应用Boussinesq方程对由航道开挖所造成水深变化对波浪传播所产生的异常波况的数值研究

应用Boussinesq方程采用有限差分法建立了非线性数值波浪模式，并应用该模式对由航道开挖所造成水深变化对波浪传播产生的异常现象进行了数值模拟研究。从结果来看这种异常波浪局部增大现象是由于入射波与航道夹角过小，使波浪无法折射入航道，而在航道两侧反射叠加的结果。因此说水深的变化对波浪产生的反射现象也是不可忽视的。     

The force of oblique incident wave on the breakwater with a partially perforated wall

1 IntroductionRecently breakwaters with perforated front wallshave been widely used. The use of perforated break-waters mainly has two advantages. Firstly, wave forcesacting on the whole structure can be divided into twoparts on two different walls with a phase difference.To select the distance between the two plates suitably,the total wave force on the whole structure can bemaintained at a low level. Secondly, waves will dissi-pate when they transmit over a porous medium. Thus,the reflection…     

涌浪作用下港内波况试验研究

基于秘鲁钱凯港的防波堤三维整体模型试验结果,研究了涌浪绕射、透射联合作用对港内波况的影响。分析了不同波向、不同谱峰周期的入射波条件下港内不同功能区的波况分布规律,并对比分析了具有不同周期的入射波对港内不同区域波高的影响,兼顾分析了波向的影响。结果表明,在涌浪作用下,受透射、绕射影响,不同入射波条件下港内比波高分布规律相关性较好,距离口门越近、入射波波长越长,港内比波高越大;入射波周期对港内波况影响的差异和对波向的敏感性因港内不同区域而不同;防波堤阻挡效果好的波向,其入射波对港内的影响较小;对于受防波堤掩护性较好的内侧泊位,应重点关注泊位处的低频波浪对系泊的影响。     

直立式防波堤口门区海啸局部冲刷规律实验研究

海啸作为世界上最严重的自然灾害之一,其巨大的破坏力使得近海建筑物遭受了严重的损害。基于波浪水槽实验,开展海啸波作用下不同口门距离的防波堤局部冲刷机理实验研究。实验结果表明,在海啸波越顶水流产生的水跌以及海啸波通过防波堤口门时产生的扰流共同作用下,口门中心线处产生明显的局部冲刷坑,随着口门距离的增加,防波堤局部冲刷先加剧后减弱。建立防波堤局部最大冲刷深度与海啸波波高、防波堤宽度及出水高度、口门间距的关系式,揭示了最大局部冲刷深度与海啸波波高、防波堤尺寸、口门距离的内在关系。     

双层直立圆弧型防波堤上绕射波浪力的解析计算

基于微幅波绕射理论,应用特征函数展开法,推导了双层直立圆弧型透空防波堤的波浪绕射解析解,从而将已有的比例边界有限元法拓展为解析算法,并据此对外层与内层防波堤所受波浪载荷进行了解析计算。计算结果表明:应用本文方法对直立透空圆环柱的绕射波浪载荷进行验证计算,所得结果与现有的解析解完全吻合,说明方法可靠。双层堤较单层堤能更有效地减弱波浪作用。波浪的入射角度和特征参数、防波堤张角与半径、防波堤透空系数以及水深等因素的相对变化对双层堤的波浪作用均存在一定影响。     

斜向波对直立式防波堤堤头作用的试验研究

直立式防波堤堤头在斜向波浪作用下波浪力的计算在现行的技术规范中尚属空白。通过物理模型试验给出了堤头结构设计所需的波压分布图，指出了波浪入射方向和地形对堤头所受波浪力的贡献有时可以超过波高和波周期，根据现行规范按波浪正向入射计算堤头所受的波浪力偏于安全。     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

植物对孤立波作用下直立堤局部冲刷影响实验研究

基于水槽实验,研究植物对孤立波作用下直立堤局部冲刷的影响。通过改变实验入射波高、植物带的宽度和密度,分析各要素对直立堤局部冲刷的影响。实验对波高沿程变化、孤立波越堤、回落过程以及地形演变进行全程的测量和记录,并进行有无植物带保护的直立堤局部冲刷对比分析。结果表明,植物带的存在,使得堤后相对最大冲刷深度显著减小,堤前冲刷形态由单峰式"L"型变为双峰式淤积沙坝形态,且冲刷位置由原堤脚前移至植物带所在位置,冲刷范围大幅增加。减小植物带密度或者植物带宽度会使近岸侧或是离岸侧的相对最大冲刷深度和相对最大淤积高度有增大的趋势,但是当入射波高增大时,二者的影响不显著。该研究对实际工程中植物带的合理布置提出了具有参考性的建议,对减少堤防工程的冲刷和损失有一定现实意义。     

A model for obliquely incident wave interacting with a multi-layered object

This paper presents an analytical solution for scattering of oblique incident, small amplitude, monochromatic wave trains by a stationary rigid multi-layered objects with rectangular cross-section. The object is infinite long and consists of multilayers, which can be either solid or permeable. This paper extends the previous work by Hu and Liu [1] from normal incident wave condition with a special object configuration to oblique incident waves with multi-layered object. The present model is validated with several existing solutions for normal/oblique waves interacting with a single object; excellent agreement is observed. New numerical results are presented to investigate the effects of incidence angle on reflection, transmission and energy loss coefficients for a combined floating and bottom-mounted permeable breakwater. A new floating board-cage breakwater is developed from the present model and its solutions are discussed in detail. A computer program, AWAS-P, has been updated so that it is applicable for both oblique and normal incident waves, while the object is multi-layered.     

Interaction Between Waves and A Comb-Type Breakwater

The characteristics of wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation of comb-type caisson breakwaters are studied through laboratory physical model tests. Regular and irregular waves, with a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth, are considered. Different dimensions of each portion of the comb-type caisson breakwater are tested. Empirical formulae for calculating the reduction coefficient k, which is the ratio of horizontal wave force on unit length of the comb-type breakwater to that on unit length of the vertical wall breakwater, and for calculating the reflection coefficient of waves k, are obtained from the measurements. The comb-type caisson breakwater has been found to be very efficient in dissipating incident wave energy and in reducing wave reflection, and has already been used for the construction of an island breakwater in the Dayao Bay of Dalian Port, Liaoning Province, China. Compared with the cost of a common caisson breakwater, about 24. 5% of the investm     

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。     

Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall

In this study,we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall.Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations,which involve parameters of the porous medium,were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater.The numerical solution is verified with experimental data.The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.In contrast to cases without a seawall,the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater.We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

防浪建筑物影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律，并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中，短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减，低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大，波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变；海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小，低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大，防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的；当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时，低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。     

The theoretical study on diagonal wave interaction with perforated-wall breakwater with rock fill

The interaction of diagonal waves with perforated-wall breakwater partially filled with rock fill is studied using the linear potential theory. By means of the matched eigenfunction expansion method, an analytical method is presented to calculate the reflection coefficient and the wave force coefficient of the breakwater. The calculated results of the reflection coefficient for limiting cases are the same to the existing results. The main effect factors of the reflection coefficient and the wave force coefficient are analyzed by numerical examples. With the increasing of thickness of rock fill, the wave force coefficient on the perforated wall generally decreases, while the reflection coefficient increases. With the increasing of the incident angle of the wave, the reflection coefficient of the breakwater first decreases, reaches its minimum, and then increases monotonously.     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

斜向波与带填料开孔板式防波堤相互作用的研究

基于线性势流理论,对斜向波与消浪室内带部分填料的开孔板式防波堤结构的相互作用进行了理论研究.利用匹配特征函数展开法给出了开孔防波堤结构反射系数和波浪力系数的理论计算方法,在极限情况下的计算结果与已有结果一致.利用数值算例分析了开孔结构反射系数和波浪力系数的主要影响因素.增加消浪室内填料厚度通常可以降低开孔墙结构的波浪力系数,加大结构的反射系数.随着波浪入射角度的增加,带填料防波堤结构的反射系数值先减小,达到最小值后又单调增加.     

斜向波浪作用下双层水平板式防波堤波浪荷载试验研究

In this study, systematic physical model tests were performed to investigate the wave forces on the twin-plate breakwater under irregular waves. Based on the experimental results, the effects of the relative plate width B/L,wave height Hs/D and incident angle θ0 on the wave forces were analyzed and discussed. The results showed that:(1) The envelopes of the total wave pressure were generally symmetrical along the direction of plate width under the incident angles(θ0) being 0°, 15°, 30°, 45° and 60°. In particular, the envelopes of wave pressure atθ0=30° were larger than all other cases.(2) The synchronous pressure distribution of the breakwater under oblique wave action was more complicated comparing to the normal incident waves.(3) Based on data analysis, an empirical formula was obtained to estimate the total vertical force of the twin-plate breakwater.This empirical formula can be a good reference for the design basis of engineering applications under specified wave conditions.     

Risk Analysis of Breakwater Caisson Under Wave Attack Using Load Surface Approximation

A new load surface based approach to the reliability analysis of caisson-type breakwater is proposed. Uncertainties of the horizontal and vertical wave loads acting on breakwater are considered by using the so-called load surfaces, which can be estimated as functions of wave height, water level, and so on. Then, the first-order reliability method（FORM） can be applied to determine the probability of failure under the wave action. In this way, the reliability analysis of breakwaters with uncertainties both in wave height and in water level is possible. Moreover, the uncertainty in wave breaking can be taken into account by considering a random variable for wave height ratio which relates the significant wave height to the maximum wave height. The proposed approach is applied numerically to the reliability analysis of caisson breakwater under wave attack that may undergo partial or full wave breaking.     

A wave-flume study of scour at a pile breakwater: Solitary waves

Understanding the sediment transport and the resulting scour around coastal structures such as pile breakwaters under local extreme wave conditions is important for the foundation safety of various coastal structures. This study reports a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles. A wave blacking gate with a simple operation procedure in the experiment was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume. An underwater laser scanner and a point probe were used in combination to provide high-resolution data of the bed profile around the pile breakwater. Effects of incident wave height and local water depth on the maximum scour depth, the maximum deposition height and the total scour and deposition volumes were examined. An existing empirical formula describing the evolution of the scour at a single pile in current or waves was extended to describe the scour at the pile breakwater under the action of multiple solitary waves, and new empirical coefficients were obtained by fitting the formula to the new experimental data to estimate the equilibrium scour depth. It appears that the maximum scour depth and the total scour volume are two reliable quantities for validation of numerical models developed for the scour around pile breakwaters under highly nonlinear wave conditions.