再论台风波浪的波型及其与海岩工程设计波浪要素的关系

本文以实测台风波浪资料对台风影响过程中固定点波浪能量集中度的变化和有效波陡的变化进行分析，得出华南近岸浅水区台风波浪的波型与台风中心位置的统计关系，并进一步阐明了台风过程中固定点出现较大台风波浪的波型是风浪以及用于海岸工程设计的台风波浪亦为风浪的结论，文中讨论了台风波浪波型对海岸工程建设中的设计波高，周期等要素取值的影响。     

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之     

再论台风波浪的波型及其与海岸工程设计波浪要素的关系

本文以实测台风波浪资料对台风影响过程中固定点波浪能量集中度的变化和有效波陡的变化进行分析，得出华南近岸浅水区台风波浪的波型与台风中心位置的统计关系，并进一步阐明了台风过程中固定点出现较大台风波浪的波型是风浪以及用于海岸工程设计的台风波浪亦为风浪的结论。文中还讨论了台风波浪波型对海岸工程建设中的设计波高、周期等要素取值的影响。     

南麂海域台风游泳的波型分析

以南麂海洋站１９８３－１９８９年实测台风波浪资料为依据，分析了台风影响过程中测点波型的演变，对台风浪的波陡与波型、风速与波型之间的关系进行讨论。从而得出，台风影响过程中本区出现较大波浪的波型绝大部分属于风浪，６级以上风速作用时，本区台风浪均属于风浪波型，从而可以断定，不同重现期的台风波浪应属于风浪。     

影响计算海湾内台风波浪的诸因素

本文阐明了影响计算海湾内台风波浪的重要因素，使用我们目前已改进了的模式，可克服以往的计算缺陷，而使计算效果达到最佳。同时，阐述了不同海湾、不同的地理环境对台风浪波能的消衰不同。并强调了台风增水对台风浪计算的影响，其也直接影响着工程设计波浪参数的合理选取。     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪(三)各种重现期台风波浪要素的确定

本文以现场的实测资料和４４年间台风波浪后报结果为基础,考虑到各种重现期波浪出现时伴随着台风增水对计算点各种累积率波高的影响,通过对复合极值分布法,皮尔逊Ⅲ型曲线法和短期资料外推法的比较,给出进行波和破碎波条件下的各种重现期台风波浪要素。     

台风波浪的波型及其与海岸工程设计波浪要素的关系

本文以实测台风波浪资料为依据,分析了台风影响过程中固定点波型的演变,讨论了台风过程波浪的波陡与波型、风速与波型、波高与风速和波向与风向之间的关系.从而得出,在受台风直接影响的海区内,台风影响过程中出现较大波浪时的波型属于风浪,不同重现期台风波浪的波型也属于风浪的结论.本文以大亚湾海滨区的100年重现期设计波浪要素的计算为例,讨论了台风波浪的波型与设计波浪要素的取值关系.     

不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪分析

分析了大亚湾湾口测点W1和湾内测点W2的台风波浪资料，并与海口新海湾内测点B的波能消衰情况进行对比，说明不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪分布特性之差异，结果表明，W1及W2两处台风波浪的平均波高H和平均周期T的比值分别为0.54和0.75，而最大比值分别为0.67和1.01；同时，不同地理位置海湾内的台风波浪也各有不同的计算方案。     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪(一)实测记录的分析

作者选择了汕头近岸区某测点的台风（包括热带风暴和强热带风暴，下同）波浪从下列三个方面进行分析研究：（一）实测记录的分析；（二）后报台风波浪及其基本特征；（三）各种重现期台风波浪要素的确定。力图为该近岸区海岸工程设计中必须考虑的水动力参数提供依据。本文，着重分析了实测台风波浪能量的分布，给出台风过程波浪能量随频率和方向的变化；波浪能量的集中程度以及台风过程测点出现波高最大值时波浪能量随频率和方向的分布等。从实测资料的分析揭示台风波浪能量的结构。     

台湾岛邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究

基于目前国际上较为先进的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Near-shore)。在充分考虑相关物理过程（风生浪，底摩擦，白帽耗散，深度诱导波破碎，非线性波－波相互作用）基础上，以较高的分辨率对影响台湾岛邻近海域的9015号台风浪过程进行了模拟研究。模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型同化相应台风资料后提供；用自嵌套方式提供模式波谱边界条件。模拟结果与实际台风浪资料相符较好。台风过程模拟结果表明；台风中心位于台湾岛邻近海域的不同位置，台风浪有效波高的分布特征和传播方向都有着较大的差异。可以为整个台湾岛邻近海域台风浪分布特征的了解与认识提供较好的参考。     

Application of VOF in Calculating Wave Energy Loss due to Spilling Breaker

- A large amount of experimental analysis and systematical theoretical calculation has been done by the authors to solve the problem of wave transformation and breaking, considering the effect of both current and topography, but only the wave energy loss due to spilling breaker in the surf zone has been discussed in this paper. Based on test result analysis and calculation with the Stream Function Wave Theory, the wave velocity field at breaking points has been obtained, and it is used to calculate the wave heights after breaking by the VOF (Volume of Fluid) method, in which the governing equations are continuity equation and Navier-Stokes Equation for imcompressible fluids. In the present paper, the improved VOF technique is used to calculate the wave heights of stable regular waves after breaking. Results fit the test data well, which shows that the VOF method is suitable to numerical simulation of regular waves after breaking. Besides, the breaker coefficient B of regular waves in the bore model is a     

深水波浪破碎时波浪演化特征实验研究

采用能量聚焦的方式产生深水破碎波,并通过增加输入波陡使发生不同强度的波浪破碎现象。实验中,沿水槽中心位置布置22个浪高仪,分析波浪传播过程中的波面演化特征。对水槽不同位置处波面数据进行波能谱与小波能谱分析,发现在聚焦波传播过程中,低频能量部分保持相对稳定,而一次谐波高频部分先逐渐拓宽,经过破碎区域后又逐渐恢复。能量在高频部分有所损失,这种现象在破碎时更加明显,且破碎强度越大,越显著。波浪未破碎时,由于波浪传播过程中高频部分拓宽,导致聚焦前后特征频率略有增加,特征群速和特征周期略有减小;当波浪破碎时,由于破碎导致的能量损失比较明显,且卷破时更加明显,导致破碎后特征频率减小,特征群速和特征周期增大。     

近岸水域波浪变形数学模型

本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个近岸水域波浪变形数学模型,模型中采用Ｂａｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起来求解近岸水域波浪折射绕射的联合影响的波浪要素。利用本文提出的数学模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,结果表明本文提出的近岸水域波浪变形的数学模型是可靠的,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的。     

Exploitable wave energy assessment based on ERA-Interim reanalysis data—A case study in the East China Sea and the South China Sea

Wave energy resources assessment is a very important process before the exploitation and utilization of the wave energy. At present, the existing wave energy assessment is focused on theoretical wave energy conditions for interesting areas. While the evaluation for exploitable wave energy conditions is scarcely ever performed.Generally speaking, the wave energy are non-exploitable under a high sea state and a lower sea state which must be ignored when assessing wave energy. Aiming at this situation, a case study of the East China Sea and the South China Sea is performed. First, a division basis between the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy is studied. Next, based on recent 20 a ERA-Interim wave field data, some indexes including the spatial and temporal distribution of wave power density, a wave energy exploitable ratio, a wave energy level, a wave energy stability, a total wave energy density, the seasonal variation of the total wave energy and a high sea condition frequency are calculated. And then the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy are compared each other; the distributions of the exploitable wave energy are assessed and a regional division for exploitable wave energy resources is carried out; the influence of the high sea state is evaluated. The results show that considering collapsing force of the high sea state and the utilization efficiency for wave energy, it is determined that the energy by wave with a significant wave height being not less 1 m or not greater than 4 m is the exploitable wave energy. Compared with the theoretical wave energy, the average wave power density, energy level, total wave energy density and total wave energy of the exploitable wave energy decrease obviously and the stability enhances somewhat. Pronounced differences between the theoretical wave energy and the exploitable wave energy are present. In the East China Sea and the South China Sea, the areas of an abundant and stable exploitable wave energy are primarily located in the north-central part of the South China Sea, the Luzon Strait,east of Taiwan, China and north of Ryukyu Islands; annual average exploitable wave power density values in these areas are approximately 10–15 k W/m; the exploitable coefficient of variation(COV) and seasonal variation(SV)values in these areas are less than 1.2 and 1, respectively. Some coastal areas of the Beibu Gulf, the Changjiang Estuary, the Hangzhou Bay and the Zhujiang Estuary are the poor areas of the wave energy. The areas of the high wave energy exploitable ratio is primarily in nearshore waters. The influence of the high sea state for the wave energy in nearshore waters is less than that in offshore waters. In the areas of the abundant wave energy, the influence of the high sea state for the wave energy is prominent and the utilization of wave energy is relatively difficult. The developed evaluation method may give some references for an exploitable wave energy assessment and is valuable for practical applications.     

An Experimental Study on A Trapezoidal Pendulum Wave Energy Converter in Regular Waves

Experimental studies were conducted on a trapezoidal pendulum wave energy converter in regular waves. To obtain the incident wave height, the analytical method (AM) was used to separate the incident and reflected waves propagating in a wave flume by analysing wave records measured at two locations. The response amplitude operator (RAO), primary conversion efficiency and the total conversion efficiency of the wave energy converter were studied; furthermore, the power take-off damping coefficients corresponding to the load resistances in the experiment were also obtained. The findings demonstrate that the natural period for a pendulum wave energy converter is relatively large. A lower load resistance gives rise to a larger damping coefficient. The model shows relatively higher wave energy conversion efficiency in the range of 1.0?1.2 s for the incident wave period. The maximum primary conversion efficiency achieved was 55.5%, and the maximum overall conversion efficiency was 39.4%.     

应用“跨零-能量”法估算海洋波浪再生能资源

海洋波浪能是一种可持续和零污染的再生能源,随着自然能源日渐匮乏和全球气候变化,人类对波浪能的开发利用显得尤其重要。本文应用"跨零—能量"波浪分析的新方法,首次推导了不规则波浪的波能流垂向分布及其理论计算公式。本文研究发现,浅水波能流具有均匀的垂向分布,深水波能流集中于海表层的水体中,过渡区波能流的垂向分布介于浅水和深水波能的分布之间。研究还发现,目前海洋波能流的估算方法和现今波浪发电装置的波能采集深度缺少相关性,过高估算了海洋波浪的可发电资源。     

The assessment of ocean wave energy along the coasts of Taiwan

The wave energy resource around the coasts of Taiwan is investigated with wave buoy data covering a 3-year period(2007~2009).Eleven study sites within the region bounded by the 21.5oN~25.5oN latitudes and 118oE~122oE longitudes are selected for analysis.The monthly moving-average filter is used to obtain the low-frequency trend based on the available hourly data.After quantifying the wave power and annual wave energy,the substantial resource is the result of Penghu buoy station,which is at the northeastern side of Penghu Island in the Taiwan Strait.It is investigated that the Penghu sea area is determined to be the optimal place for wave energy production according to its abundant resource of northeasterly monsoon waves,sheltering of the Taiwan Island,operation and maintenance in terms of seasonal conditions,and constructability of wave power devices.     

集成于方箱防波堤的双气室振荡水柱波能装置转换效率研究

为实现建造、运行和维护等方面的资源共享,将振荡水柱(oscillating water column,简称OWC)波能转换装置与现有海工结构集成耦合,已成为目前海洋波浪能转换利用的热点问题。以集成于方箱防波堤的双气室OWC装置为研究对象,借助开源代码平台OpenFOAM和造/消波工具箱waves2Foam,采用流体体积法(VOF)捕捉自由面和6自由度(6DOF)动网格求解器模拟垂荡运动响应,对在不同规则波作用下,中墙相对宽度、中墙相对吃水对装置波能转换效率及水动力特性的影响进行数值研究。结果表明,较大的中墙相对宽度能够增强装置的波能转换效率(ξ_total(max)=73%)、降低结构物的相对垂荡位移并对装置前后气室内水柱的振荡幅度与压强变化产生影响;增加中墙相对吃水能显著提高气室在中高频波段波能提取效率(ξ_total(max)=78%),并显著拓宽气室的高效频率带宽(0.9≤ω²h/g≤2.2)。     

An assessment of global ocean wave energy resources over the last 45 a

Against the background of the current world facing an energy crisis,and human beings puzzled by the problems of environment and resources,developing clean energy sources becomes the inevitable choice to deal with a climate change and an energy shortage.A global ocean wave energy resource was reanalyzed by using ERA-40 wave reanalysis data 1957–2002 from European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF).An effective significant wave height is defined in the development of wave energy resources(short as effective SWH),and the total potential of wave energy is exploratively calculated.Synthetically considering a wave energy density,a wave energy level probability,the frequency of the effective SWH,the stability and long-term trend of wave energy density,a swell index and a wave energy storage,global ocean wave energy resources were reanalyzed and regionalized,providing reference to the development of wave energy resources such as wave power plant location,seawater desalination,heating,pumping.