A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证

以一种新型的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.通过对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟说明,模型能较好地模拟大水深水域和强非线性波的传播.通过设置不同的入射波参数来进行潜堤地形上波浪传播的物理模型实验,并将数值解与物理模型实验结果进行了比较.     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证 引入变换速度变量

以一种新型的含变换速度变量的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟,说明在引入变换速度后进一步增大了模型的水深适用范围.对潜堤地形上波浪传播的数值模拟说明,在引入变换速度后进一步提高了模型的数值模拟精度.     

Generalized boussinesq model for periodic non-linear shallow-water waves

This paper presents the development of a generalized Boussinesq (gB) model for the periodic non-linear shallow-water waves. An incident cnoidal wave solution for the gB model is derived and applied to the wave simulation. A set of radiation boundary conditions is also established to transmit effectively the cnoidal waves out of the computational domain. The classical solutions of the second-order cnoidal waves are discussed within the content of the KdV equation and the generalized Boussinesq equations. An Euler's predictor-corrector finite-difference algorithm is used for numerical computation. The propagation of normally incident cnoidal waves in a channel is studied. The simulated wave profiles agree well with the analytical results. The temporal and spatial evolution of an obliquely incident cnoidal wave is also modelled. The phenomenon of Mach reflection is discussed.     

礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟

本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。     

A temporally second-order accurate Godunov-type scheme for solving the extended Boussinesq equations

A numerical scheme for solving the class of extended Boussinesq equations is presented. Unlike previous schemes, where the governing equations are integrated through time using a fourth-order method, a second-order Godunov-type scheme is used thus saving storage and computational resources. The spatial derivatives are discretised using a combination of finite-volume and finite-difference methods. A fourth-order MUSCL reconstruction technique is used to compute the values at the cell interfaces for use in the local Riemann problems, whilst the bed source and dispersion terms are discretised using centred finite-differences of up to fourth-order accuracy. Numerical results show that the class of extended Boussinesq equations can be accurately solved without the need for a fourth-order time discretisation, thus improving the computational speed of Boussinesq-type numerical models. The numerical scheme has been applied to model a number of standard test cases for the extended Boussinesq equations and comparisons made to physical wave flume experiments.     

特征线计算格式下共轭方程两种导出途径的比较

共轭方程的导出是建立资料同化模型的关键，其导出方式有两种途径：AFD形式与FDA形式。在特征线计算格式基础上针对一类较广泛海洋动力控制方程分析了其两种共轭方程（AFD形式与FDA形式）之间的关系，并将理论结果应用于波谱共轭方程的讨论。     

一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程数值模型

建立了求解一维全非线性Green-Naghdi水波方程的中心有限体积/有限差分混合数值格式。采用结构化网格对守恒形式的控制方程进行离散和积分,界面数值通量采用有限体积法计算,剩余项则采用中心有限差分格式求解。其中,采用中心迎风有限体积格式计算控制体界面数值通量,并结合界面变量的线性重构方法,使其在空间上具有四阶精度,通过引入静压重构技术和波浪破碎指标使模型具备处理海岸水-陆动边界及波浪破碎的能力。时间积分则采用具有总时间变差减小(Total Variation Diminishing,TVD)性质的三阶龙格-库塔法进行。应用该模型对孤立波在常水深和斜坡海岸上的传播过程及规则波跨越潜堤传播的实验进行了数值模型研究,数值计算同解析解及实验数据吻合良好。     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

A Boussinesq model for simulating wave and current interaction

A new formulation of a pair of Boussinesq equations for three-dimensional nonlinear dispersive shallow-water waves is presented. This set of model equations permits spatial and temporal variations of the bottom topography and the presence of uniform currents. The newly derived equations are used to simulate the propagation of cnoidal waves and their interactions with a uniform current in a wave channel. The modified Euler's predictor-corrector algorithm for time advancing and a central difference representation for the space derivatives are applied to the computation of the basic equations. A set of open boundary conditions is developed to effectively transmit the cnoidal waves out of the computational domain. It is found that, as expected, the wave length decreases with an opposing current and increases with a following current. The wave height increases in magnitude with an opposing current and decreases with a following current. The Mach reflection due to oblique cnoidal waves propagating into an open channel with an opposing current is also investigated. Due to the opposing current, the wave patterns are compressed into smaller saddle-like regions in comparison with the Mach reflection without current effect.     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

A Finite Element Solution of Wave Forces on Submerged Horizontal Circular Cylinders

In this paper, a numerical model is established for estimating the wave forces on a submerged horizontal circular cylinder. For predicting the wave motion, a set of two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations is solved numerically with a finite element method. In order to track the moving non-linear wave surface boundary, the Navier-Stokes equations are discretized in a moving mesh system. After each computational time step, the mesh is modified according to the changed wave surface boundary. In order to stabilize the numerical procedure, a three-step finite element method is applied in the time integration. The water sloshing in a tank and wave propagation over a submerged bar are simulated for the first time to validate the present model. The computational results agree well with the analytical solution and the experimental data.Finally, the model is applied to the simulation of interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal circular cylinder.The effects of the KC number and the cylinder depth on the wave forces are studied.     

High resolution downscaled ocean waves (DOW) reanalysis in coastal areas

Large-scale wave reanalysis databases (0.1°–1° spatial resolution) provide valuable information for wave climate research and ocean applications which require long-term time series (> 20 years) of hourly sea state parameters. However, coastal studies need a more detailed spatial resolution (50–500 m) including wave transformation processes in shallow waters. This specific problem, called downscaling, is usually solved applying a dynamical approach by means of numerical wave propagation models requiring a high computational time effort. Besides, the use of atmospheric reanalysis and wave generation and propagation numerical models introduce some uncertainties and errors that must be dealt with. In this work, we present a global framework to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort (about 1000 ×) by using a hybrid methodology which combines numerical models (dynamical downscaling) and mathematical tools (statistical downscaling). The spatial wave variability along the boundaries of the propagation domain and the simultaneous wind fields are taking into account in the numerical propagations to performance similarly to the dynamical downscaling approach. The principal component analysis is applied to the model forcings to reduce the data dimension simplifying the selection of a subset of numerical simulations and the definition of the wave transfer function which incorporates the dependency of the wave spatial variability and the non-uniform wind forcings. The methodology has been tested in a case study on the northern coast of Spain and validated using shallow water buoys, confirming a good reproduction of the hourly time series structure and the different statistical parameters.     

波浪沿斜面传播过程的数值模拟

精确模拟非线性波沿斜面传播过程非常困难,为此论文从势函数的边界积分方程出发,建立了一种时域内二维波浪模拟的数值模型,主要用来模拟完全非线性波浪的传播变形过程。论文的数值模型使用高阶二维边界元方法,采用可调节时间步长的基于二阶显式泰勒展开的混合欧拉-拉格郎日时间步进来求解带自由表面的线性或完全非线性波浪传播问题。在计算区域一端造出线性或非线性的周期性波浪,另一端采用消除反射波的人工粘性吸收边界。通过与现有理论比较证明了论文数值方法所得结果是准确可靠的。     

考虑边界波浪方向的缓坡方程自适应求解模型

缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。     

Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Three Dimensional Waves in Water of Arbitrary Varying Topography

—The numerical simulation is based on the authors＇high-order models with a dissipative termfor nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth.Corresponding finite-difference equations andgeneral conditions for open and fixed natural boundaries with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phaseshift are also given in this paper.The systematical tests of numerical simulation show that the theoreticalmodels,the finite-difference algorithms and the boundary conditions can give good calculation results forthe wave propagating in shallow and deep water with an arbitrary slope varying from gentle to steep.     

A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.     

On the modeling of wave propagation on non-uniform currents and depth

By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown.     

Fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) simulations and wave run-up prediction around 3-D structures

A finite-difference scheme and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm have been developed to investigate the interactions of fully nonlinear waves with two- or three-dimensional structures of arbitrary shape. The Navier–Stokes (NS) and continuity equations are solved in the computational domain and the boundary values are updated at each time step by the finite-difference time-marching scheme in the framework of a rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is implemented by the marker-density function (MDF) technique developed for two fluid layers.To demonstrate the capability and accuracy of the present method, the numerical simulation of backstep flows with free-surface, and the numerical tests of the MDF technique with limit functions are conducted. The 3D program was then applied to nonlinear wave interactions with conical gravity platforms of circular and octagonal cross-sections. The numerical prediction of maximum wave run-up on arctic structures is compared with the prediction of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) method and those of linear and second-order diffraction analyses based on potential theory and boundary element method (BEM). Through this comparison, the effects of non-linearity and viscosity on wave loading and run-up are discussed.     

A higher-order σ-coordinate non-hydrostatic model for nonlinear surface waves

A higher-order non-hydrostatic model in a σ-coordinate system is developed. The model uses an implicit finite difference scheme on a staggered grid to simultaneously solve the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations (NSE) with the free-surface boundary conditions. An integral method is applied to resolve the top-layer non-hydrostatic pressure, allowing for accurately resolving free-surface wave propagation. In contrast to the previous work, a higher-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient due to steep surface waves or rapidly varying topographies. An efficient direct solver is developed to solve the resulting block hepta-diagonal matrix system. Accuracy of the new model is validated by linear and nonlinear standing waves and progressive waves. The model is then used to examine freak (extreme) waves. Features of downshifting focusing location and wave asymmetry characteristics are predicted on the temporal and spatial domains of a freak wave.