Short-term variations and influencing factors of suspended sediment concentrations at the Heisha Beach,Guangdong, China

Knowledge of sediment variation processes is essential to understand the evolution mechanism of beach morphology changes. Thus, a field measurement was conducted at the Heisha Beach, located on the west coast of the Zhujiang River(Pearl River) Estuary, to investigate the short-term variation in suspended sediment concentrations(SSCs) and the relationship between the SSC and turbulent kinetic energy, bottom shear stress(BSS), and relative wave height. Based on extreme event analysis results, extr...     

海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物与海滩稳定性分析

海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。     

岬间海滩泥沙输运趋势与剖面分形研究

根据1999年7月实测的粤东岬间海滩沉积与地形变化资料,采用沉积物输运概率模式(McLaren模型)对海滩沿岸泥沙运移趋势进行探讨。结果表明,在常波况条件下海滩沿岸泥沙向偏南方向运移,在高能条件下可能出现与常波况条件下相反运动的趋势。进一步利用分形分布模型研究了海滩剖面的分形性质,提出了岬间海滩剖面地形变化的短期分形预测模型。     

粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

不同受损情况下珊瑚礁海岸动力地貌差异性分析

探索珊瑚礁与海滩地貌之间动力地貌联系是认识珊瑚礁海岸变化的重要一环.本文以雷州半岛徐闻西落港珊瑚礁海岸为研究对象,应用RTK-GPS和无人船开展岸滩剖面和近岸水下地形的测量、结合海滩沉积物分析,基于FUNWAVE-TVD数值模型模拟并分析不同珊瑚礁地形地貌条件下波浪动力传播过程.结果显示,研究区珊瑚礁水下地形是影响礁后...     

The effects of sediment characteristics and wave height on shape-parameter for representing equilibrium beach profiles

The shape parameter helps determining the shape of equilibrium beach profile in terms of offshore distance and water depth. The shape parameter therefore, should represent the effect of all the environmental factors involved in beach profile formation, such as wave climate and sediment properties. However, all the previous studies carried out to define shape parameter only consider the effects of sediment characteristics in their definitions. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate also in the definition of shape parameter. This is achieved by integrating wave energy dissipation rate per unit volume at the surf zone. The result yields equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate that leads to theoretical definition of equilibrium beach profiles involving the effects of both the grain size and the wave climate parameters. It is found that the sediment grain size and the incoming wave height affect the value of shape parameter; whereas, the effects of wave period can be neglected. By means of energy equation, it is also possible to observe in macro scale the strength of wave energy on beach profile for different grain sizes. The findings also bring about the possibility of defining shape parameter such that any two arbitrary beach profiles owning the same sediment grain sizes can have the opportunity to have different beach profile formations. Finally, by adding the effect of wave height in the definition of shape parameter the graphical representation of the parameter, previously given by Moore (1982) is improved herein.     

Alongshore Sediment Transport Near Tidal Inlets of Chilika Lagoon; East Coast of India

ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.     

Beach profiles characteristics along Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts, Vietnam: A field study

Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts are located in Nam Dinh province, Vietnam, with a total coastline of 54.42 km in length. The sea-dike system has been seriously damaged and there have been many dike breaches which caused floods and losses. This situation is considered of a general representative for coastal area in the northern part of Vietnam. A variety of studies have shown that the gradient in the longshore sediment transport rate and the offshore ?ne sediment lost are the main mechanisms causing the beach erosion. This study presents a field investigation of the beach profiles at Giao Thuy and Hai Hau beaches. Three types of empirical functions for the equilibrium beach profile are applied and compared with the observations. Results show that all observed beach pro?les can be described by a single function. However, one specific equilibrium pro?le equation is not sufficient to assess all beach pro?les. In Section 1 of Giao Thuy and Section 3 of Hai Thinh beaches, beach profiles are consistent with the logarithmic function, while the exponential function fits well in Section 2. This difference is explained with respect to coastal morphology, sediment characteristics and hydrodynamic conditions which vary in site. An analysis of the validity of the beach profile functions is recommended for the numerical modeling and engineering designs in this area.     

Physical impact on the reclamation area resulting from offshore dredging at the Changhwa coast, Taiwan

The physical impact of offshore dredging on the reclamation area at the Changhwa coast, Taiwan, is investigated using a three-dimensional movable-bed model test. A distorted modeling law consisting of maintaining similarity of the equilibrium beach profile between the model and prototype is proposed. The geometric distortion was verified through a series of preliminary experiments conducted in a wave flume. Experimental results show that the distorted modeling is able to reproduce the beach-face slope in nature. An appropriate long-term morphological time-scale was determined based on a comparison of model longshore littoral transport rates and equivalent prototype values. Seabed topographical changes before and after offshore dredging are evaluated in model tests. A suitable countermeasure to prevent beach erosion from wave attack along the reclamation area is suggested from the experimental results.     

A new model for predicting three-dimensional beach changes by expanding Hsu and Evans' equation

The empirical bay shape model proposed by Hsu and Evans in 1989 for predicting the static planform of a pocket beach is expanded to enable the calculation of three-dimensional beach changes on a pocket beach with a seawall. The original formulation was developed on the basis of a second-order regression analysis. Unlike the one-line model of shoreline changes, the model of Hsu and Evans does not require repeated calculations of the wave field and shoreline position, because it was derived on the assumption of null sediment movement within a pocket beach in static equilibrium, hence without the need of applying the continuity condition of total sand volume in the calculation. The expanded model proposed by the present authors satisfies the total sand budget on a pocket beach, by taking into account the concept of depth change due to longshore sand transport. Model tests were carried out and the new model was further applied to the beach changes at Kemigawa on the northeast of Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, as well as at Oarai in Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan. On both locations, seawall has been installed as countermeasures against beach erosion, where wave sheltering effect of the main breakwater and beach changes in front of the seawall has also been observed. With this expansion, the present model can be applied to predict the three-dimensional beach changes on a coast with seawall on a pocket beach.     

厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应

根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。     

东海岛东北部砂质岸滩年度冲淤变化及沉积物运移分析

东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。     

不同沉积物养护海滩对台风响应的差异性研究

本文通过对厦门天泉湾人工卵石滩和会展人工沙滩在1614“莫兰蒂”超强台风影响前后的典型剖面监测，结合水文动力要素的观测和数值模拟，计算了台风影响过程的波浪场、总水位，分析了剖面形态和台风过程的剖面平均变化量。结果表明，强潮海岸人工卵石滩与人工沙滩对台风响应的特征明显不同，人工卵石滩横向上大部分卵石向岸输移堆积，滩面侵蚀，滩肩堆积形成更高的风暴滩肩，坡度明显变陡。而人工沙滩则表现为明显的沉积物离岸输运，上部滩面侵蚀，下部滩面淤积，滩面坡度明显变缓，受台风登陆后的强烈向岸风作用，滩肩顶有所夷平，滩肩高度变化很小。海滩滩肩在台风过程中是否侵蚀与台风登陆和影响过程的总水位(天文潮、风暴增水、波浪爬高)密切相关，两个人工海滩的风暴响应模式均为冲蚀；台风影响过程中，波浪能量相对强、滩面坡度相对陡的人工卵石滩比人工沙滩的剖面平均变化量小，对于台风的响应程度小，在强侵蚀高能海岸采用砾石等粗粒径沉积物进行海滩养护是减缓砂质海滩侵蚀的一种有效手段。     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。     

An experimental study on geometric characteristics of beach erosion profiles

The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H₀=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d₅₀=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations.     

季节性波浪动力作用下南湾弧形岸滩泥沙横向输运特征

响应季节性波候作用的泥沙输运特征是研究弧形海滩地貌变化及港工建筑的重要内容。基于南湾弧形海滩实际测量的冬、夏各11条剖面高程变化资料,将其划分为低潮间带、低中潮带、中潮带、高潮间带、低冲流带、中冲流带及其海滩后滨等7带,在此基础上利用经验正交函数(EOF)方法对各个带的体积变化进行分析,结果表明:1)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙以单向输运为主,并具有季节性变化特征,其中冬季泥沙在东南浪作用下,自陆向海输运,夏季泥沙在西南浪作用下自海向陆输运;2)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙分别在高潮带与中潮带、低冲流带与中冲流带之间存在频繁的双向输运;3)南湾弧形海滩不同岸段泥沙的横向输运因岬角的遮蔽能力、地形以及波浪作用的方向而有所差异。     

粉沙质海岸泥沙运动特性研究

文章对粉沙质海岸的泥沙运动特性进行了系统、全面的研究.从5个方面进行了论述:粉沙质海岸的界定、泥沙基本水力特性、泥沙运移型态、航道骤淤的统计特性和航道淤积计算.提出粉沙质海岸的界定应综合考虑泥沙平均中值粒径、黏土含量和泥沙粒径分选性三方面因素;泥沙基本水力特性是起动流速小、沉降速度大、沉积密实快,泥沙运动十分活跃;泥沙...     

台风"艾利"对福建沙质海滩影响过程研究

通过对福建沙质海滩地形地貌现场调查,对比分析0418号台风“艾利”登陆福建前后各沙滩剖面的蚀淤变化,探讨了福建沙滩对台风“艾利”响应规律。研究结果表明,2004年8月底台风“艾利”过境期间,福建沿海砂质海岸显出了较强烈的地貌响应。沙滩剖面地形变化,冲淤相间,以冲蚀为主;后滨沙丘蚀退、滩肩蚀低、岸线向陆迁移是地貌响应的主要特征;沙滩沉积物的总收支趋于亏损。不同海岸类型的沙滩剖面对台风“艾利”的响应特征不同。岬湾型沙滩剖面地貌响应以前滨滩面侵蚀为主要特征。夷直型的长乐江田下沙剖面,对“艾利”台风的主要地貌响应特征为后滨沙丘、高潮带侵蚀,岸线后退超过16m,出现高度近1 m的直立侵蚀陡坎。沙坝-泻湖型沙滩剖面冲淤变化的主要特征是中潮带形成次一级沙坝。各沙滩的地貌风暴效应有自北往南依次减弱的趋势。     

楮岛沙滩不同时间尺度变化特征与波能流密度相关性探讨

在波浪和水流的作用下,泥沙在不同时间尺度下的运动会引起沙滩的冲淤演变,对海岸资源有重要的影响。因此,了解沙滩季节性演变规律,并采取针对性的防护措施,是近岸沙滩亟须解决的问题。目前,现场观测是研究沙滩剖面冲淤演变的重要方法,通过沉积物组成、岸滩坡度及波浪动力的时空变化,了解沙滩剖面的变化特性,对于沙滩管理和海岸保护具有十分重要的意义。基于2017年9月—2019年11月在荣成楮岛南岸沙滩每个月采集一次的剖面数据,以及波浪动力数据,分别探究了沙滩在不同时间尺度下的变化特征,并对沙滩变化特征与波浪动力因素的相关性进行了探讨。研究发现：楮岛南岸沙滩形态变化具有较强的季节性特征,春季沙滩比较稳定;夏季沙滩受台风影响侵蚀严重,但在风暴过后的短时间内,沙滩泥沙恢复较快;冬季沙滩恢复速度逐渐减缓并趋于稳定。在夏季和冬季期间,波能流密度的向岸分量对楮岛南沙滩的演变产生重要作用,而且波能流密度向岸分量的均值（选取数据采集前15 d的波浪条件参与计算）与沙滩体积的相关性最好,并给出了两者的线性拟合公式。