Hybrid finite volume – finite difference scheme for 2DH improved Boussinesq equations

In this paper, a hybrid scheme based on a set of 2DH extended Boussinesq equations for slowly varying bathymetries is introduced. The numerical code combines the finite volume technique, applied to solve the advective part of the equations, with the finite difference method, used to discretize dispersive and source terms. Time integration is performed using the fourth-order Adams–Bashforth–Moulton predictor–corrector method; the Riemann problem is solved employing an approximate HLL solver, a fourth-order MUSCL-TVD technique is applied. Five test cases, for non-breaking and breaking waves, are reproduced to verify the model comparing its results to laboratory data or analytical solutions.     

A Compact Explicit Difference Scheme of High Accuracy for Extended Boussinesq Equations

Presented here is a compact explicit difference scheme of high accuracy for solving the extended Boussinesq equations.For time discretization,a three-stage explicit Runge-Kutta method with TVD property is used at predicting stage,a cubic spline function is adopted at correcting stage,which made the time discretization accuracy up to fourth order;For spatial discretization,a three-point explicit compact difference scheme with arbitrary order accuracy is employed.The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Beji and Nadaoka are solved by the proposed scheme.The numerical results agree well with the experimental data.At the same time,the comparisons of the two numerical results between the present scheme and low accuracy difference method are made,which further show the necessity of using high accuracy scheme to solve the extended Boussinesq equations.As a valid sample,the wave propagation on the rectangular step is formulated by the present scheme,the modelled results are in better agreement with the experimental data than those of Kittitanasuan.     

Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.     

An integral contravariant formulation of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations

In this paper we propose an integral form of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations in contravariant formulation, in which Christoffel symbols are avoided, in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. Following the approach proposed by Chen (2006), the motion equations retain the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity. A new Upwind Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory scheme for the solution of the fully non-linear Boussinesq equations on generalised curvilinear coordinate systems is proposed. The equations are rearranged in order to solve them by a high resolution hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The conservative part of the above-mentioned equations, consisting of the convective terms and the terms related to the free surface elevation, is discretised by a high-order shock-capturing finite volume scheme in which an exact Riemann solver is involved; dispersive terms and the term related to the approximation to the second order of the vertical vorticity are discretised by a cell-centred finite difference scheme. The shock-capturing method makes it possible to intrinsically model the wave breaking, therefore no additional terms are needed to take into account the breaking related energy dissipation in the surf zone. The model is verified against several benchmark tests, and the results are compared with experimental, theoretical and alternative numerical solutions.     

An efficient shock capturing algorithm to the extended Boussinesq wave equations

A hybrid finite-volume and finite-difference method is proposed for numerically solving the two-dimensional (2D) extended Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are written in such a way that the convective flux is approximated using finite volume (FV) method while the remaining terms are discretized using finite difference (FD) method. Multi-stage (MUSTA) scheme, instead of commonly used HLL or Roe schemes, is adopted to evaluate the convective flux as it has the simplicity of centred scheme and accuracy of upwind scheme. The third order Runge–Kutta method is used for time marching. Wave breaking and wet–dry interface are also treated in the model. In addition to model validation, the emphasis is given to compare the merits and limitations of using MUSTA scheme and HLL scheme in the model. The analytical and experimental data available in the literature have been used for the assessment. Numerical tests demonstrate that the developed model has the advantages of stability preserving, shock-capturing and numerical efficiency when applied in the complex nearshore region. Compared with that using HLL scheme, the proposed model has comparable numerical accuracy, but requires slightly less computation time and is much simpler to code.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

加强的适合复杂地形的水波方程及其一维数值模型验证

在他人给出的方程的基础上,通过在其动量方程中引入含4个参数的公式,推导出了加强的适合复杂地形的水波方程,新方程的色散、变浅作用以及非线性均比原来适合复杂地形的方程有了改善:色散关系式与斯托克斯线性波的Padé(4,4)阶展开式一致;变浅作用在相对水深(波数乘水深)不大于6时与解析解符合较好;非线性在相对水深不大于1.05时保持在5%的误差之内.基于该方程,在非交错网格下建立的时间差分格式为混合4阶Adams-Bashforth-Moulton的一维数值模型,并在数值计算中利用了五对角宽带解法.数值模拟了潜堤上波浪传播变形,并将数值计算结果与实验结果进行了对比,验证了该数值模型是合理的.     

基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程二维波浪传播数值模型

建立基于四阶完全非线性Boussinesq水波方程的二维波浪传播数值模型。采用Kennedy等提出的涡粘方法模拟波浪破碎。在矩形网格上对控制方程进行离散,采用高精度的数值格式对离散方程进行数值求解。对规则波在具有三维特征地形上的传播过程进行了数值模拟,通过数值模拟结果与实验结果的对比,对所建立的波浪传播模型进行了验证。同时,为了考察非线性对波浪传播的影响,给出和上述模型具有同阶色散性、变浅作用性能但仅具有二阶完全非线性特征的波浪模型的数值结果。通过对比两个模型的数值结果以及实验数据,讨论非线性在波浪传播过程中的作用。研究结果表明,所建立的Boussinesq水波方程在深水范围内不但具有较精确的色散性和变浅作用性能,而且具有四阶完全非线性特征,适合模拟波浪在近岸水域的非线性运动。     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model (FEM) based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation简

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model （FEM） based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

Numerical modeling of Boussinesq equations by finite element method

In this paper, a numerical model based on the improved Boussinesq equations derived by Beji and Nadaoka [Beji, S., Nadaoka, K., 1996. A formal derivation and numerical modeling of the improved Boussinesq equations for varying depth. Ocean Eng. 23 (8), 691–704] is presented. The finite element method is used to discretize the spatial derivatives. Quadrilateral elements with linear interpolating functions are employed for the two horizontal velocity components and the water surface elevation. The time integration is performed using the Adams–Bashforth–Moulton predictor–corrector method. Five test cases for which either theoretical solutions or laboratory results are available are employed to test the proposed scheme. The model is capable of giving satisfactory predictions in all cases.     

一个两时间层分裂显格式海洋环流模式(MASNUM)及其检验

A two-time-level, three-dimensional numerical ocean circulation model（named MASNUM） was established with a two-level, single-step Eulerian forward-backward time-differencing scheme. A mathematical model of large-scale oceanic motions was based on the terrain-following coordinated, Boussinesq, Reynolds-averaged primitive equations of ocean dynamics. A simple but very practical Eulerian forward-backward method was adopted to replace the most preferred leapfrog scheme as the time-differencing method for both barotropic and baroclinic modes. The forward-backward method is of second-order of accuracy, computationally efficient by requiring only one function evaluation per time step, and free of the computational mode inherent in the three-level schemes. This method is superior to the leapfrog scheme in that the maximum time step of stability is twice as large as that of the leapfrog scheme in staggered meshes thus the computational efficiency could be doubled. A spatial smoothing method was introduced to control the nonlinear instability in the numerical integration. An ideal numerical experiment simulating the propagation of the equatorial Rossby soliton was performed to test the amplitude and phase error of this new model. The performance of this circulation model was further verified with a regional（northwest Pacific） and a quasi-global（global ocean simulation with the Arctic Ocean excluded） simulation experiments. These two numerical experiments show fairly good agreement with the observations. The maximum time step of stability in these two experiments were also investigated and compared between this model and that model which adopts the leapfrog scheme.     

高阶Boussinesq类方程数值求解及试验验证

基于二阶非线性与色散的Boussinesq类方程,采用改善的Crank-Nicolson方法对不同情况下淹没潜堤上的波浪传播进行数值模拟。高阶方程与传统、改进型的Boussinesq方程计算结果进行比较,高阶方程的计算结果与实验吻合得更好。表明该高阶Boussinesq方程能够精确预测变水深、强非线性的复杂波况,可用于实际近岸海域波浪问题的计算。     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证

以一种新型的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.通过对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟说明,模型能较好地模拟大水深水域和强非线性波的传播.通过设置不同的入射波参数来进行潜堤地形上波浪传播的物理模型实验,并将数值解与物理模型实验结果进行了比较.     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证 引入变换速度变量

以一种新型的含变换速度变量的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟,说明在引入变换速度后进一步增大了模型的水深适用范围.对潜堤地形上波浪传播的数值模拟说明,在引入变换速度后进一步提高了模型的数值模拟精度.     

用含高色散性Boussinesq方程模拟潜堤上的波浪变形

基于一种高阶Boussiensq方程(刘忠波等,2004),采用预报-校正格式的有限差分法对该方程进行了数值离散,建立了数值模型。针对动量方程中三阶项的差分形式,采用了迎风格式和五点格式。通过数值模拟常水深下不同周期波浪传播变形,指出迎风格式在计算小周期波浪时存在的问题。为进一步验证数值模型的适用性,模拟了淹没潜堤上的传播变形。从数值结果与实验值的对比结果上看,该数值模型能较好地模拟波浪变形,可用于模拟实际中的波浪场问题。     

Energy conservation issues in sigma-coordinate free-surface ocean models

This paper focuses on the energy conservation properties of a hydrostatic, Boussinesq, coastal ocean model using a classic finite difference method. It is shown that the leapfrog time-stepping scheme, combined with the sigma-coordinate formalism and the motions of the free surface, prevents the momentum advection from exactly conserving energy. Because of the leapfrog scheme, the discrete form of the kinetic energy depends on the product of velocities at odd and even time steps and thus appears to be possibly negative when high-frequency modes develop. Besides, the study of the energy balance clarifies the numerical choices made for the computation of mixing processes. The time-splitting technique used to reduce the computation costs associated to the resolution of surface waves leads to the well-known external and internal mode equations. We show that these equations do not conserve energy if the coupling of these two modes is forward in time. Even if non-linear terms are negligible, this shortcoming can be significant regarding the pressure gradient term ‘frozen’ over a baroclinic time step. An alternative energy-conserving time-splitting technique is proposed in this paper. Discussion and conclusions are conducted in the light of a set of numerical experiments dedicated to surface and internal gravity waves.     

适合中等水流的Boussinesq方程

推导了含量阶为O(ε1/2)的瞬变非均匀流的Boussinesq水波方程,讨论了该量阶水流对流场速度和压力分布的影响,采用了Crank-Nicolson格式的预估-校正有限差分法对该方程进行了数值求解.把数值结果与无水流情况的实验结果进行了对比,验证了该方程和数值计算方法的有效性,与经典的Boussinesq方程和含量阶为O(1)的瞬变非均匀流的Boussinesq水波方程的计算结果进行了比较,考察了该方程的适用范围.     

Two sets of higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for water waves

Based on the classical Boussinesq model by Peregrine [Peregrine, D.H., 1967. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27 (4), 815–827], two parameters are introduced to improve dispersion and linear shoaling characteristics. The higher order non-linear terms are added to the modified Boussinesq equations. The non-linearity of the Boussinesq model is analyzed. A parameter related to h/L₀ is used to improve the quadratic transfer function in relatively deep water. Since the dispersion characteristic of the modified Boussinesq equations with two parameters is only equal to the second-order Padé expansion of the linear dispersion relation, further improvement is done by introducing a new velocity vector to replace the depth-averaged one in the modified Boussinesq equations. The dispersion characteristic of the further modified Boussinesq equations is accurate to the fourth-order Padé approximation of the linear dispersion relation. Compared to the modified Boussinesq equations, the accuracy of quadratic transfer functions is improved and the shoaling characteristic of the equations has higher accuracy from shallow water to deep water.