more significant to result in an overall better efficiency in terms of reduction in wave transmission. The effects of internal pressure show that the lowest pressurized flexible models considered in this work are the most effective in the reduction of the transmitted wave height. Higher wave reflection, lower wave transmission and higher energy loss are obtained consistently at the lower submergence depth ratio.     

Experimental study on the performance of twin plate breakwater

The wave transmission characteristics and wave induced pressures on twin plate breakwater are investigated experimentally in regular and random waves.A total of twenty pressure transducers are fixed on four surfaces of twin plate to measure the wave induced dynamic pressures.The spatial distribution of dynamic wave pressure is given along the surface of the twin plate.The uplift wave force obtained by integrating the hydrodynamic pressure along the structure is presented.Discussed are the influence of different incident wave parameters including the relative plate width B /L,relative wave height /i H a and relative submergence depth s /a on the non-dimensional dynamic wave pressures and total wave forces.From the investigation,it is found that the optimum transmission coefficient,t K occurs around B /L 0.41 ~ 0.43,and the twin plate breakwater is more effective in different water depths.The maximum of pressure ratio decreases from 1.8 to 1.1 when the relative submergence depth of top plate is increased from 0.8to +0.8.     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Applicability of numerical models to nonlinear dispersive waves

The applicability of three different wave-propagation models in nonlinear dispersive wave fields has been investigated. The numerical models tested here are based on three different wave theories: a fully nonlinear potential theory, a Stokes second-order theory, and a Boussinesq-type theory with an improved dispersion relation. Physical experiments and computations were conducted for wave evolutions during passage over a submerged shelf under various wave conditions. As expected, the fully nonlinear solutions agree better with the measurements than do the other solutions. Although the second-order solution has sufficient accuracy for smaller-amplitude wave cases, the truncation after the third harmonics causes significant discrepancies in wave form for larger waves. In addition, the second-order model markedly overestimates the first- and second-harmonic amplitudes in transmitted waves. The Boussinesq model provides excellent predictions of wave profile over the shelf even in larger wave cases. However, this model also overestimates the magnitudes of several higher harmonics in transmitted waves. These facts may indicate that energy transfer from bound components into free waves in these higher harmonics cannot be accurately evaluated by the Boussinesq-type equations.     

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.