海南亚龙湾海滩养护工程前后近岸波流场模拟研究

本文利用西班牙通用海岸工程模拟软件SMC,以海南亚龙湾海域为例,进行了拟建海滩养护工程前后近岸波浪场、波生沿岸流场和近岸输沙场的模拟研究,模拟结果显示海滩养护工程能够起到降低波能,改善近岸流场,减弱沿岸流强度和输沙强度的作用,表明拟建工程方案是合理可行的,能够起到稳定海滩的作用。     

近岸沿岸流及污染物运动的数值模拟

基于双曲型缓坡方程和近岸浅水方程对近岸波浪斜向入射破碎所生成的沿岸流及污染物在沿岸波流作用下的运动进行了数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析。数值模拟结果表明,在相近工况参数下,随着入射波高的增大,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值均明显增大;随着岸坡坡度的增加,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值明显增大;随着入射波浪周期的增大,平均水面升高值明显增大。在沿岸缓坡区域,由斜向入射波浪破碎所产生的沿岸流对污染物的运动起着不可忽略的影响。     

波生沿岸流的数值模拟研究

采用完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的FUNWAVE模型进行波生沿岸流数值模拟研究,通过对不同斜坡地形和波浪入射条件下波生流的物理模型实验结果进行比较,验证了该数值模型能较准确地计算沿岸流;通过改变波浪的不同入射条件,对不同入射条件的沿岸流数值模拟得出:当其他条件不变时,仅入射波高增大时,沿岸流的流幅和幅值增大,幅值位置向深水移动;仅增大入射周期时,沿岸流的流幅显著增加,幅值的增加较小;斜坡地形坡度的改变能显著影响波生沿岸流的流幅和幅值,但对沿岸流幅值位置的水深影响不大。采用窄缝法处理动边界时,选择合适的窄缝起始水深对沿岸流的准确计算是十分必要的。     

青岛麦岛污水处理厂工程海区沿岸近岸流的数值模拟

采用动量方程、波数矢量无族和能量守恒关系对青岛市麦岛污水处理厂工程海区近岸流进行了数值模拟计算，计算结果表明本文提出的近岸流的计算方法是适合工程应用的。采用该模型对沿岸规则波产生的近岸流流场进行数值模拟是简便可行的。     

青岛麦岛污水处理厂工程海沿岸近岸流的数值模拟

采用动量方程、波数矢量无旋和能量守恒关系对青岛市麦岛污水处理厂工程海区近岸流进行了数值模拟计算，计算结果表明本文提出的近岸流的计算方法是适合工程应用的。采用该模型对沿岸规则波产生的近岸流流场进行数值模拟是简便可行的。     

近岸流对波浪传播影响的数值分析

使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。     

东海沿岸海区垂直环流及其温盐结构动力过程研究I．环流的基本特征

利用三维斜压流体动力学模型 ,通过对东海沿岸海区冬、夏季的斜压环流及其温盐结构的数值研究 ,揭示研究海区垂直环流及其温盐结构的动力过程及其成因。垂直环流的模拟结果表明 :冬季 ,沿岸海区的垂直环流以逆时针流动 ,近表层为向岸流 ,沿岸为下降流 ,近表层以下为离岸流 ,其在外海有明显的上升趋势 ,沿岸下降流自表层至底层逐渐由强变弱 ;夏季 ,沿岸海区的垂直环流以顺时针流动 ,近表层以下为向岸流 ,沿岸为上升流 ,近表层为离岸流 ,其在外海有明显的下降趋势 ,沿岸上升流自底层至表层逐渐由弱变强。就整个沿岸海区而论 ,冬季沿岸下降流和夏季沿岸上升流的强度都随着岸界地形坡度、风速及风向与岸线偏角的变化而变化。沿岸下降流形成的主要原因是由于冬季东北风与岸界地形的耦合效应及海区温盐分布不均匀所致 ,而沿岸上升流形成的主要原因则是由于夏季西南风与岸界地形的耦合效应及海区温盐分布不均匀所致。     

东海沿岸海区垂直环流及其温盐结构动力过程研究Ⅰ.环流的基本特征

利用三维斜压流体动力学模型,通过对东海沿岸海区冬、夏季的斜压环流及其温盐结构的数值研究,揭示研究海区垂直环流及其温盐结构的动力过程及其成因。垂直环流的模拟结果表明：冬季,沿岸海区的垂直环流以逆时针流动,近表层为向岸流,沿岸为下降流,近表层以下为离岸流,其在外海有明显的上升趋势,沿岸下降流自表层至底层逐渐由强变弱;夏季,沿岸海区的垂直环流以顺时针流动,近表层以下为向岸流,沿岸为上升流,近表层为离岸流,其在外海有明显的下降趋势,沿岸上升流自底层至表层逐渐由弱变强。就整个沿岸海区而论,冬季沿岸下降流和夏季沿岸上升流的强度都随着岸界地形坡度、风速及风向与岸线偏角的变化而变化。沿岸下降流形成的主要原因是由于冬季东北风与岸界地形的耦合效应及海区温盐分布不均匀所致,而沿岸上升流形成的主要原因则是由于夏季西南风与岸界地形的耦合效应及海区温盐分布不均匀所致。     

沿岸海区冬季垂直环流及其温盐结构的数值研究 Ⅰ.环流的基本特征

为了揭示沿岸海区冬季垂直环流及其温盐结构的分布特征和变化规律，利用三维斜压流体动力学模型，对具有岸界坡度变化、河流入海、海湾、岛屿和海槽的理想海区冬季的垂直环流及其温盐结构进行了数值模拟。其环流的数值结果表明，冬季沿岸海区的垂直环流普遍呈逆时针流动。在近表层为向岸流，沿岸为下降流，近表层以下为离岸流；近表层以下的离岸流在外海有明显的上升趋势；沿岸下降流自表层至底层逐渐由强变弱；就整个海区而言，随着自南往北海区水深的逐渐变浅和岸界地形坡度的由大变小，其沿岸下降流则由强变弱。     

沙坝海岸沿岸流速度剖面特征研究

通过对两个坡度沙坝地形沿岸流实验测量和基于能量方程的沿岸流数值模拟,研究了沙坝海岸平均沿岸流速度剖面的双峰剖面特征,重点分析了第二个峰值的特征和两峰值的比值。综合考虑入射波高、入射波类型和坡度对波生沿岸流垂直岸线速度剖面的影响。结果表明,平均沿岸流速度剖面出现双峰剖面特征:第一峰值发生在沙坝向岸侧面的中部,第二个峰值发生在靠近岸线处;同一坡度情况两个峰值的位置和比值,不受入射波类型、入射波高的影响。数值模型中包括了侧混、底摩擦和水滚等因素,其数值模拟结果和实验值拟合较好,并讨论了有无侧混和水滚对速度剖面的影响。     

中国近岸海区沿岸流和海岸流对沉积物的搬运

中国近岸海区存在两种海流:沿岸流和海岸流。前者是波浪产生的,主要搬运破波带以内的沉积物。后者是中国边缘海环流系统的一部分,位于破波带外,主要搬运粉砂和黏土细粒沉积物。在一些中文文献中两者都称作"沿岸流"。这容易形成概念上的混乱和分析问题上的错误。为了避免混淆,属于边缘海环流系统一部分的"沿岸流"应该称作海岸流,对于具体的"沿岸流"如"渤莱沿岸流"可以直接称呼为渤莱海流。两种海流的方向可以相同、相反或者呈一定角度。山东北部海岸沉积物的空间分布明显地受波浪、近岸环流系统(沿岸流、裂流)及海岸流控制。     

The coastal undercurrent— A role of longshore scales in coastal upwelling dynamics

A simple three-dimensional model of a time-dependent coastal upwelling is discussed for time scales of several days to a week, with the linear, two-layer, flat-bottom and $\text{?-}\text{plane}$ approximation. Emphasis is placed on the effects of longshore scales determined by the longshore variabilities in the wind stress distributions. The responses of the inshore motions are shown to depend critically on the longshore scales. For a certain wide range of the scales, the system reveals dominantly baroclinic responses and a full development of the poleward coastal undercurrent without β effect. Somewhat detailed discussions are given on the coastal upwelling, the coastal jet and the poleward undercurrent, which are interpreted simply as the orbital velocities of the forced Kelvin-type waves.     

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions.     

Dynamics of hypersaline coastal waters in the Great Barrier Reef

The coastal waters of the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) are hypersaline (salinity ∼37) during the dry season as a result of evaporation greatly exceeding rainfall, of shallow waters, and of the presence of numerous bays along the coast preventing rapid flushing. These hypersaline waters are not flushed out by salinity-driven baroclinic currents because these waters are vertically well-mixed. Instead these waters are transported by a longshore residual current and thus form a coastal boundary layer of hypersaline waters. As a result the hypersalinity distribution is 2-D with both cross-shelf and longshore gradients of salinity. The cross-shelf gradients are largely controlled by turbulent diffusion, while the longshore gradients are controlled by the residual currents that transport hypersaline waters longshore south ward in the central and southern regions of the GBR. Because every bay supplies hypersaline waters, the width of the coastal hypersaline layer increases southwards. Steady state is reached in about 100 days, which is the typical duration of the dry season. The dynamics of the GBR hypersaline coastal boundary layer thus differ from the classical inverse hypersaline systems, e.g. in Saloum River Estuary, Laguna San Ignacio, Mission Bay, Tomales Bay, San Diego Bay, Hervey Bay, Shark Bay, Coorong Coast Lagoon, Spencer Gulf, Gulf of California and many others where the salinity gradient is mainly 1-D with a dominant along-channel salinity gradient.     

Wave-adjusted boundary condition for longshore current in finite-volume circulation models

Numerical modeling of coastal circulation encompassing the nearshore requires forcing by tide, surface gravity waves, and possibly other factors. In the nearshore, the wave-induced longshore current and setup are dominant hydrodynamic processes, and lateral boundary conditions representing tide and oceanic forcing typically do not include surface-wave contributions. Without proper boundary conditions, significant gradients in current and water level can occur that contaminate the solution in the internal domain. A standard strategy is to place the boundaries far from the site of interest, but this strategy greatly increases computational demands, and it may not be appropriate for long-term simulations. This paper describes a wave-adjusted boundary condition that accounts for wave-induced water level and current acting in combination with tidal forcing. The wave-adjusted boundary condition is demonstrated for an idealized case of a parallel-contour beach and for an engineering application at Ocean City, MD.     

Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.     

闽粤交界的大埕湾岸滩稳定分析及岸滩防护对策

本文在实地调查的基础上，通过对大埕湾沿岸输沙率变化和岸线形态的分析，综合探讨了该海湾的泥沙来源，沿岸泥沙迁移特征，岸滩冲淤动态以及海岸的演变趋势．结果表明：该湾沿岸带形成了一股朝W向迁移的波生泥沙流，泥沙主要来自诏安湾和宫口湾；该湾海岸除东部沙坝泻湖岸段略有淤伸外，其余岸段均处于侵蚀状态：随着泥沙来源的减少，海岸内凹蚀退是今后岸线调整的自然过程．文中还对大埕湾岸滩的防侵蚀提出了相应的对策建议。     

Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction

Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious.