Probabilistic distribution of the maximum wave height

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio.The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height.Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the     

Probabilistic Distribution of the Maximum Wave Heigh

A new method of treating maximum wave height as a random variable in reliability analysis of breakwater caissons is proposed. The maximum wave height is expressed as the significant wave height multiplied by the so-called wave height ratio. The proposed wave height ratio is a type of transfer function from the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. Under the condition of a breaking wave, the ratio is intrinsically nonlinear. Therefore, the probability density function for the variable cannot be easily defined. In this study, however, it can be derived from the relationship between the maximum and significant waves in a nonbreaking environment. Some examples are shown to validate the derived probability density function for the wave ratio parameter. By introducing the wave height ratio into reliability analysis of caisson breakwater, the maximum wave height can be used as an independent and primary random variable, which means that the risk of caisson failure during its lifetime can be evaluated realistically.     

破碎波冲击直立桩柱的大比尺试验研究

波浪破碎是海洋中最常见的现象之一,其能够对海洋中的结构物产生巨大的波浪力作用。本文在大比尺波浪水槽通过聚焦波的方法生成了极端波浪和不同破碎阶段的破碎波浪,并对其冲击桩柱过程中的点压力进行了测量,进而采用连续小波变换的方法,对桩柱上点压力的分布及大小进行了细致分析。结果表明,多次重复试验下,相比非破碎极端波浪,破碎极端波浪产生的点压力离散性更强;波浪破碎程度越大,测点位置越靠近波峰,则点压力离散程度越大;破碎波的最大点压力出现在1.2倍的最大波面附近,且其大小可达3倍的最大静水压力;基于点压力小波谱,不同破碎阶段破碎波产生冲击作用不同,对于波浪作用桩柱前波浪已经发生破碎的情况,其冲击区域更大,点压力分布更复杂;而对于桩面破碎的情况,其造成的波浪总力更大。     

大洋细结构的一种可能的机制Ⅲ.对混合过程动能耗散的估计

继第部分之后研究了惯性内波和近惯性内波由f～的作用所致的剪切不稳定引起的破碎机制。物理上,该机制很象存在由风应力所致薄表面涡旋漂流层时表面波的破碎与饱和过程。惯性内波和近惯性内波的破碎产物与小尺度湍流一起形成了混合块,它与Gregg等人(1986)的持久混合观测结果一致。依据Thorpe(1973)实验的结果作者提出了一个估计湍流动能耗散率和消衰时间的方法。结果表明,在剪切不稳定中近惯性内波在湍动耗散中起了关键作用,而惯性内波引起非常弱的湍动耗散。使用内波能量谱的标准总能量密度估计出的近惯性内波的耗散率和消衰时间与PATCHEX测量结果非常一致。文中还讨论了几个与此破碎机制有关的问题。     

波浪作用下方块石护面稳定性研究

护面是海堤和护岸的重要结构,直接抵御波浪作用,可采用人工块体、块石等,种类繁多。采用紧密排列方块石作为护面结构是一种景观性较好的型式,依据方块石厚度不同能抵御不同大小的波浪作用。干砌条石及干砌块石护面曾有一些规范给出过计算方法,但现行规范没有相关内容可供设计参考,已有计算方法的理论分析还存在不足。当波浪与斜坡堤相互作用时,方块石护面出现位移或脱落可能发生在波浪回落最低阶段、波浪破碎打击阶段及破后爬高水流作用阶段,通过研究得到了不同阶段波浪对方块石护面作用力的计算方法。在波浪回落最低阶段,考虑了护面及其下方垫层渗透性影响,通过理论分析建立了低渗透护面浮托压强计算模型,采用物模试验将计算结果与试验测量值进行了对比分析,结果表明总体趋势符合,量值接近;在波浪破碎冲击阶段,基于射流冲击作用原理,提出了波浪在斜坡面破碎冲击压强计算方法,通过试验分析了波浪破碎水深波高比与破波相似参数的关系,利用浅水波理论计算了波浪破碎冲击水流流速;在爬高水流作用阶段,提出了水流引起的方块石护面垂直浮托力及水平拖曳力的计算方法,通过试验结果拟合了浮托力系数和拖曳力系数,验证了水流作用下护面的受力特征。最后,针对方块...     

Experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action

The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under strong wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, −0.5g, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for discriminating breaking waves under a strong wind action.     

波群内单个波的波陡分布与波破碎

对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是,波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央,这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率;进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为,波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...     

海浪的条件特征周期

在海浪波面高度为正态分布的假定下,导出一种以给定波高为条件的条件周期概率密度函数.与风浪槽中测量数据比较,结果表明,在窄谱情况下此概率密度函数与实验室风浪的实际符合良好.根据此密度函数定义了3种条件特征周期,并导出它们与平均周期的关系式.根据这些关系对有关海洋工程上的一些问题作了解释和讨论.     

浅水破碎波对直立圆柱作用力的试验研究

分析了桩柱破波力的构成特性,认为破碎波与桩柱作用过程中在不完全绕流区将出现由于附连质量迅速变化引起的冲击力和柱前后波面高度差引起的附加压差力;影响破碎波对直立圆柱作用力的因素应该包括确定破波特性的水底坡度i、入射深水波陡H_0/L_0及代表圆柱对破波作用影响的相对柱径D/H_0。通过从i=1/100到1/15五种底坡上桩柱破波力的系统试验,探索了桩柱破波力的作用特性,归纳了计算桩柱破波力的经验公式。     

Classification and Comparison of Wave Impact Modes on Semi-Submersibles

Semi-submersibles for offshore oil exploration and exploitation often suffer from severe wave impacts in extreme ocean environments.Owing to the complex wave interactions among structural components of semi-submersibles,in-depth analyses on the characteristics of wave impact events are of significance for both industry and academia.An experimental study was carried out to investigate the local wave impact loads on a semi-submersible,with focus on understanding the wave impacts by identifying typical impact modes.Quantitative criteria are proposed to classify major wave impacts on the semi-submersible into six modes and two types.The results show that the classification is reasonable and provides valuable information for studying wave impacts on semi-submersibles.The incident wave characteristics at the fore column of the semi-submersible have important influence on the wave impact mode.The fore-column dominating wave impacts exert the most intense loads on the fore column and feature well-developed breaking waves or slightly breaking waves at the fore column.However,the aft-column dominating wave impacts exert the most intense loads on the aft column or the deck bottom and feature non-breaking waves at the fore column.Energy loss during the fore-column impact weakens the impact severity on the aft column in the fore-column dominating wave impacts.The shoaling effect of the submerged pontoon and different motion configurations of the platform result in higher occurrence rate of the aft-column dominating wave impacts.Different impact modes are also distinguished by different spatial distributions of wave impact loads.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves

Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope.     

Simulation of Random Waves and Associated Laminar Bottom Shear Stresses

This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.     

Intermittency of wind wave group breaking

Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave.     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

An analytically derived whitecap coverage model

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三维极限波的产生方法及特性

极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议.     

Parametric modelling of joint probability density distributions for steepness and asymmetry in deep water waves

Traditional wave steepness s = H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves uniquely. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Parametric models for joint probability density distributions for deep water waves are presented. The joint distributions are for crest front steepness-wave height, vertical asymmetry factor-wave height, total wave steepness-wave height and wave height-wave period. The parametric models are estimated from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from measurements at sea on the Norwegian continental shelf. The results of the analysis presented here can be used in the estimation of the probabilities of occurrence of steep asymmetric waves and breaking waves in deep water. Thus the results are useful for the practical naval architect and ocean engineer who are considering unusual events in the sea, the associated accidents or responses and the probability of occurrence of such events.     

Impact pressure of breaking waves on vertical and sloping walls

Laboratory tests are conducted to measure the impact pressures of breaking waves on vertical, 5° forward, and 5, 10, 20, 30, and 45° backward sloping walls. The base structure of the wall has a foreshore slope of . Regular waves are used throughout the experiments for all wall angles. The maximum impact pressures on the wall are shown to satisfy the log-normal probability distribution. It is found from the present experiments that the impact pressures and resulting forces on sloping walls can be greater than those on a vertical wall. On the seven different walls tested, the maximum impact pressures occur most frequently slightly below the still-water level. The pattern of the impact pressure history does not change with the slope of the wall, and as the probability of maximum impact pressure decreases, the pressures around the peak pressure region of the impact pressure histories remain longer.     

Wave measurements by pressure transducers using artificial neural networks

Underwater ultrasonic acoustic transducers are frequently used in ocean wave measurements as they measure surface level using acoustic waves. However, their effectiveness can be severely affected in rough sea conditions, when bubbles generated by breaking waves interfere with their acoustic signals. When the seas are rough, one therefore often has to rely on a pressure transducer, which is generally used as a back-up for the acoustic wave gauge. A pressure transfer function is then used to obtain the surface wave information. Alternatively, the present study employed an artificial neural network to convert the pressure signal into significant wave height, significant wave period, maximum wave height, and spectral peakedness parameter using data obtained from various water depths. The results showed that, for water depths greater than 20 m, the wave parameters obtained from the artificial neural network were significantly closer to those obtained by the acoustic measurements than those obtained by using a linear pressure transfer function. Moreover, for a given water depth, the wave heights estimated by the network model from pressure data were not as good as those estimated by linear wave theory for large wave heights (above a 4 m significant wave height in this study). This can be improved if the training data set has more records with large wave heights.