Characterization of marine aggregates off Waikiki,O'ahu,Hawai'i

Researchers at the University of Hawai'i at Manoa have been working for the past several years to develop the necessary techniques for finding and quantitatively characterizing offshore unconsolidated carbonate deposits with potential for beach nourishment and use in construction aggregates for tropical island communities. This article examines particular results of this research, with special attention given to the area offshore from Waikiki Beach. Acoustic surveying, water‐jet probing to measure the thickness of unconsolidated material and three different sampling methods were used in this study. Two separate seismic systems were used for the subbottom profiling survey, a Datasonics Bubble‐Pulser® system and a broad‐band, frequency‐modulated ("chirp") prototype system.

The following conclusions were reached. (1) Many different types of sediment underlie tropical island carbonate sand deposits and serve as refusing horizons to jet probing. Examples include consolidated or unconsolidated reef debris, beach rock, cemented sand, and various types of conglomerates formed from rhodoliths (coralline algae) or reef detritus. (2) Massive coral growth over clastic deposits is not a common offshore feature in this area, though it does occur in some areas off the Reef Runway. (3) Matrices of the coral Porites compressa, in‐filled with sand, may have acoustic properties similar to those of the sand bodies. Such deposits may be difficult to distinguish from unconsolidated deposits from seismic records alone. (4) Significant new prospects for offshore aggregates were found in the insular shelf offshore from Southern O'ahu. A total of 5,100,000 m³ were mapped off Waikiki. The Makua Shelf deposits in this area presently appear to be the best prospects for commercial development.     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.     

Artificial beach growth for breakwater protection at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island, New Zealand

The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m³ yr⁻¹).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.     

略论护岸工程的负面影响：以美国护岸工程为例

长久以来,人们采用各咎护岸工程保护遭受侵蚀的岸段,却忽视了由这些护岸建筑引起的负面效应－－干坝、突堤、离岸堤可导致邻近岸段的蚀退;海提、护岸至少经岸下蚀;海滩的人工再塑难以解决沙源,一个护岸工程,不仅要在工程上可行,还应地周边环境产生负面影响,本文就此提出了几点建议。     

Carbonate Sediment Deposits on the Reef Front Around Oahu,Hawaii

Large sediment deposits on the reef front around Oahu are a possible resource for replenishing eroded beaches. High-resolution subbottom profiles clearly depict the deposits in three study areas: Kailua Bay off the windward coast, Makua to Kahe Point off the leeward coast, and Camp Erdman to Waimea off the north coast. Most of the sediment is in water depths between 20 and 100?m, resting on submerged shelves created during lowstands of sea level. The mapped deposits have a volume of about 4?×?10⁸?m³ in water depths less than 100?m, being thickest off the mouth of channels carved into the modern insular shelf, from which most of the sediment issues. Vibracore samples contain various amounts of sediment of similar size to the sand on Oahu beaches, with the most compatible prospects located off Makaha, Haleiwa, and Camp Erdman, and the least compatible ones located in Kailua Bay. Laboratory tests show a positive correlation of abrasion with Halimeda content: samples from Kailua Bay suffered high amounts of attrition, but others were comparable to tested beach samples. The common gray color of the offshore sediment, aesthetically undesirable for sand on popular tourist beaches, was diminished in the laboratory by soaking in heated hydrogen peroxide.     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。     

Monitoring and comparison to predictive models of the Perdido Key beach nourishment project, Florida, USA

This paper summarizes the results of over 8 years of data describing the performance of a large beach nourishment project on Perdido Key, immediately adjacent to Pensacola Pass in Escambia County, FL, USA. As a result of a major excavation of the entrance channel to Pensacola Bay, over 7 million m³ of beach-quality sand were placed along the easternmost 7.5 km of Perdido Key, adjoining the entrance channel at Pensacola Pass. The project included the placement of 4.1 million m³ of sand directly upon the shoreline in 1989–1990, followed by the placement of an additional 3 million m³ as an underwater berm just offshore of the beach nourishment project in water depths of roughly 6 m. Monitoring of the performance of the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm has been conducted since 1989, beginning with a pre-construction survey of the project area. Monitoring surveys have been conducted on an annual or biennial basis since that time, with the most recent survey occurring in July/August, 1998. Over 8 years of monitoring data indicate that the beach nourishment project has retained approximately 56% of the original volume placed within the 7.5-km project length. In addition, according to the latest monitoring survey, the dry beach width of the project, initially constructed as 135 m on average, is still 53 m wider than pre-project conditions. Approximately 41% of the originally placed dry planform area remains as of July 1998. The most recent monitoring surveys in 1995, 1997, and 1998 encompass the effects of two major storm systems, Hurricanes Erin (August 1995) and Opal (October 1995). Monitoring of the offshore berm area indicates only a slight landward migration of the berm, accompanied by a minor decrease in volume, over the entire monitoring period. The performance of both the beach nourishment project and the offshore berm appear to be significantly related to the two storm events, particularly Hurricane Opal, and the proximity of the project to the tidal entrance at Pensacola Pass. Comparison of the documented performance of the beach nourishment project to simple existing analytical models of beach-fill evolution have yielded encouraging results in terms of preliminary design aids for future beach nourishment projects in the vicinity of deep tidal entrances.     

Haeundae Beach in Korea: Seasonal-to-decadal wave statistics and impulsive beach responses to typhoons

Haeundae Beach represents Korean pocket beaches that are currently erosional and dominated by summertime typhoons. The decadal wave characteristics 9 km offshore of Haeundae Beach were analyzed using the WAM model that was validated through the 2007 wave observations. The wave statistics modelled for 1979–2007 indicates that the seasonal mean significant wave height (H _s ) is highest (0.6–0.7 m) in summer due to typhoons, in contrast to the lowest (around 0.5 m) autumn analog. The wave direction is also pronouncedly seasonal with the principal bearings of SSW and NE in the summer and winter seasons, respectively. The WAM results additionally show that the H _s has gradually increased over the region of Haeundae Beach since 1993. Beach profiling during June–November 2014 shows the opposite processes of the typhoon and fair-weather on beach sands. During a typhoon, foreshore sands were eroded and then accumulated as sand bars on the surf zone. In the subsequent fair-weather, the sand bars moved back to the beach resulting in the surf-zone erosion and foreshore accretion. A total of 5 cycles of these beach-wide sand movements yielded a net retreat (up to 20 m) of the shoreline associated with large foreshore erosion. However, the surf zone only slightly accumulated as a result of the sand cycles. This was attributed to the sand escape offshore from the westernmost tip of the beach. The present study may provide an important clue to understanding the erosional processes in Haeundae Beach.     

Sediment transport along an artificial shoreline: “The Strand”, Townsville,NE-Queensland,Australia

Construction measures to stabilise or spatially extend coastlines have become a routine measure in urbanised coastal zones. This study quantifies beach profile changes and sediment transport along an artificial beach in Townsville, NE-Queensland. The “Strand” was transformed from a single degraded shoreline into a shoreline with five embayments (or “pocket beaches”) split by four artificial rocky headlands in 1998. The modified shoreline has had an impact on the local and regional northward long-shore sediment pathway, creating local shifts in sand. Sediment deposition and erosion occur at the same time at different parts of the pocket beaches. Collected offshore sediments show that little artificial sand is transported more than a few meters seaward in the south-eastern part of the Strand, while substantial and long-ranging export, i.e., tens to hundreds of meters, occurs in the north-western area. This is mainly the result of the breakwaters south of the Strand, which impacts the predominant northward long-shore sediment transport induced by the dominant south-easterly winds.     

Submarine Sand Resources,Southeastern Virginia-Contributions from Year 9 and Year 10 of Virginia's Continental Margins Program

Virginia's year 9 and year 10 funds from the Continental Shelf Program were used to supplement other work funded by the Minerals Management Service in an ongoing Cooperative Agreement focused on the area offshore of southeastern Virginia. Year 9 and year 10 funds facilitated interpretation of subbottom profiles and the analysis of sediment samples from cores and grabs. On Virginia's sediment-starved continental shelf, deposits of material potentially suitable for use as beach nourishment or, perhaps, as construction aggregate occur in three stratigraphic settings, each with specific characteristics of morphology, grain-size gradients, likelihood of discovery, and physical ease of exploitation. All must be verified with a careful program of coring. Modern shoals generally are easier to identify, prove, and access than either filled channels or lenticular facies. Shoals usually are identifiable on nautical charts and characteristically have a definite lower boundarythat can be seen in subbottom profiles. In most cases, the base of the shoal coincides with the level of the surrounding sea floor. Filled channels are readily identifiable on subbottom profiles but may have a narrow, sinuous form and steep lateral gradients in sediment properties. Buried lenticular facies of good-quality sand usually are found only fortuitously. As the lateral and often vertical gradients in geotechnical properties usually are low, the lenticular facies can be mined with a lesser concern for the consequences of violating the deposit's limits than with the other two types of deposit. There are three types of filled paleochannels in the study area. (1) Relatively near-surface, generally small, roughly shore normal channels most likely mark the migration of tidal inlets across the shelf during the most recent transgression. (2) Small, relatively wide and relatively shallow generally shore parallel channels may be filled back-barrier or lagoonal channels. (3) Larger channels trending across the shelf probably result from riverine flow. The complexity of the seismostratigraphy of the Quaternary deposits on south eastern Virginia's inner continental shelf is a result of series of high-frequency (fifth-order, 10-20,000 y), low-amplitude (20-30 m) variations in sea level that occurred during the last highstand, roughly 80,000 to 130,000 BP. The evidence of the small oscillations in sea level is best seen in the regions that were between the shoreline and wave base, today's inner shelf; however, the very low rates of deposition on the shelf make it difficult to correlate specific reflectors or beds or, at times, to distinguish between fifth-and fourth-order changes. Results for the continuing studies already have been used in the determination to mine several hundred thousand cubic meters of sand from Sandbridge Shoal for use on a Navy-owned facility and in consideration of mining greater quantities of sand from Sandbridge and other shoals for use in local beach nourishment and hurricane protection efforts.     

Mining Sand on the Continental Shelf of the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of the U.S.

Essentially all marine mining along the East and Gulf coasts of the U.S. is for sand used in beach nourishment projects. The current minimal commercial production of sand and aggregate may increase as conventional, on-shore sources become exhausted or are lost to competing land use. Studies published in the late 1990s document a history of nearly 900 individual episodes of beach nourishment having a total cost in excess of $2 × 10⁹ with several hundred million cubic meters of sand placed along over 645 km (400 mi) of shoreline. As exemplified by studies in Florida, prospecting for sand for use in beach nourishment can begin before site specific needs are identified. A full prospecting starts with assimilation of pertinent literature, local knowledge, and an understanding of the geologic and geomorphic settings in which suitable deposits of sand or aggregate occur. High-resolution seismic profiling follows to outline the three dimensional extent of the sand bodies. Finally, vibratory cores are collected to verify the interpretation of the seismic data and to provide samples for geotechnical, especially granulometric, analyses. The actual method of production often is determined by the local availability of different dredge types. Because the mining of marine sands disturbs meaningful areas of the sea floor, environmental concerns must be considered. While it generally is assumed that dredged areas will be left barren, it is possible to assess the likely rate of recolonization. The disruption of bottom habitat also can affect feeding and spawning areas for fishes and other organisms. Alteration in local currents and wave transformation processes need to be modeled and their consequences assessed.     

Submarine Sand Resources, Southeastern Virginia-Contributions from Year 9 and Year 10 of Virginia's Continental Margins Program

Virginia's year 9 and year 10 funds from the Continental Shelf Program were used to supplement other work funded by the Minerals Management Service in an ongoing Cooperative Agreement focused on the area offshore of southeastern Virginia. Year 9 and year 10 funds facilitated interpretation of subbottom profiles and the analysis of sediment samples from cores and grabs. On Virginia's sediment-starved continental shelf, deposits of material potentially suitable for use as beach nourishment or, perhaps, as construction aggregate occur in three stratigraphic settings, each with specific characteristics of morphology, grain-size gradients, likelihood of discovery, and physical ease of exploitation. All must be verified with a careful program of coring. Modern shoals generally are easier to identify, prove, and access than either filled channels or lenticular facies. Shoals usually are identifiable on nautical charts and characteristically have a definite lower boundarythat can be seen in subbottom profiles. In most cases, the base of the shoal coincides with the level of the surrounding sea floor. Filled channels are readily identifiable on subbottom profiles but may have a narrow, sinuous form and steep lateral gradients in sediment properties. Buried lenticular facies of good-quality sand usually are found only fortuitously. As the lateral and often vertical gradients in geotechnical properties usually are low, the lenticular facies can be mined with a lesser concern for the consequences of violating the deposit's limits than with the other two types of deposit. There are three types of filled paleochannels in the study area. (1) Relatively near-surface, generally small, roughly shore normal channels most likely mark the migration of tidal inlets across the shelf during the most recent transgression. (2) Small, relatively wide and relatively shallow generally shore parallel channels may be filled back-barrier or lagoonal channels. (3) Larger channels trending across the shelf probably result from riverine flow. The complexity of the seismostratigraphy of the Quaternary deposits on south eastern Virginia's inner continental shelf is a result of series of high-frequency (fifth-order, 10-20,000 y), low-amplitude (20-30 m) variations in sea level that occurred during the last highstand, roughly 80,000 to 130,000 BP. The evidence of the small oscillations in sea level is best seen in the regions that were between the shoreline and wave base, today's inner shelf; however, the very low rates of deposition on the shelf make it difficult to correlate specific reflectors or beds or, at times, to distinguish between fifth-and fourth-order changes. Results for the continuing studies already have been used in the determination to mine several hundred thousand cubic meters of sand from Sandbridge Shoal for use on a Navy-owned facility and in consideration of mining greater quantities of sand from Sandbridge and other shoals for use in local beach nourishment and hurricane protection efforts.     

Seasonal persistence of a small southern California beach fill

Torrey Pines State Beach, a site with large seasonal fluctuations in sand level, received a small shoreface beach fill (about 160,000 m³) in April 2001. The 600 m-long, flat-topped nourishment pad extended from a highway riprap revetment seaward about 60 m, terminating in a 2 m-tall vertical scarp. A 2.7 km alongshore span, centered on the nourishment region, was monitored prior to the nourishment and biweekly to monthly for the following 2 years. For the first 7 months after the nourishment, through fall 2001, significant wave heights were small, and the elevated beach fill remained in place, with little change near and above Mean Sea Level (MSL). In contrast, the shoreline accreted on nearby control beaches following a seasonal pattern common in southern California, reducing the elevation difference between the nourished and adjacent beaches. During the first winter storm (3 m significant wave height), the shoreline retreated rapidly over the entire 2.7 km survey reach, forming an alongshore-oriented sandbar in 3 to 4 m water depth [Seymour, R.J., Guza, R.T., O'Reilly, W., Elgar, S., 2004. Rapid erosion of a Southern California beach fill. Coastal Engineering 52 (2), 151–158.]. We show that the winter sandbar, most pronounced offshore of the nourishment, moved back onto the beach face during summer 2002 (following the usual seasonal pattern) and formed a wider beach above MSL at the site of the original nourishment than on the control beaches. Thus, the April 2001 shoreline nourishment was detectable until late fall 2002, persisting locally over a full seasonal cycle. In an extended 7-year time series, total sand volumes (summed between the back beach and 8 m water depth, over the entire 2.7 km reach) exhibit multi-year fluctuations of unknown origin that are twice as large as the nourishment volume.     

Sedimentology of the New Hampshire Inner Continental Shelf Based on Subbottom Seismics,Side-Scan Sonar,Bathymetry, and Bottom Samples

Typical of glaciated environments, the inner continental shelf of New Hampshire is composed of bedrock outcrops, remnants of glacial deposits (for example, drumlins), sand and gravel deposits, as well as muddier sediments farther offshore. A number of previous studies have defined the general trends of the New Hampshire inner shelf from the coarser deposits nearer the shore to the muddier outer basins. Most recently, a seismic survey (150 km of side-scan sonar and subbottom seismic profiles), as well as bottom sediment sampling (74 stations), has provided a detailed bottom map of the southern New Hampshire shelf area (landward of the 30-m contour). The surficial sediments within this area range from very fine sand to gravel. Bedrock outcrops are common. The seismic survey indicated several large sand deposits exceeding 6-8 m in thickness that occur relatively close to the coast. These sedimentary units, which are within 3 km of the shoreline, are composed of fine to medium sands. Examination of the general morphology and depositional setting indicates at least some of these features are probably relic ebb tidal delta shoals. However, a large eroding drumlin occurs between two of the sand bodies and may represent the source of these deposits. Additional work is needed to verify the origin of these sediment bodies.     

东海陆架中北部沉积物粒度特征及其沉积环境

通过对东海陆架表层沉积物粒级组成、粒度参数、14C年龄和微体古生物组合的综合分析,绘制了东海陆架的沉积物类型分布图;运用Folk等(1970)沉积物分类方法将东海表层沉积物分成砂、粉砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、砂质泥5种类型,其中粉砂质砂分布最广,砂质泥分布最少;沉积物由陆向海粒度变粗,反映沉积过程中的物源和沉积动力控制作用。根据沉积环境及成因分析,可将东海陆架沉积分为3类:分别是长江口外席状砂沉积区、现代泥质沉积区和陆架中部砂质沉积区。长江口外砂质沉积是全新世冰消期晚期潮流作用及风暴潮流共同作用的产物,是高海平面以来太平洋潮波系统作用下的潮流沙沉积,沙波地貌仍在发生变化。现代泥质沉积区包括长江前三角洲沉积、浙闽沿岸流沉积和济州岛西南泥质沉积三个区域,不同沉积区的成因机制不同。陆架中部砂质沉积是末次冰盛期之后海侵作用下发育的砂质沉积物,在海侵的不同阶段中沉积物被冲刷改造,具有不等时性特征,沉积环境与现代陆架海洋环流的动力特征不一致,现代沉积作用较弱,仅接受悬浮体细粒沉积。     

基于Landsat影像的茅尾海河口地貌演变研究

为了揭示茅尾海河口1987~2015年间的地貌格局演变和冲於演变,基于Landsat TM/OLI等多期遥感影像,结合海图、波段比值线性水深反演模型,对28年来茅尾海河口面积变化、地貌类型转换趋势、地貌冲淤演变过程进行了分析。研究结果表明:在1987~2015年间河口面积逐渐缩小;地貌类型转换趋势方面主要表现为潮沟向淤泥滩、河口沙坝的转化,淤泥滩向红树林滩转化;地貌冲淤演变方面,红树林滩淤积面积较大,达20.78km²,淤泥滩的冲刷作用显著,冲刷面积达26.78km²。研究结果可为未来茅尾海资源的开发建设、整治保护提供理论依据。     

Erosive processes on the shore platform of northeast Yorkshire,England

Different processes erode the plane and ramp, the two morphological elements of the shore platform. On the plane, desiccation of the shale causes contraction of the clay lattices in intertidal periods but wetting by the flood tides produces expansion. These movements crack the shale bedding laminae into polygons about 2 cm in diameter which are removed by waves. Desiccation is enhanced in well-drained areas and there is a positive correlation between altitude and erosion rate producing the smooth-sub-horizontal plane. Erosion is highest during summer. It averages 0.1 cm year^?1 but ranges from 0.0 to 0.9 cm year^?1.Corrasion is the main erosive process on the ramp. It is most active during winter, the stormy season, but is influenced by beach depth and possibly grain size. A shallow sand and pebble beach less than 5 cm deep allows erosion at all times. Beach depth is the most important influence on corrasion if it brings the ramp within 5 cm of the surface at some times and buries it more than 13.5 cm deep at others. Wave energy is the most important variable if the beach is usually more than 13.5 cm deep. Erosion rates for the zones of 0–5 cm depth, 5–13.5 cm depth, and greater than 13.5 cm depth were respectively 3.94 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1, 3.26 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1 and 1.13 · 10^?3 cm tide^?1.     

Current countermeasure of beach erosion control and its application in Taiwan

The shoreline of Taiwan is approximately 1100 km long, composed of sandy beach, rocky coast, and reef coast. Almost half of the shoreline has been protected by seawalls, which play an important role for coastal protection and prevent people and infrastructure from coastal hazard. Besides, offshore breakwaters and groynes are also built in the serious erosion coastal shores. All these hard engineering structures made our coastal land safety to some extent at last fifty years. However, until now, the hard engineering structures applied for shore protection do not always work well on all the coasts around Taiwan. Some coastal areas still get eroded seriously with structures being damaged. Furthermore in the recent years, people gradually value the shore protection from different viewpoints, like environment, recreation, and ecology. The objectives of the shore protection are diversified by these new demands.Therefore, the purpose of this study is to evaluate the strategy on how to conjoint soft solutions into the current hard engineering structures for beach erosion control throughout Taiwan coast. Meanwhile, this paper will also introduce environmentally, user-oriented, and technically sound creditable protection works to meet the new trends of shore protection. For application purpose, two local sites in the southwestern Taiwan coast are selected for field experimental study to integrate the proposed soft solution with hard shore protection system at present. Furthermore for coastal management purpose, this paper also collects and analyzes hydro-morphodynamic data around Taiwan in order to identify beach erosion mechanism. Lastly, the results are presented by database and geographic information system.     

近岸人工沙坝保滩促淤的试验研究

借助正态波浪模型,对北戴河海滩某横断面有、无沙坝布置进行了3种水位的极限波高入射试验,测取了坝内外波高过程线及稳定后的断面地形。试验资料及理论分析显示:有无沙坝时沿岸流及波浪的挟沙能力之比与水下沙坝的波浪透射系数的平方成正比,按试验最大透射系数计算的挟沙能力亦可降50%左右,且有沙坝上涌带破波回流对岸滩的冲刷水深可以维持在平均海平面以下1 m内,说明人工沙坝的填筑很大程度促使水体挟带泥沙于掩护区域落淤有效的阻止了泥沙的离岸亏损。试验将为保滩促淤工程设计与实施提供科学依据。     

山东半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸沉积、地貌的横向差异及成因分析———以海阳万米海滩岸段和威海国际海水浴场岸段为例

根据2011年在海阳万米海滩岸段与威海国际海水浴场岸段调查获得的夏、冬两季海岸实测地形剖面与沉积物粒度数据,并收集相关水文资料,对南北两海岸地貌与沉积差异性进行分析,探讨了半岛东部南北岸典型砂质海岸动力环境的差异。研究结果表明,南部海岸宽广平缓,发育滩脊、滩肩、沙波纹等地貌,沉积物在水下岸坡上段以中粗砂、中细砂为主,水下岸坡以下段以粉砂、黏土质粉砂为主;北部海岸地形陡,发育滩肩陡坎、水下沙坝等地貌,沉积物以砾质砂为主。导致这些差异的动力为风、波浪、潮汐及沿岸流堆积。