崇明岛东部潮滩沉积

崇明岛东部滩地受潮汐作用明显,波浪作用弱。滩地的淤涨速度快。沉积物以粉砂为主,自潮上带到潮下带,粒度增大,分选变好。潮上带泥裂多,具有水平层理。潮间带,潮下带以小水流波痕为主,小波痕交错层理发育。潮间上部具有浪成波痕、干扰波痕、流痕,波状、脉状、透镜状层理主要出现在该部位。波痕等表面构造随大、小潮变化。潮沟局限于潮上带和潮间带上部,边滩发育,有两种形态不同于河流沉积的点坝,沉积物大都呈双众数分布。     

基于卫星测高数据的海洋中尺度涡流动态特征检测

为了最终实现对海洋中尺度涡流(简称中尺度涡)的自动采样,首先应该发展中尺度涡动态特征识别技术。本文基于SLA(Sea Level Anomaly)数据,实现了对中尺度涡动态特征的检测算法。主要内容是制定了一个判别相邻两组SLA数据中的涡流,是否为同一涡流子在不同时刻的状态的标准,即判别下一时刻SLA数据中是否存在涡流是由上一时刻确定的被检测涡流演化而来的。通过确定这种进化关系,可以得到被检测涡流的一系列动态状态信息,例如:面积变化速率、中心移动情况以及其他情况。本算法的计算量不大,从而可以应用到实时涡流跟踪的环境中。值得注意的是,本文中的算法不仅仅局限于应用SLA数据,SSH(Sea Surface Height)等大部分反映海洋高度的数据也可以使用。     

东海扬子浅滩砂质底形研究

根据 198 0至 2 0 0 0年间数次专项调查获得的高分辨率地球物理、沉积学等资料 ,并结合水动力环境的分析 ,探讨了东海扬子浅滩砂质底形的成因、形态特征、活动性以及发育的地层年代。研究表明 ,扬子浅滩砂质海底广泛发育沙波地貌 ,按其发育规模可以分为沙波和大型波痕 2类 ,大型波痕按其形态又可分为直线形、弯曲形和格子形 3种。平坦宽阔的地形、丰富的中细砂物源以及较强的潮流和风暴浪流是沙波地貌发育的有利环境条件。柱状岩芯分析和年代测定表明 ,发育沙波地貌的物质的沉积始于冰消期晚期 ,即 10～ 11KaB .P ,全新世中、晚期该区继续接受砂质沉积。扬子浅滩发育的沙波地貌与现今的动力环境相适应 ,仍处于发育和运移状态。     

控制流水波痕的外部地质作用

流水波痕可以广泛发育在不同的海、陆相环境中。对流水波痕的研究不能仅仅注意沉积作用方面，更要注意作用于流水波痕的外部条件。     

深海大型沉积物波的研究现状与展望

20世纪60年代以来,随着深海钻探(DSDP)和大洋钻探项目(ODP)的成功实施,在现代深海海底发现了一种大面积分布的大型沉积物波,这从根本上改变了人们对波痕是浅水标志的认识.     

基于正交试验的水下航行器凸体涡流噪声优化

凸体作为水下航行器表面的一种常见附体结构,其产生的涡流噪声对搭载在水下航行器上的声学仪器的信号精度有非常重要的影响。在马赫数为0.004 8条件下,采用LES-Lighthill等效声源法对三维方形凸体的流场及声场进行仿真,形象地再现了凸体周围涡旋运动变化规律,分析了涡流流动机制及辐射噪声特征。通过正交试验设计,以噪声最小为目标,优化了三维方形凸体结构参数。研究成果为水下航行器附体结构的设计提供了依据。     

南海北部中尺度涡流预报及应用

南海北部海域是南海中尺度涡的高发区,该海区的多尺度动力过程及相互作用经常对海上工程安全造成重大影响。针对“FPSO-119”海洋工程施工船在2021年5月8日20时左右遇到“怪流”后瞬时大幅度失位现象,在排除内波等其他海洋现象与外因影响的前提下,利用海表面高度异常（SLA）数据、HYCOM模式数据以及现场实测数据,分析认为“怪流”是施工海域内中尺度涡与潮流正向叠加所导致。在此基础上,结合TPXO潮流预报数据,提出了一种将中尺度涡流与潮流矢量叠加的涡流预报方法,并通过FVCOM数值预报,对施工海域的中尺度涡流进行预报。经过与现场实测数据的后报检验,该方法能够反映施工海域内涡流在未来2 d内的主要运动特征,可作为海上工程应对“怪流”的重要参考,在工程应用中结合内波流、风海流等其他信息综合考虑分析,可更好地为海洋工程和船舶航行等提供安全保障。     

南海北部上升流的初步探讨

本文从海面水温场和水温垂直分布的统计特征,阐述了南海北部存在季节性的上升流。该上升流主要出现在汕头、琼南沿岸近海和湛江港外附近,其成因可能是由夏车西南风使水体辐散及夏季海水涡流的辐散所引起的。     

涡流发生器对潮流能水轮机翼型水动力学特性影响的数值模拟

为了改善潮流能水轮机叶片表面流动分离问题,提高其升阻比,本文通过在潮流能水轮机叶片表面加装涡流发生器,来研究涡流发生器对潮流能水轮机水动力学性能的影响。本文以NACA4418翼型为研究对象,分别建立了含VGs和不含VGs的三维模型,利用CFD方法研究了VGs的高度、长度以及相邻一对VGs之间的间距等多个方面对该翼型性能的影响。结果表明:VGs可以有效地提高翼型的最大升力系数;相邻VGs间距的增加对流动分离的抑制有积极影响。此外,通过对尾迹区流线和旋涡的分析,进一步揭示了尾迹区的流场特征。     

人工船礁铺设模式优选方法研究

以人工船礁水动力学特征及优化组合方式为主要研究内容,采用数值研究的方法,探讨了人工船礁的不同组合及其规模大小对于形成上升流与背涡流的效果、促进海水的上下混合与交换的影响,并在此基础上建立了人工船礁铺设方式优选模式。结果表明,从船礁的相对效果看,铺设模式以大型单体船礁为最佳;不同类型船礁组合产生的最大上升流流速为来流速度的0．05—0．15倍;随来流速度的增加,产生的上升流及背涡流影响效果显著增强,在不同来流速度下,上升流影响范围与礁宽之比为1．1—5．0,流影高度与礁高之比为1．4—2．0,背涡流流影长度与礁高之比为4．5—13．0;不同礁体及其组合对“冲淤”影响差异较大,船礁因流线型形状,其“冲淤”影响较小。文中建立的人工船礁铺设方式优选模式,可为人工船礁水槽试验和现场铺设提供理论依据。     

Sand ripples generated by regular oscillatory flow

The prediction of ripple geometry is a necessary precursor to the prediction of sand transport under waves for ripple regime conditions. The paper begins with a comparison of four existing methods for predicting the geometry of sand ripples generated by oscillatory flow. The comparison points to substantial differences between ripple dimensions predicted by the methods, especially for field-scale conditions. Ripple geometry experiments carried out in a large oscillatory flow tunnel are then described. The experiments involved a range of sand sizes and sinusoidal and asymmetric flows with periods and velocities typical of field conditions. Comparison of measured and predicted ripple geometries leads to the recommendation that the method of Mogridge, Davies and Willis be used to predict ripple geometry for field-scale oscillatory flows. The Nielsen method yields good predictions of ripple length, but the rapid fall-off in ripple steepness predicted by the Nielsen method at high mobility number is not supported by the measurements. The lengths and heights of symmetric ripples produced by sinusoidal flows are found to be similar to the lengths and heights of asymmetric ripples produced by “equivalent” asymmetric flows. Three-dimensional ripples occur with fine sand in long-period flows typical of field conditions. The dimensions of these ripples cannot be predicted using methods developed for two-dimensional ripples. Previously suggested criteria for predicting the occurrence of three-dimensional ripples fail when tested against a wide range of flow and sand conditions. The occurrence of three-dimensional ripples and the effects of ripple and flow history on ripple geometry require further research.     

The dimensions of sand ripples in full-scale oscillatory flows

New large-scale experiments have been carried out in two oscillatory flow tunnels to study ripple regime sand suspension and net sand transport processes in full-scale oscillatory flows. The paper focuses on ripple dimensions and the new data are combined with existing data to make a large dataset of ripple heights and lengths for flows with field-scale amplitudes and periods. A feature of the new experiments is a focus on the effect of flow irregularity. The combined dataset is analysed to examine the range of hydraulic conditions under which oscillatory flow ripples occur, to examine the effects of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions and to test and improve existing methods for predicting ripple dimensions.The following are the main conclusions. (1) The highest velocities in a flow time-series play an important role in determining the type of bedform occurring in oscillatory flow. Bedform regime is well characterised by mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth peak velocities in the case of irregular flow. (2) For field-scale flows, sand size is the primary factor determining whether equilibrium ripples will be 2D or 3D. 2D ripples occur when the sand D₅₀ ≥ 0.30 mm and 3D ripples occur when D₅₀ ≤ 0.22 mm (except when the flow orbital diameter is low). (3) Ripple type (2D or 3D) is the same for regular and irregular flows and ripple dimensions produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows follow a similar functional dependence on mobility number, with mobility number based on maximum velocity in the case of regular flow and based on the mean of the highest one tenth velocities in the case of irregular flow. For much of the ripple regime, ripple dimensions have weak dependency on mobility number and ripple dimensions are similar for regular and irregular flows with the same flow orbital amplitude. However, differences in ripples produced by equivalent regular and irregular flows become significant at the high mobility end of the ripple regime. (4) Ripple dimensions predicted using the Wiberg and Harris formulae are in poor agreement with measured ripple dimensions from the large-scale experiments. Predictions based on the Mogridge et al. and the Nielsen formulae show better overall agreement with the data but also show systematic differences in cases of 3D ripples and ripples generated by irregular flows. (5) Based on the combined large-scale data, modifications to the Nielsen ripple dimension equations are proposed for the heights and lengths of 2D ripples. The same equations apply to regular and irregular flows, but with mobility number appropriately defined. 3D ripples are generally smaller than 2D ripples and estimates of 3D ripple height and length may be obtained by applying multipliers of 0.55 and 0.73 respectively to the 2D formulae. The proposed modified Nielsen formulae provide an improved fit to the large-scale data, accounting for flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

Tidal-cycle changes in oscillation ripples on the inner part of an estuarine sand flat

Oscillation ripples form on subaqueous sand beds when wave-generated, near-bottom water motions are strong enough to move sand grains. The threshold of grain motion is the lower bound of the regime of oscillation ripples and the onset of sheet flow is the upper bound. Based on the relation between ripple spacing and orbital diameter, three types of symmetrical ripples occur within the ripple regime. In the lower part of the ripple regime (orbital ripples), spacing is proportional to orbital diameter; in the upper part (anorbital ripples) spacing is independent of orbital diameter. Between these regions occurs a transitional region (suborbital ripples).

Oscillation ripples develop on a sandy tidal flat in Willapa Bay, Washington, as a result of waves traversing the area when it is submerged. Because wave energy is usually low within the bay, the ripples are primarily orbital in type. This means that their spacing should respond in a systematic way to changes in wave conditions. During the high-water parts of some tidal cycles, ripples near the beach decrease in spacing during the latter stage of the ebb tide while ripples farther offshore do not change. Observations made over several tidal cycles show that the zone of active ripples shifts on- or offshore in response to different wave conditions.

Detailed bed profiles and current measurements taken during the high-water part of spring tides show the manner in which the oscillation ripples change with changes in orbital diameter. Changes in ripple spacing at the study site could be correlated with changes in orbital diameter in the manner suggested by the criterion for orbital ripples. However, there appeared to be a lag time between a decrease in orbital diameter and the corresponding decrease in ripple spacing. Absence of change during a tidal cycle could be attributed to orbital velocities below the threshold for grain motion that negated the effects of changes in orbital diameter.

Because changes in sand-flat ripples depend both upon changes in orbital diameter and upon the magnitude of the orbital velocity, exposed ripples were not necessarily produced during the preceding high tide. In fact, some ripples may have been just produced, while others, farther offshore, may have been produced an unknown number of tides earlier. Therefore, when interpreting past wave conditions over tidal flats from low-tide ripples, one must remember that wave periods have to be short enough to produce velocities greater than the threshold velocity for the orbital diameters calculated from the observed ripple spacings.     

Ripples in intertidal mud—a conceptual explanation

On protected mudflats and along sheltered tidal channel margins, wave- and current-generated ripples are frequently observed on surficial and subsurface mud beds, although such bedforms are generally not thought to occur in cohesive sediments. In this paper, examples of such ripple marks in the German Wadden Sea (back-barrier tidal flats of Spiekeroog island) and also along the west coast of Korea (Baeksu tidal flats) are documented and analyzed. The mud ripples are 5–8 cm in spacing and 0.3–0.8 cm in height, and are composed of slightly sandy to virtually pure mud (80–98% mud content). For the Spiekeroog study area, a comparison of in situ particle-size measurements of suspended matter and of dispersed mud collected from the ripples shows that the former consists of low-density flocs which are considerably larger than the constituent grains of the latter. To assess local wave effects, near-bed orbital velocities and orbital diameters were calculated on the basis of standard wave theory using estimated wave parameters at the time of the study (June 2004) as well as wave data recorded nearby within the back-barrier tidal basin. The relationships between grain size, morphometric ripple parameters, and the near-bed orbital diameter show the wave-generated mud ripples to be of the orbital post-vortex type. It is demonstrated that only short-period shoaling (intermediate water depth) waves with periods of 1.5–2.5 s and heights of 0.1–0.5 m are able to generate and maintain such ripples. Corresponding near-bed orbital velocities range from 8–32 cm s^–1 and near-bed orbital diameters from 6.25–10 cm. It can be anticipated that increased current shear and turbulence associated with higher and longer waves prevent ripple formation due to the resuspension of settled mud, and the breakdown of suspended flocs and aggregates into smaller particles which then tend to remain in suspension. The most plausible explanation for the formation of the mud ripples is that mud flocs and aggregates deposited from suspension around high-water slack tide under moderate weather conditions initially respond as single (non-cohesive) particles which are hydraulically equivalent to ambient very fine sands. During exposure at low tide, gradual loss of water transforms the rippled mud into increasingly more cohesive mud drapes which are more resistant to erosion. Unless destroyed during high-energy events, the mud ripples may remain intact long enough to become buried and thereby preserved. Indeed, occasional but persistent observations of ripples in sub-Recent to ancient mudrocks document their preservation potential.     

Numerical simulation of oscillatory flows over a rippled bed by immersed boundary method

In this paper, a well-developed numerical model based on the immersed boundary (IB) method is used to study oscillatory flows over a bed with large-amplitude ripples in a systematic manner. The work shows that the complex flow over the rippled bed can be numerically dealt with in Cartesian coordinate by the IB method and that the IB method is able to provide main features of the flows near the ripples. An accurate simulation of vortices generation as a result of flow separation at the rippled bed is obtained. It is found that the oscillatory flows start to separate during the flow deceleration when the Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number is small. The steady streaming for various ripple steepness is simulated and the criterion for separating the single and double structure streaming is also discussed. Moreover, a new type of steady streaming which consists of a pair of embedded recirculations in the vicinity of the ripple trough is obtained for relatively steep ripples in this work. The numerical results, including the steady streaming in particular, may be helpful to improve the understanding of the sediment transport and the seabed evolution with natural ripples under sea waves.     

Utilizing High-Frequency Acoustic Backscatter to Estimate Bottom Sand Ripple Parameters

In some applications of underwater acoustics, it is important to know the ripple structure on shallow-water sediments. For example, the prediction of buried target detection via sound scattering by ripples depends critically on the ripple height and spatial wavelength. Another example is the study of sediment transport, where knowing the ripple structure and its evolution over time helps to understand the forcing on the bottom and the response of sediments. Here, backscatter data from a 300-kHz system are used to show that ripple wavelength and height can be estimated from backscatter images via a simple inversion formula. The inversion results are consistent with in situ measurements of the ripple field using an independent measurement system. Motivated by the backscatter data, we have developed a time-domain numerical model to simulate scattering of high-frequency sound by a ripple field. This model treats small-scale scatterers as Lambertian scatterers distributed randomly on the large-scale ripple field. Numerical simulations are conducted to investigate the conditions under which remote sensing of bottom ripple heights, wavelength, and its power spectrum is possible.      

波浪-海流-微地形耦合的沉积动力模式建立及应用

沙纹微地形普遍存在于海底,沙纹的消长能改变底部应力进而影响泥沙的运移。以往研究较多侧重于波致沙纹,并已应用于波浪模式的底摩擦计算,而较少考虑波流联合效应产生的沙纹,也未将其应用于综合的水动力模式和沉积物输运模式。本文在POM水动力模式中嵌入新南威尔士大学泥沙模式,通过耦合波流共同作用的微地形模型与波流相互作用底边界层模型,发展了波浪-海流-微地形（沙纹）耦合的沉积动力模式。本文将该模式应用于澳大利亚Jervis湾,针对波主导和波流联合主导沙纹两种类型,分别进行了沙纹发展状态、几何形态的分布及悬浮泥沙的模拟。结果表明:波致沙纹比波流联合作用的沙波具有更大的波高和波长,因此当波主导时沙纹对悬浮泥沙起着关键作用。通过考虑随沙纹变化的粗糙度,相比于以往模式设置均一的粗糙度,该模型能对悬浮物浓度的骤升过程进行更精细的预测。     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…