Field data support of three-seconds power law andgu *σ−4-spectral form for growing wind waves

Observational data on air-sea boundary processes at the Shirahama Oceanographic Tower Station, Kyoto University, obtained in November, 1969, was analyzed and presented as an example representing the structure of growing wind-wave field. The condition was an ideal onshore wind, and the data contained continuous records of the wind speed at four heights, the wind direction, the air and water temperatures, the tides, and the growing wind waves, for more than six hours. The main results are as follows. Firstly, in both of the wind speed and the sea surface wind stress, rather conspicuous variations of about six-minute period were appreciable. Secondly, the three-seconds power law and its lemma expressed byH ^*=BT ^*3/2 and=2BT ^*–1/2, respectively, are very well supported by the data, whereH ^*(gH/u _* ²) andT ^*(gT/u _*) are the dimensionless significant wave height and period, respectively, the wave steepness,u _* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, andB=0.062 is a universal constant. Thirdly, the spectral form for the high-frequency side of the spectral maximum is well expressed by the form of()= _sgu_*^–4, where is the angular frequency and() the spectral density. The value of _s is determined as 0.062±0.010 from the observational data. There is a conspicuous discrepancy between the spectral shape of wind waves obtained in wind-wave tunnels and those in the sea, the former containing well-defined higher harmonics of the spectral peak, and consequently there is an apparent difference in the values of _s also. However, it is shown that the discrepancy of _s may be eliminated by evaluating properly the energy level of the spectral form containing higher harmonics.     

Analysis of photographic images of the structure of the surface of the sea near a speck of light

Values of root mean square slope ₀ and its variations -₀ are estimated using the brightness field of an image of the surface of the sea near a speck of light. When ₀ and -₀ are defined it is highly important to take into account direct as well as dissipated solar radiation.The space-time analysis of the structure of the image brightness field is performed. This gives an opportunity to estimate dispersion relationship and the running effect of a brightness contrast packet. Comparison of the parameters obtained with the theoretical dispersion ratio of internal waves (IW) allows one to make a conclusion that IW surface manifestations are recorded in a frame.UDK 551.463.5     

Horizontal Pressure Gradient Errors of the Monterey Bay Sigma Coordinate Ocean Model with Various Grids

A coastal ocean -coordinate model of Monterey Bay (MOB) with realistic bottom topography and coastlines is developed using the Princeton Ocean Model (POM) and grid generation technique (GGT) to study the horizontal pressure gradient errors associated with the MOB steep topography. The submarine canyon in MOB features some of the steepest topography encountered anywhere in the world oceans. The MOB grids are designed using the EAGEAL View and GENIE⁺⁺ grid generation systems. A grid package developed by Ly and Luong (1993) is used in this study to couple grids to the model. The MOB model is tested with both orthogonal and curvilinear nearly-orthogonal (CNO) grids. The CNO grid has horizontal resolution which varies from 300 m to 2 km, while the resolution of the orthogonal grid is uniform with x = 1.25 km and y = 1.38 km. These grids cover a domain of 180 × 160 km with the same number of grid points of 131 × 131. Vertical resolutions of 25, 35 and 45 vertical sigma levels are tested. The error in the MOB are evaluated in terms of mean kinetic energy and velocity against various grids, vertical, horizontal resolution and distributions, and bottom topography smoothing. Simulations with various grids show that GGT can be used as another tool in reducing -coordinate errors in coastal ocean modeling besides increasing resolution and smoothing bottom topography. Topographical smoothing not only reduces topographic slope, but changes realistic topography. A CNO grid with a high grid density packed along steep slopes and Monterey Submarine Canyon reduces the errors by 40% compared to a rectangular grid with the same number of grid points. The CNO grid is more efficient than the rectangular grid, since it has most of its grids over water. The simulations show that the presented MOB -coordinate model can be used with a confidence regarding horizontal pressure gradient error.     

Validation of wind speeds and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX altimeter around Japan

The wind speeds and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX altimeter during the first 30 repeat cycles (for about 10 months) are validated by comparing with the data obtained at Japanese Ocean Data Buoy stations. The values of Kuband ⁰ observed by the altimeter show good agreement with those estimated from the buoy wind speed using the modified Chelton-Wentz algorithm. The wind speeds derived from the Ku-band ⁰ using the algorithm agree well with the buoy data with an rms difference of 1.99 ms^–1. The significant wave heights observed by the altimeter have a systematic bias of 0.3 m.     

A new expression for the production rate of sea water droplets on the sea surface

A new set of empirical formulas for the production rate and the number concentration of sea-water droplets on the sea surface are proposed, synthesizing past observation data of sea-salt particles in the sea and water droplets in wind-wave tanks. A new levelz _c is introduced as the effective wind-sea surface where seawater droplets are produced. The new formulas are expressed in linear functions in logarithmic scales ofu*²/v _p , a parameter to describe overall conditions of airsea boundary processes, whereu _* is the friction velocity of air,v the kinematic viscosity of air and _p the peak angular frequency of wind-wave part of wave spectra. A model of coexistence of spray droplets and suspended particles near the sea surface is proposed. As for the independent parameter, a comparison between the uses ofu*²/v _p and ofu _* ³ which was the traditional way of parameterization excluding wave measure, shows that the advantage of usingu*²/v _p is statistically significant with a confidence limit 89% in F-test.     

Dilution of North Pacific Intermediate Water studied with chlorofluorocarbons

Assessment was made of residual ratio of North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW) produced in subpolar region of the North Pacific using chlorofluorocarbons, CFC-11 and CFC-12 (CCl₃F and CCl₂F₂), along 175°E. NPIW on density horizons less than 26.80 remained more than 80% north of 30°N. It was suggested that new NPIW laterally spreads over the northern North Pacific without hardly being diluted by the surroundings. For density horizons greater than 26.80 north of 30°N, NPIW remained less than 60%. The difference in the residual ratio between <26.80 and >26.80 north of 30°N suggests that NPIW is produced on density horizons less than 26.80, which contacts the atmosphere in the subpolar region, and that NPIW is diluted by upwelling deep water on density horizons greater than 26.80 in high latitude of the North Pacific. NPIW on a density horizon of 26.80 remained about 50% south of 30°N. The decrease in the horizontal distribution of the residual ratio of NPIW suggests that half the new NPIW produced in the subpolar region is laterally spread over the North Pacific with the southward movement of NPIW.     

A Preliminary Study of Oceanic Bomb Radiocarbon Inventory in the North Pacific during the Last Two Decades

Radiocarbon and total carbonate data were obtained near the 1973 GEOSECS stations in the North Pacific along 30°N and along 175°E between 1993 and 1994. In these stations, we estimated radiocarbon originating from atomic bomb tests using tritium, trichlorofluoromethane and silicate contents. The average penetration depth of bomb radiocarbon during the two decades has deepened from 900 m to 1300 m. Bomb radiocarbon inventories above the average value for the whole North Pacific were found widely in the western subtropical region around 30°N both in the 1970s and 1990s, and its area in the 1990s was broader than that in the 1970s. In most of the North Pacific, while the bomb radiocarbon has decreased above 25.4, the bomb radiocarbon flux below 25.4 was over 1 × 10¹² atom m^-2yr^-1 in the subtropical region around 30°N. In the tropical area south of 20°N, the bomb radiocarbon inventory below 25.4 increased from zero to over 10 × 10¹² atom m^-2 during the last three decades. These distributions suggest that the bomb radiocarbon removed from the surface is currently accumulated with bomb ¹⁴C flux of over 1 × 10¹² atom m^-2yr^-1 below 25.4 in the subtropical region, mainly by advection from the higher latitude, and that part of the accumulated bomb ¹⁴C gradually spread southward with about 30 years.     

Chlorofluorocarbons in the western North Pacific in 1993 and formation of North Pacific intermediate water

Chlorofluorocarbons (CFC-11 and CFC-12) in the intermediate water having between 26.4 and 27.2 were determined at 75 stations in the western North Pacific north of 20°N and west of 175.5°E in 1993. The intermediate water of 26.4–26.6 was almost saturated with respect to the present atmospheric CFC-11 in the zone between 35 and 45°N around the subarctic front. Furthermore, the ratios of CFC-11/CFC-12 of the water were also of those formed after 1975. These suggest that the upper intermediate water (26.4–26.6) was recently formed by cooling and sinking of the surface water not by mixing with old waters. The water below the isopycnal surface of 26.8 contained less CFCs and the area containing higher CFCs around the subarctic front was greatly reduced. However, the CFC age of the lower intermediate water (26.8–27.2) in the zone around the subarctic front was not old, suggesting that the water was formed by diapycnal mixing of the water ventilated with the atmosphere with old waters not containing appreciable CFCs, probably the Pacific Deep Water. The southward spreading rate decreased with depth and it was one sixth of its eastward spreading rate of the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW).     

Radiation balance and heat budget at the ocean/atmosphere interface in the western North Pacific

The downward short- and long-wave radiation fluxes at the sea surface (S, L) were measured aboard the R/VHakuho Maru, University of Tokyo, for the period of 117 days on six cruises from 1981 to 1985 in the western North Pacific near Japan. The upward fluxes of short- and long-wave radiation (S, L) were calculated by Payne's (1972) table and the Stefan-Boltzmann's law, respectively. The sensible and laten heat fluxes (Q _h ,Q _e ) were also estimated from an aerodynamic bulk method.From April to August, the daily mean value ofS varied with the amplitude of 100200 Wm^–2. The value ofS was estimated approximately 6% ofS in all seasons. The difference betweenL andL was so small that the net radiation flux (Q _n ) was dominated byS. In addition, the net heat flux at the sea surface was also dominated byS due to small values ofQ _h andQ _e , and then the ocean was warmed at the rate of 111 Wm^–2 in April and 63 Wm^–2 in August in the Oyashio Area, and 132 Wm^–2 in May and 164 Wm^–2 in June in the Kuroshio Area, respectively.From September to March, a remarkable negative correlation between the day to day variation ofS and that ofL was observed except when an intense cold air outbreak occurred. It was found that the correlation was caused by the cloud climatological feature of the western North Pacific in this period.S was not a dominant factor in the net heat flux. The value ofQ _h +Q _e in the Kuroshio Area ranged from 260 Wm^–2 to 630 Wm^–2, much larger thanQ _n which ranged from –8 Wm^–2 to 92 Wm^–2 in the leg mean values (each leg period was about 10 days). Then the ocean was cooled at the rate of –160–620 Wm^–2 during this period. The net heat flux in the Kuroshio Area averaged over five legs from late November to February was –473 Wm^–2. This value is 50100% larger than the climatological values reported so far.The temporal and spatial variability of radiation fluxes and heat fluxes during each leg was also discussed.     

Tritium in the northwestern North Pacific

Vertical profiles of tritium in seawater were determined for samples collected during the period from 1988 to 1990 at fourteen stations in the northwestern North Pacific (the Oyashio region) including the Okhotsk Sea and the Bering Sea. The profiles usually had a maximum in the surface layer and decreased gradually with depth down to 1,000 m. The water column inventory of tritium averaged 63% of the total atmospheric input in this region.The horizontal distribution of tritium showed a maximum in the region facing the Okhotsk Sea near 45°N for every isopycnal surface of ₀ ranging from 26.60 to 27.40. The ages of the intermediate water were calculated for the respective isopycnal surfaces in the maximum region. This calculation assumed that the intermediate water was formed by the isopycnal mixing of two water masses—the Okhotsk Sea and the Bering Sea Component Waters, which had been produced in wintertime by the diapycnal mixing of the surface and the deep waters in the respective marginal seas. The results show that the intermediate water in this region was formed in the late 1980's for the water which has ₀ of 26.60 to 26.80 and about 1970 for the water which has ₀ of 27.00 to 27.40. Although we have estimated the mean ages of the intermediate water, the horizontal profile of dissolved oxygen suggests that the Okhotsk Sea Component Water is younger than the mean age.     

Bispectra of spike-array type time series and their application to the analysis of oceanic microstructures

Bispectral analysis is applied to records of the vertical profile of the vertical temperature gradient in the oceanic thermocline in the San Diego Trough. The bispectra exhibit three notable features; (1) bispectral peaks at the points (0.2 m^–1, 0.2 m^–1) and (0.2 m^–1, 0.1 m^–1), (2) bispectral ridges along the lines ( ₁= ₀, ₂= ₀ and ₁+ ₂= ₀ corresponding to peak wavenumbers ₀ in power spectra, and (3) array of bispectral peaks of interval of 0.2 m^–1 The results are compared with the bispectra of several modeled time series of spike-array type. The periodicity of 5 m found in the records seems to have two meanings: spacing of predominant spikes and wavelength of predominant sinusoidal wave. If this indicates the existence of internal waves having a vertical wavelength the same as the scale of homogeneous layers, it would suggest the possible importance of internal waves in the formation and maintenance mechanisms of oceanic microstructure.     

Water masses and hydrography in the tropical Pacific during Japanese Pacific Climate Study '91 cruise

Hydrographic measurements by CTD were made in the western-central Equatorial Pacific (160°W–147°E) during the Japanese Pacific Climate Study cruise in January–February 1991. InT-S diagram, three water masses are seen in the layer of kg/m³: salinity water corresponding to the Tropical Water of eastern South Pacific origin, less saline water in the North Pacific, and water with salinity between the above two, found on the equator. In three meridional sections (160°W–160°E), the Tropical Water of eastern South Pacific origin extends further equatorward than the climatological data of Levitus (1982).     

On the wave dependence of sea-surface wind stress

Analysis is made of wind and wave data, which were obtained during the passage of Typhoon 8013 at an Ocean Data Buoy Station south of Honshu operated by the Japan Meteorological Agency, in order to investigate the wave dependence of sea-surface roughness parameter in the situation where wind waves are dominant with less significant swells. The data fit better the wave-dependent expression of the wind stress,z _{0 p}/u*=, than to Charnock's formula,gz ₀/u*²=, wherez ₀ is the roughness length, _p the angular frequency of the spectral peak of wind waves,u* the friction velocity of air,g the acceleration of gravity, and are non-dimensional constants. The results are very similar to those of our previous study using data from an oil producing platform in the Bass Strait, Australia, although the type of observation system and the synoptic situation of the winds and wind waves were totally different.     

Ammonium uptake kinetics and interactions between nitrate and ammonium uptake inChattonella antiqua

Ammonium uptake kinetics and interactions between nitrate and ammonium uptake were examined inChattonella antiqua. After the addition of ammonium to the culture ofC. antiqua, the ammonium concentration decreased linearly with time. The ammonium uptake rate as a function of ammonium concentration followed the Michaelis-Menten equation; the maximal uptake rate was 2.0 pmol cell^–1hr^–1 and the half saturation constant, 2.2M. Although the ammonium uptake was not affected by nitrate, uptake of nitrate was rapidly (15min) suppressed by ammonium and a 50% reduction in nitrate uptake was observed at an ammonium concentration ofca. 2M.     

Microbial Diversity in Nankai Trough Sediments at a Depth of 3,843 m

Dense populations of bivalves, primarily Calyptogena sp., were observed at cold seeps of the Nankai Trough. Bacterial input to the sediment was estimated through determination of phospholipid ester-linked fatty acid (PLFA) and DNA profiles. Results indicated a bacterial biomass of 10⁹ cells (g dry wt)^-1 while individual fatty acid profiles revealed a predominance of monounsaturated fatty acids, mainly 18:1 isomers. The presence of these fatty acids can be interpreted to reflect a response to low temperature and a predominance of psychrophilic bacteria. DNA fragments encoding bacterial ribosomal RNA small-subunit sequences (16S rDNA) were amplified by the polymerase chain reaction method using DNA extracted directly from the sediment samples. From the sequencing results, at least 19 kinds of bacterial 16S rDNAs related to mostly the Proteobacteria and a few gram-positive bacteria were identified. These results suggest that the bacterial community in the Nankai Trough sediments consists of mainly bacteria belonging to the Proteobacteria , , and subdivisions. Bacteria belonging to the and subdivisions, which are known to include epibiont and sulfate reducing bacteria, respectively, were mostly detected in the sediment obtained from inside the area of the Calyptogena community, and the -Proteobacteria may function to supply reduced sulfur to bacterial endosymbionts of Calyptogena.     

The mechanism of the development of wind-wave spectra

The mechanism of the development of wind-waves will be proposed on the basis of the observed wave spectra in the wind tunnels and at Lake Biwa (Imasato, 1976). It consists of two aspects: One is that the air flow over the wind-waves transfers momentum concentratively to the steepest component waves and the other is that the upper limit of the growth of a wave spectral density is given by the ultimate value in the slope spectral density. The first aspect means that the wave field has the momentum transfer filter on receiving the momentum from the air flow. Wind-waves in the stage of sea-waves receive the necessary amount of momentum by the form drag,e.g. according to the Miles' (1960) inviscid mechanism, through a very narrow frequency region around a dominant spectral peak. On the other hand, wind-waves in the stage of initial-wavelets receive it according to the Miles' (1962a) viscous model through a fairly broad frequency region around the peak. The upper limit ofS _max developing according to viscous mechanism is given byS _max =6.40×10^–4 k _max ^–2cm²s andS _max =2.03C(f _max )^–2cm²s(S _max is the power density of the wave spectral peak with the frequencyf _max ,k _max is the wave number corresponding to the frequencyf _max andC is the phase velocity).From the second aspect, the upper limit of the growth of wave spectral density is given by 33.3f ^–4cm²s in the frequency region of late stage of sea-waves. Therefore, the spectral peak, which has the largest value in the slope spectral density in the component waves of the wave spectrum, rises high over the line 4.15f ^–5cm²s. The energy is transported from the spectral peak to the high frequency part and to the forward face of a wave spectrum by nonlinear wave-wave interaction. This nonlinearity is confirmed by the bispectra calculated from the observed wind-wave data. In the stage of sea-waves, nonlinear rearrangement of the wave energy comes from a narrow momentum transfer filter, and, in the stage of initial-wavelets, it comes mainly from small corrugations and small steepness of the wave field.     

Kinetics of nitrate and ammonium uptake by the natural populations of marine phytoplankton in the surface water of the Oyashio region during spring and summer

The maximum uptake rate (_max) and affinity constant (K _s) for nitrate and ammonium were estimated in the surface water of offshore Oyashio in May (spring) and September (summer), 1990. The average _max/Chl.a for ammonium was 2.1 times larger than that of nitrate in both seasons. The average _max/Chl.a for both nitrogens were 3.5 times larger in summer than in spring. Water temperature and size composition of phytoplankton population were related to the seasonal difference in the _max/Chl.a. Phytoplankton population showed high affinity for both nitrogens in the spring and summer. In addition, the contribution of new production to total production was estimated by _max[_max–No₃/(_max–NO₃+_max–NH₄)]. The spring value was in the range of 0.26 to 0.45 (mean±SD=0.35±0.092), and the values in spring bloom were especially a little over 0.4. The summer value was in the range of 0.30 to 0.37 (0.34±0.04).     

Indirect evidence of deep flow east of a North Pacific seamount

East-west vertical sections centered on Kinmei Seamount (35N, 172E) of potential temperature, salinity, and oxygen, based on recent standard hydrographic measurements, and vertical profiles ofin situ temperature and density ( ₄) east of the seamount, based on STD data, show contrasting variability in the deep water characteristics east and west of the seamount. These data are consistent with horizontal variations in water mass properties (temperature-salinity and temperature-oxygen curves) east of the seamount between 2,600–3,900 m but not west of the seamount. East of the seamount on surfaces of constant potential temperature (or density) salinity and oxygen are higher at a station 200 km from the seamount than at stations on either side. From these relations and from known deep water properties of the North Pacific, it is suggested that east of the seamount, between 2,600–3,900 m, the observations are consistent with northward flow, which is interpreted to be a western boundary current with an east-west scale of about 300 km.     

Organic geochemistry of the Japan Sea sediments-1: Bulk organic matter and hydrocarbon analyses of Core KH-79-3, C-3 from the Oki Ridge for paleoenvironment assessments

Organic geochemical study of bulk organic matter (OM), hopanoid hydrocarbon and normal hydrocarbon (C₂₃C₃₅) was conducted for a 936-cm-long sediment core sample from the Oki Ridge of the Japan Sea (Core KH-79-3, C-3; 37°03.5 N, 134°42.6E, water depth 935 m). Stable carbon isotopic ratios were also measured for both bulk OM and individual hydrocarbons. The following results were obtained: (1) The weight ratios of total organic carbon to total nitrogen range from 6.2 to 9.4 in the core. The ¹³C values of bulk OM range from –25.1–20.7%.. The ¹³C values of OM in the sections of 140190 cm are lower (–25–24) than those in the other sections (–23–21). This result indicates that OM in the core except for the 140190 cm sections is essentially of marine origin. (2) The ¹³C value of diploptene (a hopanoid hydrocarbon) in the last glacial maximum (LGM), is –66.3 (vs. PDB), which indicates it originating in methanotrophic bacteria. This result provides evidence to support for the previous ideas (Oba et al., 1980, 1984; Masuzawa and Kitano, 1984) that the bottom waters in the Japan Sea were anoxic in LGM. (3) Long chain (C₂₃C₃₅) n-alkanes of higher-plant wax origin were found throughout the core. Their concentration is high in 140190 cm in depth, suggesting that eolian dust load was high in LGM. (4) The n-alkane/TOC ratio increases with decreasing ¹³C values of bulk OM. This result indicates that the load of terrestrial (probably eolian dust-derived) OM to the Japan Sea became higher in colder climates. (5) The CPI values of long-chain n-alkanes are different in different ¹³O stages of paleoclimate, probably reflecting variations in species of terrestrial higher plants as a result of climatological adaptations.     

Formation of the vertical salinity profile in the Black Sea

The vertical distribution of salts brought by the Bosphorus undercurrent is numerically evaluated. By multiplying the average vertical salinity gradient by the diffusion coefficient,K _z , and the cross-section of the sea at the appropriate depth, we can determine the total vertical salt flux,Q(z). The derivative ofQ with respect toz depicts the salt source intensity distribution over depth. The highest intensity, Q/z, matches the 200 m depth level, i.e. the shelf edge. Below 1500 m, Q/z equals merely 0.1% of the value observed at a depth of 200 m. Above 37 m, salts are noted to sink, which corresponds to their outflow with the Bosphorus current. The distribution of Q/z and the respective values of mineral phosphorus and hydrogen sulphide are matched up.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.