Trends in the spatial and temporal distribution of metals (Cd,Cu, Zn and Pb) and organic compounds (PCBs and PAHs) in Dutch coastal zone sediments from 1981 to 1996: a model case study for Cd and PCBs

The spatial and temporal distribution of trace metals (Cd, Pb, Zn and Cu), polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) was studied to assess trends in the sediment of the Dutch coastal zone (<63-μm fraction) from 1981 to 1996. In general, the distributions showed a distinct zonation, with highest concentrations close to the coast near freshwater outlets and where dredged material had been dumped. Over time, the zone with high concentrations narrowed and moved towards the coast. The median of the percentage of the <63-μm fraction in the surface sediments did not change significantly in the Dutch coastal zone between 1981 and 1996. In that period, the median concentrations of Cd, Cu, Zn and Pb fell by 71, 38, 49 and 53%, respectively, in the area close to the coast (<20 km) north of the outlet of the Rhine. South of this outlet the median Cd, Cu and Zn concentrations fell by 45, 29 and 17%, respectively, and in the open sea area (>20 km offshore) the median concentrations for Cu and Zn fell by 35 and 18%, respectively. The largest reduction (80%) of the median concentration of PCBs occurred in the surface sediment in the open sea area (>20 km offshore) between 1986 and 1996. During this period the median PCBs concentration fell by nearly 70% close to the coast. The median PAH concentration fell by only 26% north of the outlet of the Rhine (<20 km from the coast) between 1986 and 1996. In the other areas there was no significant change. Possible reasons are that the main sources of PAHs are in the North Sea itself and that the load of PAHs from dredged material dumped in the Dutch coastal zone increased during the period studied. The reduction of the concentrations of metals and organic micropollutants in the surface sediments of the Dutch coastal zone is explained by a conservative physical mixing model, in which the previously polluted silt fraction in the surface sediments is replaced by less polluted suspended matter. There is a time lag of several years between the trend in the load of Cd and PCBs and the observed field concentration. The half life of the silt fraction and associated substances in the surface sediments is 1.9. Taking the uncertainties in the loads into account, the calculated surface sediment concentrations for Cd and PCBs agree fairly well with the field measurements. It is concluded that there are three main reasons for the decline in the metal, PCB and PAH concentrations in the highly dynamic surface sediments of the Dutch coastal zone: (1) the decrease in the load from various sources; (2) the sedimentation and mixing of less polluted suspended matter into the active sediment layer; and (3) the washing out of previously deposited more heavily polluted particles.     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

砾石海滩的沉积和形态动力特征

天然砾石海滩的物质主要来源于河流输入，海岸侵蚀，海底侵蚀，沿岸输送，人类活动及冰川搬运等，砾石海滩在地貌上表现出明显的分带性，海滩坡度的大小随物源和动力条件发生变化，砾石的磨蚀速率与岩性及周围沉积物粒度组成有关，人工砾石海滩建设可借鉴天然砾石海滩的形成和演化过程，合理地设计物质组成，砾石形状和大小，以便能更快地使人工海滩达到平衡状态并维持海滩的稳定性。     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

东海岛东北部砂质岸滩年度冲淤变化及沉积物运移分析

东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。     

Effects of shoreline and bedrock irregularities on the morphodynamics of the Alexandria coast littoral cell,Egypt

Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*10⁶ m³) has increased slightly by 0.041*10⁶ m³ year^–1 as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge.     

海滩风暴效应若干问题思考与我国研究前景

热带风暴是一种频发的灾害性事件,其诱发的大浪及其伴生的风暴潮会在短时间内搬运大量沉积物,对海岸地貌、海底地形和海洋沉积的影响极为严重.总结了未来风暴变化趋势和风暴动力方面的研究进展,概述了近几十年来海滩风暴效应领域几个重要方向的进展,内容包括岸滩风暴灾害调查和研究、海滩风暴效应差异性研究、风暴作用下的泥沙运动和岸滩风暴响应沉积学特征等方面.从国内外的研究现状来看,我国在风暴作用下泥沙运动实测与定量分析、多因素耦合控制下海滩风暴效应差异和海滩风暴地貌过程等方面存在着明显的不足.作为我国海岸科学研究中必需又薄弱的环节,今后该领域的研究应该在强化野外现场实验和监测的基础上,深入探讨极端条件下的海滩过程,发展海滩风暴响应预测模型,并积极开展海滩风暴潮防护技术开发与应用.     

海南岛东南浅海表层沉积物粒度特征及沉积环境

对海南岛东南浅海377组表层沉积物样品(平均水深112.3 m)开展粒度测定及沉积物类型划分,并运用统计规律及沉积输运趋势分析,探讨了底质沉积物分布格局与物质来源及沉积动力环境关系。结果表明,海南岛东南浅海沉积物类型复杂,共分布13种沉积物类型,粒度组成以粉砂和砂为主,平均粒径均值为5.73Φ,优势粒级为细粉砂级(6~8Φ),分选差。不同海域沉积物粒径差异明显,北部近岸以含砾沉积为主,中部呈NE-SW向的砂质沉积区(水深80~120 m),西南近岸滨海、北中部海域以及东南部海域多为粉砂、黏土沉积。结合地理位置、沉积物源及水动力条件差异,研究区划分为3个沉积区:I区主要以含砾粗颗粒沉积为主,受控于海南岛上径流及强风浪作用,物质来源以万泉河等河流输运及岸线侵蚀物质为主,强动力(高能)沉积环境;II区以砂沉积为主,受到表层流及风浪等共同影响,可能主要是残留滨海沉积混入了海南岛径流及岸线侵蚀、少量珠江流域及外海复杂来源等现代细粒物质的混合沉积,中等动力沉积环境;III区以细粒沉积为主,主要受华南近岸流、风浪作用及南海暖流影响,推测物质来源主要为海南岛河流输入、岸线侵蚀及复杂外海来源细粒物质的加入,弱动力(低能)沉积环境。     

闽浙沿岸沉积物的工程地质特性及其成因简析

根据闽浙沿岸沉积物的实验室分析资料,从物理性质和力学特征对海底沉积物的综合工程地质特征进行了研究,结果发现,本区沉积物以淤泥和淤泥质黏土为主,含少量细砂、粉砂、黏土和粉质黏土等,总的表现为含水率高、孔隙比大、压缩性强、塑性大和强度低。从微观结构、物质来源、物质成分、水动力条件等方面对沉积物的工程特性进行了成因分析,这些因素是造成本区沉积物工程性质不良的主要原因。     

基于原位观测的胶州湾沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程研究

海洋动力作用下,河口海岸地区海床通常处于动态变化之中。作为地质环境的控制因素,海床沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程的研究具有重要意义。为阐明胶州湾海域水动力条件对海床侵蚀再悬浮的作用,本文利用海底原位观测三脚架进行了现场观测。观测结果显示：通常条件下,潮流导致的最大海床剪应力可达0.35 N/m²,高于波浪引起的剪应力。涨潮期间,海床发生侵蚀;退潮期间,海床发生淤积。风速达到5 m/s时,波浪引起的剪应力近似等于流致剪应力。风速达到7 m/s时,有效波高为26 cm,波浪对海床侵蚀再悬浮过程起主要作用;此时也会导致海水浊度显著上升,高于通常条件下的2-8倍。分析表明：通常条件下,周期性海流影响海床侵蚀再悬浮过程;而大幅度沉积物再悬浮过程由偶发的波浪事件控制。针对胶州湾沉积物动力学机制的深入研究仍待进一步开展。     

山东半岛白沙滩及邻近海域沉积物分布与控制因素

对山东半岛白沙滩及邻近海域表层沉积物进行了粒度分析,结合相关的地质水文资料,探讨了海岸形态对沉积物粒度的影响.研究区底质类型以黏土质粉砂和砂质粉砂为主,由东北经古龙咀岬角向西南形成S形黏土质粉砂分布带,险岛湾地区沉积物呈带状由砂逐渐过渡到粉砂,潮汐和波浪是本区沉积物输运的主要水动力,岬角的存在影响了沉积物粒度的分布,粒度趋势分析表明沉积物整体有向岬角汇聚的输运趋势.     

广西北海涠洲岛典型岸滩剖面短期冲淤变化特征

基于涠洲岛2012年12月、2013年7月和2013年12月砂质岸滩剖面高程数据以及沉积物粒度数据,作者分析了2012~2013年涠洲岛砂质海岸短期冲淤变化。结果表明:(1)2012年12月~2013年7月,在热带风暴的影响下,涠洲岛大部分岸滩发生侵蚀现象,侵蚀最严重部位一般在中滩;(2)2012年12月~2013年12月,侵蚀岸段主要在东南部、西南部和西北部低滩,淤积岸段主要在北部、西北部高中滩;(3)根据沉积物颗粒平均粒径分析结果,一般高滩沉积物较低滩粗,说明水动力环境高滩相对较强,各岸段沉积物颗粒变化基本与岸滩剖面冲淤变化相一致。短时期内,影响涠洲岛岸滩冲淤变化的因素有波浪、潮汐、风暴潮和人类活动等。     

基于遥感分析渤海湾冬季表层悬浮体浓度变化规律

渤海湾是三面环陆的半封闭浅水海湾,海底泥沙悬浮与输运对海洋工程与生态环境有重要影响。冬季是渤海泥沙输运、海床冲刷和海底灾害的主要发生季节,但冬季观测(特别是连续观测)难度大,观测资料相对缺乏,研究冬季悬浮体分布与输运规律对海洋生态环境保护和海洋工程维护等具有指导意义,对认识近海物质及能量循环有重要科学价值。本文基于海洋水色卫星GOCI(Geostationary Ocean Color Imager)遥感影像资料,对渤海湾冬季悬浮体浓度进行了长达8年监测,提取2011—2017年冬季(11、12、1、2月)悬浮体浓度(Total Suspended Sediment, TSS)月平均数据,对渤海湾冬季悬浮体分布情况及输运规律进行研究。结果表明,渤海湾冬季的表层悬浮体浓度分布呈现近岸高离岸低、南岸高北岸低的规律,悬浮体浓度的高值区主要分布于黄河口附近以及渤海湾南岸一带,该海域冬季TSS在80mg/L以上,最高可达200mg/L;海河口及辽东湾沿岸流区域各存在一个低值区,悬浮体浓度介于0—40mg/L。冬季大风天气对水体扰动剧烈,导致渤海湾海底泥沙再悬浮,风速与悬浮体浓度存在正相关性。同时,冬季渤海湾沿岸流等环流增强,使黄河口再悬浮的沉积物向渤海湾西部和北部扩散。     

围海工程对邻近港区泥沙回淤的影响研究—以漳州港招商局中银码头区为例

针对港区附近围海造地造成的港区泥沙回淤量增大问题，以漳州港招商局中银码头区为例，全面分析了漳州港海域的地形地貌、水动力特征、泥沙特性和岸滩自然演变。根据工程建设前后地形变化，结合岸线回填量和九龙江输沙资料，分析了围海造地对岸滩演变及港区码头回淤的影响。研究表明，围海工程实施后，邻近港区的泥沙回淤由自然回淤、滩地抬高和回填引起的浑水回淤三部分组成。当围海工程结束，新岸滩调整达平衡后，泊位及港池的回淤将逐渐降至正常自然回淤强度。     

Dealing with erosion along the Danube Delta coast. The CONSCIENCE experience towards a sustainable coastline management

The most severe shoreline retreat (over 20 m/year) along the Danube Delta coast has been recorded in the coastal stretch confined by the Sulina branch (north) and Sahalin spit island (south). This erosive trend is caused by the natural evolution of some stretches of the Danube Delta coast, but strongly enhanced by the human activities. Human interventions result in the dramatic decrease in quantity of sediments reaching the coast and in the disruption of natural sediment circulation in the coastal area. EUROSION FP5 Project developed four concepts to be used in coastal studies: coastal sediment cell, coastal resilience, favourable sediment status and strategic sediment reservoir. The main objectives of this study regard the application of the CONSCIENCE methodology and test of the concepts in order to identify and understand the main threats for Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, especially the coastal erosion one, as well as to provide a sound working methodology for coastal managers to deal with these threats. The sediment budget computed in previous studies, as well as the field observations, indicate a lack of sediments for the littoral cell (unfavourable sediment status). In order to asses the vulnerability of the coast to short term extreme events (especially storms), simulations of water level changes were performed and calibrated with the field observations. A processes based numerical model was used to simulate the storm induced water level variations and the main input data were the bathymetry of the active beach, wind direction and speed (storm scenarios) and the characteristics of water and air. The results show large water level increases for the central part of the study zone, especially for northern wind directions.The main solution proposed to deal the problems arising from a sediment-starved coast, vulnerable to the extreme events, is artificial nourishment. Two strategic sediment reservoirs were identified, both of them at the northern boundary of the cell: the sediments dredged periodically from Sulina mouth and the sediments accumulated in Musura Bay, just north of Sulina jetties. The transfer of these sediments towards the central part of the littoral cell Sulina - Sahalin would decrease the erosion rates to a natural level and restore the natural coastal resilience. The methodology developed in CONSCIENCE Framework and applied to Danube Delta coastal zone provided good results when problems and solutions for the coastal zone were to be identified and tested. This methodology and its related results can be applied by the local coastal managers to Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, while this experience can be extended to other similar environments facing the same problems.     

长江口崇明东滩水域悬沙粒径组成和再悬浮作用特征

根据2006年10月在崇明东滩潮间带和潮下带两个站位的大小潮水文泥沙观测资料和悬沙水样的室内粒度分析资料,对悬沙粒径的时空分布特征及其与流速等的关系进行了分析,并对再悬浮特点进行了探讨,结果表明,大小潮期间的悬沙颗粒组成较细,平均粒径的均值仅为6μm;大潮时的悬沙粒径略粗于小潮的,潮间带的略粗于潮下带的;由底床向上悬沙粒径趋于减小。悬沙粒径与流速、悬沙含量无明显的统计学关系,底质粒径、再悬浮强度和再悬浮泥沙粒径的空间变化以及浮泥的悬浮作用等是主要的影响因素。由于底质粒径的空间分布复杂,在东滩水域再悬浮具有明显的空间变化。在底质平均粒径大于60μm的粗颗粒沉积区,大小潮的再悬浮作用微小,底质以推移质运动为主。在底质平均粒径介于5~11μm的细颗粒沉积区上,悬沙级配与底质级配基本相同,该区域是再悬浮的主要发生源地;悬沙级配的变化过程揭示,再悬浮对底层悬沙的贡献率平均为8%~20%,大潮时的再悬浮强度是小潮的5~10倍,由底质再悬浮产生的悬沙在底部水层中的平均含量约为0.03~0.47 kg/m3。     

青岛市灵山湾海水浴场表层沉积物粒度冬季变化特征及其原因

于2013年11月、2014年1月及3月在青岛市灵山湾海水浴场进行了3次表层沉积物采样,对粒度组分和粒度参数平面分布的变化进行了分析。结果表明,本区沉积物整体有变粗的趋势,细砂组分特别是极细砂和粉砂组分含量下降明显,分选性变好,正偏态及高峰度分布区扩大,粒度参数高值分布区被消除。粒径趋势分析表明,在涨潮流与强盛的冬季风驱动的风浪、沿岸流的综合作用下,研究区沉积物总体呈北东-南西向沿岸输运,运移趋势变化受到波浪、潮流水动力条件与地形相互作用的影响。短期的波能变化足以改变沙滩地貌,从而影响表层沉积物的分布。可为浴场维护提供理论依据。     

厦门湾海域表层沉积物分布特征及其动力响应

沉积物分布对河口海岸地区的地貌演变和岸线变化非常重要。本文收集了2008年9月厦门湾海域的230个表层沉积物样品的数据,研究其表层沉积物空间分布和运输特征。厦门湾海域表沉积物的粒度分布特征非常明显。同时在应用GSTA模型对沉积物进行输运趋势分析的基础上探讨该区域泥沙运移趋势。结果表明,该海域有八种沉积物类型,粘土质粉砂占有比例最高,为65.22%;而且在不同的分区,由于不同的沉积物源和水动力条件,粒度参数特征也有所不同。径流、潮汐和波浪是海床表层沉积物、滩涂变化的主要控制动力,泥沙运动趋势与水动力条件密切相关。     

天津塘沽驴驹河-独流减河潮间带沉积物特征研究

通过对研究区潮间带36个表层沉积物的定位采样,采用综合法对样品进行粒度分析。结果表明,研究区潮间带表层沉积物由-粉砂质极细砂、极细砂-粉砂-粘土、粉砂-粘土-极细砂、极细砂质粉砂、极细砂-粉砂、粉砂和极细砂组成,从岸边向潮下带方向表层沉积物由细变粗;由于修建海滨浴场,改变了岸线的轮廓使水流发生变化,从驴驹河-独流减河潮间带表层沉积物粒度由粗变细;垂向上,由于修建海防公路造成岸线后退,沉积物表现为下粗上细,这些特征与本地区的人类活动和水动力条件变化密切相关。     

琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究

岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。