Some characteristics of the development process of the wind-wave spectrum

The development process of wind-waves of which spectral peak distributes from 0.6 cps to 9.3 cps will be discussed on the basis of the wind tunnel experiments and of the field observations performed at Lake Biwa. The characteristics of power and slope spectra are here presented. The development process of these wind-waves is characterized by three stages;i.e. initial-wavelets, transition stage and sea-waves. In the wind tunnel experiments, the transition from the stage of the initial-wavelets to the transition stage occurs when the wave spectral peak arrives at the line 6.40×10^–4 k ^–2cm²·sec (wherek is wave number) or when the slope spectral density at the frequencyf _max becomes larger than 6.40×10^–4 sec. In the stage of sea-waves, the component wave of a wave-spectral peak is steepest in the component waves. And the wave spectral peak develops along the line 1.02×10² f ^–6 cm²·sec (wheref is the frequency corresponding to the wave numberk) untill it reaches the line 33.3f ^–4cm²·sec, and thereafter develops along the latter line, which indicates the constant density of slope spectrum. It is suggested that the nonlinearity of wind-waves must become stronger as wind-waves develop. The effective momentum flux _ws from the air flow to wind-waves in this stage is evaluated to be about 49% of the total stress ₀.     

Kinetics of nitrate and ammonium uptake by the natural populations of marine phytoplankton in the surface water of the Oyashio region during spring and summer

The maximum uptake rate (_max) and affinity constant (K _s) for nitrate and ammonium were estimated in the surface water of offshore Oyashio in May (spring) and September (summer), 1990. The average _max/Chl.a for ammonium was 2.1 times larger than that of nitrate in both seasons. The average _max/Chl.a for both nitrogens were 3.5 times larger in summer than in spring. Water temperature and size composition of phytoplankton population were related to the seasonal difference in the _max/Chl.a. Phytoplankton population showed high affinity for both nitrogens in the spring and summer. In addition, the contribution of new production to total production was estimated by _max[_max–No₃/(_max–NO₃+_max–NH₄)]. The spring value was in the range of 0.26 to 0.45 (mean±SD=0.35±0.092), and the values in spring bloom were especially a little over 0.4. The summer value was in the range of 0.30 to 0.37 (0.34±0.04).     

Organic geochemistry of the Japan Sea sediments-1: Bulk organic matter and hydrocarbon analyses of Core KH-79-3, C-3 from the Oki Ridge for paleoenvironment assessments

Organic geochemical study of bulk organic matter (OM), hopanoid hydrocarbon and normal hydrocarbon (C₂₃C₃₅) was conducted for a 936-cm-long sediment core sample from the Oki Ridge of the Japan Sea (Core KH-79-3, C-3; 37°03.5 N, 134°42.6E, water depth 935 m). Stable carbon isotopic ratios were also measured for both bulk OM and individual hydrocarbons. The following results were obtained: (1) The weight ratios of total organic carbon to total nitrogen range from 6.2 to 9.4 in the core. The ¹³C values of bulk OM range from –25.1–20.7%.. The ¹³C values of OM in the sections of 140190 cm are lower (–25–24) than those in the other sections (–23–21). This result indicates that OM in the core except for the 140190 cm sections is essentially of marine origin. (2) The ¹³C value of diploptene (a hopanoid hydrocarbon) in the last glacial maximum (LGM), is –66.3 (vs. PDB), which indicates it originating in methanotrophic bacteria. This result provides evidence to support for the previous ideas (Oba et al., 1980, 1984; Masuzawa and Kitano, 1984) that the bottom waters in the Japan Sea were anoxic in LGM. (3) Long chain (C₂₃C₃₅) n-alkanes of higher-plant wax origin were found throughout the core. Their concentration is high in 140190 cm in depth, suggesting that eolian dust load was high in LGM. (4) The n-alkane/TOC ratio increases with decreasing ¹³C values of bulk OM. This result indicates that the load of terrestrial (probably eolian dust-derived) OM to the Japan Sea became higher in colder climates. (5) The CPI values of long-chain n-alkanes are different in different ¹³O stages of paleoclimate, probably reflecting variations in species of terrestrial higher plants as a result of climatological adaptations.     

Field data support of three-seconds power law andgu *σ−4-spectral form for growing wind waves

Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH ^*=BT ^*3/2 and=2BT ^*–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH ^*(gH/u _* ²) andT ^*(gT/u _*) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u _* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= _sgu_*^–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of _s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of _s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of _s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.     

Parameterization of the dispersion relation of internal waves using the data of hydrological soundings in the Tropical Atlantic

Dependences have been determined which connect the parameters of the dispersion relation of the lowest mode of internal waves with the integral characteristics of the seasonal thermocline when 10 min30 min, 20 mh150 m, and 0·4 m²/s² Q5·2 m²/s².Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes

A combination of the three-second power law, presented in part I for wind waves of simple spectrum, and the similarity of the spectral form of wind waves, leads to a new concept on the energy spectrum of wind waves. It is well substantiated by data from a wind-wave tunnel experiment.In the gravity wave range, the gross form of the high frequency side of the spectrum is proportional tog u _* ^–4, whereg represents the acceleration of gravity,u _* the friction velocity, the angular frequency, and the factor of proportionality is 2.0×l0^–2. The wind waves grow in such a way that the spectrum slides up, keeping its similar form, along the line of the gross form, on the logarithmic diagram of the spectral density,, versus. Also, the terminal value of, at the peak frequency of the fully developed sea, is along a line of the gradient ofg ^{2 –5}.The fine structure of the spectrum from the wind-wave tunnel experiment shows a characteristic form oscillating around the ^–4-line. The excess of the energy density concentrates around the peak frequency and the second- and the third-order harmonics, and the deficit occurs in the middle of these frequencies. This form of the fine structure is always similar in the gravity wave range, in purely controlled conditions such as in a wind-wave tunnel. Moving averages of these spectra tend very close to the form proportional to ^–5.As the wave number becomes large, the effect of surface tension is incorporated, and the ^–4-line in the gravity wave range gradually continues to a ^–8/3-line in the capillary wave range, in accordance with the wind-wave tunnel data. Likewise, the ^–5-line gradually continues to a ^–7/3-line.Also, through a discussion on these results, is suggested the existence of a kind of general similarity in the structure of wind wave field.     

Transmission and reflection of planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean

Transmission and reflection problems when kissing≓ occurs among planetary and topographic Rossby waves in a two-layer ocean are studied. The slope parameterS(=dh ₂/dx, whereh ₂is the thickness of the lower layer) is assumed to have constant values in the regionsx 0 andxL and to vary linearly with the increase ofx in the region0xL (refer to Fig. 2 in the text). Furthermore, a wave is entered fromx=– and kissing is assumed to occur in the region (0<)x _axx_b(<L).It is found that a wave of the same type as the incident wave is mainly transmitted when the width of the region in which kissing occurs,L _kiss(=tx _b–x_a), is smaller than _kiss=2/(¦K¦+ _y/2), whereK is a representative wavenumber in the regionx _ab, _y is they-component of , and is the frequency. WhenL _kiss is larger than _kiss, on the other hand, the main wave transmitted is of a different type to the incident wave. As an application, transmission and reflection problems of planetary Rossby waves are considered, and it is shown that when an external (internal) planetary Rossby wave is entered, an internal (external) one can be transmitted due to the effect of kissing.     

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Study on the chemical forms of radionuclides in seawater-III complexes of60Co with amino acids

Stability constants were determined for⁶⁰Co (II)-amino acid complexes in sodium perchlorate media at an ionic strength=0.67, using cation exchange resins. Stability constants were, for Co(II)-phenylalanine, log ₁=4.4, log ₂=8.2, log ₃=11.7, for Co(II)-histidine, log ₁=7.4. for Co(II)-valine, log ₁=4.3, log ₂=8.5, for Co(II)-proline, log ₁=4.1, and for Co(II)-tyrosine, log ₁=7.2, respectively. The abundance of Co(II)-amino acid complexes in seawater was calculated from these stability constants on the basis of chemical equilibrium, assuming the concentration of individual amino acid to be 10^–7 to 10^–8 mol l^–1. It was inferred that the Co(II)-amino acid complexes are probably not formed abundantly in seawater while inorganic species of⁶⁰Co(II) may still be dominant for a short period of time after discharge into seawater as liquid waste.     

Some remarks on the spectrum of rapid-changing random data in the ocean

Spectral characteristics of rapid-changing random data in the ocean are discussed. Analysis shows that, if records are approximated by saw-toothed random series ₁ and step series ₂, ₁ and ₂ generally have spectral ranges of the –4th power and –2nd power, respectively, with respect to frequency (or wave number).     

Thermolability of dehydrogenases from a psychrophilic marine bacterium

The heat lability of succinic dehydrogenase, malic dehydrogenase and lactate dehydrogenase in cell-free extracts ofVibrio marinus MP-1 grown at 15C was compared for the tris buffer suspended enzymes and the NaCl suspended enzymes. The tris buffer suspended enzymes lost 50 percent activity at low thermal exposure between 5C and 27C. No activity was evident on thermal exposure between 32C and 39C. The enzyme extracts suspended in NaCl at 36 % were more heat stable, losing 50 percent activity after exposure between 16C and 40C. The enzymes lost all activity on thermal exposure between 33C and 42C in the presence of NaCl.     

Reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach

The reflection and breaking of internal waves on a sloping beach were studied in a small wavetank filled with water and petroleum. The dependence of the reflection coefficient of the internal waves on wave steepness and on beach slope is found to be very similar to that of surface waves. The reflection coefficient is small for the very gentle slope, increases rapidly as the slope increases, and becomes almost constant for the steep slope. The reflection coefficient decreases with increase of the wave steepness. Also, the transition slope at which the coefficient curve has the maximum gradient increases with increase of the wave steepness. Breaking pattern of the internal waves is classified into four types; breaking, semi-breaking, wrinkle-generating, and non-breaking. Their dependence on beach slope and wave steepness is examined. The regular sequence of the four breaking types from breaking to non-breaking is observed with decrease of wave steepness or with increase of beach slope.     

Mean Vertical Distribution of the Dissipation Rate of Turbulent Energy in the Black Sea. Comparison with the Existing Models

We compare the results obtained by using theoretical and semiempirical models developed for the evaluation of the dissipation rate of turbulent energy in a stratified ocean with independent distribution of this quantity established by the authors for the active layer of the Black Sea (50–300 m) by using a one-dimensional model taking into account the balance of heat, salt, and fluid inside the layer. It is shown that, in a layer with gradual variation of the Väisälä–Brunt frequency N as a function of depth, the predominant sink of the energy of motion into dissipation N ² is ensured by the flow of energy through the spectrum of internal waves toward low frequencies and small vertical scales. On the contrary, in layers with abrupt drops of density as a function of depth (layers with jumps of density), an important role is played by the interface-type waves and the dependence of on N transforms into N .     

On the relation between the growth rate of water waves and wind speed

Various wind velocitiesu _*,U _/2,U andU ₁₀ are correlated to the measured growth rate of water waves , whereu _* is the friction velocity of the wind, andU _/2,U andU ₁₀ are the wind speeds respectively at the heights /2, and 10m above sea surface (: wave length). It is shown that within a range of the dimensionless wind speed, 0.1<u _* /C<0.6, there are no appreciable differences in the correlations, whereC is the phase velocity of water waves. The present relation between andU shows qualitatively similar properties as the one obtained by Al'Zanaidi and Hui (1984); the growth rate for waves with rough surface is larger than that with smooth surface. However, our present relations give, for the both waves with different surface roughness, larger values by factors 1.71.8 than those given by Al'Zanaidi and Hui's relation.     

On the wave dependence of sea-surface wind stress

Analysis is made of wind and wave data, which were obtained during the passage of Typhoon 8013 at an Ocean Data Buoy Station south of Honshu operated by the Japan Meteorological Agency, in order to investigate the wave dependence of sea-surface roughness parameter in the situation where wind waves are dominant with less significant swells. The data fit better the wave-dependent expression of the wind stress,z _{0 p}/u*=, than to Charnock's formula,gz ₀/u*²=, wherez ₀ is the roughness length, _p the angular frequency of the spectral peak of wind waves,u* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, and are non-dimensional constants. The results are very similar to those of our previous study using data from an oil producing platform in the Bass Strait, Australia, although the type of observation system and the synoptic situation of the winds and wind waves were totally different.     

Intrusive Stratification of the Gulf-Stream Frontal Zone According to the Results of Investigations Performed during Cruise 43 of the R/V Akademik Vernadskii

We analyze the data of investigation of the intrusive structure of the Gulf-Stream frontal zone obtained in making frequent drift sections with the help of an MGI-8102 probing complex, study the regularities of variation of temperature, salinity, and density along separate intrusions, and present a series of results connected with the specific features of initiation and development of intrusions and the types of exchange processes determining their transformations. It is shown that the T-diagrams of all intrusions are well separated into segments with different slopes. Moreover, by comparing the slopes and locations of these segments with each other and with the T-diagrams of the Gulf Stream and slope waters, we can fairly reliably attribute the corresponding segments of intrusions to one of the following four types: initial dynamic folds of the frontal zone, layers of domestic water separating the intrusive segments of foreign water from each other, intrusive segments characterized by the penetration of ambient water, and segments not intrusive initially but getting the required slope as a result of interaction with upper and lower intrusive segments. For segments of the last two types, it is possible to specify the predominant type of exchange.     

Dissolved carbon and 33-133-133-1anomalies in the water column caused by hydrocarbon seeps on the northwestern Gulf of Mexico slope

Alkalinity, dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC), and ¹³C profiles from seep sites on the northwestern Gulf of Mexico upper slope show anomalously negative ¹³C values of up to –4.5 PDB, increased levels of DIC of up to 2.45 mmole/liter, and slight alkalinity rises of up to 2.54 meq/liter, relative to water column profiles from a seep-free site (0.63, 2.04 mmole/liter, and 2.39 meq/liter). The observed DIC enrichments coupled with the¹³C-depletions are attributed to the release of CO₂ by microbial oxidation of crude oil in the seep environment, and its migration into the water column. The ¹³C composition of the migrating CO₂ is estimated to be –26.0 on the basis of dissolved carbon inventory. Manifestation of DIC and ¹³C anomalies in the water column caused by hydrocarbon seepage holds promise to be useful for hydrocarbon reconnaissance surveys over large offshore tracts on account of the simplicity of sampling acquisition, and rapidity of analytical techniques in the laboratory.     

Petrography and stable isotope aspects of cold-vent activity imprinted on Miocene-age “calcari aLucina” from Tuscan and Romagna Apennines,Italy

Over 20 occurrences of discontinuous limestone blocks, locally called calcari aLucina, were mapped in the Tuscan—Romagna region of the northern Italian Apennines. The limestones, consisting of a variable mixture of authigenic carbonates (calcite, dolomite, and aragonite), sulfides (primarily pyrite), and allogenic silicates, occur in association with turbidite and hemipelagite units that were deposited in foredeep basins during early to late Miocene times. The limestone blocks are interpreted to represent relicts of carbonate buildups formed around methane-rich fluid vents on the basis of their (1) striking petrographic similarities to carbonates from cold vents in the modern oceans; (2) unique chemosynthetic-like fauna, and (3) anomalously negative ¹³C values ( ¹³C = – 16 to – 58 PDB). The contemporaneous tectonism of the Apennine orogeny is likely to be the primary cause for the expulsion of the methane-rich fluids to the seabed in a manner analogous to the fluid-flow processes occurring at modern accretionary prisms.     

Practical Formulas for Intercoupling of Pressure and Depth in the Black Sea

On the basis of the generalization of the concept of standard ocean to the Black Sea, we deduce practical formulas for the conversion of pressure into depth and vice versa depending on the latitude of the place with regard for the equation of state for 1980. The error of these relations for the standard Black Sea (whose salinity is equal to 22.2 at a temperature of +9°C from the surface to the bottom) does not exceed ±0.2m and ±0.2dbar. The difference between the practical and actual depths in winter and summer periods does not exceed ±0.35m for depths varying within range 0–2000m. The proposed practical formulas enable one to simplify the procedure of rapid evaluation of depth (or pressure) in real time by excluding the procedure of integration over a specific volume.     

Geophysical and geochemical observations on actively seeping hydrocarbon gases on the south-eastern Yellow Sea continental shelf

In the southeastern Yellow Sea, active seepage of hydrocarbon gases has been observed by high-resolution (3.5 kHz) seismic profiling both in 1987 and 2001, occurring through a large number of plumes from the topmost pre-Holocene sedimentary layer. It is strong enough to compensate for current speed, extending vertically up to the sea surface. The gas seepage often appears to be explosive to form craters and diapirs, although pockmarks are rare due to the redistribution of mobile palimpsest sands. In core-top seawater and sediments, the gases are characterized by high amounts of C₂, homogenous ¹³C₁ values and a large difference (19.7 on average) between ¹³C₁ (–55.2 to –53.6 PDB) and ¹³C₂ (–36.8 to –32.5 PDB) values. The gases are considered to be generated with a smaller amount of C₁ at the early thermal cracking stage of labile source materials, after which the C₂ gas is enriched in ¹³C by diffusion or biological alternation at the generation or accumulation site. The homogenous ¹³C₁ values may be one of the geochemical characteristics of gases acquired at depth which are less altered in the case of rapid diffusive gas migration to the seafloor.