| 波群内单个波的波陡分布与波破碎 |
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| 引用本文： | 高志一,文 凡,李 洁.波群内单个波的波陡分布与波破碎[J].海洋科学,2011,35(9):96-106. |
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| 作者姓名： | 高志一 文 凡 李 洁 |
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| 作者单位： | 1. 国家海洋环境预报中心海洋灾害预警报技术重点实验室,北京,100081
2. 中国海洋大学物理海洋实验室,山东青岛,266003 |
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| 基金项目： | 教育部新世纪人才支持计划(NCET-08-0509); 国家自然科学基金(40576007) |
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| 摘 要： | 对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是，波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央，这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率；进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为，波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...
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| 关 键 词： | 波群 波陡 波破碎 |
| 收稿时间： | 2010/3/23 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 2011/7/15 0:00:00 |
The steepness distributions and break of individual waves in wave groups |
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| GAO Zhi-yi,WEN Fan,LI Jie.The steepness distributions and break of individual waves in wave groups[J].Marine Sciences,2011,35(9):96-106. |
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| Authors: | GAO Zhi-yi WEN Fan LI Jie |
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| Institution: | GAO Zhi-yi1,WEN Fan2,LI Jie1(1.Key Laboratory of Research on Marine Hazards Forecasting,National Marine Environmental Forecasting Center,Beijing 100081,China,2.Key Laboratory of Physical Oceanography of Ministry of Education,Institute of Physical Oceanography,Ocean University of China,Qingdao 266003,China) |
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| Abstract: | In this paper, the steepness distributions and breaking of individual waves in wave groups have been studied. The maximum amplitude of individual waves occurs in the front of a wave group rather than in the middle. Such asymmetry of a wave group structure makes it more probable that larger steepness occurs on the individual waves in the front of the wave group than those in the rear. In other words, the average steepness of the individual waves at the beginning of a wave group is larger, resulting in higher probability that the individual waves in the front of the wave group break according to the statistics of wave breaking (the breaking probability of the individual waves in the front of a wave group is about four times of that in the rear of the wave group). Since wave breaking plays very important role in wind wave growth, these results are important for further study of wind wave. |
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| Keywords: | wave group wave steepness wave breaking |
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