Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.     

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.     

Internal wave band kinetic energy production: flat vs. sloping bottom

Velocity and temperature measurements obtained with acoustic Doppler current profilers and thermistor strings are used to evaluate the production of internal wave band kinetic energy mainly in the frequency band σ>15 cpd. Results from a flat 19 m deep, vigorous tidal environment in a shelf sea are compared with energy production in a bottom boundary layer above a continental slope. In the tidal environment, maximum production occurs in the near-bottom and near-surface layers. A distinct mid-depth maximum in KE production occurs during a period when wind speeds exceed 10 m s⁻¹ and significant wave height ∼2 m. At the same time, no significant changes in the along-shore current speed take place but the cross-shore current, generated by strong stratification, is weakened. This suggests a direct energy input from the wind via surface waves into the water column turbulence. Maximum kinetic energy production in the frequency band σ>1.9 cpd, thus including the semidiurnal tide, occurs at mid-depth when strong stratification is present. The overall magnitude of internal wave band kinetic energy production agrees well with independent dissipation estimates obtained from microstructure profilers. Above the sloping bottom, KE production is somewhat larger than observed in the shallow tidal environment, despite rms currents being ∼50% smaller and wind effects being small. Above the sloping bottom KE shear production was comparable to buoyancy production. The latter was negligible at the shelf sea site.     

Numerical study of tidal dynamics in the South China Sea with adjoint method

We adopt a parameterized internal tide dissipation term to the two-dimensional (2-D) shallow water equations, and develop the corresponding adjoint model to investigate tidal dynamics in the South China Sea (SCS). The harmonic constants derived from 63 tidal gauge stations and 24 TOPEX/Poseidon (T/P) satellite altimeter crossover points are assimilated into the adjoint model to minimize the deviations of the simulated results and observations by optimizing the bottom friction coefficient and the internal tide dissipation coefficient. Tidal constituents M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ are simulated simultaneously. The numerical results (assimilating only tidal gauge data) agree well with T/P data showing that the model results are reliable. The co-tidal charts of M₂, S₂, K₁ and O₁ are obtained, which reflect the characteristics of tides in the SCS. The tidal energy flux is analyzed based on numerical results. The strongest tidal energy flux appears in the Luzon Strait (LS) for both semi-diurnal and diurnal tidal constituents. The analysis of tidal energy dissipation indicates that the bottom friction dissipation occurs mainly in shallow water area, meanwhile the internal tide dissipation is mainly concentrated in the LS and the deep basin of the SCS. The tidal energetics in the LS is examined showing that the tidal energy input closely balances the tidal energy dissipation.     

内潮耗散与自吸-负荷潮对南海潮波影响的数值研究

利用非结构三角形网格的FVCOM海洋数值模式,在其传统二维潮波方程中加入参数化的内潮耗散项和自吸-负荷潮项,计算了南海及其周边海域的M_2、S_2、K_1和O_1分潮的分布。与实测值的比较表明,引入这两项对模拟准确度的提高有明显效果。根据模式结果本文计算分析了研究海域的潮能输入和耗散。能量输入计算表明,能通量是潮能输入的最主要构成部分,通过吕宋海峡断面进入南海的M_2和K_1分潮能通量分别为38和29GW;半日周期的自吸-负荷潮能量输入以负值居多,而全日周期的自吸-负荷潮能量输入以正值居多,因而自吸-负荷潮减弱了南海的半日潮,并加强了南海的全日潮。引潮力的作用也减弱了半日潮而加强了全日潮,但其作用要小于自吸-负荷潮。潮能耗散的分析显示底摩擦耗散在沿岸浅水区域起主导作用,内潮耗散则主要发生在深水区域。内潮耗散的最大值出现在吕宋海峡,且位于南海之外的海峡东部的耗散量大于位于南海之内的海峡西部的耗散量。对M_2和K_1分潮吕宋海峡的内潮耗散总值分别达到16和23GW。     

北极薄冰-煎饼冰区域中不同重力波驱动形成海流的敏感性分析

A coupled ocean-ice-wave model is used to study ice-edge jet and eddy genesis during surface gravity wave dissipation in a frazil-pancake ice zone. With observational data from the Beaufort Sea, possible wave dissipation processes are evaluated using sensitivity experiments. As wave energy dissipated, energy was transferred into ice floe through radiation stress. Later, energy was in turn transferred into current through ocean-ice interfacial stress. Since most of the wave energy is dissipated at the ice edge, ice-edge jets, which contained strong horizontal shear, appeared both in the ice zone and the ocean. Meanwhile, the wave propagation direction determines the velocity partition in the along-ice-edge and cross-ice-edge directions, which in turn determines the strength of the along-ice-edge jet and cross-ice-edge velocity. The momentum applied in the along-ice-edge(cross-ice-edge)direction increased(decreased) with larger incident angle, which is favorable condition for producing stronger mesoscale eddies, vice versa. The dissipation rate increases(decreases) with larger(smaller) wavenumber, which enhances(reduces) the jet strength and the strength of the mesoscale eddy. The strong along-ice-edge jet may extend to a deep layer(> 200 m). If the water depth is too shallow(e.g., 80 m), the jet may be largely dampened by bottom drag, and no visible mesoscale eddies are found. The results suggest that the bathymetry and incident wavenumber(magnitude and propagation direction) are important for wave-driven current and mesoscale eddy genesis.     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

底地形变化对内潮产生影响的数值研究

本文结合南沙群岛海域出现内潮的水文背景,建立了一个两层数值模式,并通过数值试验来探讨由正压潮波作用下的内潮产生机制。结果表明：底形效庆是促使内潮产生的重要因子;内潮心要在大陆坡产生,然后分别沿着大陆架和深海平原两个方向传播;内潮斜压流速的量级可与正压流速的相比拟。     

Wave Hindcast for the Neighbouring Seas of Korea Based on Loosely Coupled Wave-Tide-Surge Model

A hindcast simulation of 75 typhoons and winter monsoons which affected the coastal areas of Korean Peninsula is performed by use of a third generation ocean wave prediction model, WAM-cycle 4 model, loosely coupled with a com-bined tide and surge model. Typhoon wind fields are derived from the planetary marine boundary layer model for effective neutral winds embedding the vortical storm wind from the parameterized Rankin vortex type model in the limited areas of the overall modeled region. The hindcasted results illustrate that significant wave heights (SWH) considering the wave-tide-surge coupled process are significantly different from the results via the decoupled case especially in the region of the estuaries of the Changjiang Estuary, The Hangzhou Bay, and the southwestern tip of Korean Peninsula. This extensive model simulation is the first attempt to investigate the strong wave-tide-surge interaction for the shallow depth area along the coasts of the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea Continental     

吐噶喇海峡内潮的能量收支和大小潮变化

吐噶喇海峡是西北太平洋重要的内潮产生区域,该区域内产生的内潮对于东海陆架和西北太平洋的混合和物质输运有十分重要的作用。水平分辨率为3km的JCOPE-T(JapanCoastalOcean PredictabilityExperiment—Tides)水动力学模式的结果表明,吐噶喇海峡的内潮主要产生在地形变化剧烈的海山和海岛附近,其引起的等密面起伏振幅可达30m。吐噶喇海峡的内潮在垂直于等深线方向分为两支向外传播:一支向西北方向传播,进入东海陆架后迅速减小;另一支向东南方向传播,进入西北太平洋。吐噶喇海峡潮能丰富,其在约半个月内的平均输入的净正压潮能通量为13.92GW,其中约有3.73GW转化为内潮能量。生成的内潮能量有77.2%在当地耗散,传出的内潮能通量为0.84GW,主要通过西北和东南两个边界传出。该区域潮能通量有显著的大小潮变化,大潮期间输入的正压潮净能通量和产生的内潮能通量均约为小潮期间的2倍,但其主要产生区域基本不变,且内潮能量耗散比率均在产生的内潮通量的76%—79%。另外,内潮能通量的传播方向也没有发生变化,仍主要通过西北和东南两个边界传出。因此,大小潮的变化仅影响吐噶喇海峡处产生的内潮能量的大小,不影响其产生区域、传播方向和耗散比率。     

Impact of parameterized lee wave drag on the energy budget of an eddying global ocean model

The impact of parameterized topographic internal lee wave drag on the input and output terms in the total mechanical energy budget of a hybrid coordinate high-resolution global ocean general circulation model forced by winds and air-sea buoyancy fluxes is examined here. Wave drag, which parameterizes the generation of internal lee waves arising from geostrophic flow impinging upon rough topography, is included in the prognostic model, ensuring that abyssal currents and stratification in the model are affected by the wave drag.An inline mechanical (kinetic plus gravitational potential) energy budget including four dissipative terms (parameterized topographic internal lee wave drag, quadratic bottom boundary layer drag, vertical eddy viscosity, and horizontal eddy viscosity) demonstrates that wave drag dissipates less energy in the model than a diagnostic (offline) estimate would suggest, due to reductions in both the abyssal currents and stratification. The equator experiences the largest reduction in energy dissipation associated with wave drag in inline versus offline estimates. Quadratic bottom drag is the energy sink most affected globally by the presence of wave drag in the model; other energy sinks are substantially affected locally, but not in their global integrals. It is suggested that wave drag cannot be mimicked by artificially increasing the quadratic bottom drag because the energy dissipation rates associated with bottom drag are not spatially correlated with those associated with wave drag where the latter are small. Additionally, in contrast to bottom drag, wave drag is a non-local energy sink.All four aforementioned dissipative terms contribute substantially to the total energy dissipation rate of about one terawatt. The partial time derivative of potential energy (non-zero since the isopycnal depths have a long adjustment time), the surface advective fluxes of potential energy, the rate of change of potential energy due to diffusive mass fluxes, and the conversion between internal energy and potential energy also play a non-negligible role in the total mechanical energy budget. Reasons for the <10% total mechanical energy budget imbalance are discussed.     

潮汐影响下海滩前滨波浪传播耗能过程分析

文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。     

Ocean Tide Models Developed by Assimilating TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Data into Hydrodynamical Model: A Global Model and a Regional Model around Japan

A global ocean tide model (NAO.99b model) representing major 16 constituents with a spatial resolution of 0.5° has been estimated by assimilating about 5 years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data into barotropic hydrodynamical model. The new solution is characterized by reduced errors in shallow waters compared to the other two models recently developed; CSR4.0 model (improved version of Eanes and Bettadpur, 1994) and GOT99.2b model (Ray, 1999), which are demonstrated in comparison with tide gauge data and collinear residual reduction test. This property mainly benefits from fine-scale along-track tidal analysis of TOPEX/POSEIDON data. A high-resolution (1/12°) regional ocean tide model around Japan (NAO.99Jb model) by assimilating both TOPEX/POSEIDON data and 219 coastal tide gauge data is also developed. A comparison with 80 independent coastal tide gauge data shows the better performance of NAO.99Jb model in the coastal region compared with the other global models. Tidal dissipation around Japan has been investigated for M₂ and K₁ constituents by using NAO.99Jb model. The result suggests that the tidal energy is mainly dissipated by bottom friction in localized area in shallow seas; the M₂ ocean tidal energy is mainly dissipated in the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea at the mean rate of 155 GW, while the K₁ energy is mainly dissipated in the Sea of Okhotsk at the mean rate of 89 GW. TOPEX/POSEIDON data, however, detects broadly distributed surface manifestation of M₂ internal tide, which observationally suggests that the tidal energy is also dissipated by the energy conversion into baroclinic tide.     

复杂地形下海浪数值模式的特征线计算格式

LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。     

南海北部陆架区内波的演变与耗散机制

海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。     

Study of intensive internal waves in the shelf zone of Morocco

Conditions for generating a train of intensive internal waves and a solitary internal wave, as well as the evolution and dissipation of shelf waves have been studied using temperature measurements at six buoy moorings and an array of distributed temperature meters towed in the Morocco shelf zone. Waves of each type have been numerically simulated. The paper's focus is the generation of a baroclinic tide in a shelf zone and the occurrence of a packet of intensive internal waves on the back slope of a baroclinic wave. Besides, it studies the mechanism responsible for the generation of a solitary internal wave of soliton type. Thein situ data and the model data are matched up and shown to be consistent, in terms of quality and quantity. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Modified mild slope equation and open boundary conditions

A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used.     

Sea ice evolution and internal wave generation due to a tidal jet in a frozen sea

The purpose of this study is to investigate the influence of tidal currents on sea ice in Spitsbergen fjords which may cause rapid decrease of the ice thickness due to erosion and melting of the ice. The effect was studied in-situ near the narrow channel connecting the Van Mijen Fjord and Lake Vallunden. The strong jet-like tidal currents in the strait driven by semidiurnal tide continue into the lake preventing ice freezing along a narrow strip during high tide and relatively warm weather. Understanding the formation of open water regions or regions with thin ice is important for the safe transportation on ice. We estimate conditions and representative time over which strong tidal current influences ice thickness along a narrow strip in solid ice. Changes of tidal phase and decrease in air temperature influence freezing of the strip in one-two days. While the tidal flow leaves the strait it overflows a shallow bar and generates internal lee waves propagating downslope and mixing the water. Tidal forcing of internal waves was measured using pressure gauges and by scanning of the ice surface during flood and ebb phases. Internal waves were measured using three types of CTD instruments and an ADCP current meter. The generation of wave packets occurs every tidal cycle when the current flows into the lake, but no generation occurs during the ebb phase of the tide because the currents over the bar slope are low. Parameters of internal waves are estimated. Model simulations confirm generation of internal wave train by the tidal current descending downslope.     

崇明岛南侧盐沼潮滩消能状态研究

沿海盐沼潮滩可以有效降低波浪高度,耗散波浪能量,在海岸防护和沿海城市安全中扮演着重要角色。以长江河口崇明岛南侧盐沼潮滩为对象,基于不同潮间带实测波浪变化数据,采用波能衰减模型对波浪横向沿潮滩衰减状态进行定量分析,由此探讨波浪衰减主控要素。结果表明:波浪沿盐沼潮滩向岸传播过程中,波高以及波能大幅下降,其中光滩—芦苇前部区域波能平均下降19%,芦苇区域波能平均下降71%,有植被覆盖区域对波浪的衰减效应更为显著。同时,水深、入射波高及阻力是影响盐沼潮滩波浪衰减的主要因素,波浪衰减强度随水深增大而减小,入射波高增加以及阻力的增大而增强。     

内波的生成、传播、遥感观测及其与海洋结构物相互作用研究进展

内波是层结海洋中普遍存在的一种海洋动力学现象,包含内潮、内孤立波、近惯性内波等多种形式,由于其携带能量巨大,分布范围广,发生频率高,对海洋结构物造成严重威胁。对国内外关于内波生成、传播演化、海遥感观测及其与海洋结构物相互作用方面的研究进展进行综述。总结了关于内波的生成机制、浅水和深水区域内波传播演化特征、实际海洋内波特征的遥感观测以及内波与海洋平台及水下潜器相互作用的研究成果,讨论了数值模拟、模型试验、遥感观测等研究手段在海洋内波研究中的应用以及取得的相应研究成果。最后,在探讨海洋内波研究趋势的基础上对未来关于内波生成机制及其海洋学特征观测相关研究需考虑和解决的问题进行了展望。