Reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach

The reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach were studied in a small wavetank filled with water and petroleum. The dependence of the reflection coefficient of the internal waves on wave steepness and on beach slope is found to be very similar to that of surface waves. The reflection coefficient is small for the very gentle slope, increases rapidly as the slope increases, and becomes almost constant for the steep slope. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase of the wave steepness. Also, the transition slope at which the coefficient curve has the maximum gradient increases with increase of the wave steepness. Breaking pattern of the internal waves is classified into four types; breaking, semi-breaking, wrinkle-generating, and non-breaking. Their dependence on beach slope and wave steepness is examined. The regular sequence of the four breaking types from breaking to non-breaking is observed with decrease of wave steepness or with increase of beach slope.     

Practical Formulas for Intercoupling of Pressure and Depth in the Black Sea

On the basis of the generalization of the concept of standard ocean to the Black Sea, we deduce practical formulas for the conversion of pressure into depth and vice versa depending on the latitude of the place with regard for the equation of state for 1980. The error of these relations for the standard Black Sea (whose salinity is equal to 22.2 at a temperature of +9°C from the surface to the bottom) does not exceed ±0.2m and ±0.2dbar. The difference between the practical and actual depths in winter and summer periods does not exceed ±0.35m for depths varying within range 0–2000m. The proposed practical formulas enable one to simplify the procedure of rapid evaluation of depth (or pressure) in real time by excluding the procedure of integration over a specific volume.     

Variation of water system distribution in the Sanriku Coastal Area

We analyzed hydrographic data obtained monthly by the Iwate Prefectural Fisheries Laboratory during 1977–1981. Our attention was focussed on the classification of waters based on the Temperature-Salinity (T-S) scatter diagram analyses, and on the extraction of the mean state of their distribution for each season. The water system was defined as all waters occupying some specific region on the T-S plane, and the mean state for each season was expressed by the distribution of the mode water systems (i.e., the most commonly occuring water system).Because of the coexistence of the Tsugaru Warm Current, the Oyashio and the Kuroshio, and their large seasonal variability, the sea waters had a wide variety of T-S combinations. The detailed T-S scatter diagram analyses allowed us to classify the waters into six water systems. A time-longitude diagram of water systems and the distribution of mode water systems are presented. The latter showed clear seasonal variations of the Tsugaru Warm Current and the Oyashio.Though the water system analysis was successfully able to present the distribution of the various waters in the Sanriku Coastal Area and to clearly extract the mean state of sea conditions, it was found that the classification of water systems on the T-S plane was not complete in all cases for this area.     

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Seasonal variability and the types of currents in the upper layer of the Black Sea

Spectral analysis of the climatic circulation in the upper 10 m layer of the Black Sea has been carried out. The current field was calculated from a three-dimensional baroclinic non-linear model. The mode composition of the circulation was derived. It is shown that the surface climatic circulation can be represented as the superposition of a finite number of elementary currents of two types:n- andm-modes. Only 4n-modes are shown to be energy-dominant throughout the year. A relation is established between the different sources of energy supply of currents and the modes which assimilate this energy. Problems concerning the nature of the classical Black Sea currents such as the main Black Sea current (MBSC) and the Knipovich spectacles are discussed. A scenario of the field large-scale experiment is suggested which allows the reconstruction of the amplitudes of the first 10n- and the first 10m-modes from mooring data.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Classification of “siome”, streaks and fronts

Siome, which was firstly defined by Uda (1938); is a line of convergence on the sea surface. There are many kinds of siome in the sea. I propose in this paper that siome should be classified into streak and front. Streak is defined as the convergence within the same water mass and front the convergence between two different water masses. Streaks and fronts are classified into more details on the basis of their mechanisms of generation. The proposed classification will be useful for understanding the dynamics of siome and should help to promote interdisciplinary studies around siome regions.     

Temporal variation of the partial pressure of CO2 in surface seawater of Iyo Nada in the Seto Inland Sea,Japan

The temporal variation of the partial pressure of carbon dioxide in surface seawater of Iyo Nada in the western Seto Inland Sea was measured by infrared absorption of carbon dioxide (CO₂) in air equilibrated with seawater. The variation of from January to late May in 1994 was relatively small (from 270 to 340 atm). on the contrary, the measured in September 1993 ranged from 200 to 450 atm. It seems that the relative high observed in the north and the south of Iyo Nada in September were caused by destruction of a stratification owing to tidal currents at straits between Hiroshima Bay and Iyo Nada and Hayasui Straits, respectively. The low observed in the central Iyo Nada in September was ascribed to a tidal front where high concentrations of chlorophyll-a and a relation between and chlorophyll-a in negative sense were found. Except the observation in the north of Iyo Nada in September, the in the surface seawater of Iyo Nada were lowe than the atmospheric (about 367 atm). The results obtained by this work and Kimotoet al. (1993) lead to the conclusion that Iyo Nada acts as a sink of the atmospheric CO₂ on the average.     

Mean Vertical Distribution of the Dissipation Rate of Turbulent Energy in the Black Sea. Comparison with the Existing Models

We compare the results obtained by using theoretical and semiempirical models developed for the evaluation of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy in a stratified ocean with independent distribution of this quantity established by the authors for the active layer of the Black Sea (50–300 m) by using a one-dimensional model taking into account the balance of heat, salt, and fluid inside the layer. It is shown that, in a layer with gradual variation of the Väisälä–Brunt frequency N as a function of depth, the predominant sink of the energy of motion into dissipation N ² is ensured by the flow of energy through the spectrum of internal waves toward low frequencies and small vertical scales. On the contrary, in layers with abrupt drops of density as a function of depth (layers with jumps of density), an important role is played by the interface-type waves and the dependence of on N transforms into N .     

Video observations of marine gravel transport

In an analysis of video observations of gravel transport in the West Slent, UK, collective and individual characteristics of 458 bursts of bedload have been examined and the transport velocity and distance of 1680 individual particles in a consecutive succession of burst events determined. Infrequent, long duration, high stress events account for 60% of total transport in only 24% of the total time with the mean free path and transport velocity for particles being 0.16 m and 0.22 m/s, respectively. Clear links between intense intermittent turbulence and bedload transport revealed in this study, suggest progress in modelling requires a clearer understanding of near bed flow structure.     

Some remarks on the spectrum of rapid-changing random data in the ocean

Spectral characteristics of rapid-changing random data in the ocean are discussed. Analysis shows that, if records are approximated by saw-toothed random series ₁ and step series ₂, ₁ and ₂ generally have spectral ranges of the –4th power and –2nd power, respectively, with respect to frequency (or wave number).     

Parameterization of the dispersion relation of internal waves using the data of hydrological soundings in the Tropical Atlantic

Dependences have been determined which connect the parameters of the dispersion relation of the lowest mode of internal waves with the integral characteristics of the seasonal thermocline when 10 min30 min, 20 mh150 m, and 0·4 m²/s² Q5·2 m²/s².Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Some characteristics of the development process of the wind-wave spectrum

The development process of wind-waves of which spectral peak distributes from 0.6 cps to 9.3 cps will be discussed on the basis of the wind tunnel experiments and of the field observations performed at Lake Biwa. The characteristics of power and slope spectra are here presented. The development process of these wind-waves is characterized by three stages;i.e. initial-wavelets, transition stage and sea-waves. In the wind tunnel experiments, the transition from the stage of the initial-wavelets to the transition stage occurs when the wave spectral peak arrives at the line 6.40×10^–4 k ^–2cm²·sec (wherek is wave number) or when the slope spectral density at the frequencyf _max becomes larger than 6.40×10^–4 sec. In the stage of sea-waves, the component wave of a wave-spectral peak is steepest in the component waves. And the wave spectral peak develops along the line 1.02×10² f ^–6 cm²·sec (wheref is the frequency corresponding to the wave numberk) untill it reaches the line 33.3f ^–4cm²·sec, and thereafter develops along the latter line, which indicates the constant density of slope spectrum. It is suggested that the nonlinearity of wind-waves must become stronger as wind-waves develop. The effective momentum flux _ws from the air flow to wind-waves in this stage is evaluated to be about 49% of the total stress ₀.     

Abundance and size composition of the summer phytoplankton communities in the western North Pacific Ocean,the Bering Sea,and the Gulf of Alaska

Chlorophylla concentrations (Chla) of size-fractionated phytoplankton samples were measured in the western North Pacific Ocean, the Bering Sea, and the Gulf of Alaska during the summer of 1986. Among samples collected in the upper 100 m (total of 210 samples), 207 samples were dominated by micro- (>10 m) or picoplankton (<2 m) and only three samples were represented by nanoplankton (2–10 m). These 207 samples were classified based on the total Chla content into three types: Type H (>1.0 g l^–1), Type M (0.5–1.0 g l^–1), and Type L (<0.5 g l^–1). These types further divided into two subtypes (-p and-m), depending upon dominancy of pico (-p) and microplankton (-m). The phytoplankton community was represented by Type L-p in the Gulf of Alaska, where 80% of the samples fell into this type. It was represented by Type M-p in the western North Pacific and the Oceanic Domain in the Bering Sea, where 53 and 41% of samples were identified as this type, respectively. In the Middle Domain of the Bering Sea, 68% of samples collected below the nitracline was Type H-m, which indicates blooms of microplanton. This type was also observed in the neritic waters near the Aleutian Islands. These types described above are consistent with a general trend that an increase in phytoplankton abundance is attributed to the growth of microplankton. An unusual type occurred above the nitracline of the Middle Domain, where microplankton prevailed, although the total Chla was less (Type L-m). This type represents a feature of late phase of an ice edge bloom. Another unusual type was found mainly in the Outer Domain of the Bering Sea, where the total Chla was high and picoplankton prevailed (Type H-p). The predominance of picoplankton seems to result from the heavy grazing intensity of large calanoid copepods upon microplankton but not upon picoplankton     

The mechanism of the development of wind-wave spectra

The mechanism of the development of wind-waves will be proposed on the basis of the observed wave spectra in the wind tunnels and at Lake Biwa (Imasato, 1976). It consists of two aspects: One is that the air flow over the wind-waves transfers momentum concentratively to the steepest component waves and the other is that the upper limit of the growth of a wave spectral density is given by the ultimate value in the slope spectral density. The first aspect means that the wave field has the momentum transfer filter on receiving the momentum from the air flow. Wind-waves in the stage of sea-waves receive the necessary amount of momentum by the form drag,e.g. according to the Miles' (1960) inviscid mechanism, through a very narrow frequency region around a dominant spectral peak. On the other hand, wind-waves in the stage of initial-wavelets receive it according to the Miles' (1962a) viscous model through a fairly broad frequency region around the peak. The upper limit ofS _max developing according to viscous mechanism is given byS _max =6.40×10^–4 k _max ^–2cm²s andS _max =2.03C(f _max )^–2cm²s(S _max is the power density of the wave spectral peak with the frequencyf _max ,k _max is the wave number corresponding to the frequencyf _max andC is the phase velocity).From the second aspect, the upper limit of the growth of wave spectral density is given by 33.3f ^–4cm²s in the frequency region of late stage of sea-waves. Therefore, the spectral peak, which has the largest value in the slope spectral density in the component waves of the wave spectrum, rises high over the line 4.15f ^–5cm²s. The energy is transported from the spectral peak to the high frequency part and to the forward face of a wave spectrum by nonlinear wave-wave interaction. This nonlinearity is confirmed by the bispectra calculated from the observed wind-wave data. In the stage of sea-waves, nonlinear rearrangement of the wave energy comes from a narrow momentum transfer filter, and, in the stage of initial-wavelets, it comes mainly from small corrugations and small steepness of the wave field.     

Vertical distribution of smaller macrobenthos and larger meiobenthos in the sediment profile in the deep-sea system of Suruga Bay (central Japan)

The vertical distribution of benthic organisms in the sediment profile was studied using horizontally sliced sediments collected at five stations at depths from 115 to 472 m in Suruga Bay, central Japan. Using sieves of 1.0 and 0.5 mm mesh, benthic organisms were divided into two size classes, smaller macrobenthos (>1mm, <1g wet weight) and larger meiobenthos (1.0 mm0.5 mm). The maximum depth of vertical distribution of organisms in the sediment profile was expressed by the 95 % intercept of the cumulative % curve of the number of individuals drawn with respect to depth in the sediment. It has long been supposed that benthic animals are concentrated in the surface centimeters of sediment in the deep-sea system, and the present study clearly substantiated this. Most benthic organisms of both of these two size classes were concentrated in the upper 5 cm of sediment. The vertical distribution was almost always deeper in the case of smaller macrobenthos than for larger meiobenthos. However the difference could not be substantiated statistically since the number of samples was insufficient. The maximum depth indices of polychaetes were found to be significantly larger than those of crustaceans in the case of macrobenthos, while in the case of meiobenthos, the difference was not significant. The maximum depth index of all benthic organisms was positively and significantly correlated with water-depth and the possible cause for this relationship is discussed.     

Kinetics of nitrate and ammonium uptake by the natural populations of marine phytoplankton in the surface water of the Oyashio region during spring and summer

The maximum uptake rate (_max) and affinity constant (K _s) for nitrate and ammonium were estimated in the surface water of offshore Oyashio in May (spring) and September (summer), 1990. The average _max/Chl.a for ammonium was 2.1 times larger than that of nitrate in both seasons. The average _max/Chl.a for both nitrogens were 3.5 times larger in summer than in spring. Water temperature and size composition of phytoplankton population were related to the seasonal difference in the _max/Chl.a. Phytoplankton population showed high affinity for both nitrogens in the spring and summer. In addition, the contribution of new production to total production was estimated by _max[_max–No₃/(_max–NO₃+_max–NH₄)]. The spring value was in the range of 0.26 to 0.45 (mean±SD=0.35±0.092), and the values in spring bloom were especially a little over 0.4. The summer value was in the range of 0.30 to 0.37 (0.34±0.04).     

Organic geochemistry of the Japan Sea sediments-1: Bulk organic matter and hydrocarbon analyses of Core KH-79-3, C-3 from the Oki Ridge for paleoenvironment assessments

Organic geochemical study of bulk organic matter (OM), hopanoid hydrocarbon and normal hydrocarbon (C₂₃C₃₅) was conducted for a 936-cm-long sediment core sample from the Oki Ridge of the Japan Sea (Core KH-79-3, C-3; 37°03.5 N, 134°42.6E, water depth 935 m). Stable carbon isotopic ratios were also measured for both bulk OM and individual hydrocarbons. The following results were obtained: (1) The weight ratios of total organic carbon to total nitrogen range from 6.2 to 9.4 in the core. The ¹³C values of bulk OM range from –25.1–20.7%.. The ¹³C values of OM in the sections of 140190 cm are lower (–25–24) than those in the other sections (–23–21). This result indicates that OM in the core except for the 140190 cm sections is essentially of marine origin. (2) The ¹³C value of diploptene (a hopanoid hydrocarbon) in the last glacial maximum (LGM), is –66.3 (vs. PDB), which indicates it originating in methanotrophic bacteria. This result provides evidence to support for the previous ideas (Oba et al., 1980, 1984; Masuzawa and Kitano, 1984) that the bottom waters in the Japan Sea were anoxic in LGM. (3) Long chain (C₂₃C₃₅) n-alkanes of higher-plant wax origin were found throughout the core. Their concentration is high in 140190 cm in depth, suggesting that eolian dust load was high in LGM. (4) The n-alkane/TOC ratio increases with decreasing ¹³C values of bulk OM. This result indicates that the load of terrestrial (probably eolian dust-derived) OM to the Japan Sea became higher in colder climates. (5) The CPI values of long-chain n-alkanes are different in different ¹³O stages of paleoclimate, probably reflecting variations in species of terrestrial higher plants as a result of climatological adaptations.     

Bispectra of wind-waves and wave-wave interaction

Bispectra of wind-waves in wind tunnels were calculated in order to understand the characteristics of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction in actual wind-wave field. It is shown that the nonlinearity in wind-waves increases in magnitude with the development of wind-waves and that the characteristics of nonlinearity in wind-waves in the early stage of development differ from those in the late stage. It is shown that the bispectra are classified into five types (IV), and that the bispectral type changes from the type I to the type V as the wind-waves develop from the stage of the initial-wavelets to that of the sea-waves. The relations between frequencies of the component waves interacting each other are discussed in each bispectral type.     

Sediment Transport along the Southeast Mediterranean: A geological perspective

Sediment is being transported from the Nile Delta to the Israeli coast by a wave-induced longshore current carrying mainly sand, and by the geostrophic Mediterranean Current, detected in Earth Resources and Technology Satellite (ERTS) photographs through the presence of suspended sediments. The location of these suspended sediments is consistent with computations of the maximum depth of wave stirring on the shelf. Since the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1965, sand has been more than adequately supplied by the severe erosion of the Nile Delta beaches. No changes in the longshore transport of sediment along the Israeli coast are anticipated from the Aswan Dam for a few hundred years.In memory of O. H. Oren, a pioneer in the study of the Nile flood along the Israeli coast.     

Evolution of an isolated eddy near a coast and its relevance to the “Kyucho”

The evolution of an isolated meso-scale eddy near a coast is studied numerically. In particular, it is found that the translation speed of the adjusted eddy is estimated well by the mutual induction mechanism adapted to a rotating stratified fluid. The nonlinear Kelvin wave excited during the adjustment process is also discussed in connection with the Kyucho, the sudden warming of coastal waters associated with swift currents.