Geomorphology,acoustic backscatter,and processes in Santa Monica Bay from multibeam mapping

Santa Monica Bay was mapped in 1996 using a high-resolution multibeam system, providing the first substantial update of the submarine geomorphology since the initial compilation by Shepard and Emery [(1941) Geol. Soc. Amer. Spec. Paper 31]. The multibeam mapping generated not only high-resolution bathymetry, but also coregistered, calibrated acoustic backscatter at 95 kHz. The geomorphology has been subdivided into six provinces; shelf, marginal plateau, submarine canyon, basin slope, apron, and basin. The dimensions, gradients, and backscatter characteristics of each province is described and related to a combination of tectonics, climate, sea level, and sediment supply. Fluctuations of eustatic sea level have had a profound effect on the area; by periodically eroding the surface of Santa Monica plateau, extending the mouth of the Los Angeles River to various locations along the shelf break, and by connecting submarine canyons to rivers. A wetter glacial climate undoubtedly generated more sediment to the rivers that then transported the increased sediment load to the low-stand coastline and canyon heads. The trends of Santa Monica Canyon and several bathymetric highs suggest a complex tectonic stress field that has controlled the various segments. There is no geomorphic evidence to suggest Redondo Canyon is fault controlled. The San Pedro fault can be extended more than 30 km to the northwest by the alignment of a series of bathymetric highs and abrupt changes in direction of channel thalwegs.     

Marine geology of St. George’s Bay, Newfoundland, as interpreted from multibeam bathymetry and back-scatter data

 Multibeam bathymetric data collected in St. George’s Bay, Newfoundland, show glacial and postglacial landforms in a 100-m-deep basin offshore from a barrier. Back-scatter data provide information on sediment lithology. Features undetected by previous conventional surveys include large bedforms on the surface of a barrier platform and submarine fans on its flanks. The data demonstrate that sediment transport processes are more complex than was previously believed. Multibeam bathymetric images are the sea-floor equivalents of air photographs. They can be used effectively to plan conventional acoustic surveys. Received: 16 February 1996 / Revision received: 4 September 1996     

Character and distribution of exposed glaciodeltaic deposits off outer Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and their effects on hydrogeology and benthic habitats

Seabed outcrops of glaciodeltaic sediments were identified in four places east of Cape Cod, Massachusetts, during seismic-reflection, multibeam bathymetric and backscatter, bottom photographic, and sediment sampling surveys. These strata record coarser-grained ice-proximal glaciofluvial topset to finer-grained distal glaciolacustrine bottomset deposition within deltaic systems that prograded southwestward into glacial lakes from the South Channel lobe about 18 ka b.p. These beds are important because they (1) influence the outer Cape’s hydrogeologic framework, and (2) constitute relatively stable, locally rough habitats within an area of seafloor dominated by mobile sand and gravelly sediment, and benefit the benthic fauna by providing shelter and a substrate amenable to burrow construction.     

Sedimentary facies of the eastern Pacific's northernmost reef-like setting (Cabo Pulmo,Mexico)

Cabo Pulmo, Mexico, is often cited as the eastern Pacific's northernmost coral reef. We investigated sedimentary dynamics to verify whether the system functions sedimentologically as a reef, which would mean that it retained internal sediment in a framework and exported peri-reefal sediment creating clearly identifiable facies dominated by reefal fauna. We mapped distribution of sediments using grab samples, the acoustic ground-discrimination systems QTC View and Echoplus at 50 kHz signal frequency and an IKONOS satellite image. Morphologically, the bay of Cabo Pulmo can be divided into intrusive dikes and rocky hardgrounds in less than 10 m depth and a sandy interior with rocky outcrops sloping to over 40 m. Reefal fauna without lasting framework-building but with production of typically reef-associated carbonate sediments, as well as a patch-reef facies were found on the dikes and hardgrounds. Sediments in the bay were a mixture of carbonates and siliciclastics and were influenced by a seasonal river near the bay's center that imported siliciclastic material. To the north and south sediments had a higher carbonate content, although overall the bay was characterized by > 50% siliciclastics. The shallower subtidal sands were dominated by mollusk fragments, whereas in depths > 30 m planktonic foraminiferal sand was found. Acoustically and optically remote-sensed maps were used to differentiate between the rocky and sandy areas and to identify the presumed off-shelf transport pathway of reef-derived carbonates. Overall, the sedimentary system is characterized by carbonate production, but the coarser reef derived carbonates (coral and reef-dwelling mollusks) are transported off-shelf along a steep depth gradient and little typical peri-reef sediment remains. This transport is likely aided by storms. Since no sediment retaining frameworks are formed, the dikes cannot retain internal sediment, and the reefal fauna was not dominant in sediments throughout the bay, we conclude that Cabo Pulmo sedimentologically functions only in a limited way like a coral reef.     

Environmental overview of Eckernförde Bay,northern Germany

This environmental overview of Eckernförde Bay (northern Germany) summarizes the results of previous studies relevant to the Office of Naval Research's Coastal Benthic Boundary Layer (CBBL) Baltic field exercise conducted during 1993–1994. Significant environmental characteristics include the following: (1) surface sediment distribution is related to water depth, dictated primarily by hydrodynamic reworking of older glacial deposits; (2) the origin and characteristics of small-scale sedimentary structures depend on storm-generated waves and currents; (3) the proximity of the sea surface and sediment —water interface results in a pelagic—benthic coupling that drives biogeochemical processes and produces organicrich, acoustically turbid sediments; and (4) the bay floor is complicated topographically by pockmarks and manmade sedimentary structures.     

Delta lobe degradation and hurricane impacts governing large-scale coastal behavior,South-central Louisiana,USA

A large deficit in the coastal sediment budget, high rates of relative sea-level rise (~0.9 cm/year), and storm-induced current and wave erosion are forcing barrier shoreface retreat along the periphery of the Mississippi River delta plain. Additionally, conversion of interior wetlands to open water has increased the bay tidal prism, resulting in degradation of barrier islands due to inlet widening, formation of new inlets, and sediment sequestration at ebb-tidal deltas. Single-beam bathymetric surveys along a 165-km stretch of south-central Louisiana barrier coast, from Raccoon Point in Terrebonne Parish to Sandy Point in Plaquemines Parish, were conducted in 2006. These data, combined with historical bathymetry from three time periods (dating to the 1880s), provide a series of digital elevation models that were used to calculate sediment volumetric changes and determine long-term erosional-depositional trends. Dominant patterns during the 125-year period include (1) erosion of ~1.6 × 10⁹ m³ from the shoreface, forcing up to 3 km of shoreface retreat, (2) sediment deposition in coastal bights and at ebb-tidal deltas, and (3) a combined increase in tidal inlet cross-sectional area from ~41,400 m² to ~139,500 m². Bathymetric and shoreline change datasets separated by shorter time periods (sub-annual) demonstrate that these long-term trends are driven by processes associated with major hurricane impacts, and that rates of shoreface erosion are an order of magnitude greater during active hurricane seasons compared to long-term trends.     

Calibration techniques and sampling resolution requirements for groundtruthing multibeam acoustic backscatter (EM3000) and QTC VIEW™ classification technology

Both acoustic and sediment surveys were carried out in the Broughton Archipelago, British Columbia, in order to map a former aquaculture site and calibrate acoustic surveys with georeferenced sediment properties. The acoustic surveys included EM3000 Multibeam (including backscatter) and QTC VIEW™ (Series IV) technologies, while the geotechnical survey entailed Van Veen grab sampling of surface sediments and associated analyses. The two acoustic technologies were consistent in their ability to identify distinct regions of seafloor characterized by rock outcrops, consolidated substrates, or gel-mud depositional fields. Both multibeam backscatter data and QTC VIEW™ number-coded classifications were extracted across a range of circular areas located at each georeferenced sampling station (radii: 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 12, 16, 20 m). Statistical correlations were observed between backscatter and certain geotechnical properties, such as sediment porosity, sediment grain size fractions (<2 μm, silt content), and particulate sulfur concentration. The areal resolution of backscatter extraction was explored in terms of determining a sensitive calibration technique between backscatter and sediment properties. In general the highest r² values between backscatter and sediment variables were observed across extraction radii between 8 and 20 m. Such groundtruthing techniques could be used to interpolate seafloor characteristics between sampling stations and provide a steering tool for sampling designs associated with benthic monitoring programs.     

Discontinuous hindcast simulations of estuarine bathymetric change: A case study from Suisun Bay,California

Simulations of estuarine bathymetric change over decadal timescales require methods for idealization and reduction of forcing data and boundary conditions. Continuous simulations are hampered by computational and data limitations and results are rarely evaluated with observed bathymetric change data. Bathymetric change data for Suisun Bay, California span the 1867–1990 period with five bathymetric surveys during that period. The four periods of bathymetric change were modeled using a coupled hydrodynamic-sediment transport model operated at the tidal-timescale. The efficacy of idealization techniques was investigated by discontinuously simulating the four periods. The 1867–1887 period, used for calibration of wave energy and sediment parameters, was modeled with an average error of 37% while the remaining periods were modeled with error ranging from 23% to 121%. Variation in post-calibration performance is attributed to temporally variable sediment parameters and lack of bathymetric and configuration data for portions of Suisun Bay and the Delta. Modifying seaward sediment delivery and bed composition resulted in large performance increases for post-calibration periods suggesting that continuous simulation with constant parameters is unrealistic. Idealization techniques which accelerate morphological change should therefore be used with caution in estuaries where parameters may change on sub-decadal timescales. This study highlights the utility and shortcomings of estuarine geomorphic models for estimating past changes in forcing mechanisms such as sediment supply and bed composition. The results further stress the inherent difficulty of simulating estuarine changes over decadal timescales due to changes in configuration, benthic composition, and anthropogenic forcing such as dredging and channelization.     

A snapshot of suspended sediment and fluid mud occurrence in a mixed-energy embayment, Tijucas Bay, Brazil

Along the southern Brazilian coast, Tijucas Bay is known for its unique muddy tidal flats associated with chenier plains. Previous field observations pointed to very high suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs) in the inner parts of the bay, and in the estuary of the Tijucas River, suggesting the presence of fluid mud. In this study, the occurrences of suspended sediments and fluid mud were examined during a larger-scale, high-resolution 2-day field campaign on 1–2 May 2007, encompassing survey lines spanning nearly 80 km, 75 water sampling stations for near-bottom density estimates, and ten sediment sampling stations. Wave refraction modeling provided qualitative wave energy estimates as a function of different incidence directions. The results show that SSC increases toward the inner bay near the water surface, but seaward near the bottom. This suggests that suspended sediment is supplied by the local rivers, in particular the Tijucas. Near-surface SSCs were of the order of 50 mg l⁻¹ close to the shore, but exceeded 100 mg l⁻¹ near the bottom in the deeper parts of the bay. Fluid mud thickness and location given by densimetry and echo-sounding agreed in some places, although being mostly discordant. The best agreement was observed where wave energy was high during the campaign. The discrepancy between the two methods may be an indication for the existence of fluid mud, which is recorded by one method but not the other. Agreement is considered to be an indication of fluidization, whereas disagreement indicates more consolidation. Wave modeling suggests that waves from the ENE and SE are the most effective in supplying energy to the inner bay, which may induce the liquefaction of mud deposits to form fluid mud. Nearshore mud resuspension and weak horizontal currents result in sediment-laden offshore flow, which explains the higher SSCs measured in the deeper parts of the bay, besides providing a mechanism for fine-sediment export to the inner shelf.     

Wavelet analysis of bathymetric sidescan sonar data for the classification of seafloor sediments in Hopvågen Bay - Norway

In this paper we examine the use of bathymetric sidescan sonar for automatic classification of seabed sediments. Bathymetric sidescan sonar, here implemented through a small receiver array, retains the advantage of sidescan in speed through illuminating large swaths, but also enables the data gathered to be located spatially. The spatial location allows the image intensity to be corrected for depth and insonification angle, thus improving the use of the sonar for identifying changes in seafloor sediment. In this paper we investigate automatic tools for seabed recognition, using wavelets to analyse the image of Hopvågen Bay in Norway. We use the back-propagation elimination algorithm to determine the most significant wavelet features for discrimination. We show that the features selected present good agreement with the grab sample results in the survey under study and can be used in a classifier to discriminate between different seabed sediments.     

Trapping of fine sediment in a semi-enclosed bay, Palau, Micronesia

Airai Bay, Palau, is a small (3 km²), semi-enclosed, mangrove-fringed, meso-tidal, coral lagoon on the southeast coast of Palau. It drains a small catchment area (26 km²) of highly erodible soils in an area with high annual rainfall (3.7 m). River floods are short-lived and the sediment load is very large, with suspended fine sediment concentration exceeding 1500 mg l⁻¹. The resulting river plume is about 2 m thick. The brackish water residence time is about 7 days; during this period the plume remains a distinct surface feature even after river runoff has ceased. About 98% of the riverine fine sediment settles in Airai Bay, of which about 15–30% is deposited in the mangroves during river floods. This mud remains trapped in Airai Bay because the bay is protected from ocean swells and the tidal currents and locally generated wind waves are too small to resuspend the mud in quantity. The mud is smothering coral reefs, creating a phase shift from coral to fleshy algae dominance, and is even changing habitats by creating mud banks. The persistence of Airai Bay marine resources may not be possible without improved soil erosion control in the river catchment.     

Sediment characteristics and water circulation of Big Jemsa Bay,Red Sea,Egypt

Big Jemsa Bay is one of the indentations dissecting the continuity of the Red Sea north-western shoreline. The data was collected from bathymetric survey, current meters and sediment samples. Analyses have been undertaken of coastal processes, seabed morphology, grain size characteristics and the effect of current circulation on the distribution of sediment characteristics. The sediment pattern varies from coarse sand in the southern part to silt and fine sand in the northern part. The central part of the study area is mainly composed of terrigenous isometric-medium sand facies. The sorting distribution of sediments varies from moderately well sorted to poorly sort. The significant factors that control the sediment transport process are downslope gravity and wave-induced currents that are affected by the seafloor configuration and the shoreline orientation. According to the circulation effect on the sediment transport of the study area where deposition of fine sand and silt was observed in the northern part. Because sediment transport mitigates the occurrence of pollutant deposition in this part of the bay, we recommend that future constructions along the bay should be in the southern part.     

Seafloor character and sedimentary processes in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound

Multibeam bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles collected in eastern Long Island Sound and western Block Island Sound reveal previously unrecognized glacial features and modern bedforms. Glacial features include an ice-sculptured bedrock surface, a newly identified recessional moraine, exposed glaciolacustrine sediments, and remnants of stagnant-ice-contact deposits. Modern bedforms include fields of transverse sand waves, barchanoid waves, giant scour depressions, and pockmarks. Bedform asymmetry and scour around obstructions indicate that net sediment transport is westward across the northern part of the study area near Fishers Island, and eastward across the southern part near Great Gull Island.     

Characteristics of heavy minerals composition and distribution in surface sediment from the Xinghua Bay of Fujian, China

The composition, assemblage and distribution characteristics of heavy minerals from 63 to 125 μm grain sizes in surface sediment from the Xinghua Bay (17 stations) are studied. The matter source of silt and the relationship between heavy minerals and sedimentary environment are also discussed. The results show that there are 37 kinds of heavy minerals and the average content of them is 12.08%,which exceeds 6% compared with the Meizhou Bay (5.67%). The dominant minerals are magnetite, hornblende, epidote, ilmenite,hematite, limonite, zircon and so on. Mineral kinds reveal that the sources of silt in this bay are the fluvial input and eroded products of bedrock in circnmjacent land and islands of the Xinghua Bay. However, the matter source from outside this bay is less. Four mineral assemblage zones can be divided based on heavy mineral contents and distribution characteristics in the Xinghua Bay, which are not only influenced by matter source, but also controlled by hydrodynamic condition and sedimentary environment in the Xinghua Bay.     

Pockmarks in the inner Oslofjord,Norway

Multibeam bathymetric surveys of the Inner Oslofjord, Norway have revealed a high density of pockmarks in the 179-km² inner fjord area, which contains over 500 pockmarks of varying size, typically 20–50 m in diameter and 2–10 m deep. These pockmarks have been investigated with a variety of techniques, including acoustic subbottom profiling, sedimentological and geochemical analyses of cores, remotely operated vehicle observation, and morphometry. Both the distribution and shapes of the pockmarks suggest that they are related to structures in the bedrock underlying relatively thin (<50 m) unconsolidated glacial and postglacial sediments. The data provide no direct indication of a particular mode of pockmark formation, but release of large amounts of biogenic, shallow methane seems unlikely. Several lines of evidence point to a continuous process of pockmark formation followed by inactivity, with some pockmarks recently active whereas others have been inactive for a considerable time. Some pockmarks are characterised by coarse sediment in their centres. The density, variety and easy access make this pockmark field an ideal model area for pockmark research. John S. Gray is deceased.     

海底地形对洋中脊热液对流活动的影响研究

洋中脊热液活动多产生于不同扩张速率洋中脊的局部高地形区域，基于达西流体充填的孔隙?弹性热力学模型可以直观、有效地模拟出洋壳内部热液对流的形态、温度结构和喷发位置等信息。数值模拟结果和所得解析模型表明:不同规模的洋底地形起伏会对洋壳内部的热液对流形态产生不同程度的影响，高地形规模越大，起伏程度越大，下伏热液羽向地形高点的偏移就越明显。通过结合东太平洋海隆9°17′N热液区和大西洋洋中脊Lucky Strike热液区实际的跨轴水深分布，也可获得与二者实际喷发位置相吻合的模拟结果。地形起伏相关的洋中脊热液喷发模型揭示洋底低地形及其下伏渗透性洋壳表现为主要的海水充注区域，而高地形由于上覆压力的减小，使其成为汇集热液释放和喷发的主要区域。     

Sulfur stable isotopes indicate the source of sinking materials in a coastal bay: Otsuchi Bay,Sanriku, Japan

Through 2004 and 2005, δ ³⁴S of sinking material from Otsuchi Bay was measured at the center and rocky shore of the bay. At the center of the bay δ ³⁴S was high (18∼21‰) in the material collected from April to November. However, δ ³⁴S was low (9∼14‰) in the material collected from December to March. The increase in δ ³⁴S in April was attributed to an increase in phytoplankton biomass because marine phytoplanktonic δ ³⁴S is high. When δ ³⁴S of sinking material was low, input of riverine material or bottom sediment resuspension were considered as the probable causes, because their δ ³⁴S is low. Marine sulfur was always high (more than 70%) at both stations. The difference between the δ ³⁴S of sinking material collected from the different sampling stations indicates that marine macroalgae contribute to sinking material near the shore when phytoplankton is scarce. In conclusion, the relative influence of different material sources to sinking materials could be successfully estimated using δ ³⁴S.     

基于多波束背向散射强度信号的海底表层沉积物粒度分类研究——以澳洲Joseph Bonaparte湾为例

近海海底地形探测与沉积物精确分类对涉海工程建设、生物栖息地反演以及海底资源勘查与开发具有重要的现实意义。以澳洲Joseph Bonaparte湾为例，利用多波束测深技术获取了该海湾约880 km2水域的水深数据与背向散射强度信号，结合同步采集的54个海底表层沉积物样品，通过随机决策树模型对该海域海底表层沉积物进行了分类研究。结果表明:（1）利用随机决策树模型分析该海域沉积物类型与背向散射强度的关系时，当模型内部参数设置:树的总数为200，最小分裂节点为2，每棵树的最大分裂级数为5时，可提高预测准确率；（2）该参数设置下，利用13°和37°入射角的背向散射强度预测该海域沉积物类型时，准确率最高，其值为83.3%，且在研究海域，砂质砾和砾质砂分布在背向散射强度较强的深槽或海沟等地区，而砾质泥质砂和含砾泥质砂主要分布在背向散射强度较弱的浅水海域。分析还发现，当水深数据作为预测海底表层沉积物类型的特征变量时，有可能降低最终预测结果的准确率。     

Glacial morphology and post-glacial contourites in northern Prince Gustav Channel (NW Weddell Sea,Antarctica)

We present the results of a marine geophysical investigation of the northern Prince Gustav Channel. By comparative analysis of multibeam bathymetric data, single channel seismic reflection profiles, underway chirp sonar data, ADCP current data and sediment coring, we define the main morphological elements of the area. In particular we define the glacial morphogenesis in relation to the excavation of inner shelf basins and troughs along structural discontinuities and lithologic boundaries. We identify streamlined surfaces that testify to the grounding of ice and past ice flow directions. These glacial forms are found only on glacial tills preserved in the deepest part of the basins, while net erosion to bedrock has occurred elsewhere. Since the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM), the relict glacial morphology has been draped by hemipelagic and diatomaceous mud, and bottom currents have played a major role in focusing sedimentation within small depocentres, that we define as contouritic drifts. Based on shallow sediment architecture and supported by direct measurements, we propose that the direction of bottom water flow is from the outer shelf into the Prince Gustav channel as a result of a combination of tidal currents and ice shelf-related thermohaline circulation.     

Correlation of side-scan backscatter intensity with grain-size distribution of shelf sediments, New Jersey margin

The dependence of acoustic backscatter variations on sediment grain-size distribution is examined using a combined analysis of 95 kHz side-scan data and approx. 300 grab samples from the New Jersey margin. We show that, under well-controlled circumstances, an unprecedented degree of correlation can be obtained between backscatter intensity and mean grain size. However, backscatter is disproportionately affected by larger grain sizes. Addition of just a few extra weight percentage of the larger grain sizes (>4 mm), which in our study is typically represented by more abundant shell hash among the older sediments at greater water depths, can completely degrade this correlation. Received: 29 September 1999 / Revision accepted: 14 February 2000