Near-surface flow structure over wind-generated water waves,part I: wave-induced flow characteristics

We report on an experimental study conducted to investigate the influence of small-scale wind waves on the airflow structure in the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface. PIV technique was used to measure the two-dimensional velocity fields at wind speeds of 3.7 and 4.4 m?s^?1 and at a fetch of 2.1 m. The flow structure was analyzed as a function of wave phase. In the near-surface region, significant variations were observed in the flow structure over the waveform. The phase-averaged profiles of velocity, vorticity, and Reynolds stress showed different behavior on the windward and leeward sides of the wave in the near-surface region. The influence of wave-induced velocity was restricted within a distance of three significant wave heights from the surface, which also showed opposite trends on the windward and leeward sides of the crest. The results also show that the turbulent Reynolds stress mainly supports downward momentum transfer whereas the wave-induced Reynolds stress is responsible for the upward momentum transfer from wave to wind. In the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface, the momentum is transferred from waves to wind along the windward side, whereas, the momentum transfer is from wind to waves along the leeward side.     

Near-surface flow structure over wind-generated water waves,part II: characteristics of separated and non-separated flows

We report on an experimental study conducted to investigate the influence of small-scale wind waves on the airflow structure in the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface. PIV technique was used to measure the two-dimensional velocity fields at wind speeds of 3.7 and 4.4 m s⁻¹ and at a fetch of 2.1 m. The flow structure was analyzed as a function of wave phase. In the near-surface region, significant variations were observed in the flow structure over the waveform. The phase-averaged profiles of velocity, vorticity, and Reynolds stress showed different behavior on the windward and leeward sides of the wave in the near-surface region. The influence of wave-induced velocity was restricted within a distance of three significant wave heights from the surface, which also showed opposite trends on the windward and leeward sides of the crest. The results also show that the turbulent Reynolds stress mainly supports downward momentum transfer whereas the wave-induced Reynolds stress is responsible for the upward momentum transfer from wave to wind. In the immediate vicinity of the air–water interface, the momentum is transferred from waves to wind along the windward side, whereas, the momentum transfer is from wind to waves along the leeward side.     

Numerical modelling of wind effects on breaking waves in the surf zone

Wind effects on periodic breaking waves in the surf zone have been investigated in this study using a two-phase flow model. The model solves the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the k ? ?? turbulence model simultaneously for the flows both in the air and water. Both spilling and plunging breakers over a 1:35 sloping beach have been studied under the influence of wind, with a focus during wave breaking. Detailed information of the distribution of wave amplitudes and mean water level, wave-height-to-water-depth ratio, the water surface profiles, velocity, vorticity, and turbulence fields have been presented and discussed. The inclusion of wind alters the air flow structure above water waves, increases the generation of vorticity, and affects the wave shoaling, breaking, overturning, and splash-up processes. Wind increases the water particle velocities and causes water waves to break earlier and seaward, which agrees with the previous experiment.     

Gravity wave reflection: Case study based on rocket data

Since gravity waves significantly influence the atmosphere by transporting energy and momentum, it is important to study their wave spectrum and their energy dissipation rates. Besides that, knowledge about gravity wave sources and the propagation of the generated waves is essential. Originating in the lower atmosphere, gravity waves can move upwards; when the background wind field is equal to their phase speed a so-called critical layer is reached. Their breakdown and deposition of energy and momentum is possible. Another mechanism which can take place at critical layers is gravity wave reflection.In this paper, gravity waves which were observed by foil chaff measurements during the DYANA (DYnamics Adapted Network for the Atmosphere) campaign in 1990 in Biscarrosse (44°N, 1°W)—as reported by Wüst and Bittner [2006. Non-linear wave–wave interaction: case studies based on rocket data and first application to satellite data. Journal of Atmospheric and Solar-Terrestrial Physics 68, 959–976]—are investigated to look for gravity wave reflection processes. Following nonlinear theory, energy dissipation rates according to Weinstock [1980. Energy dissipation rates of turbulence in the stable free atmosphere. Journal of the Atmospheric Sciences 38, 880–883] are calculated from foil chaff cloud and falling sphere data and compared with the critical layer heights. Enhanced energy dissipation rates are found at those altitudes where the waves’ phase speed matches the zonal background wind speeds. Indication of gravity wave trapping is found between two altitudes of around 95 and 86 km.     

Examining the physical components of boundary shear stress for water‐worked gravel deposits

It is argued in this commentary that, in order to understand better the physical mechanisms that generate boundary shear stress over water‐worked gravel beds, flow velocity data should be re‐evaluated by spatial averaging the Reynolds equations to produce time‐ and space‐averaged (double‐averaged) momentum equations. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in which the flow velocities were measured using a PIV system over two water‐worked gravel deposits. Combined with detailed data on the bed surface topography and vertical porosity, the physical components of shear stress were obtained. This enabled the various momentum transfer mechanisms present above, within and at the interface of a porous, fluvial deposit, to be quantified. This included the examination of the relevant contributions of temporal and spatial fluctuations in velocity and surface drag to the overall momentum transfer. It is demonstrated that double‐averaging represents a logical framework for assessing the fluid forces responsible for sediment entrainment and for investigating intragravel flow and sediment–water interface exchange mechanisms within the roughness layer in water‐worked gravel deposits. By considering the physical components of shear stress and their relative sizes it was possible to provide a physically based explanation for existing observations of enhanced mobility of gravel–sand mixtures and the transfer of solutes into porous, gravel deposits. This analysis reveals the importance of obtaining co‐located, high quality spatial data on the flow field and bed surface topography in order to gain a physical understanding of the mechanisms which generate boundary shear stress. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Enhanced turbulent mixing induced by strong wind on the South China Sea shelf

Integrated observations were made on the South China Sea shelf at 19°37’ N, 112°04’ E, under strong wind and heavy raining weather conditions in August 2005. Current data were obtained using a moored 150-kHz Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler, turbulent kinetic energy dissipation rate were measured with TurboMapII, and temperature was recorded by thermistor chains. Both the mixed layer thickness and the corresponding mean dissipation rate increased after the strong wind bursts. Average surface mixed layer thickness was 13.4 m pre-wind and 22.4 m post-wind, and the average turbulent dissipation rate in the mixed layer pre-wind and post-wind were 4.26 × 10^?7 and 1.09 × 10^?6 Wkg^?1, respectively. The post-wind dissipation rate was 2.5 times larger than the pre-wind dissipation rate in the interior layer and four times larger in the intermediate water column. Spectra and vertical mode analysis revealed that near-inertial motion post-wind, especially with high modes, was strengthened and propagated downward toward the intermediate layer. The downward group velocity of near-inertial current was about 8.1 × 10^?5 ms^?1 during the strong wind bursts. The mean percentage of wind work transmitted into the intermediate layer is about 4.2 %. The ratio of post-wind high-mode energy to total horizontal kinetic energy increased below the surface mixed layer, which would have caused instabilities and result in turbulent mixing. Based on these data, we discuss a previous parameterization that relates dissipation rate, stratification, and shear variance calculated from baroclinic currents with high modes (higher than mode 1) which concentrate a large fraction of energy.     

Wave energy input into the Ekman layer

This paper is concerned with the wave energy input into the Ekman layer, based on 3 observational facts that surface waves could significantly affect the profile of the Ekman layer. Under the assumption of constant vertical diffusivity, the analytical form of wave energy input into the Ekman layer is derived. Analysis of the energy balance shows that the energy input to the Ekman layer through the wind stress and the interaction of the Stokes-drift with planetary vorticity can be divided into two kinds. One is the wind energy input, and the other is the wave energy input which is dependent on wind speed, wave characteristics and the wind direction relative to the wave direction. Estimates of wave energy input show that wave energy input can be up to 10% in high-latitude and high-wind speed areas and higher than 20% in the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, compared with the wind energy input into the classical Ekman layer. Results of this paper are of significance to the study of wave-induced large scale effects.     

Turbulence fields in the lee of two‐dimensional transverse dunes simulated in a wind tunnel

The turbulence field of airflow in the lee of a dune has significant impacts on dune dynamics and related processes. We used particle image velocimetry in a wind tunnel simulation to obtain detailed velocity measurements in the lee of two‐dimensional transverse dune models, then used the results to analyse their turbulence fields. The dune models used in this study had a single lee angle of 30°, and a total of six stoss angles: 3°, 5°, 10°, 15°, 20° and 25°. We used vorticity, turbulence intensity, Reynolds stress and turbulent kinetic energy to characterize the turbulence fields. These parameters were functions of stoss angle, wind velocity, distance from the dune crest and height above the ground surface. The stoss angles could generally be divided into two groups based on the profiles of mean velocity, turbulence and Reynolds stress. Stoss angles of 3° and 5° usually had similar profiles, and angles of 15°, 20° and 25° formed a second group with similar profiles. The profiles for the stoss angle of 10° were usually transitional and were intermediate between the two groups. Vorticity, Reynolds stress and turbulent kinetic energy increased monotonically with increasing free‐stream wind velocity, but their variations with respect to the stoss angle were complex. The stoss angles of 15° and 20° had the maximum values of these three parameters, thus these angles may have special significance in dune development given the characteristics of the mean velocity fields and turbulence fields they produce within the lee airflow. It is the streamwise velocity component and its turbulence that determine the surface shear stress. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd.     

Why ripples become sweiis,and swells in shallow water decay rapidly

Abstract

In an ocean with a horizontal bottom where no wind is blowing it is shown that the spin (angular momentum) of the ocean is conserved. Thus, when energy is dissipated, at least one of three things will happen: i) Wave spectra may move towards lower frequencies. ii) The directional distribution may be changed towards long-crested waves. iii) Shear currents may be generated. By neglecting ii) and iii), the frequency shift of a spectrum is calculated due to molecular dissipation. When all energy transforming phenomena as e.g. wave breaking and turbulence generation are taken into account, the conservation of spin seems to be able to explain the frequency shift of wave spectra. In shallow water it is shown that there is energy transfer from the waves to shear currents.     

A note on Stokes production of turbulence kinetic energy in the oceanic mixed layer: observations in the Baltic Sea

Shear- and convection-driven turbulence coexists with wind-generated surface gravity waves in the upper ocean. The turbulent Reynolds stresses in the oceanic mixed layer can therefore interact with the shear of the wave-generated Stokes drift velocity to extract energy from the surface waves and inject it into turbulence, thus augmenting the mean shear-driven turbulence. Stokes production of turbulence kinetic energy (TKE) is difficult to measure in the field, since it requires simultaneous measurement of the turbulent stress and the Stokes drift profiles in the water column. However, it is readily inferred using second moment closure models of the oceanic mixed layer provided: (1) wave properties are available, along with the usual water mass properties, and radiative and air–sea fluxes needed to drive the mixed layer model and (2) the model skill can be assessed by comparing the model results against the observed dissipation rates of TKE. Comprehensive measurements made during the Reynolds 2002 campaign in the Baltic Sea have made the estimation of Stokes production possible, and in this paper, we report on the effort and the conclusions reached. Measurements of air–sea exchange parameters and water mass properties during the campaign allowed a mixed layer model to be run and the turbulent stress in the water column to be inferred. Simultaneous wave spectrum measurements enabled Stokes drift profile to be deduced and wave breaking to be included in the model run, and the Stokes production of TKE in the water column estimated. Direct measurements of the TKE dissipation rate from an upward traversing microstructure profiler were used to assure that the model could reproduce the turbulent dissipation rate in the water column. The model results indicate that the Stokes production of TKE in the mixed layer is of the same order of magnitude as the shear production and must therefore be included in mixed layer models.     

太阳风湍流和磁层亚暴的一种机制

太阳风的动量涨落将通过磁层边界在磁尾激发磁流体力学波。快磁声波携带扰动能量传到等离子体片中,发展为激波,或者通过激波的相互作用而耗散能量,使等离子体加热。等离子体片中的随机费米加速机制,使麦克斯韦分布尾巴部分的高能量粒子被加速到更高能。在宁静态时,加热、加速与耗散过程平衡。当太阳风的动量或者其涨落较大时,整个加热和加速过程加剧,更多的高能粒子产生,并从等离子体片中逃逸,形成高速的等离子体流注入近地轨道和极区,表现为磁层亚暴过程。利用这种机制,可以解释地球磁层亚暴的定性特征。     

Measurements of Reynolds stress in a wind-driven lagoonal estuary

Acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) have been used to measure Reynolds stresses in tidally dominated environments where wave action was minimal. In this paper, we examine observations from a microtidal estuary where the effects of wind stress and surface waves dominate the velocity variance. Reynolds stress measurements in this setting require a technique for addressing surface gravity wave contamination. We present here a method of reducing the effect of wave motion on Reynolds stresses by subtracting coincident observations along the axis of the ADCP beam. Linear wave theory is used to account for the attenuation of wave orbital velocities with depth. Using this method, Reynolds stress values are brought in line with those predicted by drag laws at the surface and bottom. The apparent Reynolds stress that is removed by the along-axis subtraction is shown to be largely due to the interaction of a slight tilt (1°) in the ADCP and the wave orbital velocity. During periods of stronger wind and waves, there is evidence of enhanced near-surface turbulence and momentum flux, presumably due to breaking waves. During these events, our calculated Reynolds stress magnitudes still appear reasonable, although the directions are suspect. We develop a diagnostic technique that clearly demarcates this region when it occurs. Coincident density profile measurements are used with the ADCP data to compute gradient Richardson numbers throughout the water column. Enhanced Reynolds stresses appear to correspond to Richardson numbers less than one. Responsible editor: Alejandro Souza     

Bagnold's kink: A physical feature of a wind velocity profile modified by blown sand?

Bagnold (1941) made detailed measurements of the wind profile modified by blown sand. He noted that each velocity profile appeared to be kinked and suggested that the position of the kink corresponded to the height at which an average or a characteristic trajectory extracted the bulk of its momentum from the wind. However, Anderson and Haff (1988) have shown that in aeolian sand transport the grain cloud is made up from a distribution of trajectory paths and that it was an over-simplification to attempt to describe the complex behaviour of the grain cloud in terms of a single representative trajectory. These recent developments leave the nature and even the existence of the kink observed by Bagnold (1941) open to question. This paper shows that a kink is indeed a physical feature of the modified wind velocity profile and that it is caused, as Bagnold (1941) suggested, by a maximum, occurring at some height above the surface, in the momentum extracted by the grains from the wind. Further comments are made on both the form of the modified wind velocity profile and the fluid shear stress profile in the grain layer. In particular these comments, based upon a theoretical analysis, suggest an experimental means to measure the mean surface fluid shear stress and to gain, from accurately measured wind profiles, a greater insight into the grain cloud which caused the modification.     

Parametrization of momentum and energy depositions from gravity waves generated by tropospheric hydrodynamic sources

The mechanism of generation of internal gravity waves (IGW) by mesoscale turbulence in the troposphere is considered. The equations that describe the generation of waves by hydrodynamic sources of momentum, heat and mass are derived. Calculations of amplitudes, wave energy fluxes, turbulent viscosities, and accelerations of the mean flow caused by IGWs generated in the troposphere are made. A comparison of different mechanisms of turbulence production in the atmosphere by IGWs shows that the nonlinear destruction of a primary IGW into a spectrum of secondary waves may provide additional dissipation of nonsatu-rated stable waves. The mean wind increases both the effectiveness of generation and dissipation of IGWs propagating in the direction of the wind. Competition of both effects may lead to the dominance of IGWs propagating upstream at long distances from tropospheric wave sources, and to the formation of eastward wave accelerations in summer and westward accelerations in winter near the mesopause.     

Planetary Boundary Layer Flows in the Atmosphere and the Ocean at the Equator

—The boundary layer flows created by the frictional dissipation of the wind speed at the surface in the atmosphere and by surface wind stress in the ocean at the equator and in the equatorial region, are obtained by taking the influence of the surface friction on the zonal velocity as being balanced by vertical transport for the long-term mean flow and by a corresponding time variation for time-dependent flow fields. Solutions are expressed in terms of the velocities in zonal and vertical directions and the divergence of the horizontal current in the two media. It is found that under the ever present easterly flow in the lower atmosphere, the boundary layer flow in the atmosphere is convergence and ascending motion in the lower troposphere, and divergence at the surface and uplift in ocean, and in reverse directions for the westerly flow. Similar results are obtained for time-dependent wind fields and they give way to the steady asymptotic solutions when the period of the variation exceeds 10 months.     

A three-dimensional model study of near-inertial motion: generation and influence of an along-shelf flow

A three-dimensional baroclinic model of the Balearic Sea region is used to examine the processes influencing the distribution of near-inertial currents and waves in the region. Motion is induced by a spatially uniform wind impulse. By using a uniform wind, Ekman pumping due to spatial variability in the wind is removed with the associated generation of internal waves. However, internal waves can still be produced where stratification intersects topography. The generation and propagation of these waves, together with the spatial distribution of wind-forced inertial oscillations, are examined in detail. Diagnostic calculations show that in the near-coastal region inertial oscillations are inhibited by the coastal boundary. Away from this boundary the magnitude of the inertial oscillations increases, with currents showing a 180° phase shift in the vertical. The inclusion of an along-shelf flow modifies the inertial currents due to non-linear interaction between vorticity in the flow and the inertial oscillations. Prognostic calculations show that besides inertial oscillations internal waves are generated. In a linear model the addition of an along-shelf flow produces a slight reduction in the energy at the near-inertial frequency due to enhanced viscosity associated with the flow and changes in density field. The inclusion of non-linear effects modifies the currents due to inertial oscillations in a manner similar to that found in the diagnostic model. A change in the effective inertial frequency also influences the propagation of the internal waves. However, this does not appear to be the main reason for the enhanced damping of inertial energy, which is due to the along-shelf advection of water of a different density into a region and increased viscosity and mixing associated with the along-shelf flow.Responsible Editor: Phil Dyke     

Hydrodynamic constraints and storm wave characteristics on a sub‐horizontal shore platform

Few studies of wave processes on shore platforms have addressed the hydrodynamic thresholds that control wave transformation and energy dissipation, especially under storm conditions. We present results of a field experiment conducted during a storm on a sub‐horizontal shore platform on the east coast of Auckland, New Zealand. Small (<0.5 m) locally generated waves typically occur at the field site, whereas during the experiment the offshore wave height reached 2.3 m. Our results illustrate the important control that platform morphology has on wave characteristics. At the seaward edge of the platform a scarp abruptly descends beneath low tide level. Wave height immediately seaward of the platform was controlled by the incident conditions, but near the cliff toe wave height on the platform was independent of incident conditions. Results show that a depth threshold at the seaward platform edge > 2.5 times the gravity wave height (0.05–0.33 Hz) is necessary for waves to propagate onto the platform without breaking. On the platform surface the wave height is a direct function of water depth, with limiting maximum wave height to water depth ratios of 0.55 and 0.78 at the centre of the platform and cliff toe, respectively. A relative ‘platform edge submergence’ (water depth/water height ratio) threshold of 1.1 is identified, below which infragravity (<0.05 Hz) wave energy dominates the platform energy spectra, and above which gravity waves are dominant. Infragravity wave height transformation across the platform is governed by the relative platform edge submergence. Finally, the paper describes the first observations of wave setup on a shore platform. During the peak of the storm, wave setup on the platform at low tide (0.21 m) is consistent with measurements from planar sandy beaches, but at higher tidal stages the ratio between incident wave height and maximum setup was lower than expected. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The vortex created by mass transfer between layers of a rotating fluid

Abstract

A simple way to model stratification of the ocean or atmosphere is in terms of two superposed homogeneous layers of different density. Effects of cooling of the upper layer, such as that which occurs during bottom-water formation in the ocean, can be simulated by mass transfer from the upper layer to the lower layer. A model is constructed to see What effect such a mass transfer has on the flow when the mass transfer is confined to a limited region. The main effects are (i) doming of the interface, which maintains pressure gradients in balance with the velocity field, (ii) cyclonic rotation in the upper layer due to conservation of angular momentum of particles king drawn toward the sink, yet anticyclonic vorticity for those particles outside the mass transfer region due to shrinking of vortex lines drawn up over the dome. (iii) generally anticyclonic rotation in the lower layer due to particles tending to maintain their angular momentum while being pushed outwards, but some cyclonic rotation near the centre of mass transfer, due to momentum transfer from the upper layer. Similar effects to these are seen in the Greenland Sea where bottom water formation occurs. Results of the same sort are also found in a laboratory model of the process.     

A theory for the evolution of wind-generated gravity-wave spectra due to dissipation

Abstract

In Naeser (1979), later denoted N, it was shown that a frequency shift of a wave spectrum had to be expected as a result of dissipation of energy and conservation of spin of the waves. While time-dependency was treated in N, mainly space-dependency is treated here. In order to do this, the velocity of the spin of the waves is calculated. It is shown that this can be made equal to the group velocity by a second order coordinate transformation. In the limits of deep and shallow water the transformation becomes the identity, and leaves the Stokes drift at its usual value if the moment point is located at the mean water level.

By supposing that the dissipation is proportional to the molecular dissipation, and that the entire wind-wave interaction takes place at extremely high frequencies and at a constant rate, it is shown that the energy density at the high frequency slope of a fetch-dependent spectrum is inversely proportional to the fifth power of the frequency, while a spectrum which is only a function of the time for which the wind has blown is inversely proportional to the fourth power. The theory is compared with observations which it fits within the accuracy of the method. It is also compared with existing theories and reasons for the discrepancies are pointed out.