Probabilistic distribution of the maximum wave height

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the     

Probabilistic Distribution of the Maximum Wave Heigh

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio. The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the variable cannot be easily defined. In this study, however, it can be derived from the relationship between the maximum and significant waves in a nonbreaking environment. Some examples are shown to validate the derived probability density function for the wave ratio parameter. By introducing the wave height ratio into reliability analysis of caisson breakwater, the maximum wave height can be used as an independent and primary random variable, which means that the risk of caisson failure during its lifetime can be evaluated realistically.     

直立防波堤振动──滑移运动分析的模型和方法

建立了一个动力系统模型及相应分析方法,对破碎波冲击作用下直立式防波堤的振动-滑移运动过程进行数值模拟,预测特殊波浪力作用下防波堤可能出现的滑移量.用本文模型和方法对一沉箱防波堤在破碎波作用下的运动过程进行了计算,并分析了沿基床顶面的滑移对沉箱位移、摇摆角、滑移力和倾覆力矩的影响.     

防浪建筑物影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律，并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中，短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减，低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大，波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变；海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小，低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大，防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的；当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时，低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。     

波浪作用下方块石护面稳定性研究

护面是海堤和护岸的重要结构,直接抵御波浪作用,可采用人工块体、块石等,种类繁多。采用紧密排列方块石作为护面结构是一种景观性较好的型式,依据方块石厚度不同能抵御不同大小的波浪作用。干砌条石及干砌块石护面曾有一些规范给出过计算方法,但现行规范没有相关内容可供设计参考,已有计算方法的理论分析还存在不足。当波浪与斜坡堤相互作用时,方块石护面出现位移或脱落可能发生在波浪回落最低阶段、波浪破碎打击阶段及破后爬高水流作用阶段,通过研究得到了不同阶段波浪对方块石护面作用力的计算方法。在波浪回落最低阶段,考虑了护面及其下方垫层渗透性影响,通过理论分析建立了低渗透护面浮托压强计算模型,采用物模试验将计算结果与试验测量值进行了对比分析,结果表明总体趋势符合,量值接近;在波浪破碎冲击阶段,基于射流冲击作用原理,提出了波浪在斜坡面破碎冲击压强计算方法,通过试验分析了波浪破碎水深波高比与破波相似参数的关系,利用浅水波理论计算了波浪破碎冲击水流流速;在爬高水流作用阶段,提出了水流引起的方块石护面垂直浮托力及水平拖曳力的计算方法,通过试验结果拟合了浮托力系数和拖曳力系数,验证了水流作用下护面的受力特征。最后,针对方块...     

Wave transmission by overtopping due to random waves

Experimental studies of wave transmission by overtopping for a smooth impermeable breakwater with 1:1.5 slope under both regular and random waves were conducted. A resulting relationship between the transmission coefficient (determined by wave height and wave period) and a breakwater height above mean water level normalized with the height of wave run-up measured directly by capacity wave meter is reported. Meanwhile, their discrepancies in both regular and random waves are also discussed in this study. The authors find also that the transmitted significant wave period by overtopping of random waves may be much longer than those of the incoming wave. This characteristic is especially prominent and probably creates the oscillation phenomenon in the wave basin at the back of breakwater when the breakwater height (above mean water level) to water depth ratio is greater than 0.23 and the incoming wave period is longer than 8 sec.     

聚焦波作用下透水潜堤消波特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压数值计算模型,本文系统研究了聚焦波作用下透水潜堤的消波特性,通过设置合理的计算工况,详细分析了波高、堤顶水深、谱峰周期、孔隙率以及堤顶宽度5种因素对透水潜堤消波特性的影响。与此同时,本文将透水潜堤的计算结果同不透水潜堤的计算结果进行了对比分析。计算结果表明:透水潜堤对聚焦波的消减作用要强于不透水潜堤,从而说明,透水潜堤能更有效地降低畸形波对海岸基础设施的影响;波高和堤顶水深是影响潜堤消波特性的重要因素,随入射波高增加、堤顶水深减小,透水潜堤对波浪的消减作用逐渐增强。透水潜堤对长周期波浪的消波效果较差。在本文考虑的孔隙率范围内,孔隙率越大,透水潜堤消波效果越好;当孔隙率为0.4,堤顶宽度为0.612 5 m时,透水潜堤可消减54%的入射波能,比不透水潜堤对入射波能的消减增加36.1%。本文研究结果可为进一步认识透水潜堤的消波特性和海岸防护工程设计提供相应的参考。     

带胸墙斜坡堤越波量的试验研究

带胸墙斜坡式防波堤堤顶标高的合理确定，有赖于越波量的正确计算。本文基于水力学中流量系数的概念，建立越波量的计算公式。对影响流量系数的几个主要因素：波高、波陡、胸墙高、平台宽度、相对水深和护面结构等，进行了较系统的试验和讨论，提出了确定流量系数的经验公式。另外，还根据越波量的大小及越波波态，将堤分为：不越水堤、少量越水堤、越水堤及半潜堤四类，可作为合理确定堤顶标高时参考。     

Vibrating-Rocking Motion of Caisson Breakwater Under Breaking Wave Impact

The possible motions of a caisson breakwater under dynamic load excitation include vibrating, vibrating-sliding and vibrating-rocking motions. The models of vibrating motion and vibrating-sliding motion have been proposed in an early paper. In this paper, a model of vibrating-rocking motion of caisson breakwaters under breaking wave impact is presented, which can be used to simulate the histories of vibrating-rocking motion of caisson breakwaters. The effect of rocking motion on the displacement, rotation, sliding force and overturning moment of breakwaters is investigated. In case the overturning moment exceeds the stability moment of a caisson, the caisson may only rock. The caisson overturns only in case the rocking angle exceeds the critical angle. It is shown that the sliding force and overturning moment of breakwaters can be reduced effectively due to the rocking motion. It is proposed that some rocking motion should be allowed in breakwater design.     

柔性水囊潜堤消波特性的溃坝水槽试验研究

柔性水囊潜堤由橡胶制成，内部充水，具有结构简单、造价低廉等优点，能较好满足人工岛、跨海桥梁、海洋平台等基础设施建设工程对简单便携、拆装方便的临时防波堤的需求。为了探究柔性水囊潜堤的消波特性，在溃坝水槽内开展溃坝波与半圆柱形柔性水囊潜堤相互作用的试验研究，重点探究柔性水囊潜堤与溃坝波相互作用过程中水位变化特性，并与半圆柱刚性潜堤的性能进行比较；同时分析柔性水囊潜堤内部初始水压和浸没深度等参数对其消波性能的影响。结果表明：柔性水囊潜堤能够用作临时防波堤来衰减波浪；与半圆柱刚性潜堤相比，柔性水囊潜堤在降低溃坝波无量纲最大水位、提高消波性能方面更具优势；内部初始水压是影响柔性水囊潜堤消波性能的重要因素，适当降低内部初始水压，有利于增强柔性潜堤的变形程度，进而增加波能耗散，可获得更好的消波效果；而增加浸没深度即潜深，会使得柔性水囊潜堤对溃坝波的影响程度降低，消波效果减弱。     

Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall

In this study,we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall.Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations,which involve parameters of the porous medium,were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater.The numerical solution is verified with experimental data.The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.In contrast to cases without a seawall,the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater.We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤波浪力特性试验研究

开孔工字板组合式防波堤是基于透空板式防波堤的一种新型结构形式,具有自重轻、材料省的特点。为充分了解新型开孔组合式防波堤的受力特性,基于室内水槽物理模型试验,测量新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤上的波压力与结构总力,研究相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B对该新型防波堤结构表面压力的影响,讨论了该新型防波堤所受波浪力荷载与相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B的关系。结果表明,相对波高H/d是决定新型防波堤结构表面波压力和结构总力的主要影响因素。该新型防波堤结构波浪力荷载以垂直方向受力为主,新型防波堤结构所受竖向总力远大于水平总力,最大可达到15倍。新型防波堤水平总力随相对波长L/B先增大后趋于稳定。相对波长L/B=3.617是防波堤结构水平总力变化幅度的分界点。     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

不规则波作用下垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数试验研究

垂直挡板式透空堤作为一种新型的透空式防波堤结构,通过将挡浪板垂直设置于波能最集中的水体表层来消减波浪,透浪系数是其最关键的指标。通过物理模型试验,分析不规则波作用下入射波高、波周期、挡板相对入水深度、相对堤宽、相对挡板超高、相对面板超高等因素对垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的影响规律,并在Wiegel公式的基础上拟合了垂直挡板式透空堤透浪系数的计算公式。可作为今后类似透空式防波堤结构透浪系数的近似估算,具有一定的参考价值。     

Theoretical and experimental study on wave damping inside a rubble mound breakwater

Wave decay in a rubble mound breakwater has been analysed theoretically for various types of damping functions (linear, quadratic and polynomial). The applicability of these damping functions for wave decay in the landward part of the breakwater core has been investigated in large scale model tests. The properties of the rock materials that have been used in the model tests have been determined to provide a rational basis for the damping coefficients. The analysis is based on detailed measurements of wave conditions and pressure distributions inside the breakwater. The theoretical approaches have been validated and where necessary extended by empirical means. The wave decay inside the breakwater can be reasonably approximated by the commonly applied linear damping model (resulting in exponential wave height attenuation). An extended polynomial approach provides a slightly better fit to the experimental results and reflects more clearly the governing physical processes inside the structure.     

Partial safety factor system for Tetrapod armor layer depending on shape parameter of extreme wave height distribution

During the last decade, partial safety factor systems have been adopted in the design standards of coastal structures, which are based on probabilistic theories but have a format similar to the traditional safety factor system. Tetrapod is one of the widely used breakwater armor units in the world. The previous partial safety factor system was developed based on limited wave and structure data in several locations. In this paper, a partial safety factor system for Tetrapod armor units is developed by performing reliability analysis and optimal code calibration for 116 breakwater cross-sections and wave conditions in 31 harbors in Korea. The partial safety factors associated with different ranges of the shape parameter of the Weibull extreme wave height distribution for different target probabilities of failure are proposed. For other types of extreme distributions, the skewness of the distribution should be calculated and the partial safety factors of the Weibull distribution of the same skewness could be used (the skewness of the Weibull distribution changes with the shape parameter). The developed system is applied to existing breakwaters to examine its applicability.     

Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone

In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data.     

Wave modelling in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters

This paper describes a simple method for modelling wave breaking over submerged structures, with the view of using such modelling approach in a coastal area morphodynamic modelling system.A dominant mechanism for dissipating wave energy over a submerged breakwater is depth-limited wave breaking. Available models for energy dissipation due to wave breaking are developed for beaches (gentle slopes) and require further modifications to model wave breaking over submerged breakwaters.In this paper, wave breaking is split into two parts, namely: 1) depth-limited breaking modelled using Battjes and Janssen's (1978) theory [Battjes, J.A. and Jannsen, J.P.F.M. (1978). Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of the 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Hamburg, Germany, pp. 569-587.] and 2) steepness limited breaking modelled using an integrated form of the Hasselmann's whitecapping dissipation term, commonly used in fully spectral wind–wave models. The parameter γ₂, governing the maximum wave height at incipient breaking (H_max = γ₂d) is used as calibration factor to tune numerical model results to selected laboratory measurements. It is found that γ₂ varies mainly with the relative submergence depth (ratio of submergence depth at breakwater crest to significant wave height), and a simple relationship is proposed. It is shown that the transmission coefficients obtained using this approach compare favourably with those calculated using published empirical expressions.     

Risk Assessment of Vertical Breakwaters -A Case Study in Turkey

In the reliability-risk assessment, the second order reliability index (βⅡ ) method and the Conditional Expectation Monte Carlo (CEMC) simulation are interrelated as a new Level Ⅲ approach for the analysis of the safety level of the Dalaman yacht harbor vertical wall breakwater in Turkey. The missing wave data of the Dalaman measurement station are hindcasted by use of multi-layer feed-forward neural networks with the steepest descent and conjugate gradient algorithms. The structural failure probabilities of sliding and overturning failure modes are forecasted by approximation of the failure sur-face with a second-degree polynomial of an equal curvature at the design point. in the new approach, for each randomly generated load and tide combination, the joint failure probability reflects both the occurrence probability of loading condition and the structural failure risk at the limit state. The approach can be applied to risk assessment of vertical breakwaters in short CPU durations of portable comput