Study on the growth of wind wave frequency spectra generated by cold waves in the northern East China Sea

The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves

Capillary and capillary-gravity waves possess a random character, and the slope wavenumber spectra of them can be used to represent mean distributions of wave energy with respect to spatial scale of variability. But simple and practical models of the slope wavenumber spectra have not been put forward so far. In this article, we address the accurate definition of the slope wavenumber spectra of water surface capillary and capillary-gravity waves. By combining the existing slope wavenumber models and using the dispersion relation of water surface waves, we derive the slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves. Simultaneously, by using the slope wavenumber models, the dependence of the slope wavenumber spectrum on wind speed is analyzed using data obtained in an experiment which was performed in a laboratory wind wave tank. Generally speaking, the slope wavenumber spectra are influenced profoundly by the wind speed above water surface. The slope wavenumber spectrum increases with wind speed obviously and do not cross each other for different wind speeds. But, for the same wind speed, the slope wavenumber spectra are essentially identical, even though the capillary and capillary-gravity waves are excited at different times and locations. Furthermore, the slope wavenumber spectra obtained from the models agree quite well with experimental results as regards both the values and the shape of the curve.     

A proposed frequency spectrum for fully developed wind waves by revisiting P-M spectrum

It is generally believed that the equilibrium range of wind wave spectrum is in the form of the −4 rather than −5 power law. However, in the widely applied P-M spectrum the equilibrium range is given in the form of −5 power law. In the present paper, a spectrum for full development of wind waves is proposed using the form of the Neumann spectrum, but adopting the −4 power law for the equilibrium range. The proposed spectrum has been verified with NDBC buoy data and could be a substitute for the P-M spectrum.     

WIND WAVES SIMULATION IN THE NORTH AREA OF THE SOUTH CHINA SEA

A third generation wave model was developed to simulate wind waves in the South China Sea near Hong Kong. The model solves the energy conservation equation of the two dimensional wave spectrum by directly computing the nonlinear energy interaction among waves of different frequencies, thus avoiding the imposition of restrictions on the shape of the predicted spectra. The use of an upwind difference scheme in the advective terms produces an artificial diffusion which partly compensates the dispersive effect due to the phase velocity differences among various wave components. The use of a semi-implicit scheme for the source terms together with a special treatment of the high frequency tail of the spectrum allows a large time integration step. Verification of the model was done for wave hindcasting studies under conditions of two typhoons and two cold fronts in the north part of the South China Sea near Hong Kong . The model results agree well with the field measurements except that the presence of a dista     

GENERAL THEORY FOR APPARENT ENERGY DISTRIBUTION OF SEA WAVES

lwrRODUcrIONSeawavesarerecognindasacrucialfaCtorinengineeringandoffshorestruCturede-signsandconstitutCanimPoftantpartintheoreticalstudiesandapplicati0ns.TocopewiththecomPlexityofseawaves,alinearrandomwaveshomogeneousandstationarythe-oryisintrodutalwhereintwomodeIsdescribetheoonnsurfaeedisplacement.Inthefirstone,thesurfaeedisplaerentchangingwithlocationandtheisexpnssedingeneralitalFouriertransform,wherethefrequencyspeCtrumE(co)andwavenumberspodrumEoocanbedefined.Theotherwavemodelisbasedo…     

Interaction of Waves, Surface Currents, and Turbulence： the Application of Surface-Following Coordinate Systems

Surface waves comprise an important aspect of the interaction between the atmosphere and the ocean, so a dynamically consistent framework for modelling atmosphere-ocean interaction must take account of surface waves, either implicitly or explicitly. In order to calculate the effect of wind forcing on waves and currents, and vice versa, it is necessary to employ a consistent formula- tion of the energy and momentum balance within the airflow, wave field, and water column. It is very advantageous to apply sur- face-following coordinate systems, whereby the steep gradients in mean flow properties near the air-water interface in the cross-interface direction may be resolved over distances which are much smaller than the height of the waves themselves. We may account for the waves explicitly by employing a numerical spectral wave model, and applying a suitable theory of wave–mean flow interaction. If the mean flow is small compared with the wave phase speed, perturbation expansions of the hydrodynamic equations in a Lagrangian or generalized Lagrangian mean framework are useful: for stronger flows, such as for wind blowing over waves, the presence of critical levels where the mean flow velocity is equal to the wave phase speed necessitates the application of more general types of surface-following coordinate system. The interaction of the flow of air and water and associated differences in temperature and the concentration of various substances (such as gas species) gives rise to a complex boundary-layer structure at a wide range of vertical scales, from the sub-millimetre scales of gaseous diffusion, to several tens of metres for the turbulent Ekman layer. The bal- ance of momentum, heat, and mass is also affected significantly by breaking waves, which act to increase the effective area of the surface for mass transfer, and increase turbulent diffusive fluxes via the conversion of wave energy to turbulent kinetic energy.     

A wave modulation model of ripples over long surface waves

A study is presented on the modulation of ripples induced by a long surface wave (LW) and a new theoretical modulation model is proposed. In this model, the wind surface stress modulation is related to the modulation of ripple spectrum. The model results show that in the case of LW propagating in the wind direction with the wave age parameter of LW increasing, the area with enhanced shear stress shifts from the region near the LW crest on the upwind slope to the LW trough. With a smaller wave age parameter of LW, the ripple modulation has the maximum on the upwind slope in the vicinity of LW crest, while with a larger parameter the enhancement of ripple spectrum does not occur in that region. At low winds the amplitude of ripple modulation transfer function (MTF) is larger in the gravity wave range, while at moderate or high winds it changes little in the range from short gravity waves to capillary waves.     

Influences of wind on vertical structures of temperature and salinity,and upwelling off Zhejiang coast in summer

In this paper the influences of short-term wind on vertical structures of temperature and salinity, and the upwelling off the Zhejiang coast are studied on the basis of hydrographic data and wind near the coast in Summer (1959–1979). It is pointed out that the variations of vertical distributions of temperature and salinity, and upwelling in this region are closely related to short-term (several days to a week) variation of wind observed. The occurrence of double thermocline, a special oceanographic phenomenon, is partially related to unstable SSW wind field. SSW and NE winds in June are two dynamic factors making intermediate warm water form or disappear. Contribution No. 792 from the Institute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica. This paper was published in Chinese inOceanologia et Limnologia Sinica 14 (1): 14–21, 1983.     

Impacts of internal waves on chlorophyll a distribution in the northern portion of the South China Sea

Internal waves can bring nutrients to the upper level of water bodies and facilitate phytoplankton photosynthesis. Internal waves occur frequently in the northern portion of the South China Sea and inflict an important effect on chlorophyll a distribution. In this study, in-situ observation and satellite remote sensing data were used to study the effects of internal waves on chlorophyll a distribution. Based on the in-situ observations, lower chlorophyll a concentrations were present in the middle and bottom level in areas in which internal waves occur frequently, while the surface chlorophyll a distribution increased irregularly, and a small area with relatively higher chlorophyll a concentrations was observed in the area around the Dongsha Island. Satellite remote sensing showed that the chlorophyll a concentration increased in the area near Dongsha Island, where internal waves frequently occurred. The results of the increased chlorophyll a concentration in the surface water near Dongsha Island in the northern portion of the South China Sea indicated that internal waves could uplift phytoplankton and facilitate phytoplankton growth.     

Energy dissipation through wind-generated breaking waves

Wave breaking is an important process that controls turbulence properties and fluxes of heat and mass in the upper oceanic layer.A model is described for energy dissipation per unit area at the ocean surface attributed to wind-generated breaking waves,in terms of ratio of energy dissipation to energy input,windgenerated wave spectrum,and wave growth rate.Also advanced is a vertical distribution model of turbulent kinetic energy,based on an exponential distribution method.The result shows that energy dissipation rate depends heavily on wind speed and sea state.Our results agree well with predictions of previous works.     

Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images

A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable.     

INTERACTION BETWEEN WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE MOTION AND A JOINT WAVE-TIDE SURGE MODEL

This paper describes in detail the interaction between waves, tides and storm surges and covers theeffects of wave on tides and storm surges and the influence of tides plus storm surges on waves. Some pro-blems deserving attention and improvements are put forward. And finally a combined wave-tide-surge numerical model YE-JWTSM is presented,with all relevant interaction processes considered, includ-ing wave-dependent surface wind stress and bottom-stress as well as current-induced refrac-tion and frequency shift.     

Dynamic performance of a semi-submersible platform subject to wind and waves

By applying experimental and numerical simulations, the motion performance of a semi-submersible platform with mooring positoning system under combined actions of wind and waves is studied. The numerical simulation is conducted by the method of nonlinear time domain coupled analysis, and the mooring forces are calculated by the piecewise extrapolating method. The scale in the model experiment is 1:100, and the mooring system of the model is designed with the method of equivalent water-depth truncation by comparing the numerical and the experimental results, the platform motion and mooring forces subject to wind and waves are investigated. The results indicate that the numerically simulated mooring forces agree well with the experimental results in static equivalent field, but show some difference in dynamic equivalent field; the numerically simulated platform motions coincide well with the experimental results. The maximum motion of the platform under operating conditions is 20.5 m. It means that the horizontal displacement is 2% less than the water depth, which satisfies the operating requirements.     

Nonlinear interactions among internal tidal waves in the northeastern South China Sea

We used a set of 75-day long ADCP data from the northeastern South China Sea (SCS) to investigate nonlinear interactions among freely propagating internal tidal waves. The kinetic energy spectra displayed significant peaks at some higher tidal frequencies, such as O₁M₂ (O₁+M₂), and M₄ (M₂+M₂), where O₁ is the lunar diurnal internal tide, M₂ is the lunar semidiurnal internal tide, and M₄ is the first higher harmonic frequency of M₂. These higher tidal harmonic frequency peaks, as well as the fundamental tidal harmonic peaks, show a σ ^−2.3 spectral falloff rate with frequency. In addition, we explored the possible generation mechanism of higher tidal harmonics. Analysis on the rotary and bicoherence spectra suggests that strong forced non-resonant interaction induced by nonlinear advections was the dominant physical mechanism that induced these higher tidal harmonics. Moreover, the energetic, freely propagating semidiurnal (M₂) internal tidal wave played the most crucial role in these interactions. These results indicate that strong nonlinear forced non-resonant interactions among internal tides can be one of the processes responsible for the redistribution of energy in the internal wave spectrum.     

The influence of the sea-air heat exchange over the Kuroshio in the East China Sea in winter on the precipitation in the middle and lower reaches of Changjiang River in flood season

In this paper, the sea-air heat exchange over the Kuroshio in the East China Sea during the winters of 1954–1972 is computed and analysed. The results indicate that the year to year anomalies of sea-air heat exchange are obvious and the values are mainly controlled by the intensity of the cold air at the same time. The authors have found a close relationship between sea-air heat exchange and precipitation in the region of the Changjiang River during the early summer. Finally, the predicting indication for forecasting this precipitation around the middle and lower reaches of Changjiang River in June is given. Contribution No. 839 from the Institute of Oceanology, Academia Sinica. This paper was published in Chinese inOceanologia et Limnologia Sinica 14 (3): 256–262, 1983.     

Origin and evolution of the entrance sandbars in the south passage of the Changjiang river stuary

Based on the long-term hydrological and sedimental data and the hydrolographic charts of more than 100 years, comprehensive analyses and studies have been made on the river runoff, sediment, tides and waves outside the Changjiang river estuary. Origin and siltation characteristics of the entrance sandbars, recent evolution tendency of the planar axis of the, passage and the decreasing capacity of the fluvial channel are also described in this paper, which can provide basic information necessary for the realignment of the sea-traffic channel through the area. This paper was published in Chinese inOcean. Limn. Sinica 14 (6): 582–590, 1983.     

INTERNAL TIDES, SOLITARY WAVES AND BORES IN SHALLOW SEAS

Remote sensing and in situ observations of internal tides, solitary waves and bores in shallow water are briefly reviewed in this paper. The emphasis is laid on interpreting SAR images based on oceanographic measurements, and analyzing characteristics of internal waves in the China Seas. Direc-tions for future research are discussed.     

Systems of agriculture farming in the Uttranchal Himalaya,India

Agricultural practices are the main stay of the people of Uttranchal. Out of the total population,more than 75% people are engaged either with the main occupation of agriculture or its allied practices,dominated by traditional subsistence cereal farming.Among them, the main crops are rice, wheat, millet,barley, all types of pulses, all types of oilseeds and almost all types of fruits. The crops, vegetables and fruits of all varieties are grown in the different climatic zones such as tropical, temperate, and cold because, the region is characterized by the different altitudinal zones elevated from 200 m to more than 8000m. As a result, different climates are found from hot tropical to sub temperate and chilly cold. Pulses varieties are grown extensively. Among vegetables,potato, onion, carrot, all types of green leaf vegetables,brinzal, pumpkin, ladyfinger, pea, gram, radish,ginger, garlic, etc, are grown widely. All fruit varieties are grown in the different altitudinal zones. The mainfruits are orange, malta (a big size of orange),elephant citrus, lemon and all other types of citrus,apple, stone fruits including peach and pears, manykinds of nuts, and the fruits which are grown in the low lying areas. In spite of feasible climatic conditions,agricultural dominant society, and availability of all types of crops, the production and productivity of these crops are very low, even they are unable to meet the grain-need of the people in Uttaranchal. Agricultural crops are grown almost in all the altitudinal zones -- from the low-lying areas, which are called ‘Ga. ngarh‘, to the highly elevated region,where the legendary term is given as ‘Danda‘. The growing seasons vary according to the heights. The present paper aims to discuss the agricultural practices including cropping season, cropping pattern,land use, production of cropsagricultural system in thisand ecological aspect of Himalayan state and suggest some measures for developing farming system,which could lead the sustainability, in terms of meeting the food grain needs of the people on the one hand and restoring the ecological balance on the other.