海浪的特征波陡

在现有的海浪要素统计分布的理论框架下具体地推导了二维海浪波良与波长的联合统计分布,波长统计分布以及波陡的统计分布,在此基础上对上特征波陡的定义及期 承风要素的变化规律做了较为细致的讨论。     

应用特征波预报公式进行台风浪计算的一个根本缺陷

Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。     

粗糙度与风浪特征量关系的研究

在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪和风速,研究粗糙度与波面特征量的关系,发现风浪谱宽度增加,粗糙度增大。在窄谱时,粗糙度随谱宽的增加变化不明显,当波陡降低,粗糙度降低;在宽谱时,当谱宽度增加,即使波陡降低,粗糙度仍可增大。这一结果表明,波陡不足以完全决定粗糙度。当风浪波龄增加,粗糙度呈下降趋势,但由于谱宽度对粗糙度的影响,当波龄增加,部分波浪可有较大的粗糙度。由于这一因素,在粗糙度与波龄关系的观测结果中,数据点的散落不完全由观测误差造成。     

Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness

In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.     

有限水深下独立波群的能量变化试验研究

为了研究独立高斯型波群在中等水深条件下的非线性演化情况,进行了多种波况的物理试验,重点分析了波浪各要素对波群非线性演化的影响。试验结果表明,波陡在波群演化中占主导作用,其次是波群的谱宽,前者引起的非线性主要体现在高阶谐波的能量变化而后者引起的非线性主要体现在自由波能量的变化。频带下移现象只在大波陡情况下才会发生,随着波陡的增加,频带下移发生的相对更早,随着波群的谱变窄,频带下移相对越明显。波陡的增加会使得波群更早的开始分裂。大波陡的波群在演化中会发生破碎,破碎的类型以崩破为主,并且崩破是间歇发生的,连续崩破发生的距离约为1.0～1.5倍波长。此外,破碎引起的能量损耗主要来源于主频和高频成分波,耗散率约10%～18%,平均每个崩破能耗约为初始能量的2%。     

Wind speed scaling and the drag coefficient

[1]Banner M L, Chen W, Walsh E J, et al.     

波群内单个波的波陡分布与波破碎

对波群内单个波的波陡分布和波破碎进行了实验研究。研究结果是,波群中波动的最大振幅出现在波群前部而不是出现在波群中央,这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波出现大波陡的概率大于后部单个波出现大波陡的概率;进一步的波破碎统计发现波群前部单个波破碎的频率是后部单个波破碎频率的4倍。因此认为,波群结构的不对称性能够导致单个波发生破碎的...     

Experimental study of nonlinear behaviors of a free-floating body in waves

Nonlinear behaviors of a free-floating body in waves were experimentally investigated in the present study. The experiments were carried out for 6 different wave heights and 6 different wave periods to cover a relatively wide range of wave nonlinearities. A charge-coupled device (CCD) camera was used to capture the real-time motion of the floating body. The measurement data show that the sway, heave and roll motions of the floating body are all harmonic oscillations while the equilibrium position of the sway motion drifts in the wave direction. The drift speed is proportional to wave steepness when the size of the floating body is comparable to the wavelength, while it is proportional to the square of wave steepness when the floating body is relatively small. In addition, the drift motion leads to a slightly longer oscillation period of the floating body than the wave period of nonlinear wave and the discrepancy increases with the increment of wave steepness.     

Experimental Study of Nonlinear Behaviors of A Free-Floating Body in Waves

Nonlinear behaviors of a free-floating body in waves were experimentally investigated in the present study. The experiments were carried out for 6 different wave heights and 6 different wave periods to cover a relatively wide range of wave nonlinearities. A charge-coupled device (CCD) camera was used to capture the real-time motion of the floating body. The measurement data show that the sway, heave and roll motions of the floating body are all harmonic oscillations while the equilibrium position of the sway motion drifts in the wave direction. The drift speed is proportional to wave steepness when the size of the floating body is comparable to the wavelength, while it is proportional to the square of wave steepness when the floating body is relatively small. In addition, the drift motion leads to a slightly longer oscillation period of the floating body than the wave period of nonlinear wave and the discrepancy increases with the increment of wave steepness.     

Modeling of the propagation of transient waves of moderate steepness

A theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A semi-analytical solution was derived by applying an eigenfunction expansion method. The solution is applied to analyze the effect of wave frequencies and wave steepness on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The main attention is paid to the wave profile, the wave energy spectrum, and the changes of wave profile and energy spectrum due to the interaction of wave components in a wave train. The results show that for waves of low steepness the nonlinear wave effects and effects associated with the interaction of water waves in a wave train are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave train are becoming significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position. The evolution of wave components has substantial effects on the wave spectrum. A train of initially very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short period of time. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical approaches. The free-surface elevation recorded by a system of wave gauges was compared with the results provided by the semi-analytical solution. Theoretical results are in a fairly good agreement with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed often even for relatively steep waves.     

Run-up on a body in waves and current. Fully nonlinear and finite-order calculations

Run-up on a large fixed body in waves and current have been calculated using both a fully nonlinear time-domain boundary element model and a finite-order time-domain boundary element model, the latter being correct to second order in the wave steepness and to first-order in the current strength. The results from the two models agree well in the low Froude number and low wave steepness regime. This serves as a cross-validation of the two boundary element models. Furthermore, the two sets of data provide an excellent method for examining the domain of validity for the second-order method. Such limits are, for the case studied, given in terms of maximum Froude number and maximum wave steepness.     

海面粗糙度方案的适用性研究

由量纲分析导出海面粗糙度与波龄及海面涌浪的状况有关,并对与波龄和波陡有关的两种海面粗糙度模型方案进行了敏感性测试,得出利用波龄模型方案计算粗糙度的误差比利用波陡模型方案小。基于国际上6个不同水深、风区和海况条件的海气交换试验资料,将其分为两组,一组是纯风海或以风海为主海况条件,另一组是以涌浪为主海况条件,测试波龄、波陡模型海面粗糙度方案在不同试验条件下的适用性。结果得出:在各种海况条件下,波龄模型粗糙度方案比波陡模型具有更好的普适性。在纯风海或以风海为主海况条件下,PS07,DGHQ03方案计算的粗糙度长度与实测资料计算结果最接近,GW06方案次之,O02方案计算结果明显偏高;涌浪为主海况条件下两种模型方案计算的粗糙度长度均偏低,O02方案计算的粗糙度长度误差相对较小,TY01方案误差最大。     

Effects of wave breaking on wave statistics for deep-water random wave train

The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves.     

Run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a plane beach

We study the run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of composite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run-up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pronounced for the run-up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run-up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave.     

Reconstruction of ancient sea conditions with an example from the Swiss Molasse

Ancient sea conditions can be estimated from the grain size, spacing and steepness of preserved ripple-marks. The element of greatest uncertainty in such reconstructions is the relationship between near-bed orbital diameter of water particles and the ripple spacing. This relationship is simple for vortex ripples of high steepness but is problematical for the low-steepness forms known as post-vortex, rolling-grain or anorbital ripples.

The existence field for wave ripples is between the threshold velocity for sediment movement and the onset of sheet flow, most low-steepness forms occurring close to the bed planation threshold. A range of maximum period of formative waves can be obtained using combinations of orbital diameter and orbital velocity, assuming linear wave theory to be a reasonable approximation.

Probable wave heights, wave lengths and water depths can be investigated using the transformation of wave parameters in shallowing waters and the constraints on wave dimensions provided by the wave-breaking condition. Given reasonable estimates of wave height, crude estimates of wave power allow a comparison of ancient wave-influenced sequences with modern counterparts.

Wave ripple-marks preserved in the Upper Marine Molasse of western Switzerland have been investigated. Results, which are in agreement with regional geology, suggest deposition in a seaway of approximately 100 km width, where moderate period waves (T = 3–6 s) were generated. The depositional facies belts were adjusted to the prevailing waves, tides and fluvial outflows.     

深水极端波浪非线性几何特征试验分析

为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。     

Evaluation of two spectral wave models for wave hindcasting in the Mackenzie Delta

Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation.     

风浪状态对海面风应力影响的初步研究

利用新近提出的海面风应力系数线性参数化理论,定性地分析了已有风应力和风浪的观测数据。分析发现这些观测数据表明在小波陡的情形下海面风应力系数随风速的变化较大波陡的情形更加迅速。结果定性地倾向于支持Toba等的结果,即成熟的风浪较年轻的风浪更加粗糙。     

Numerical Investigation of Run-ups on Cylinder in Steep Regular Wave

The run-up on offshore structures induced by the steep regular wave is a highly nonlinear flow with a free surface.This article focuses on the investigation of the steep regular wave run-up on a single vertical cylinder by solving the Navier-Stokes equations. A numerical wave tank is established based on the open-source package to simulate the wave scattering induced by a vertical cylinder. The VOF method is applied to capture the large deformation and breaking of the free surface. The numerical model is validated by experimental results. The relative wave run-ups on the front face and the back face along the centerline of a cylinder are analyzed. The changes of the relative run-ups with the wave steepness, the relative diameter and the relative depth are studied. It is found that the relative run-ups on the front face and the back face of the cylinder depend mainly on the wave steepness and the relative diameter,while the dependence on the relative depth is weak. The empirical formulae are proposed to calculate the relative run-ups in terms of the wave steepness of incident regular waves and the relative diameter of a cylinder.