沙纹床面摩阻引起的波高沿程衰减

在浅水区的砂质床面上传播的波浪当其强度达到一定条件后,将使底床形成沙纹床面;由于沙纹床面上的底部剪应力远大于平床面上的底部剪应力,因此,在沙纹床面上传播的波浪比在平床面上传播的波浪的衰减要快得多.本研究在波浪水槽中对沙纹床面上传播的波浪的沿程衰减进行了探讨,同时,对水槽两侧壁边界层摩阻对波高衰减的影响做了分析.本文给出的理论成果与实验成果的比较表明,两者符合很好.     

非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙数值研究

本文用了一个可考虑相位差作用和波浪边界层非对称性的瞬态理论模型和一个两相紊流模型共同研究非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙现象。为了解速度偏度和加速度偏度对输沙通量和输沙率的贡献,两相流模型为理论模型提供了必要的相位超前、瞬时侵蚀深度和边界层的发展过程。理论模型研究显示了由速度偏度和加速度偏度引起的向岸阶段和离岸阶段的泥沙运动非对称性,解释了净输沙的产生原因。在以往的非对称歪斜波片流输沙研究中,净输沙的产生主要被归结于相位差作用。本文的研究则表明了非对称的边界层发展所产生的净流量和动床面效应在净输沙产生过程中的比相位差作用更为重要。     

采用波能法计算沙质海岸输沙率

本文介绍了采用波能法计算沙质海岸输沙率。通过实例计算,对各种方法进行了评价,并把计算结果与实测地形进行比较,从而找出计算输沙率的最佳公式。并且对规范法和美国SPM法编制了计算程序,对某港附近岸滩输沙进行了计算,其结果与地质地貌调查研究的结论相符,因而已被工程实践所采用。     

黄河下游泥沙输沙率的预测

利用黄河利津站的精密水文泥沙测量结果对一些常用水流泥沙输沙率公式进行验证表明，Ｖａｎ Ｒｉｊｎ公式最适合于黄河泥沙输沙率的预测，对公式做部分校正则可以大大提高其预测能力。     

海底管道冲刷势流模型的改进

对Li&Cheng的势流模型在数值方法、床面平衡条件及冲刷床面调整技术做出了3方面的改进。采用边界元法代替差分法求解Laplace方程,前者可以准确地拟合地形与管道边界,因而可以准确反映固壁边界对流态的影响,此外,还具有数据准备简单,降低计算维数,计算速度快等优点。Li&Cheng模型以床面水流切应力等于泥沙起动切应力,τb=τc,作为床面平衡条件,这只适用于清水冲刷。以沿程输沙相同作为平衡剖面条件,理论上,将模型推广到了动床冲刷。此外,为了提高模型的收敛性,提出了最速下降法与牛顿迭代法相结合的床面调整技术。采用实验资料对模型进行了检验,计算的冲刷深度与实验结果符合良好。     

沙质海岸强浪作用下沿岸输沙问题研究

在沙质海岸上修建导流堤、丁坝等会引起局部海域水沙动力条件的改变和海床冲淤调整,因此准确预测沿岸输沙率是海岸工程建设前进行优化设计的基础条件之一.首先构建了刻画高强度推移质输沙过程中固-液混合体运动的理论模型,通过寻求模型的特解并推导成1D沿岸输沙率公式.该公式适宜计算强浪作用下的推移质输沙率,已得到了大型波浪水槽、往复流水道和海滩现场实测输沙率资料的良好验证.通过与物理模型试验实测输沙量结果的比较,进一步表明该公式能够较好地预测沙质海岸在寒潮大风浪(或台风浪)作用下的高强度输沙量(骤淤量).     

应用现场实测波浪资料直接计算沿岸输沙率

本文应用波能流守恒法则，导得可直接应用现场实测波浪资料计算沿岸输沙率关系式。通过两个实例计算，说明计算值与实际沿岸输沙率一致。     

滨海输沙若干测定法及数模计算述评

本文介绍了沙质海岸滨岸输沙的一些测定方法和数模计算的研究现状，并评述其使用条件、方法可靠性的应用前景，为开展海洋泥沙运动和岸滩演变的研究工作提供新思路与借鉴。     

沙质海岸沿岸输沙率计算方法研究进展

准确预测波浪作用下沿岸输沙率是沙质海岸研究领域的重要科学问题。根据数十年来国内外沿岸输沙率公式的研究进展,按研究方法对各项成果进行分类,并兼顾时间逻辑,回顾了各研究方法的发展历程及其代表性成果。对各项成果的理论基础、考虑因素、资料来源等方面进行了探讨,并采用现场原型沙、室内原型沙和室内轻质沙等实测资料,对国内外常用公式的预测准确性进行了检验。结果表明,孙林云公式与各项实测资料的吻合程度最高,在众多沿岸输沙率公式中具有明显的先进性。在此基础上,对未来可进一步深化研究的方向作出了展望。     

后台阶下游床面冲刷过程数值模拟研究

以床面瞬时剪应力作为泥沙起动及输运的水动力机制,建立了结构物周围复杂流场下床面局部冲刷的数学模型。并应用大涡模拟方法对后台阶下游三维湍流流动进行数值模拟,得到台阶下游床面瞬时剪应力的分布规律。为了确定床面瞬时剪应力与泥沙上扬通量的关系,先应用数学模型对不同模型参数下,冲刷开始后5分钟时台阶下游床面形状进行试算。通过试算与实验结果的比较,确定床面瞬时剪应力与泥沙上扬通量关系中需要的模型参数。进一步对冲刷开始后30分钟内台阶下游床面演化规律进行模拟,模拟结果与实验结果相符合。     

Predicting Net Cross-Shore Total Load Transport: A Phase-Averaging, Quasi-Steady Approach Incorporating Undertow Contribution

Wave shapes that induce velocity skewness and acceleration asymmetry are usually responsible for onshore sediment transport, whereas undertow and bottom slope effect normally contribute to offshore sediment transport. By incorporating these counteracting driving forces in a phase-averaged manner, the theoretically-based quasi-steady formula of Wang (2007) is modified to predict the magnitude and direction of net cross-shore total load transport under the coaction of wave and current. The predictions show an excellent agreement with the measurement data on medium and fine sand collected by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002) and Schretlen (2012) in a full-scale wave flume at the Coastal Research Centre in Hannover, Germany. The modified formula can predict the net onshore transport of fine sand in sheet flows. In particular, it can predict the net offshore transport of medium sand in rippled beds through enlarged bed roughness, as well as the net offshore transport of fine-to-coarse sand in sheet flows with the aid of a new criterion to judge the occurrence of net offshore transport.     

Practical sand transport formula for non-breaking waves and currents

Many existing practical sand transport formulae for the coastal marine environment are restricted to a limited range of hydrodynamic and sand conditions. This paper presents a new practical formula for net sand transport induced by non-breaking waves and currents. The formula is especially developed for cross-shore sand transport under wave-dominated conditions and is based on the semi-unsteady, half wave-cycle concept, with bed shear stress as the main forcing parameter. Unsteady phase-lag effects between velocities and concentrations, which are especially important for rippled bed and fine sand sheet-flow conditions, are accounted for through parameterisations. Recently-recognised effects on the net transport rate related to flow acceleration skewness and progressive surface waves are also included. To account for the latter, the formula includes the effects of boundary layer streaming and advection effects which occur under real waves, but not in oscillatory tunnel flows. The formula is developed using a database of 226 net transport rate measurements from large-scale oscillatory flow tunnels and a large wave flume, covering a wide range of full-scale flow conditions and uniform and graded sands with median diameter ranging from 0.13 mm to 0.54 mm. Good overall agreement is obtained between observed and predicted net transport rates with 78% of the predictions falling within a factor 2 of the measurements. For several distinctly different conditions, the behaviour of the net transport with increasing flow strength agrees well with observations, indicating that the most important transport processes in both the rippled bed and sheet flow regime are well captured by the formula. However, for some flow conditions good quantitative agreement could only be obtained by introducing separate calibration parameters. The new formula has been validated against independent net transport rate data for oscillatory flow conditions and steady flow conditions.     

Sand transport under combined current and wave conditions: A semi-unsteady,practical model

For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves.The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore.A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed.     

Propagation of water waves over permeable rippled beds

Unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and Navier-Stokes type model equations for porous flow were solved numerically to simulate the propagation of water waves over a permeable rippled bed. A boundary-fitted coordinate system was adopted to make the computational meshes consistent with the rippled bed. The accuracy of the numerical scheme was confirmed by comparing the numerical results concerning the spatial distribution of wave amplitudes over impermeable and permeable rippled beds with the analytical solutions. For periodic incident waves, the flow field over the wavy wall is discussed in terms of the steady Eulerian streaming velocity. The trajectories of the fluid particles that are initially located close to the ripples were also determined. One of the main results herein is that under the action of periodic water waves, fluid particles on an impermeable rippled bed initially moved back and forth around the ripple crest, with increasing vertical distance from the rippled wall. After one or two wave periods, they are then lifted towards the next ripple crest. All of the marked particles on a permeable rippled bed were shifted onshore with a much larger displacement than those on an impermeable bed. Finally, the flow fields and the particle motions close to impermeable and permeable beds induced by a solitary wave are elucidated.     

A 2D Mathematical Model for Sediment Transport by Waves and Tidal Currents

In this study, the combined actions of waves and tidal currents in estuarine and coastal areas are considered and a 2D mathematical model for sediment transport by waves and tidal currents has been established in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates. Non-equilibrium transport equations of suspended load and bed load are used in the model. The concept of background concentration is introduced, and the formula of sediment transport capacity of tidal currents for the Oujiang River estuary is obtained. The Dou Guoren formula is employed for the sediment transport capacity of waves. Sediment transport capacity in the form of mud and the intensity of back silting are calculated by use of Luo Zaosen＇ s formula. The calculated tidal stages are in good agreement with the field data, and the calculated velocities and flow directions of 46 vertical lines for 8 cross sections are also in good agreement with the measured data. On such a basis, simulations of back silting after excavation of the waterway with a sand bar under complicated boundary conditions in the navigation channel induced by suspended load, bed load and mud by waves and tidal currents are discussed.     

Development of All-Weather and Real-Time Bottom-Mounted Monitor of Bed Load Quantity

Quantity of bed load is an important physical parameter in sediment transport research. Aiming at the difficulties in the bed load measurement, this paper develops a bottom-mounted monitor to measure the bed load transport rate by adopting the sedimentation pit method and resolving such key problems as weighing and desilting, which can achieve long-time, all-weather and real-time telemeasurement of the bed load transport rate of plain rivers, estuaries and coasts. Both laboratory and field tests show that this monitor is reasonable in design, stable in properties and convenient in measurement, and it can be used to monitor the bed load transport rate in practical projects.     

Predictability of wave-induced net sediment transport using the conventional 1DV RANS diffusion model

Based on a large database of laboratory experiments, the predictability of the conventional one-dimensional vertical Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) diffusion model is systematically investigated with respect to wave-induced net sediment transport. The predicted net sediment transport rates are compared with the measured data of 176 physical experiments in wave flumes and oscillating water tunnels, covering a wide range of wave conditions (surface, skewed, and asymmetric waves with and without currents), sediment conditions (fine, medium, and coarse sands with median grain diameters ranging from 0.13 to 0.97 mm) and bed forms (flat beds and rippled beds), corresponding to various sediment dynamic regions in the near-shore area. Comparisons show that the majority (73 %) of predictions on a flat bed are within a factor 2 of the measurements. The model behaves much better for medium/coarse sand than for fine sand. The model generally underpredicts the transport rates beneath asymmetric waves and overpredicts the fine sand transport beneath skewed waves. Nevertheless, the model behaves well in reproducing the transport rates under surface waves. A detailed discussion and a quantitative measure of the overall model performance are made. The poor model predictability for fine sand cases is mainly due to the underestimation of unsteady phase-lag effect. It is revealed that the model predictability can be significantly improved by implementing alternative bedload formulas and incorporating more physical processes (mobile-bed roughness, hindered settling, and turbulence damping).     

An experimental investigation of the velocity field under cnoidal waves over the asymmetric rippled bed

1 IntroductionIn coastal areas a ubiquitous phenomenon is theformation of ripples in the seabed. It is now widelyaccepted that the flow and sediment transport overseabed are vital in relation to erosion, surface wavedissipation and pollution dispersion et…     

Three simple models of wave sediment transport

The process of sediment transport by nonbreaking waves over horizontal, rippled beds is presented by three different models which are evaluated through comparison with wave flume data. The conclusion from this testing is “the simpler the better”. It is shown that the process in question can in fact be modelled adequately without quantitative consideration of the suspended sediment distribution. Only a reference average concentration at the bed is needed. On the other hand, classical diffusion models severely underpredict the transport of coarse sand in suspension because the process is much more organized than diffusion. The possibility of adapting the models to conditions involving sheet flow and/or breaking waves is discussed.     

Two-Dimensional Mathematical Model of Tidal Current and Sediment for Oujiang Estnary and Wenzhou Bay

A 2-D mathematical model of tidal current and sediment has been developed for the Oujiang Estuary and the WenzhouBay. This model accomodates complicated features including multiple islands, existence of turbidity, and significant differ-ence in size distribution of bed material. The governing equations for non-uniform suspended load and bed load transport arepresented in a boundary-fitted orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. The numerical solution procedures along with theirinitial conditions, boundary conditions, and movable boundary technique are presented. Strategies for computation of thecritical condition of deposition or erosion, sediment transport capacity, non-uniform bed load discharge, etc. are suggested.The model verification computation shows that, the tidal levels computed from the model are in good agreement with the fielddata at the 18 tidal gauge stations. The computed velocities and flow directions also agree well with the values measuredalong the totally 52 synchronously observed verticals distributed over 8 cross sections. The computed tidal water throughputsthrough the Huangda‘ao cross section are close to the measured data. And the computed values of bed deformation fromYangfushan to the estuary outfall and in the outer-sea area are in good agreement with the data observed from 1986 to 1992.The changes of tidal volumes through the estuary, velocities in different channels and the bed form due to the influence of thereclamation project on the Wenzhou shoal are predicted by means of this model.