手提式捕沙器在激浪带定点输沙率测量中的应用

本文叙述一种手提式捕沙器的研制及应用。目前,它的使用限于波高约小于1米的激浪带,并成功地应用于大西洋海岸。在该海岸布设有大约150个捕沙器,采得了500多个沙样,发现所得输沙率垂向分布相当一致。本文评价了现有测量沿岸输沙率的方法,介绍了捕沙器的现场试验结果。可以断言,这种捕沙器提供了激浪带进行短期定点测量输沙率的唯一实用方法。     

波浪沿岸输沙率的计算公式

在沙质海岸中,沿岸输沙率的正确估算,对于港口和海岸工程的建设,都有着重要的意义。自丹麦学者彼得逊(Munch Petersen 1933)提出第一个沿岸输沙率计算公式以来,已近半个世纪,但因为沿岸输沙牵涉到海洋动力要素与海岸沉积物(泥沙)的相互作用问题,是较为复杂的海-岩相关现象,现场同步观测又较为困难,尽管各国学者从不同角度己提出了几十个不同的计算公式,有的且已列入手册、规范,但都有一定的限制,至今还没有公认的“公”式。美国海岸研究中心的经验表明,在缺乏现场实测资料的情况下,应用波浪能流法推算沿岸输沙率是较为切实可行的。     

福建湄洲岛对台客运码头淤积分析

以岸滩固定剖面观测、沉积物搬运趋势模型、沙粒捕沙器现场观测为基础,分析造成湄洲岛台客运码头淤积的主要原因。分析结果表明,由于风、浪、流共同作用,码头建成后,在其前缘形成一个淤积区,致使码头的使用受到影响。     

黄河三角洲埕北海域底质沉积物粒度特征及泥沙输运分析

通过黄河三角洲埕北海域表层沉积物的粒度资料、实测潮流数据以及50 a一遇的波浪要素,分析了埕北海域表层沉积物的分布类型以及粒度参数特征,并计算了表层沉积物的临界起动应力、日平均单宽输沙通量以及波流共同作用下的单宽推移质输沙率。结果表明:研究区表层沉积物主要是粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粉砂和泥四种,分选中等偏差,近对称到正偏,中等尖锐到尖锐峰态;对大潮期间埕北海域潮流底应力和表层沉积物的临界起动应力的计算说明潮流在大部分区域具有起动和输运泥沙的作用;秋季潮流作用下的日平均单宽输沙通量均值为372.32 kg/（m·d）,方向为涨潮流向。利用贝克尔（Bijker）和经典的Van Rijn公式计算出的50 a一遇的波流共同作用下单宽推移质日平均净输沙率结果近似相等。     

应用现场实测波浪资料直接计算沿岸输沙率

本文应用波能流守恒法则，导得可直接应用现场实测波浪资料计算沿岸输沙率关系式。通过两个实例计算，说明计算值与实际沿岸输沙率一致。     

海南日月湾海域表层沉积物分布特征与运移趋势

海南日月湾是典型的岬角弧形海湾,海岸类型多样,底质粒级较粗。基于实测的海流、表层沉积物粒度数据,分析了海南日月湾海域表层沉积物的分布特征,计算了泥沙起动流速与表层沉积物输运通量,探讨了表层沉积物运移趋势。结果表明,研究区表层沉积物颗粒较粗,整体以含砾砂为主,其次为砾质砂、砂、砂质砾和粉砂质砂,呈圆斑状零星分布;沉积物粒级组分从最细的黏土到最粗的砾均有分布,细颗粒主要分布于研究区东侧和西侧近岸海域,粗颗粒呈NS向条带状分布于研究区中南部海域,呈现中部分选差、周边分选好的特征;研究区泥沙起动流速在近岸自东北向西南递增,在远岸自东北向西南先减小后增大,粒径对泥沙起动流速的影响大于水深,靠近分界洲岛海域,单纯的潮流作用只能使部分颗粒发生再悬浮,表层沉积物平均日净输运通量介于0.04～3.7 kg m^-1 d^-1,净输沙方向总体呈SW向,平均日净输运通量在东北侧海域明显高于西南侧海域,涨潮段单宽输沙率略大于落潮段单宽输沙率(R4站位除外),涨、落潮段输沙方向基本一致。     

闽粤交界处大埕湾海域表层沉积物分布运移特征及沉积动力环境分区

大埕湾位于闽粤交界处,是典型的岬角弧形开放型海湾,本文基于实测的海流、表层沉积物数据,分析了大埕湾海域表层沉积物的分布特征,计算了再悬浮通量与输运通量,结合粒径趋势分析方法探讨了表层沉积物运移趋势,利用Flemming三角图示法对沉积动力环境进行分区并分析了泥沙输运的主要控制因素。结果表明,研究区表层沉积物有砂质粉砂、粉砂、含砾泥和泥4种类型,沉积物颗粒较细,整体以粉砂和泥为主,砂质粉砂和含砾泥呈圆斑状零星分布;粒级组分含量和粒度参数平面分布分区明显,黏土组分、分选系数和偏态值呈现“东北小西南大”的特点,粉砂组分和峰态值则表现出相反趋势。观测期间表层沉积物日再悬浮量为41.86kg/m2,日净输运通量40.36kg/m,逐时再悬浮通量值和单宽输沙率大小与潮流流速变化相关性较好,且涨潮段大于落潮段,净输沙指向涨潮方向,由西南向东北方向输沙。研究区沉积动力环境可划分为DⅡ、EⅡ和EⅢ3个分区,沉积物搬运以悬移为主,潮流和波浪是研究区泥沙起动及输运的主要动力,泥沙来源主要有近岸侵蚀供沙、东西两侧海域输沙以及少量短源季节性陆源碎屑补给3方面。     

东海舟山群岛海域表层沉积物运移特性

通过潮流和表层沉积物粒度参数等实测资料,对舟山群岛海域表层沉积物的运移趋势、净输运通量以及起动流速进行了初步分析.结果表明,舟山群岛对研究区表层沉积物分布影响明显;舟山群岛海域表层沉积物整体由湾口向外海输运,平均日单宽输沙通量由杭州湾内向外海迅速减小;从杭州湾向外海,泥沙起动越来越难,单纯潮流对表层沉积物再悬浮作用相对较弱.     

沙质海岸强浪作用下沿岸输沙问题研究

在沙质海岸上修建导流堤、丁坝等会引起局部海域水沙动力条件的改变和海床冲淤调整,因此准确预测沿岸输沙率是海岸工程建设前进行优化设计的基础条件之一.首先构建了刻画高强度推移质输沙过程中固-液混合体运动的理论模型,通过寻求模型的特解并推导成1D沿岸输沙率公式.该公式适宜计算强浪作用下的推移质输沙率,已得到了大型波浪水槽、往复流水道和海滩现场实测输沙率资料的良好验证.通过与物理模型试验实测输沙量结果的比较,进一步表明该公式能够较好地预测沙质海岸在寒潮大风浪(或台风浪)作用下的高强度输沙量(骤淤量).     

基于解析解的长江口南港悬沙侧向捕集特征分析

为探讨长江口南港的水动力结构及悬沙侧向输运特征,本文从解析解的角度构建了潮汐河口水沙输运数学模型,并将其应用到长江口南港某横断面上。南港水动力主控于半日潮流,余流主要由陆相径流及本地非线性对流项驱动,悬沙分布上北侧副槽远大于南侧主槽,水沙分布的计算结果与实测结果在结构上基本一致。通过输沙函数进一步分析表明,潮流输沙和余流输沙是南港侧向输沙函数的两个主要部分。南港中强劲径流削弱了涨潮流,增强了落潮流,使得向河槽南侧的涨潮流输沙小于向河槽北侧的落潮流输沙,潮流输沙指向河槽北侧。径流驱动的南港侧向余流在涨潮流方向上为一逆时针环流结构,余流输沙指向河槽北侧。扩散输沙指向南侧主槽,因其总是指向悬沙浓度梯度的负方向。在各输沙因子的综合作用下,南港中大量悬沙捕集于河槽北侧,使得河槽北部底层潮平均含沙量值达到最大值。     

旌式泥沙捕获器的研制和施测

介绍了旌式泥沙捕获器的研制，以及该仪器在破波带泥沙垂直分布、破波带泥沙搬运机制和海岸带泥沙输运速率和通量研究中的应用；详细描述了旌式泥沙捕获器在破波带泥沙观测中的安装和施测要点。     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

Study on Sound-Speed Dispersion in A Sandy Sediment at Frequency Ranges of 0.5-3 kHz and 90-170 kHz

In order to study the properties of sound-speed dispersion in a sandy sediment, the sound speed was measured both at high frequency (90-170 kHz) and low frequency (0.5-3 kHz) in laboratory environments. At high frequency, a sampling measurement was conducted with boiled and uncooked sand samples collected from the bottom of a large water tank. The sound speed was directly obtained through transmission measurement using single source and single hydrophone. At low frequency, an in situ measurement was conducted in the water tank, where the sandy sediment had been homogeneously paved at the bottom for a long time. The sound speed was indirectly inverted according to the traveling time of signals received by three buried hydrophones in the sandy sediment and the geometry in experiment. The results show that the mean sound speed is approximate 1710-1713 m/s with a weak positive gradient in the sand sample after being boiled (as a method to eliminate bubbles as much as possible) at high frequency, which agrees well with the predictions of Biot theory, the effective density fluid model (EDFM) and Buckingham''s theory. However, the sound speed in the uncooked sandy sediment obviously decreases (about 80%) both at high frequency and low frequency due to plenty of bubbles in existence. And the sound-speed dispersion performs a weak negative gradient at high frequency. Finally, a water-unsaturated Biot model is presented for trying to explain the decrease of sound speed in the sandy sediment with plenty of bubbles.     

潮流场对渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的控制作用

运用二维潮流数学模型，模拟了渤、黄、东海陆架的M2潮汐、潮流。结果表明，渤、黄、东海陆架的潮流有强弱之分以及往复流和旋转汉之别。在此基础上，计算了8种粒径沙的湖平均悬移输沙率、潮平均推移输沙以及相应的输沙率散度。根据输沙率散度的正负，划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区。根据不同粒径泥沙输沙率散度的相对大小，确定出海底的主要底质类型为砂质沉积、粉砂质泥沉积和以粉砂为主的混合沉积。计算结果表明，海底3种主要底负类型的分布格局与海底的冲淤格局以及与输沙率矢量的发散和聚合状况基本一致。在渤、黄、东海陆架，沙脊主要在强往复流区形成，沙席主要在强或较强的旋转流区形成，泥质沉积主要在弱潮流区形成。砂质沉积、泥质沉积以及混合沉积这3种主要底质类型并非孤立存在，而是受渤、黄、东海陆架潮流场控制而形成的一个完整的潮流沉积体系。渤、黄、东海陆架的砂质沉积与泥质沉积并非残留沉积，而是潮流沉积。在没有冷涡的情况下，黄、东海陆架的典型泥质沉积在弱潮流环境中同样可以形成，因此，认为冷涡并非黄、东海陆架典型泥质沉积形成的必要条件。     

黄河三角洲埕岛海域底质特征与泥沙净输运研究

本文通过对黄河三角洲埕岛海域146个表层样的粒度分析,表明该区有5种沉积物类型,以砂质粉砂为主体,呈斑块状分布,极细砂与粗粉砂是沉积物的主要粒级,普遍分选差。运用"粒径趋势"分析的方法,分析探讨了埕岛海域表层沉积物净输运趋势。研究区的沉积物的净输运趋势大致以12 m水深为界,深水区沉积物的净输运趋势向岸,12 m以浅海域的沉积物具有离岸的净输运趋势,说明深水区沉积物受冬季风浪作用向岸运移作用显著,12 m以浅海域的沉积物受夏季风浪作用离岸运移作用显著,沉积物运移的季节变化已成为研究区海域沉积物净运移的主要控制因素。     

Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action

Sorting of sediment on a beach under wave action takes several forms. Stratified layers of finer and coarser sediment, which depend on wave climate, grain size and beach slope are formed. This complex problem can be simplified by defining the cross-shore and longshore sorting according to the angle between the breaking wave and the coast. In the present study, longshore distribution of sediment as well as corresponding beach profiles was measured in a wave basin. Three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were performed with regular waves. Eighteen sets of experiments performed in longshore sorting mechanism using two different sand beds. The sorting of the bed material and the formation of armour coats along the beach were defined by grain size distributions and dimensionless parameters for sandy beaches.The rate of sediment transport with grain size sorting was measured in a wave basin. A method introduced sorting process was presented in this study. The sediment rate based on sorting mechanism was also discussed with known methods. It has been found that the non-uniformity of the grain size and hence sorting of the beaches play a very important role in the sand transport due to wave motion in a similar way to the case of steady flow in alluvial channels.     

The role of bore collapse and local shear stresses on the spatial distribution of sediment load in the uprush of an intermediate-state beach

Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role.     

Seismic expressions of deep-shelf depositional and erosional morphologies,Miocene Utsira formation,North Sea Basin

The Middle–Late Miocene Utsira Formation of the North Sea Basin contains a fully preserved, regional marine sand deposit that records a stable paleogeographic setting of sand transport and accumulation within a deep, epeiric seaway which persisted for >8 Ma. The sediment dispersal system was defined by (1) input through a marginal prograding strandplain platform, coast-to-basin bypass, transport along a narrow strait, and accumulation in strait-mouth shoal complexes within a shelf sea; (2) a high-energy marine regime; (3) very low time-averaged rates of sediment supply and accumulation; and (4) consequent high sediment reworking ratio. Sand distribution and stratal architectures reflect regional along-strike sediment transport and local to sub-regional landward sediment transport. Plume-shaped, south-building, submarine sand shoals that formed along the recurved arc of the strandplain margin nourished the shoal system. Very low-angle sigmoid clinoforms and down-stepping, aggradational top sets are distinctive architectures of these strike-fed sand bodies. The combination of strong marine currents and slow but long-lived sand supply from the Shetland strandplain created regional, sandy shelf shoal depositional systems that individually covered 3,500 to 6,000 km² of the basin floor. Defining attributes of the shelf shoal systems include their location within the basin axis, abundance of autochthonous sediment, and sandy marine facies composition. Diagnostic depositional architectures include the along-strike-dipping sigmoidal clinoforms, poly-directional low-angle accretionary bedding at both regional and local scales, and mounded depositional topography. Erosional features include regional hummocky, low-relief shelf deflation surfaces, broad, elongate scours and sub-circular scour pits.