沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性的小波相干谱分析

沿岸流不稳定运动属于超低频运动,研究它的传播特性,有助于深入理解其对岸滩演变、污染物、鱼卵等输移、迁移的影响。本文基于小波相干谱对所选实验波况进行了研究,分析了规则波、随机波入射情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性,并讨论了入射波高、周期、坡度等对其的影响。结果表明,不规则波更易诱导出沿岸流不稳定运动,且在不规则波情况下,不稳定运动在沿岸方向相距4 m的两个断面上产生的相位差都约为±30°,与波浪入射角相近;随着入射波高的增加,非线性随之增强,更易诱导出不稳定运动,生成的沿岸流不稳定运动周期范围将增大;入射波周期对沿岸流不稳定运动的传播特性影响较小;坡度越陡越易诱导出超低频的不稳定运动。     

近岸沿岸流及污染物运动的数值模拟

基于双曲型缓坡方程和近岸浅水方程对近岸波浪斜向入射破碎所生成的沿岸流及污染物在沿岸波流作用下的运动进行了数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析。数值模拟结果表明,在相近工况参数下,随着入射波高的增大,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值均明显增大;随着岸坡坡度的增加,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值明显增大;随着入射波浪周期的增大,平均水面升高值明显增大。在沿岸缓坡区域,由斜向入射波浪破碎所产生的沿岸流对污染物的运动起着不可忽略的影响。     

波生沿岸流的数值模拟研究

采用完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的FUNWAVE模型进行波生沿岸流数值模拟研究,通过对不同斜坡地形和波浪入射条件下波生流的物理模型实验结果进行比较,验证了该数值模型能较准确地计算沿岸流;通过改变波浪的不同入射条件,对不同入射条件的沿岸流数值模拟得出:当其他条件不变时,仅入射波高增大时,沿岸流的流幅和幅值增大,幅值位置向深水移动;仅增大入射周期时,沿岸流的流幅显著增加,幅值的增加较小;斜坡地形坡度的改变能显著影响波生沿岸流的流幅和幅值,但对沿岸流幅值位置的水深影响不大。采用窄缝法处理动边界时,选择合适的窄缝起始水深对沿岸流的准确计算是十分必要的。     

海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面特征研究

通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。     

波浪作用下近岸区污染物输移扩散的数学模型及其实验验证

在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向.     

风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩稳定机制物理模型试验研究

近年来风暴潮等海洋灾害日趋频发,沙质海岸侵蚀问题也愈发突出,沙滩稳定防护显得日益重要。为研究风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩稳定机制问题,设计了一系列的水槽试验,对风暴浪作用下沙质岸滩的稳定机制和演变过程进行了录像观察和研究分析。试验中采用图像处理技术,根据水和岸滩床面的像素值差异,对岸滩整体剖面进行实时动态提取;对比和分析了不同入射波高、波周期、水深、岸滩初始坡度以及波高连续变化下沙质岸滩演变过程。试验结果表明,岸滩稳定与岸滩初始坡度和沙坝的发育直接相关,而波参数主要影响岸滩扰动幅度和沙坝以及前滩侵蚀边界的位置变化。当入射波高连续变化时,沙坝迅速响应并向离岸迁移。岸滩变化幅值与入射波能流存在明显正相关关系,波能流越大对岸滩稳定性的危害越大。而水位升高会增强前滩向岸侵蚀风险。此外,在本试验尺度下,前滩以侵蚀为主。当岸滩初始坡度小于稳定坡度且波陡较小时,即Dean参数Ω''较小时,岸滩才发生明显的前滩淤积,这对于试验尺度下岸滩恢复工况研究至关重要。具体来说,当岸滩整体坡度为1:10且前滩坡度达到1:5~1:2.5时,岸滩稳定性最好,岸滩形态最接近最终平衡剖面,岸滩趋于稳定的时间最短。     

离岸流灾害水动力学过程的数值模拟研究

离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。     

不规则波情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播方向的研究

本文以沿岸流不稳定运动实验中流速仪采集到的不规则波的流速时间历程为基础,利用相关性分析,得到两个不同位置处对应流速时间历程的最大相关系数和延迟时间,进而分析沿岸流不稳定运动在1∶40和1∶100平直斜坡上的传播方向,并且分析了其随入射波高、周期的变化。结果表明沿岸流不稳定运动在海岸垂向环流系统的作用下,其传播方向会向海方向偏移,与岸线角度大约在0°到45°之间,且在1∶40和1∶100坡情况下,沿岸流不稳定运动的偏移角分别随入射周期和波高的增加而增加,但1∶100坡的增加幅值较小,大约为1∶40坡情况下的1/2。     

大亚湾长周期波在缓变流作用下传播计算模型的研究

以存存缓变背景流的二维缓坡方程为控制方程建立一个计算模型来研究大亚湾长周期波的传播规律.按入射波源形式不同、周期不l司和有无背景潮流设计了几个数学试验,分别通过这儿个试验研究长周期波传播规律.从模拟结果发现,在大哑湾水域,仪在开边界附近不同源形式的入射波对波浪传播的影响有所变化;总的来说,从入射点到湾内波高削弱较快,但是对于不同周期的入射波,模拟所得波高分布变化较大;对于长周期的入射波,背景流也对波浪传播有一定影响.     

波浪在三维圆形岛地形上的绕射研究

波浪在传播过程中遇到岛屿就会发生绕射。本文使用混合元方法对修正型缓坡方程进行了数值求解,并与KUO et al的解析解进行了比较验证。在此基础上研究了工程尺度背景下,波浪在三维圆形岛地形上的绕射,计算了不同入射波浪周期、浅滩形状参数和岛屿尺寸情况下,沿波浪传播方向断面上和岛屿岸线上的相对波高大小。计算结果表明：随着入射波周期的减小、浅滩形状参数的增大和岛屿尺寸的减小,圆形岛迎浪侧的相对波高振荡幅度、圆形岛背浪侧的相对波高大小以及岛屿岸线上的相对波高振幅和大小均随之增大。不同情况下,岛屿岸线上的相对波高最大值大多数发生在迎浪点,个别发生在迎浪点两侧20°~25°处;最小值发生在背浪点两侧30°附近。     

Longshore Currents over Barred Beach with Mild Slope

The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longshore currents, with emphasis on the location and ratio of two peaks of longshore currents. The location and ratio of two peaks are controlled by the sand bar. The influences of wave heights and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. Numerical simulations were also performed to compute the measured velocity profile, with the emphasis on the effect of lateral mixing, bottom friction and surface rollers on numerical results.     

Longshore currents of regular waves on different beaches

The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.     

Longshore Currents of Random Waves on Different Plane Beaches

1 .IntroductionWhenwavespropagateobliquelytotheshorelineandbreak ,ameancurrentisgeneratedflowingparalleltothecoast.Thegenerationoflongshorecurrentscanbeexplainedasfollows .Withbreakingwaveheightdecreasing ,themomentumofwavemotionwillchangecorrespondingly .Accordingtothemomentumconservationtheory ,thechangesofthemomentumwillbeaccompaniedwithadditionalforcesactingonfluid .Longuet Higgins ( 1 970 )usedtheconceptofradiationstresstodescribetheaboveadditionalforceactingonfluidduetothechangeofwavemo…     

One-dimensional modelling of individual waves and wave-induced longshore currents in the surf zone

A probabilistic model ( -model) was developed to describe the propagation and transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Laboratory and field data were used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient (as a function of local wave steepness and bottom slope) to obtain optimum agreement between measured and computed wave height. Four tests carried out in the large Delta flume of Delft Hydraulics were considered. Generally, the measured H_1/3-wave heights are reasonably well represented by the model in all zones from deep water to the shallow surf zone. The fraction of breaking waves was reasonably well represented by the model in the upsloping zones of the bottom profile. Verification of the model results with respect to wave-induced longshore current velocities was not extensive, because of a lack of data. In case of a barred profile the measured longshore velocities showed a relatively uniform distribution in the (trough) zone between the bar crest and the shoreline, which could to some extent be modelled by including space-averaging of the radiation force gradient, horizontal mixing and longshore water surface gradients related to variations in set-up. In case of a monotonically upsloping profile the cross-shore distribution of the longshore current velocities is reasonably well represented.     

Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches

Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the still-water-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the $\text{2}\text{3}$ power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this $\text{2}\text{3}$ power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker line in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the $\text{1}\text{2}$ power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases. For a given concave-up beach profile, the influence of the lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases.     

Rip currents under obliquely incident wind waves and tidal longshore currents

A field experiment on the nature of rip currents was conducted on the Dutch coast, which differs from previous rip current study sites because it is a wind-sea dominated environment with mostly obliquely incident waves and tidally-driven longshore currents. During the experiment three distinct flow patterns, obtained with GPS tracked drifter instruments, were observed: (1) a locally governed circulation cell, (2) an offshore current that is deflected shore parallel outside the surf zone and (3) a meandering longshore current. The transition from rip currents (flow patterns 1 and 2) to meandering longshore currents (flow pattern 3) occurred gradually within the tidal cycle with longshore currents prevalent at mid to high tide. Rip currents at this site appeared at depressions in the surf zone bar and typically occurred when the water level fell below NAP (equivalent to MSL), even in the presence of obliquely incident waves and tidally driven longshore currents. Hindcast simulations of the drifter experiments were performed with the numerical model XBeach and showed good agreement with field observations. The model was subsequently used to investigate the influence of tidal water level fluctuations, longshore currents and obliquely incident waves on rip currents.Rip currents were initiated when the water level dropped below a specific threshold with the magnitude of the rip current associated with the water level. The strength of the tidal current and its orientation with respect to the incident waves governed the offshore extent and orientation of the rip current. In contrast to other studies that suggest that rip currents solely occur under shore normal (or slightly oblique waves), in this study both observations and numerical model simulations indicate that rip currents can exist under large angles of wave incidence, when the rip channel is sufficiently wide and the wave height is small.     

Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility

A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current. Pumping rates are adjusted in an iterative manner to converge toward the proper settings, based on measurements along the beach. Two recirculation criteria proposed by Visser [Coastal Eng. 15 (1991) 563] were also used, and they provided additional evidence that the proper total longshore flow rate in the surf zone was obtained. The success of the external recirculation system and its operational procedure, and the degree of longshore uniformity achieved along the beach, are the subjects of this paper. To evaluate the performance of the recirculation system, and as a precursor to sediment transport experiments, two comprehensive test series were conducted on a concrete beach with straight and parallel contours (1:30 slope), one using regular waves and the other using irregular waves. In the regular wave case, the wave period was 2.5 s and the average wave height at breaking was approximately 0.25 m. In the irregular wave case, the peak wave period was 2.5 s and the significant breaking wave height was approximately 0.21 m. The longshore current recirculation system proved to be very effective in establishing uniform mean longshore currents along the beach in both cases. This facility and the data presented here are unique for the following reasons: (1) the high cross-shore resolution of the recirculation system and the ease with which changes can be made to the longshore current distribution, (2) the degree of longshore uniformity achieved as a percentage of the length of the basin (even near the downdrift boundary), (3) the scale of the wave conditions generated, and (4) the relatively gentle beach slope used in the experiments (compared to previous laboratory studies of the longshore current). Measured data are provided in an appendix for use in theoretical studies and numerical model development and validation.     

Influence of lateral mixing on longshore currents

A variety of different lateral mixing models have been employed in the equation of motion for determining wave-induced longshore currents. The equation of motion is cast into a general form which enables a comparison of the various models. Analytic solutions for longshore currents are developed for seven different mixing models. A nonplanar beach profile is employed because it has been found to be representative of many beaches and it allows for a distinction between offshore and depth scaling of eddies. The seven different mixing models include models which vary monotonically with horizontal distance offshore and models which change form at the breaker line. Numerical results indicate that the longshore current profile is rather insensitive to the form of the mixing model for nonplanar beach profiles.     

A Numerical Model for Edge Waves on A Compound Slope

An edge wave is a kind of surface gravity wave basically travelling along a shoaling beach. Based on the periodic assumption in the longshore direction, a second order ordinary differential equation is obtained for numerical simulation of the cross-shore surface elevation. Given parameters at the shoreline, a cross-shore elevation profile is obtained through integration with fourth-order Runge-Kutta technique. For a compound slope, a longshore wavenumber is obtained by following a geometrical approach and solving a transcendental equation with an asymptotic method. Numerical results on uniform and compound sloping beaches with different wave periods, slope angles, modes and turning point positions are presented. Some special scenarios, which cannot be predicted by analytical models are also discussed.