粤东靖海湾海岸地貌动力演变及其工程影响

受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。     

浙江朱家尖岛东沙海滩对热带风暴“娜基莉”的响应及风暴后的恢复

海滩对风暴的响应及风暴后海滩的恢复过程一直以来都是国内外海滩研究的热点。本文通过对浙江舟山市朱家尖岛东沙海滩地形地貌的现场调查，对比分析了热带风暴"娜基莉"影响下东沙海滩剖面的蚀积变化，探讨了海滩在热带风暴发生后的恢复情况。结果表明，在"娜基莉"影响期间，因风暴浪为向岸浪，东沙海滩几乎遭受全线侵蚀，12个剖面单宽侵蚀总量为73.46 m3/m，其中海滩直线段较两个遮蔽段侵蚀显著。由于海滩在风暴前进方向的左侧，且"娜基莉"距东沙较远，使得东沙海滩普遍侵蚀但强度较小。东沙海滩在热带风暴后的恢复过程中，不同部位的地貌调整和冲淤变化不同，下岬角遮蔽段基本趋于稳定，直线段和上岬角遮蔽段在恢复过程中因受海滩季节性调整的影响呈现持续侵蚀。     

半遮蔽型海滩剖面长期时空演化过程的经验正交函数分析

半遮蔽型海滩由于一侧海岬的差异作用而影响海滩的演变过程。本文以青岛石老人海水浴场海滩为例,基于对3条典型剖面连续11年现场监测的高程数据,利用经验正交函数(empirical orthogonalfunction,EOF)分析方法将该海滩各剖面高程数据组成的原始距平矩阵依次分解为相应的空间和时间特征函数,分析了石老人海滩的形态演化特征、蚀淤趋势及驱动因素,并采用方差总占比超过77%的前3个经验正交函数来反映此类海滩的基本演化情况,分别为:表征长时间尺度砂质海滩滩面最主要蚀淤变化趋势的第一模态、表征季节性蚀淤变化及其引起的滩肩剖面形成增长或削弱消亡的第二模态和表征人类活动、偶发因素或海岸地形等引起的具有随机性的不规律蚀淤变化的第三模态。结果表明:11年来石老人海滩经历了三个阶段,第一阶段为平稳期(2009年1月—2011年7月),第二阶段为突变期(2011年7月—2012年9月),该阶段之后至今,是第三阶段的平稳期(2012年9月—2019年12月)。海滩剖面在自然和人类活动影响下的高程变化范围在0.1—2.0m范围内。波浪是影响该海滩形态演化的最主要水动力因素,岬角对半遮蔽型海滩的差异庇护作用导致不同位置的剖面演化存在差异。高频率台风的影响、海平面阶段性升高并长期保持较高水平导致了远离岬角的开放岸段存在明显阶段性调整,剖面滩肩宽度减少约30m,岬湾内部剖面则相对稳定,目前海滩剖面形态在第二阶段突变期后达到了新的稳定状态。     

Generalities on static equilibrium bays

Previous methods of determining the curved waterlines of bays which form on the coasts around the world have involved the logarithmic spiral. This has been applied to unstable bays which could erode back to a limit termed “static equilibrium” for which the constant in the spiral could be related to the obliquity of the wave crests to the control line, joining the upcoast headland to the downcoast extremity of the bay. It is shown that this applies mainly to the shadow zone behind the upcoast headland and not to the full bay periphery and does not have a fixed centre. A new method is proposed utilising arcs from the point of wave diffraction to the shoreline, whose lengths and angles to the wave crest line are related to those of the control line. Data and curves are presented for the static equilibrium shape by which the stability can be tested. They thus predict the waterline for the case of no sediment supply either from littoral drift or rivers debouching into the bay. An indentation ratio can also be derived to test stability.     

One-year along-beach variation in the maximum depth of erosion resulting from irregular shoreline morphology

Beach erosion and accretion occur across multiple time scales. Over long time scales (decades to millennia) the shoreface ravinement surface, which is recognized as a coarse lag deposit, forms at the shoreface toe as a result of wave- and current-induced erosion during shoreline transgression. Over short time scales (hours to days) the depth of sediment disturbance, which is recognized as coarse lamina and measured at the foreshore by devices and monitoring tracer beds, forms as a result of wave- and current-induced reworking during a tidal cycle. The maximum depth of erosion (MDOE), quantified here over 1 year, is modulated by processes that operate over a time scale that is between the drivers of short-term (e.g. tides and waves) and long-term (e.g. sea-level rise) beach erosion. The MDOE integrates the erosion that occurs over a discrete time interval and records the maximum depth of erosion that is likely principally induced by storms, which is difficult to quantify by other methods that rely on discrete observations (e.g. changes in elevation or movement of the mean high-water line). A novel technique for quantifying the MDOE, based on comparing the bedding and stratigraphy between cores collected at the same locations over a discrete time interval, is presented here and applied at Onslow Beach, NC, USA. This 12 km-long barrier island has irregular shoreline morphology, characterized by two embayments separated by a central headland. This shape is largely the result of variations in the depth of underlying rock strata and produces a steeper beachface at the headland than at the embayments. At each of the six sites examined along the barrier, the MDOE is found to increase from the backshore to the middle intertidal zone and is higher at the sites closer to the headland. These variations in the MDOE are likely due to the increase in average wave energy impacting the beachface from an offshore direction and steeper beaches (intermediate beach state) at the headland. Where the MDOE is within the beach facies, it is not associated with a coarsening, which is due to the heterolithic nature of the Onslow-beach strata. Where the MDOE is the contact between back-barrier and beach facies it is always associated with a coarsening and a gravel-rich lag deposit because in this case, the MDOE is an amalgamation of multiple erosional events, which is similar to the shoreface ravinement surface. Along-beach variation in the MDOE does not correspond with discrete observations of beach change over the same period and is likely a better indicator of erosion potential than long-term discrete observations, such as changes in surface elevation or the position of the mean high-water line.     

Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and São Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay–headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range).     

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。     

The effects of a bypass dunefield on the stability of a headland bay beach: A case study

This paper presents a case study on the modelling of a headland bay beach influenced by sediment input from migrating coastal dunes. The study area is the region around the town of Ingleses on Santa Catarina Island, Santa Catarina state, South-Eastern Brazil. Ingleses has been threatened by nature at two different fronts. At the north-eastern side of the town lies Ingleses Beach, a headland bay beach which seems to be subject to persistent erosion in recent years. On the south-western side the town is threatened by a migrating dunefield, which is encroaching onto houses and infrastructure, but which has not reached the beach in the past 70 years. A second dunefield in the area does not pose a direct threat to the town, but passes it on the eastern side and forms an important influence on the development of the beach. The sediment influx rate from this dunefield to the beach is 10,000 m³/year. To investigate the effect of the dunefields on the morphodynamic system, a numerical model has been created using the software packages SWAN and UNIBEST and the static equilibrium bay shape was determined by the software package MEPBAY. The result of the long-term scenario as predicted by UNIBEST agrees rather well with the static equilibrium bay shape found with MEPBAY. This provides sounds basis for the credibility of both models. Consequently, the predicted evolutional trend of the shoreline seems plausible.     

Calculation of beach change under interacting cross-shore and longshore processes

This paper presents a mathematical approach and numerical model that simulates beach and dune change in response to cross-shore processes of dune growth by wind and dune erosion by storms, and by gradients in longshore sand transport that will alter shoreline position. Sub-aerial transport processes are represented, whereas sub-aqueous transport is neglected. The system is tightly coupled morphologically, with the berm playing a central role. For example, the potential for sand to be transported to the dune by wind depends on berm width, and sand lost in erosion of the dune during storms can widen the berm. Morphologic equilibrium considerations are introduced to improve reliability of predictions and stability of the non-linear model. An analytical solution is given under simplification to illustrate properties of the model. Sensitivity tests with the numerical solution of the coupled equations demonstrate model performance, with one test exploring beach and dune response to potential increase in storm-wave height with global warming. Finally, the numerical model is applied to examine the consequences of groin shortening at Westhampton Beach, Long Island, New York, as an alternative for providing a sand supply to the down-drift beach. Results indicate that the sand will be released over several decades as the shoreline and dune move landward in adjustment to the new equilibrium condition with the shortened groins.     

海岸侵蚀作用下海岸带地区极端风暴洪水风险评估 —以上海石化为例

海堤是海岸带地区社会经济活动的重要保护屏障。海岸侵蚀的加剧将导致海堤稳定性和安全性降低, 增加海岸带地 区遭受极端风暴洪水的风险, 进而影响到海岸带地区的安全。本文选择上海石化这一遭受海岸侵蚀较为严重的区域作为研究 区, 利用 GIS 分析了 1972—2020 年近岸海床侵蚀特征, 并基于 2000—2020 年-5 m 等深线变化评估了上海石化近岸海堤的 稳定性。结果表明： 1972—2020 年间上海石化前沿海床整体以侵蚀为主, 石化近岸东侧以及西侧局部的浅滩侵蚀明显, 城 市沙滩中段、第 6 次围堤处以及码头东岸海堤稳定性最低。基于上述研究结果, 考虑海堤稳定性薄弱段出现极端风暴洪水漫 堤或溃堤情景, 模拟并分析了上海石化 2010 年 、2030 年和2050 年遭受千年一遇极端风暴洪水的风险。结果显示： 在 2010 年基准年情景下, 受海岸侵蚀作用最明显的城市沙滩和第6 次围堤区域遭遇极端风暴洪水的风险最高, 到 2050 年, 当前稳 定性较好的海堤安全性也将大大降低, 与 2010 年相比, 上海石化近岸地区的直接经济损失将会增加近 3 倍。     

治理海岸侵蚀的人工岬湾养滩综合法

对海岸侵蚀特征及防治措施效果的分析表明,人工养滩方法是最为环保、长效、经济的海岸侵蚀防治方法.在详细介绍静态平衡岬湾和人工养滩的基本原理的基础上,重点阐述了人工岬湾养滩综合法的设计原则和总体思路,并以北戴河西海滩恢复治理工程为例进行了方案设计.     

海南万宁岬湾海岸海滩稳定性研究

岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海岸研究的重要内容。基于多期遥感影像、海滩沉积物粒度分布,并采用岬湾海滩平衡形态模型(MEPBAY),分析探讨了海南岛东部万宁4个典型岬湾海岸海滩的稳定性及其模型的应用。研究表明,除东澳湾凸角处于不稳定状态,其余海岸处于静态或准静态平衡状态;岬湾海滩沉积物粒度在遮蔽段和开敞段有明显的差异,相邻海滩之间没有明显的泥沙交换,每个岬湾海滩都是相对独立的地貌单元;模型中上岬角控制点选取应考虑岛礁及水下礁坪;抛物线模型可以拓展应用于有离岸岛情况下的海湾。研究成果可为岬湾海滩的稳定性评估和管理提供科学依据。     

深圳大鹏半岛南岸西冲海滩的沉积物来源、平面形态稳定性及横向变化

The coast of the Dapeng Peninsula has been honored as one of "the eight most beautiful coasts in China". The most precious tourism resource for the peninsula is headland bay beaches, among which the beach at Xichong on the southern coast of the peninsula is the longest and the most important one. The information of the stability, sedimentary source and shape change of the beach is very important for maintaining the beach in terms of sustainable development of the peninsula. Heavy minerals in the sand of the beach and the inland stream at Xichong are compared with those of a nearby beach on the same coast to determine the beach sand source; with help of a computer software, MEPBAY, the equilibrium planforms of the beaches on the peninsula are compared with those of an island without rivers to evaluate the stream’s effects on the beach stability; cross shore profiles along the Xichong beach are also surveyed in different seasons of a year to assess the annual shore normal beach changes affected by the stream input, and the relation between the equilibrium planform state and cross shore changes of the beach. It is shown that(1) stream is the main sedimentary source of the beach and the weathering materials of the rocky headlands on both sides of the bay transported by waves are the second source for the beach but it is limited, sand from an inner shelf is not the sedimentary source for the beach at present and was not even during the Holocene transgression;(2) the Xichong beach cannot reach static equilibrium around the entire bay shoreline, the segment of the shoreline where a stream outlet is located is in dynamic equilibrium, and the unstable section occurs in the wave shadow region in the lee of an offshore island;(3) no matter whether the section of the beach shoreline at Xichong is in an equilibrium state or not, it is eroded in the typhoon season and recovered after the season, the maximum change in erosion and accretion occurs in the unstable segment;(4) the Xichong beach can only have small sand body since it is supplied with sand mainly form inland streams, resulting in a possible danger in which sand loss induced by human activities or huge storms cannot be replenished naturally.     

沙质海岸波浪动床模型设计—毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷试验模型

本文结合毛里塔尼亚友谊港下游冲刷模型的试验研究探讨了海岸波浪动床模型的相似律和试验波浪要素的确定。作者推导获得了同时满足波浪作用下岸滩剖面冲淤相似、沿程冲淤部位相似、泥沙起动相似和沉降相似的综合相似比尺公式：λρｓ－ρ＝λ＾１／３ｌ．λ＾１／６Ｄ；λｄ＝（λＤ／λｔ）＾２／３解决了波浪冲刷动床模型的基本相似问题和砂的选砂问题。对于常浪向与强浪向不一致的海岸，作者提出了采用综合考虑波高、波周期（或波     

Design and performance of headland bays in Chesapeake Bay,USA

The use of headland-breakwater systems along the shore of Chesapeake Bay began in the early 1980s. Properly designed and installed headland breakwaters with beach fill and wetlands plantings provide shore protection and create a “full” coastal profile of beach/backshore/dune which enhances habitat. They create a tertiary buffer for upland runoff and groundwater and provide access and recreation. The wetland grasses also create an erosion resistant turf. The coastal profile accommodates environmental permitting requirements of habitat enhancement for shore protection structures.     

毛里塔尼亚友谊港上下游岸线演变模拟及预测

毛里塔尼亚友谊港处于典型的强沿岸输沙型沙质海岸,年平均沿岸输沙量为90×10~4~100×10~4m~3。由于防波堤工程对上游沿岸输沙的拦截,港区岸线冲淤变化强烈。根据实测资料分析,采用基于"一线理论"的岸线演变数学模型,对友谊港上下游岸线变化作了整体验证,统筹分析了港口工程对上游淤积和下游冲刷的影响。在此基础上,进一步预测了友谊港未来20年的岸线变化情况。结果表明,在港区现有建筑物布置情况下,下游岸线的大幅冲刷将危及陆域土堤的安全,是友谊港未来防护的重点之一。若考虑每隔一定年限在下游增建丁坝工程,形成丁坝群护岸工程,可延长下游岸线的冲刷防护范围,减小对陆域建筑物的威胁。     

Beach profiles characteristics along Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts, Vietnam: A field study

Giao Thuy and Hai Hau coasts are located in Nam Dinh province, Vietnam, with a total coastline of 54.42 km in length. The sea-dike system has been seriously damaged and there have been many dike breaches which caused floods and losses. This situation is considered of a general representative for coastal area in the northern part of Vietnam. A variety of studies have shown that the gradient in the longshore sediment transport rate and the offshore ?ne sediment lost are the main mechanisms causing the beach erosion. This study presents a field investigation of the beach profiles at Giao Thuy and Hai Hau beaches. Three types of empirical functions for the equilibrium beach profile are applied and compared with the observations. Results show that all observed beach pro?les can be described by a single function. However, one specific equilibrium pro?le equation is not sufficient to assess all beach pro?les. In Section 1 of Giao Thuy and Section 3 of Hai Thinh beaches, beach profiles are consistent with the logarithmic function, while the exponential function fits well in Section 2. This difference is explained with respect to coastal morphology, sediment characteristics and hydrodynamic conditions which vary in site. An analysis of the validity of the beach profile functions is recommended for the numerical modeling and engineering designs in this area.     

Eco-environmental impact assessment of pre-leisure beach nourishment on the benthic invertebrate community at Anping coast

In recent years,owing to global warming and the rising sea levels,beach nourishment and groin building have been increasingly employed to protect coastal land from shoreline erosion.These actions may degrade beach habitats and reduce biomass and invertebrate density at sites where they were employed.We conducted an eco-environmental evaluation at the Anping artificial beach-nourishment project area.At this site,sand piles within a semi-enclosed spur groin have been enforced by use of eco-engineering concepts since 2003.Four sampling sites were monitored during the study period from July 2002 to September 2008.The environmental impact assessment and biological investigations that we conducted are presented here.The results from this study indicate that both biotic(number of species,number of individual organisms,and Shannon-Wiener diversity) and abiotic parameters(suspended solids,biological oxygen demand,chemical oxygen demand,dissolved inorganic nitrogen,dissolved inorganic phosphorus,total phosphorus,total organic carbon,median diameter,and water content) showed significant differences before and after beach engineering construction.Biological conditions became worse in the beginning stages of the engineering but improved after the restoration work completion.This study reveals that the composition of benthic invertebrates changed over the study period,and two groups of organisms,Bivalvia and Gastropoda,seemed to be particularly suitable to this habitat after the semi-enclosed artificial structures completion.     

2010—2020及影响因素分析年青岛海滩剖面稳定性

海滩的稳定性及其演变是砂质海滩研究的重要内容。在全球砂质海滩普遍遭受侵蚀的背景下,分析部分稳定海滩的特征和原因可以为海滩维护和科学管理提供重要参考。本文基于近 11 年 （2010—2020 年） 青岛第一、第三和石老人海水浴场共 8 条典型剖面的实地监测高程数据,对海滩滩肩宽度和单宽体积进行计算对比,研究表明,除石老人海水浴场一个剖面变化较大外,其他剖面的滩肩宽度只变化了 0~14 m,是 11 年前的 0%~23.3%;单宽体积变化了 8.5~46.5 m3,是 11 年前的1.0%~9.4%;海滩剖面垂向扰动范围一般在 30~60 cm 范围内。海滩存在局部小尺度淤积或侵蚀,剖面形态总体较为稳定。海平面变化、台风和风暴潮等自然因素是海岸轻微侵蚀或调整的重要影响因素,但对海滩的优化管理 （包括定期监测海滩、适度展开养护、制定完善的管理政策和加强执行力度等人为因素） 可以应对这些海滩变化,并且已成为近年来该研究海滩保持稳定的关键因素。