Calibration and verification of a spectral wind–wave model for Lake Okeechobee

A spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) that represents the generation, propagation and dissipation of waves was applied to Lake Okeechobee. This model includes the effects of refraction, shoaling, and blocking in wave propagation. It accounts for wave dissipation by whitecapping, bottom friction, and depth-induced wave breaking. The wave–wave interaction effect also is included in this model. Measurements of wind and wave heights were made at different stations and different time periods in Lake Okeechobee. Significant wave height values were computed from the recorded data. The correlation between wind stress and significant wave height also was analyzed. A 6-day simulation using 1989 data was conducted for model calibration. Another 6-day simulation using 1996 data was conducted for model verification. The simulated significant wave heights were found to agree reasonably well with measured significant wave heights for calibration and verification periods. Agreement between observed and simulated values was based on graphical comparisons, mean, absolute and root mean square errors, and correlation coefficient. Comparisons showed that the model reproduced both general observed trends and short term fluctuations.     

基于非对称Archimedean Copula的三变量风浪重现水平分析

采用非对称Archimedean Copula函数与Kendall分布函数分析极端波况下的波高、周期和风速三变量联合概率分布与风险率及其设计分位数,为海岸海洋工程设计和风险评估提供参考依据。以粤东汕尾海域的实测风浪数据为例,使用非对称Gumbel-Hougaard Copula函数计算三变量风浪联合分布的"或"重现期、"且"重现期和二次重现期及其最可能的风浪设计值。主要结论如下:对比不同设计风浪重现期显示,"或"重现期的风险率偏高,"且"重现期的风险率偏低,二次重现期更准确地反映了特定设计频率情况下三变量风浪的风险率;按目前有关规范设计要求的单变量风浪要素设计值已经达到安全标准,按三变量"或"重现期和三变量同频率设计值推算的风浪设计值偏高,以最大可能概率推算的三变量风浪要素的二次重现期设计值可为相关工程安全与风险管理提供新的选择。     

Vertical structure variability in a seasonal simulation of a medium-resolution regional model of the Eastern South Pacific

A seasonal simulation from a medium-resolution ocean general circulation mode (OGCM) is used to investigate the vertical structure variability of the Southeast Pacific (SEP). The focus is on the extra-tropical Rossby wave (ETRW) variability and associated forcing mechanism. Some aspects of the model mean state are validated from available observations, which justifies a vertical mode decomposition of the model variability. The analysis of the baroclinic mode contributions to sea level indicates that the gravest mode is dominant over most of the domain at all frequencies. Annual variability is on average twice as large as the semi-annual variability which is confined near the coast for all the modes. The first baroclinic mode contribution to the annual cycle exhibits a clear westward propagation north of the critical latitude. The higher-order modes only contribute near the coast where they are associated with vertically propagating energy. The residual variability, which is the energy at all timescales other than annual and semi-annual periods peaks offshore between 20°S and 30°S for all baroclinic modes. The third baroclinic mode also exhibits a relative maximum variability off the coast of Peru south of the critical latitude of the annual cycle (13°S), where the Peru–Chile Undercurrent is the most intense. Sensitivity experiments to the atmospheric and boundary forcing suggest that the residual variability results from the non-linear interaction between annual Rossby waves and the mean flow, while the annual ETRWs in the model result from the summed-contribution from both the local wind stress and remote equatorial forcing. Overall the study extends the classical analysis of sea level variability in the SEP based on linear theory, and suggests that the peculiarities of the baroclinic modes need to be taken into account for interpreting the sea level variability and understanding its connection with the equatorial variability.     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。     

Barotropic Response of the Sea of Okhotsk to Wind Forcing

We have examined wind-induced circulation in the Sea of Okhotsk using a barotropic model that contains realistic topography with a resolution of 9.25 km. The monthly wind stress field calculated from daily European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting (ECMWF) Re-Analysis data is used as the forcing, and the integration is carried out for 20 days until the circulation attains an almost steady state. In the case of November (a representative for the winter season from October to March), southward currents of velocity 0.1–0.3 m s⁻¹ occur along the bottom contours off the east of Sakhalin Island. The currents are mostly confined to the shelf (shallower than 200 m) and extend as far south as the Hokkaido coast. In the July case (a representative for the summer season from April to September), significant currents do not occur, even in the shallow shelves. The simulated southward current over the east Sakhalin shelf appears to correspond to the near-shore branch of the East Sakhalin Current (ESC), which was observed with the surface drifters. These seasonal variations simulated in our experiments are consistent with the observations of the ESC. Dynamically, the simulated ESC is interpreted as the arrested topographic wave (ATW), which is the coastally trapped flow driven by steady alongshore wind stress. The volume transport of the simulated ESC over the shelf reaches about 1.0 Sv (1 Sv = 10⁶ m³s⁻¹) in the winter season, which is determined by the integrated onshore Ekman transport in the direction from which shelf waves propagate. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Annual and Seasonal Variations of the Sea Surface Heat Fluxes in the East Asian Marginal Seas

Based on the twice-daily marine atmospheric variables which were derived mostly from the weather maps for 18 years period from 1978 to 1995, the surface heat flux over the East Asian marginal seas was calculated at 0.5°×0.5° grid points twice a day. The annual mean distribution of the net heat flux shows that the maximum heat loss occurs in the central part of the Yellow Sea, along the Kuroshio axis and along the west coast of the northern Japanese islands. The area off Vladivostok turned out to be a heat-losing region, however, on the average, the amount of heat loss is minimum over the study area and the estuary of the Yangtze River also appears as a region of the minimum heat loss. The seasonal variations of heat flux show that the period of heat gain is longest in the Yellow Sea, and the maximum heat gain occurs in June. The maximum heat loss occurs in January over the study area, except the Yellow Sea where the heat loss is maximum in December. The annual mean value of the net heat flux in the East/Japan Sea is −108 W/m² which is about twice the value of Hirose et al. (1996) or about 30% higher than Kato and Asai (1983). For the Yellow Sea, it is about −89 W/m² and it becomes −75 W/m² in the East China Sea. This increase in values of the net heat flux comes mostly from the turbulent fluxes which are strongly dependent on the wind speed, which fluctuates largely during the winter season. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Probability distributions of wave heights in bimodal seas in an offshore basin

This study aims at assessing the adequacy for describing bimodal sea states of different non-linear probability distributions that have been developed for single sea states. It is based on data collected at an offshore test basin. The measurements represent three bimodal sea states with individual unidirectional wave systems propagating at 60, 90 and 120 from each other. The wave spectra are separated into swell and wind sea components and the relative energy ratio between the areas under the associated spectral curves is estimated and is related with the statistics of the time series considered. Dependence is found between the normalized high order cumulants, which describe the non-Gaussian surface, and the predominant contribution of the wind sea energy. Furthermore, the probabilities of exceedance of the individual wave heights are estimated and compared with the Rayleigh model and with other models that take into account either the effect of spectral bandwidth or the effect of wave nonlinearities. The results are discussed with respect to three classes of sea states that reflect the relative contribution of swell and wind sea energy.     

Case study of wind jet transition and localized responses of wind wave along the pacific coast of Northern Japan by synergetic use of satellite and in situ observations

We present a case study of low-level wind jets induced in sequence by orographic effects off the Pacific coast of northern Japan during 7–11 June 2003, and demonstrate that the transition of the wind jets causes areal differences of wave height variations along the coast. First, we describe evolution and structure of the wind jet by analyzing SeaWinds scatterometer wind measurements. Under the easterly wind, a strong wind jet formed after passing by Cape Erimo. As the wind shifted to the southeast, the wind jet started to decay. In turn, the southerly wind along the coast led to another wind jet in the lee of the easternmost tip of the Sanriku coast. We then identify onsets and decays of the wind jets from time series of wind speed at meteorological stations. Finally, we demonstrate that the transition of the wind jets has local impacts on wave height variations. Significant wave heights measured by altimeters were correlated positively with local wind energy, i.e., squares of wind speeds. Accompanying the wind jet formation/decline, significant differences of wave height variations became marked among wave observation stations located along the coast at intervals of up to 50 km.     

Primary productivity and solar radiation off Sanriku in May 1997

We measured the in situ primary production at four stations from the surface to 80 m off Sanriku in late May 1997. The depth-integrated daily primary production in the upper 80 m was estimated to be 391, 468, and 855 mgC m⁻²d⁻¹ in water from the Oyashio, and 336 mgC m⁻²d⁻¹ in the warm-core ring. The variation in the primary production was primarily due to the variation in phytoplankton activity (chlorophyll α-specific primary production). A combination of previous and present studies in water from the Oyashio and the warm-core ring suggested that phytoplankton activity is proportional to light intensity between 12 and 50 Ein m⁻²d⁻¹ which is close to the usual light condition (61–75 Ein m⁻²d⁻¹) off Sanriku in May and June. Light may be a limiting factor for phytoplankton off Sanriku in late spring and early summer.     

宁波北仑海域风浪统计性质研究

根据宁波北仑海域的连续3a的实测风浪资料,讨论了在不同风速条件下波高分布和周期分布,以及两者的联合分布;通过与理论结果的比较,得出波高分布与Rayleigh分布基本符合,但有一些差异,周期分布与孙孚的理论周期分布较符合,而波高与周期的联合分布除了图形的形状以及大波对应的无因次周期的值与孙孚的理论值有差异外,两者吻合较好。     

Turbidity and sediment transport in a muddy sub-estuary

Sub-estuaries, i.e. tidal creeks and also larger estuaries that branch off the stem of their main estuary, are commonplace in many estuarine systems. Their physical behaviour is affected not only by tributary inflows, winds and tides, but also by the properties and behaviour of their main estuary. Measurements extending over more than an annual cycle are presented for the Tavy Estuary, a sub-estuary of the Tamar Estuary, UK. Generally, waves are small in the Tavy because of the short wind fetch. A several-hour period of up-estuary winds, blowing at speeds of between 7 and 10 m s⁻¹, generates waves with significant wave heights of 0.25 m and a wave periodicity of 1.7 s that are capable of eroding the bed over the shallow, ca. 1.5 m-deep mudflats. Waves also influence sedimentation within and near salt marsh areas. An estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) occurs in the Tavy's main channel, close to the limit of salt intrusion at HW. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations typically are less than 40 mg l⁻¹ at HW, although concentrations can exceed 80 mg l⁻¹ when tides and winds are strong. Flood-tide SPM inputs to the Tavy from the Tamar are greater during high runoff events in the River Tamar and also at spring tides, when the Tamar has a high-concentration ETM. Higher SPM concentrations are experienced on the mudflats following initial inundation. Without wave resuspension, this is followed by a rapid decrease in SPM for most of the tide, indicating that the mudflats are depositional at those times. SPM concentrations on the mudflats again increase sharply prior to uncovering. Peak ebb tidal speeds at 0.15 m above the mudflat bed can exceed 0.26 m s⁻¹ at spring tides and 0.4 m s⁻¹ following high runoff events, which are sufficient to cause resuspension. Time-series measurements of sediment bed levels show strong seasonal variability. Higher and lower freshwater flows are associated with estimated, monthly-mean sediment transport that is directed out of, or into, the upper sub-estuary, respectively. Seasonal sediment transfers between the estuary and its sub-estuary are discussed.     

Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: A note

This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms.     

Nutrient variability in the mixed layer of the subarctic Pacific Ocean, 1987–2010

Data collected primarily from commercial ships between 1987 and 2010 are used to provide details of seasonal, interannual and bidecadal variability in nutrient supply and removal in the surface ocean mixed layer across the subarctic Pacific. Linear trend analyses are used to look for impacts of climate change in oceanic domains (geographic regions) representing the entire subarctic ocean. Trends are mixed and weak (generally not significant) in both winter and summer despite evidence that the upper ocean is becoming more stratified. Overall, these data suggest little change in the winter resupply of the mixed layer with nutrients over the past 23 years. The few significant trends indicate a winter increase in nitrate (~0.16 μM year⁻¹) in the Bering Sea and in waters off the British Columbia coast, and a decline in summer phosphate (0.018 μM year⁻¹) in the Bering. An oscillation in Bering winter nutrient maxima matches the lunar nodal cycle (18.6 years) suggesting variability in tidal mixing intensity in the Aleutian Islands affects nutrient transport. Nitrate removal from the seasonal mixed layer varies between 6 μM along the subarctic–subtropical boundary and 18 μM off the north coast of Japan, with April to September new production rates in the subarctic Pacific being estimated at 2 and 6 moles C m⁻². Changes in nutrient removal in the Bering and western subarctic Pacific (WSP) suggest either the summer mixed layer is thinning with little change in new production or new production is increasing which would require an increase in iron transport to these high-nutrient low-chlorophyll (HNLC) waters. Si/N and N/P removal ratios of 2.1 and 19.7 are sufficient to push waters into Si then N limitation with sufficient iron supply. Because ~3 μM winter nitrate is transferred to reduced N pools in summer, new production calculated from seasonal nutrient drawdown should not be directly equated to export production.     

Temporal variations of surface oceanic and atmospheric CO2 fugacity and total dissolved inorganic carbon in the northwestern North Pacific

In order to examine temporal variations of the surface oceanic and atmospheric fCO₂ and the DIC concentration, we analyzed air and seawater samples collected during the period May 1992–June 1996 in the northwestern North Pacific, about 30 km off the coast of the main island of Japan. The atmospheric CO₂ concentration has increased secularly at a rate of 1.9 ppmv yr⁻¹, and it showed a clear seasonal cycle with a maximum in spring and a minimum late in summer, produced mainly by seasonally-dependent terrestrial biospheric activities. DIC also showed a prominent seasonal cycle in the surface ocean; the minimum and maximum values of the cycle appeared in early fall and in early spring, respectively, due primarily to the seasonally-dependent activities of marine biota and partly to the vertical mixing of seawater and the coastal upwelling. The oceanic fCO₂ values were almost always lower than those of the atmospheric fCO₂, suggesting that this area of the ocean acts as a sink for atmospheric CO₂. Values varied seasonally, mainly reflecting seasonal changes of SST and DIC, with a secular increase at a rate of 3.7 μatm yr⁻¹. The average values of the annual net CO₂ flux between the ocean and the atmosphere calculated by using the different bulk equations ranged between −0.8 and −1.7 mol m⁻²yr⁻¹, and its magnitude was enhanced and reduced late in spring and mid-summer, respectively, due mainly to the seasonally varying oceanic fCO₂.     

Estimation of wind speed and wave height during cyclones

Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.     

响水近岸海域波浪特性研究

基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。     

Estimating of gas transfer velocity using triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen

The atmosphere-ocean exchange of climatically important gases is determined by the transfer velocity (k) and concentration gradient across the interface. Based on observations in the northwestern subarctic Pacific and Sagami Bay, we report here the results of the first ever application of the natural abundance of triple isotopes of dissolved oxygen (¹⁶O, ¹⁷O and ¹⁸O) for direct estimation of k and propose a new relationship with wind speed. The k values estimated from nighttime variations in oxygen isotopes are found to be higher than the direct estimations at low wind speed (<5 m s⁻¹) and lower at high wind speeds (>13 m s⁻¹) and showed significant spatial variability. The method presented here can be used to derive seasonal and spatial variations in k and the influence of surface conditions on the value, leading to improved estimates of biogenic/anthropogenic gas exchange at the air-sea interface.     

Air-Sea Interaction, Coastal Circulation and Primary Production in the Eastern Arabian Sea: A Review

Air-sea interaction, coastal circulation and primary production exhibit an annual cycle in the eastern Arabian Sea (AS). During June to September, strong southwesterly winds (4∼9 m s⁻¹) promote sea surface cooling through surface heat loss and vertical mixing in the central AS and force the West India Coastal Current equatorward. Positive wind stress curl induced by the Findlater jet facilitates Ekman pumping in the northern AS, and equatorward-directed alongshore wind stress induces upwelling which lowers sea surface temperature by about 2.5°C (compared to the offshore value) along the southwestern shelf of India and enhances phytoplankton concentration by more than 70% as compared to that in the central AS. During winter monsoon, from November to March, dry and weak northeasterly winds (2–6 m s⁻¹) from the Indo-China continent enhance convective cooling of the upper ocean and deepen the mixed layer by more than 80 m, thereby increasing the vertical flux of nutrients in the photic layer which promotes wintertime phytoplankton blooms in the northern AS. The primary production rate integrated for photic layer and surface chlorophyll-a estimated from the Coastal Zone Color Scanner, both averaged for the entire western India shelf, increases from winter to summer monsoon from 24 to 70 g C m⁻²month and from 9 to 24 mg m⁻², respectively. Remotely-forced coastal Kelvin waves from the Bay of Bengal propagate into the coastal AS, which modulate circulation pattern along the western India shelf; these Kelvin waves in turn radiate Rossby waves which reverse the circulation in the Lakshadweep Sea semiannually. This review leads us to the conclusion that seasonal monsoon forcing and remotely forced waves modulate the circulation and primary production in the eastern AS. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Extreme waves for Kuwaiti territorial waters

The extreme significant wave heights and the corresponding wave periods were predicted for return periods of 12, 25, 50, 100 and 200 yr for 19 different locations in Kuwaiti territorial waters. Though the total coast length of Kuwait is only about 500 km including all islands and the total area of the Kuwaiti territorial water is about 7611 km², the extreme significant wave height vary from 1.86 to 4.02 m for 100 yr return period, among these 19 locations. In general Weibull distribution is found to fit the data well compared to the Gumbel distribution. The input wave data for the present work is obtained by hind casting waves using a WAM model. Wave data is hindcasted for a total period of 12 yr, starting from 1 January 1993 to 31 December 2004. From the joint probability of wave height and wave period, a simple polynomial relationship is obtained between the significant wave height and mean period for all the 19 locations. It is found that the wave period for wave heights of 100 yr return period cannot exceed 6.5 s. A large number of coastal projects are in progress and many new projects are planned for the near future in the Kuwaiti territorial waters. The results of the present study will be highly useful for optimal design of these projects.     

Climatic structure of the wind fields in the Black-Sea region

For the Black-Sea region, we perform the dynamic reanalysis of the data on atmospheric circulation for the period 1958–2001 by using the HadRM3P model with a space resolution of 25 km. We estimate the mean climatic atmospheric fields of vorticity and divergence of the wind velocity and study their space structure and seasonal variability. The climatic estimates of the annual course of vorticity of the wind velocity over the sea are presented. The obtained large annual average values of vorticity of the velocity reveal the predominant role played by the wind action in the generation not only of the seasonal variability but also of the mean cyclonic circulation of waters in the Black Sea.