Sediment facies and pathways of sand transport about a large deep water headland,Cape Rodney,New Zealand

Cape Rodney is a large headland that protrudes 3–4 km into deep water in the Hauraki Gulf and separates the Mangawhai‐Pakiri and Omaha littoral cells. Detailed swath mapping of seabed sediments around Cape Rodney was carried out using by side‐scan sonar and ground‐truthed by SCUBA, grab sampling, and video. Despite the barrier imposed by the headland two pathways of sand transport around the headland, separated by the topographic high of Leigh Reef, have been identified. One lies close to the headland, where sand from the beach and nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is driven by waves and currents along a 500‐m‐wide pathway in c. 20–25 m depth around the headland to the vicinity of Leigh Harbour. The other lies in 50 m water‐depth seawards of Leigh Reef. Here fine sand, sourced from the nearshore of the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment and driven offshore from the tip of the headland, is transported back and forth by tidal currents in 50 m water depth on the floor of the Jellicoe Channel. The sand bodies along both these pathways are thin and so sand leakage from the Mangawhai‐Pakiri embayment is thought to be small. Transport at these depths is dependent on both tide and wave generated currents and episodic occurring during storm events. The sediment facies associated with little sand transport about a headland in deep water is one of thin and discontinuous and patchy sand cover between rocky areas and over coarser megarippled substrate. Ocean swell, tidally driven phase eddies that spin up on both sides of the headland, and bathymetry all play a role in shaping those facies.     

Surficial sediments on the continental margin off the west coast of South Africa

A combination of climatic and oceanic factors has resulted in slow sedimentation rates on the continental shelf off the west coast of South Africa since Tertiary times. This has enabled a study to be made of the residual Late Tertiary, relict Pleistocene and Holocene sediments.Sediments on the continental shelf form rough belts parallel to the coast. Most of the coarse sediment is confined to the littoral zone and Holocene mud is concentrated at the base of a rocky nearshore platform. A veneer of Quaternary quartzitic sand seawards of the Recent mud belt wedges out onto a Tertiary erosion surface on the mid shelf. Residual glauconite and phosphorite sands derived by erosion during Tertiary sea-level fluctuations cover large parts of the mid shelf in the south. Most of the slope and parts of the outer shelf in the north are draped by Recent foraminiferal and coccolithophorid debris.     

Offshore sand sources for beach replenishment: Potential borrows on the continental shelf of the Eastern Gulf of Mexico

Erosion of sandy beaches is a worldwide problem that elicits innovative geoengineer‐ing techniques to reduce adverse impacts of shoreline retreat. Beach replenishment has emerged as the “soft”; shore‐stabilization technique of choice for mitigating beach erosion. This method of shore protection involves the addition of sand to the littoral sediment budget for sacrificial purposes. Because inland sand sources are often uneconomical or impractical to use, and known nearshore sources are limited, finding adequate quantities of suitable sand on the inner continental shelf is often vital to beach replenishment projects. The technical studies of survey and materials analysis that identify and delineate usable sand sources are sometimes almost as expensive as small‐project dredging, pumping, and placing the sand on the beach as fill. Inadequate quantity or substandard quality of shelf sand, as well as often‐prohibitive overhead expenses, thus compel shoreline managers to seek suitable sand sources offshore.

In the study area off the central‐west coast of Florida, offshore potential borrow areas (PBAs) were identified on the basis of studies conducted in reconnoitory and detailed phases. Sophisticated state‐of‐the‐art equipment used in this investigation provided more detailed subbottom mapping information than is normally obtained with conventional seismic equipment. An example of sand exploration studies was incorporated in a 215‐km² survey of offshore areas by conducting bathymetric surveys and subbottom seismic profiling, collecting jet probes, grab samples, and vibrocores, and analyzing sediment grading in subsamples from vibrocores. These combined analyses indicated that at least 8.8 ×10⁶ m³ of sand is available in potential borrow areas from 7.0 to 12 km offshore in water depths of 8.0 to 11.5 m. In the PBAs, mean grain size of sand falls into the range 0.13–0.53 mm, sorting averages 0.65–1.31ø, and the overall silt content varies from 3.9–8.5%. High silt contents (13–19%) mapped in some areas make these sedimentary deposits unsuitable as fill for artificial beach renourishment.     

Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics

The Australian coast contains 10,685 beaches which occupy 49% of the 30,000 km coast and average 1.37 km in length. Their relatively short length is largely due to the presence of bedrock, calcarenite and laterite, which form boundaries to many of the beaches, as well as occurring as rocks, reefs and islands along and off the beaches. This geological inheritance plays a major role in Australian beach systems — determining their length and through wave refraction and attenuation influencing beach location, shape, type, morphodynamics and circulation, which in turn influence sediment transport and the backing dune and barrier systems. This paper uses a database covering every Australian beach to review the role of headlands, rocks and reefs on Australian beaches. Major effects are the short average beach length; reduction in breaker height resulting in lower energy beach types; wave refraction resulting in increased beach curvature; the presence of topographic rips on moderate and higher energy beaches and megarips during high wave conditions; and the interruption of and/or trapping of longshore sand transport leading to beach rotation.     

杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段近岸滩槽冲淤演变分析

以杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段边滩及海床为研究区域,利用1989—2014年实测及海图资料分析岸滩断面地形变化和岸段冲淤变化。结果表明:在该研究时段,岸段存在长期稳定的冲刷深槽;近岸海床的冲淤表现出“波动性”,5 m等深线(2014年)以浅区以淤积为主,5 m等深线以深冲淤更迭,1989年以来总体呈现冲刷态势。长江入海泥沙量变化为该岸段发生侵蚀/淤积的影响因子之一,台风大浪及海床侵蚀/淤积波的移动导致海床冲淤复杂化。     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

薛家岛岬湾型海岸侵蚀演化的定量性研究

在4a连续观测的基础上,确定薛家岛周边大部分是抗蚀强度大的基岩岬湾海蚀岸,海蚀崖蚀退和海蚀平台蚀低的平均速率分别为10-2和10-4m/a量级;弓形海湾湾顶有薄层现代海滩砂砾,石雀湾和银沙滩崖前和后滨有大量海滩相大砾石(粒度为20～30cm).外侧海岸直濒开阔海,水下岸坡为深陡型,气象水文等外营力因素作用强度较大,显示中—高能海岸环境地质地貌特征.薛家岛外海海岸冲积物供给源贫乏,小于2×104m3/a.沿岸冲积物流流向北东至南西,采用目前国际较通用的波浪辐射应力模式方法计算其容量达13×104m3/a,这种源-运量的不平衡是造成基岩海蚀岸的机制.     

Scour and Burial Mechanics of Objects in the Nearshore

A process-based, numerical, hydrodynamic vortex lattice mine scour/burial model (VORTEX) is presented that simulates scour and burial of objects of arbitrary shape resting on a granular bed in the nearshore. There are two domains in the model formulation: a far-field where burial and exposure occur due to changes in the elevation of the seabed and a near-field involving scour and transport of sediment by the vortices shed from the object. The far-field burial mechanisms are based on changes in the equilibrium bottom profiles in response to seasonal changes in wave climate and accretion/erosion waves spawned by fluxes of sediment into the littoral cell. The near-field domain consists of one grid cell extracted from the far-field that is subdivided into a rectangular lattice of panels having sufficient resolution to define the shape of the object. The vortex field induced by the object is constructed from an assemblage of horseshoe vortices excited by local pressure gradients and shear over the lattice panels. The horseshoe vortices of each lattice panel release a pair of vortex filaments into the neighboring flow. The induced velocity of these trailing vortex filaments causes scour of the neighboring seabed and induces hydrodynamic forces on the object. Scour around the object and its subsequent movement into the scour depression contribute to burial, while far-field changes in local sand level may increase burial depth or expose the object. Scour and burial predictions of mines and mine-like objects were tested in field experiments conducted in the nearshore waters off the Pacific coast of California at Scripps Pier, the Gulf Coast of Florida at Indian Rocks, and off the Atlantic coast of Massachusetts at Martha's Vineyard. Model predictions of mine scour and burial are in reasonable agreement with field measurements and underwater photographs.     

浙江苍南近岸海域海床冲淤过程研究

近岸海床冲淤变化直接反映海区地貌稳定状态,由此影响海区物质迁移及水运资源可持续利用。基于此,本研究通过选择苍南海域不同时期的海图资料,基于ArcGIS平台探讨该海域多尺度海床冲淤过程,为研究区海岸港工建筑规划与评估提供理论指导。主要研究结果包括：苍南海域海床冲淤变化大致分为四个阶段,即1931—1970年大幅淤积,海床净淤积量达到169.47×10⁶m³,淤积强度为5.18 cm/a;1971—2005年海床淤积幅度减弱,海床净淤积量为12.24×10⁶m³,淤积强度为0.41 cm/a;2006—2009年海床由淤转冲,海床净冲刷量为14.70×10⁶m³,冲刷强度为3.60 cm/a;2010—2017年海床持续冲刷,海床净冲刷量为10.17×10⁶m³,冲刷强度为1.33 cm/a。除1931—1970年10 m等深线向海大幅扩张以及1971—2005年10 m等深线有部分向海扩张外,1971—2017年5 m与10 m等深线普遍向陆后退。2006—2017年,位于北关港内的2 m等深线也向陆后退。冲淤结果显示,苍南海域海床未来可能呈现弱侵蚀态势。其中,风暴潮频发导致海床经常性失稳加之长江入海泥沙的减少导致该区域泥沙补给不足,二者共同作用可能是该区域海床由淤积逐渐转为侵蚀的主导因素。     

Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate for a Typical Pocket Beach Along West Coast of India

Estimation of Longshore Sediment Transport Rate (LSTR) in the littoral zone is essential for managing and developing any coastal zone. Numerical models are powerful tool to understand and investigate various processes responsible for LSTR in a systematic manner since direct measurement of LSTR is a difficult task. A one dimensional LITDRIFT model was implemented along the Vengurla coast for estimation of LSTR and to analyze the sensitivity of each input parameters towards the computation of LSTR. Major input parameters required for the estimation of LSTR are nearshore wave climate, bathymetry, and sediment characteristics. The nearshore wave data at a depth of 15 m were collected using wave rider buoy in 2015 is used in the present study. Field observations were carried out to survey the regional bathymetry and sediment characteristics. Annual net LSTR along Vengurala coast is relatively less and varies from ?7778 to ?9015 m³ with an average of ?8511 m³. The net direction of LSTR is towards south and gross LSTR is 1.18 × 10⁵ m³/year. The LSTR reveals more sensitivity to coastline orientation and wave direction. A 1° changes in coastline angle and wave direction causes approximately 3000 m³/month difference in LSTR. Moreover, wave height, wave period, and bed roughness has an important role for controlling LSTR. The model results help to identify the role of each parameter contributing towards LSTR estimation and a similar model approach can be applied to other coasts for estimating LSTR in an accurate way.     

Sediment distribution and transport along a rocky, embayed coast: Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California

Field measurements of beach morphology and sedimentology were made along the Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California, in the spring and summer of 1997. These data were combined with low-altitude aerial imagery, high-resolution bathymetry, and local geology to understand how coastal geomorphology, lithology, and tectonics influence the distribution and transport of littoral sediment in the nearshore and inner shelf along a rocky shoreline over the course of decades. Three primary modes of sediment distribution in the nearshore and on the inner shelf off the Monterey Peninsula and in Carmel Bay were observed. Along stretches of the study area that were exposed to the dominant wave direction, sediment has accumulated in shore-normal bathymetric lows interpreted to be paleo-stream channels. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and streams channels trend perpendicular to the coast, sediment-filled paleo-stream channels occur in the nearshore as well, but here they are connected to one another by shore-parallel ribbons of sediment at depths between 2 and 6 m. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and onshore stream channels are not present, only shore-parallel patches of sediment at depths greater than 15 m are present. We interpret the distribution and interaction or transport of littoral sediment between pocket beaches along this coastline to be primarily controlled by the northwest-trending structure of the region and the dominant oceanographic regime. Because of the structural barriers to littoral transport, peaks in wave energy appear to be the dominant factor controlling the timing and magnitude of sediment transport between pocket beaches, more so than along long linear coasts. Accordingly, the magnitude and timing of sediment transport is dictated by the episodic nature of storm activity.     

Instruments for investigating shore and nearshore processes

Abstract

On shingle beaches, changes in foreshore elevation and sediment distribution landward of the break point are produced largely by variations in the uprush and backwash of waves. However, very little is known about the forces active in this zone.

A field instrument system which senses and records some of the parameters thought to influence beach erosion and deposition in this zone has been constructed. The equipment is also suitable for the investigation of a number of other shore and nearshore processes including erosion on sandy and rocky shores, and flow processes affecting littoral biological communities.

In the swash zone two sensing heads, a dynamometer and a depth recorder, sense variations in uprush and backwash velocities, energies, discharges, and depths of flow. Both devices are electromechanical and are coupled to a recording unit on land by PVC‐insulated cable. The dynamometer (two force plates mounted back‐to‐back on a compression spring and coupled to variable resistances) has been calibrated, statically and in a flume, to obtain velocity determinations accurate to within 10 cm . sec^?1 of true flow speed. Average swash zone velocities lie between 100 and 300 cm . sec^?1.

A parallel‐wire resistance gauge mounted an a stilling tube records flow depths. As water level rises and falls in the tube it alters resistance in a control circuit. The land unit, amplifiers and a strip‐chart recorder, receives the output from the dynamometer and flow depth gauge. The recorder is equipped with a trip‐pen so that analysis of wave periods or other variables is possible in the field. With poles at known spacings across the shore and the trip‐pen records, velocity distributions across the swash zone can be obtained. Measurements of velocity made near the bed with the dynamometer can then be related to the local surface velocity profile.

Problems with the instrument system include inability to record velocities at several points simultaneously, and unreliable records of backwash parameters with low breakers on shingle beaches because of the small volume of flow and rapid percolation of water into the beach face.     

Facies architecture of the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner continental shelf of west-central Florida: implications for Holocene barrier development

Sediment vibracores and surface samples were collected from the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner shelf of west–central Florida in an effort to determine the three-dimensional facies architecture and Holocene geologic development of the coastal barrier-island and adjacent shallow marine environments. The unconsolidated sediment veneer is thin (generally <3 m), with a patchy distribution. Nine facies are identified representing Miocene platform deposits (limestone gravel and blue–green clay facies), Pleistocene restricted marine deposits (lime mud facies), and Holocene back-barrier (organic muddy sand, olive-gray mud, and muddy sand facies) and open marine (well-sorted quartz sand, shelly sand, and black sand facies) deposits. Holocene back-barrier facies are separated from overlying open marine facies by a ravinement surface formed during the late Holocene rise in sea level. Facies associations are naturally divided into four discrete types. The pattern of distribution and ages of facies suggest that barrier islands developed approximately 8200 yr BP and in excess of 20 km seaward of the present coastline in the north, and more recently and nearer to their present position in the south. No barrier-island development prior to approximately 8200 yr BP is indicated. Initiation of barrier-island development is most likely due to a slowing in the Holocene sea-level rise ca. 8000 yr BP, coupled with the intersection of the coast with quartz sand deposits formed during Pleistocene sea-level highstands. This study is an example of a mixed carbonate/siliciclastic shallow marine depositional system that is tightly constrained in both time and sea-level position. It provides a useful analog for the study of other, similar depositional systems in both the modern and ancient rock record.     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。     

海南岛新海湾海滩地貌状态与海岸泥沙纵向运动特征

根据１９９０年现场调查及前期观察资料，论述了海南岛新海弧形海湾不同岸段由主要动力驱动过程和海滩地貌结构组成的４种海滩地貌状态，为Ⅰ．隐蔽段消散类型，Ⅱ．脊－沟体系与低潮台地类型，Ⅲ．韵律海滩与砂坝类型，Ⅳ．开敞段消散类型。应用泥沙粒级参数概率模型分析近岸泥沙纵向运动趋势，结果表明，常波况下，沿岸泥沙存在双向运动，湾顶海滩为汇集地带，泥沙纵向运动主趋势为西南向；高能条件下，海岸北段可出现北向泥沙运动     

岬间海滩泥沙输运趋势与剖面分形研究

根据1999年7月实测的粤东岬间海滩沉积与地形变化资料,采用沉积物输运概率模式(McLaren模型)对海滩沿岸泥沙运移趋势进行探讨。结果表明,在常波况条件下海滩沿岸泥沙向偏南方向运移,在高能条件下可能出现与常波况条件下相反运动的趋势。进一步利用分形分布模型研究了海滩剖面的分形性质,提出了岬间海滩剖面地形变化的短期分形预测模型。     

Beach and nearshore facies: Southeast Australia

The morphology, texture and facies sequence on seven sand beaches, located in low, moderate and high wave energy, microtidal environments in southern Australia were investigated using box coring and Scuba observations. Systematic variation in facies occur both within and between the beaches. Low-energy reflective beaches are limited in lateral and vertical extent and in facies to beach laminations separated by coarse step deposits from finer nearshore cross-lamination facies. Moderate-energy intermediate beaches characterised by rip circulation possess increasingly wider surfzones with ridge and runnel and bar-trough facies separating the beach and step facies from the more extensive nearshore sequence. High-energy dissipative beaches may have 500 m wide surfzones containing multiple bar-trough topography. Fine beach laminations with backwash structures grade into 4–5 m thick bar-trough sequences then the extensive nearshore facies. As wave energy increases from low (H_b < 1 m) to high (H_b > 2.5 m) the vertical extent of the beach to nearshore sequence increases from <10 m to approximately 30 m, and the width from 100 m to several kilometres. Consequently one would expect higher-energy paleo-beach sequences to be represented more by diagonal than vertical facies sequences.     

A budget for modern‐Holocene sediment on the South Otago continental shelf

A sediment budget for the South Otago continental shelf and coast, between Nugget Point and Otago Peninsula, reveals modern (post 6500 y) sediment input is dominated by the Clutha River (total 3.14 Mt y^‐1; Mt = 10⁶ tonnes). Contributions from the Taieri River (0.6 Mt y^‐1), the adjacent Southland shelf (0.4 Mt y^‐1), and the biogenic production of calcareous shell debris (0.25 Mt y^‐1) account for only 28% of the input. About half of the bedload (sand and gravel) reaching the Otago shelf is stored within a large nearshore sand wedge in the protected waters of Molyneux Bay, off the Clutha River. Bedload that escapes storage (1.1 Mt y^‐1) is transported north‐eastwards to be deposited on beach and inner shelf environments just north of Otago Peninsula. Suspended load (mud) accounts for over half of the sediment input (2.33 Mt y^‐1) and is nearly all transported from the study area to accumulate in north‐easterly shelf and slope depocentres.     

Dealing with erosion along the Danube Delta coast. The CONSCIENCE experience towards a sustainable coastline management

The most severe shoreline retreat (over 20 m/year) along the Danube Delta coast has been recorded in the coastal stretch confined by the Sulina branch (north) and Sahalin spit island (south). This erosive trend is caused by the natural evolution of some stretches of the Danube Delta coast, but strongly enhanced by the human activities. Human interventions result in the dramatic decrease in quantity of sediments reaching the coast and in the disruption of natural sediment circulation in the coastal area. EUROSION FP5 Project developed four concepts to be used in coastal studies: coastal sediment cell, coastal resilience, favourable sediment status and strategic sediment reservoir. The main objectives of this study regard the application of the CONSCIENCE methodology and test of the concepts in order to identify and understand the main threats for Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, especially the coastal erosion one, as well as to provide a sound working methodology for coastal managers to deal with these threats. The sediment budget computed in previous studies, as well as the field observations, indicate a lack of sediments for the littoral cell (unfavourable sediment status). In order to asses the vulnerability of the coast to short term extreme events (especially storms), simulations of water level changes were performed and calibrated with the field observations. A processes based numerical model was used to simulate the storm induced water level variations and the main input data were the bathymetry of the active beach, wind direction and speed (storm scenarios) and the characteristics of water and air. The results show large water level increases for the central part of the study zone, especially for northern wind directions.The main solution proposed to deal the problems arising from a sediment-starved coast, vulnerable to the extreme events, is artificial nourishment. Two strategic sediment reservoirs were identified, both of them at the northern boundary of the cell: the sediments dredged periodically from Sulina mouth and the sediments accumulated in Musura Bay, just north of Sulina jetties. The transfer of these sediments towards the central part of the littoral cell Sulina - Sahalin would decrease the erosion rates to a natural level and restore the natural coastal resilience. The methodology developed in CONSCIENCE Framework and applied to Danube Delta coastal zone provided good results when problems and solutions for the coastal zone were to be identified and tested. This methodology and its related results can be applied by the local coastal managers to Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, while this experience can be extended to other similar environments facing the same problems.     

北海银滩响应台风作用的动力地貌过程

极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。