Modeling of the propagation of transient waves of moderate steepness

A theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of nonlinear water waves. A semi-analytical solution was derived by applying an eigenfunction expansion method. The solution is applied to analyze the effect of wave frequencies and wave steepness on the propagation of nonlinear waves. The main attention is paid to the wave profile, the wave energy spectrum, and the changes of wave profile and energy spectrum due to the interaction of wave components in a wave train. The results show that for waves of low steepness the nonlinear wave effects and effects associated with the interaction of water waves in a wave train are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves the effects associated with the interactions between waves in a wave train are becoming significant and a train of initially sinusoidal waves may drastically change its form within a short distance from its original position. The evolution of wave components has substantial effects on the wave spectrum. A train of initially very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short period of time. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical approaches. The free-surface elevation recorded by a system of wave gauges was compared with the results provided by the semi-analytical solution. Theoretical results are in a fairly good agreement with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed often even for relatively steep waves.     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum.The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schruedinger equation (mNLSE),and some involved influence factors are also discussed.Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied,a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train,and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves.The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.     

Bode积分定理在舵减摇H∞设计中应用

针对舵减摇系统的 H∞混合灵敏度问题,研究了控制系统设计中的限制因素,指出舵减摇控制系统的性能(灵敏度特性)要受到Bode积分定理的约束,因此在船舶横摇自然频率附近的频段内性能不能做到太低.考虑这些限制条件,并从基本的性能要求出发,详细说明了舵减摇系统 H∞设计中权函数的确定.经过多次重新设计和对比,给出了一组最为合理的设计结果.仿真结果表明,所设计的 H∞控制系统满足性能要求,而且取得了很高地减摇效果.     

近岸带波高与周期分布的核密度估计

使用双变量核密度估计方法描述近岸带波高和周期联合概率密度分布与波高、周期边缘密度分布。结果表明,核密度估计方法比通常使用的参数模式能更好地显示出具有多峰的波要素统计结构,核密度估计的波周期带宽系数能反映波浪谱的某些信息,尤其以波周期带宽和谱宽参量具有良好的线性关系。     

On the accurate and efficient calibration of a 3D wave basin

This paper describes the calibration procedure adopted for the new 3D wave basin located in the Hydrodynamics Laboratory at Imperial College London. Unlike traditional calibrations, based on observations of regular wave trains, the method described herein uses a focused wave approach. Such waves, produced by the constructive interference of freely propagating wave components, have led to a number of recent advances in theoretical wave modelling in which it was essential to know the underlying linear components. In the context of a laboratory study, similar advantages can be realised provided the linear wave components generated by the wave paddles are well defined. This, in turn, can only be achieved if the calibration is sufficiently accurate. The current study provides a calibration based upon a realistic JONSWAP spectrum, describes the details of the methodology employed, and highlights how the application of focused wave techniques eliminates spurious calibration effects due to unwanted reflections from the boundaries of the basin. The final calibration is verified through the generation of test cases, involving linear and nonlinear, unidirectional and directionally spread waves. These confirm both the accuracy of the calibration and the suitability of the methods employed.     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Numerical Simulated Study on the Separation of Oblique Incident and Reflected Waves

The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05～0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Performance and limitations of the Hilbert–Huang transformation (HHT) with an application to irregular water waves

This paper relates to the newly developed Hilbert–Huang transformation (HHT). An overview of this time-frequency analysis technique and its applications are given. Key elements of the numerical procedure and principles of the Hilbert transformation (HT) are established. A simple parameter study with trigonometric functions to get an idea about the numerical performance of the empirical mode decomposition (EMD) is performed. The main results of estimating relative standardized errors made between analytically exact defined sine waves and disintegrated intrinsic functions as well as their specific influence on each other are determined. Practical applications are carried out next to evaluate computed nonlinear irregular water waves based on Stokes perturbation expansion approach and measurements on fully nonlinear irregular water waves recorded in a laboratory wave flume. Correspondence between simulated and recorded wave trains is given for narrow-banded fundamental components. Deviations are unveiled when carrier and riding waves get broad banded. Time-dependent spectral representation shows signs of an interesting phenomenon as instantaneous frequencies and amplitudes exhibit strong correlations with water surface elevations of both numerical and measured data series.     

Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular Waves over A Mild Slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1?40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

Dynamic Analysis of a Turret-Moored Tanker

—In this paper,the second-order perturbation method in frequency domain is used to calculateRAO and spectra of motion and mooring line tension of a turret-moored tanker in ballast condition.Thecalculated results are compared with corresponding experiment results.In the experiment the wave head-ing is 180°,and the wave spectra is the P-M spectrum and white noise spectrum.In the theoretical calcu-lations,the damping coefficient of slow oscillation of the tanker is determined on the basis of the dampingobtained from a test of irregular waves where the mooring system is replaced by a nonlinear spring withnonlinear stiffness similar to that of the mooring system.From the comparison between theoretical calcula-tions and experimental results,it can be found that the theoretical results obtained by the second-orderperturbation method in frequency domain are in good agreement with the experimental results,indicatingthat the damping coefficient of slow oscillation of the tanker required in frequency domain calcu     

深水随机波列中畸形波统计特征的研究

本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。     

运动物体生成内波的一类非线性谱方程组

本文给出了由运动物体所生成内波的基本方程组和对应的谱方程组。该方程组的线性部分是一具有体积源 (其下简称为体源 )的 Sturm- Liouville本征值问题 ,而它的非线性部分是由体源与线性波场相互作用的谱表示。在这类强迫方程的源项中包含了 10类内波谱 ,这些谱最终均可利用内波的振幅谱表示。本文给出了线性波场波要素的谱表示和运动物体生成内波的非线性谱方程可解性的讨论。为了检验所得到的谱方程组 ,文中又进行了该谱方程组线性部分的数值计算。     

波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响

通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别.     

南海北部台风海浪谱的双峰性和成长性

本论文通过对南海北部三次台风过境期间基于浮标观测的海浪谱进行分析，发现虽然大部分成熟的台风海浪谱为单峰结构，但实际上在台风海浪的成长和衰减阶段，双峰谱占据了很大的比例。双峰谱的形成主要是由于风浪和涌浪的叠加以及不同波分量之间的非线性相互作用，我们可以通过能量密度的成长率对谱型变化进行高效的预报。此外，台风海浪的主要波向依赖于台风中心相对观测点的位置，而波向的分散情况在相距台风中心较远的区域无明显规律。本文提出了一个新的六参数波浪谱型拟合双峰谱，其拟合效果相较于前人的谱型更好。通过验证，形状参数和谱宽度之间的理论关系依然适用于单个谱峰。通过分析谱参量的变化特征，证明了谱参量不仅与台风强度和台风路径相关，还存在很强的交互相关。最后通过拟合海浪谱数据，本文得到了台风影响下海浪有效波高和有效周期之间的成长关系，这对海洋工程实际应用具有重要意义。     

Reproduction of higher harmonics in irregular waves

The basic features of higher harmonic waves were originally presented by Stokes in 1847 who showed that a 2nd-order regular wave would attain a higher, sharper crest and a flatter trough than the basic linear one. In this paper, these characteristics are investigated for an irregular wave train. This was done to make it possible to reproduce in a laboratory flume a wave train which has the correct profile and rms according to 2nd-order theory. The 2nd-order wave heights and the overall horizontal asymmetries of the wave train were calculated for a 1st-order PM and a Jonswap spectrum. The theoretical predictions show that the traditional wave generation in a laboratory flume which is based on linear theory produces free 2nd-order waves in addition to the bound 2nd-order waves described by Stokes. These free, parasitic waves incorrectly distort the shape of the waves and produce a varying rms as a function of distance from the wave paddle. In the 2nd-order theory presented in this paper, these free (parasitic) waves are calculated for the entire spectrum. Knowing these, they can be eliminated by compensating for them by using a 2nd-order control signal on the wave paddle. This is verified by a series of model tests which show that realistic wave profiles can be generated only by means of 2nd-order control signals. The theory and corresponding paddle control are presented for any type of translating, rotating or combined wave generator.     

Numerical investigation of the effect of current on wave focusing

In the present study,a numerical wave tank is developed to simulate the nonlinear wave-current interactions based on High Order Spectral(HOS) method.The influences of current on wave focusing are investigated by use of numerical model.The current is assumed to be constant in space.Focused waves with different amplitudes and frequency spectra are simulated with and without current.The focused wave characteristics,such as surface elevation,the maximum crest and frequency spectrum,with different current are compared.The results show that the opposing current increases the maximum crest and the energy transform during wave focusing process,and vice versa for the following current.     

风压作用下非线性极端波浪的数值模拟

本文在时域非线性数值波浪水槽中，研究了不同风速条件下极端波浪的特性。采用推板造波的方式生成非线性波浪，基于Jeffrey遮蔽理论将风压项引入自由面动力学边界条件来模拟风压作用，通过高阶边界元法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日时间步进法来求解初边值问题。通过与已发表的聚焦波群实验结果对比验证了该数值模型的准确性，并研究了风压对极端波浪的最大波高、聚焦位置的偏移和波浪谱的演变等波浪性质的影响。本文进一步在数值波浪水槽中引入均匀水流，来模拟风生流对波浪演变的影响。结果表明，风压的存在会少量增大极端波浪的最大波高，波浪的聚焦和解焦过程伴随着明显的能量传递，并且风生流进一步导致了波浪聚焦位置的偏移。