Short-term beach–dune sand budgets on the north sea coast of France: Sand supply from shoreface to dunes, and the role of wind and fetch

Three experimental plots, covering the transition from the upper beach to the dune, on the North Sea coast of France were monitored at various intervals over a period of 18–24 months via high resolution terrain surveys in order to determine inter-site sand budget variability, as well as patterns and processes involved in sand exchanges between the upper beach and dune. The wind regime consists of a fairly balanced mix of moderate (80% of winds are below 8 m/s) onshore, offshore and shore-parallel winds. Sustained dune accretion over several years depends on the periodic local onshore welding of shoreface tidal banks that have developed in the storm- and tide-dominated setting of the southern North Sea. The only site where this has occurred in the recent past is Calais, where bank welding has created a wide accreting upper beach sand flat. At this site, significant sand supply from the subtidal sand bank reservoir to the upper beach flat occurred only once over the 18-month survey following a major storm. The bulk of the sand deposited over this large flat is not directly integrated into the adjacent embryo dunes by onshore winds but is progressively reworked in situ into developing dunes or transported alongshore by the balanced wind regime, thus resulting in alongshore stretching of the embryo dune system. The Leffrinckoucke site near Belgium shows moderate beach–dune mobility and accretion, while the Wissant site exhibits significant upper beach bedform mobility controlled by strong longshore currents that result in large beach budget fluctuations with little net budget change, to the detriment of the adjacent dunes. Accretion at these two sites, which are representative of the rest of the North Sea coast of France, is presently constrained by the absence of a shore-attached sand bank supply reservoir, while upper beach–dune sand exchanges are further limited by the narrow wave-affected upper beach, the intertidal morphology of bars and troughs which segments the aeolian fetch, and the moderate wind energy conditions. The balanced wind regime limits net sand mobilisation in favour of either the beach or the dune, and may explain the relatively narrow longshore morphology of the dune ridges bounding this coast.     

An analysis of subaerial beach rotation and influences of environmental forcing adjacent to the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon

Beach Profiles surveys and gale climate data were utilised to assess medium timescale beach rotation at four beaches located along the shores of a crenulated embayment within Swansea Bay, Southwest Wales. The proposed Tidal Lagoon is located within this Bay. Results identified a 7 year (1998–2005) record of cyclic summer/winter rotation and a 14 year (1999–2013) record of annual rotation within the subaerial zone on all four assessed beaches. In the absence of headlands to trap sediment it is asserted that the driving force for beach rotation is the presence of Swansea Dockland/Tawe dredged channel complex, Port Talbot Harbour and the Neath dredged channel which form surrogate headlands essentially creating four separate beach systems through restricting sediment by-pass. Seasonal averaged wind and wave variables showed differing correlation with volume changes and cross-correlation results showed that volume variation lagged behind forcing variables by up to six months (i.e. the resolution of the data). This was confirmed by the annually averaged results which showed only subtle correlation. Here volume change in most cases lagged forcing variables by less than one year. Based on correlations, wind direction variability follows closely with volume changes but wind speed, wave period and height are generally opposite. Initial results suggest that the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon, located between sediment cells and surrogate headlands, would have little negative effect on subaerial coastal processes. These datasets will be used as a benchmark for monitoring prior to, during and post construction, with results being used to update and inform subsequent strategies.     

Cyclic and Seasonal Beach Response: A Comparison of Oceanside and Bayside Beaches

This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches.

Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes.     

Processes reshaping the Nile delta promontories of Egypt: pre- and post-protection

Shoreline positions established from beach profile surveys combined with wave data are jointly analyzed, as a function of their contribution to coastal processes, to investigate the interaction between waves, shoreline orientation and coastal structures along the Nile delta promontories, Rosetta, Burullus and Damietta. Repeated beach profile surveys along the promontory sectors (64 km long in total) have been analyzed to determine rates of shoreline changes prior to construction (1971–1990) and after construction of protective structures (1990–2000). The behavior of coastline pre- and post-construction indicates that coastal erosion fronting protective structures has declined in the case of the seawalls at the tips of the Rosetta and Damietta promontories, or has been partially replaced by sand accumulation in the case of detached breakwaters at Baltim (east of Burullus promontory) and at Ras El Bar (west of the Damietta promontory). As a consequence, downdrift erosion has been initiated in local areas adjacent to these structures in the direction of longshore sediment transport. The 5-km-long seawall protecting the Rosetta promontory has stopped the dramatic erosion of this highly eroded area (formerly shoreward retreated 88 m/year), with adverse local erosion at its west and east ends, being 3 and 13 m/year, respectively. Similarly, the 6-km-long seawall built on the eastern tip of the Damietta Promontory, still under construction, has nearly stopped the severe erosion, which was formerly 10 m/year. The detached breakwaters at both Baltim and at Ras El Bar have accumulated sand at accretion rates of 37 and 14 m/year, respectively. This sand accumulation is associated with downdrift erosion of 25 and 13 m/year at Baltim and Ras El Bar, respectively. Results reaffirm that the original erosion/accretion patterns along the Nile delta promontories have been reshaped due to the massive protective structures built during the last decade. This reshaping along the examined promontories is generally controlled by the temporal variability in the intensity and reversibility of wave directions and associated longshore currents, coastline orientation and by the existing coastal protection structures.     

Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches

Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit.     

Deciphering chrysophyte responses to climate seasonality

Climate change involves alterations in seasonality as well as shifts in mean annual temperature. Cold temperate lakes show strong seasonality, with winter ice cover and alternating mixing and stratification periods during the ice-free season. These physical changes are ultimately related to seasonal weather variation and also drive annual phytoplankton succession. Therefore, phytoplankton remains in lake sediment records are potentially useful for reconstructing past seasonal climate signals. With the exception of investigations on varved sediments, however, little research has been carried out on the subject. Here we present two lines of evidence demonstrating that chrysophyte stomatocysts can be useful for inferring past climatic seasonality. First, we show that marked seasonal stomatocyst replacement is related to periods of the main physical processes in the lake. Second, using instrumental climate data and microfossils in sediment cores, we show that two main components of stomatocyst variability over the last ~150 years are related to seasonal fluctuations. The first of these components is related to stomatocysts present during summer stratification that respond to general warming trends, particularly in July and August. The second component relates to stomatocysts typically present in the spring and autumn mixing periods. Numbers of these two stomatocyst types vary inversely in response to variation in spring (April–May) temperatures. The number of stomatocyst types affected by spring temperatures is much greater than those related to summer temperatures. We provide evidence that chrysophyte stomatocysts are an excellent proxy for spring air temperature reconstructions, with little influence from summer or general annual trends. We also show that with relatively little effort, it is possible to categorise the chrysophyte stomatocyst assemblage of a lake to carry out detailed investigation of the record of seasonal changes preserved within the sediment.     

An approach to the problem of coastal erosion in quaternary sediments

Approximately 40 per cent of the shorelines of the lower Great Lakes are backed by relatively weak Quaternary sediments, and similar shorelines are found on many middle and high-latitude coasts. The high rates of bluff recession which are characteristic of these areas lead to economic losses through erosion of land and damage to buildings, and may prompt a wide range of measures designed to reduce erosion and protect property. Assessment of the physical problem and of possible solutions to it can best be achieved through a sediment budget approach. This is illustrated through a case study of an area near Grimsby, Ontario. The volume of sediment supply to the beach was calculated from measurements of bluff height and annual recession rates. The potential volume of longshore sediment transport was determined from the wave climate of the area and computer modelling of wave refraction. The relationship between sediment supply and potential transport rate can be used to assess the magnitude of the sediment deficit or surplus at points along the shoreline, and this provides an insight into the controls on alongshore variations in recession rates.     

Tsunami as agents of geomorphic change in mid-ocean reef islands

Low-lying atoll islands appear highly vulnerable to the effects of climate change and extreme natural events. Potentially disastrous effects of future sea-level rise have been inferred in many studies, and the actual impacts of tropical storms on island destruction and formation have been well documented. In contrast, the role of tsunami in the geomorphic development of atoll islands has not been investigated. The Sumatran earthquake of 26 December 2004 generated a tsunami that reached the Maldives 2500 km away, with waves up to 2.5 m high. Observations on the geomorphic changes resulting from the tsunami are detailed here, based on pre-and post-tsunami profile measurements of island, beach and reef topography, and GPS surveys of the planform shape of islands and beaches of 11 uninhabited islands in South Maalhosmadulu atoll, Maldives. Erosional and depositional impacts were observed on all islands and these have been quantified. In general the changes were of a minor nature with a maximum reduction in island area of 9% and average of 3.75%. Rather, the tsunami accentuated predictable seasonal oscillations in shoreline change, including localised erosion reflected in fresh scarps and seepage gullies. Depositional features in the form of sand sheets and sand lobes emplaced on the vegetated island surfaces provide clear evidence that the tsunami waves washed over parts of all the islands. Both erosional scarps and overwash deposits were concentrated at the tsunami-exposed eastern sides of the islands. Impacts on leeward shores were primarily accretionary, in the form of spit and cuspate foreland extension. Whereas the nature and magnitude of intra-and inter-island impacts was variable, an east to west decline in aggregate effects was noted. Detailed consideration of the morphodynamic interaction between the tsunami waves and island morphology, show that this cross-atoll gradient resulted not just from the reduction in tsunami energy as it passed through the atoll, but also from variations in elevation of the encircling island ridge, and the quantity and distribution of sediment in the antecedent beach. A conceptual model identifying the sequence of changes to individual islands supports the observational data and the pattern of geomorphic changes resulting from the tsunami. This model leads to consideration of the longer-term impacts of the tsunami on the future stability of islands. Four scenarios are presented, each of which has a different island-beach sediment budget, and different relaxation time to achieve dynamic equilibrium.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings — A review

Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics.     

Medium time-scale behaviour of adjacent embayed beaches: Influence of low energy external forcing

Medium term (decadal) beach profile response to external forcing was assessed on two adjacent embayed beaches (North and South Sands) in Pembrokeshire, West Wales. Both have contrasting physical and geological characteristics: a headland bay backed by dunes and a constrained embayment backed by geological promontories, promenades, walls and rock revetments. Paired t-tests showed significant changes at all cross-shore profile locations (95% confidence), with south and north shores respectively exhibiting falling and rising beach levels. South to north sediment transport was revealed by volumetric variation (r = 0.83), and longshore sediment distribution (r = 0.91). North Beach level variations lagged behind South Beach by one-year (r = 0.85). A reduction in high wind speed frequency, coincidental to spring tides, was correlated with falling South Beach levels (r = 0.87) and rising North Beach levels (r = −0.92). Heavily refracted Atlantic swells also have contrasting effects on these systems. Multiple regression models applied to beach level change for both systems showed high correlation (R² = 0.93 and 0.85 respectively), suggesting that swell wave period and strong north-westerly winds that occur during high spring tides had cumulative effects. Furthermore, variations in the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) index were correlated to cumulative changes in mean sea level, wind wave height and south-westerly winds (R² = 0.75). While NAO variations were linked to variations in South Beach morphology, it was insignificant on North Beach (r = −0.72 and −0.14 respectively). Cross-correlation analyses showed that North Beach morphological changes lagged behind NAO Index variation by one-year with much improved correlation (r = 0.77). A similar scenario existed when comparing Mean Sea level and beach level differences (r = −0.54 and −0.32 respectively). Similar behaviour should be exhibited at other worldwide embayments, and it is suggested that this work is repeated to establish specific responses, to will underpin intervention or no active intervention strategies.     

Beach–dune interactions on the dry–temperate Danube delta coast

Beach–dune seasonal elevation changes, aeolian sand transport measurements, bathymetric surveys and shoreline evolution assessments were used to investigate annual and seasonal patterns of dune development on Sfântu Gheorghe beach, the Danube delta coast, from 1997 to 2004. Dune volume increased consistently (1.96 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1 to 5.1 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1) over this 7-year period with higher rates in the southward (downdrift) direction. Dune aggradation is periodically limited by storms, each of which marks a new evolutionary phase of the beach–dune system. As a consequence of the variable beach morphology and vegetation density during a year, foredune growth occurs during the April–December interval while between December and April a slightly erosive tendency is present. The pattern of erosion and deposition shown by the topographical surveys is in good agreement with the sand transport measurements and demonstrates the presence of a vigorous sand flux over the foredunes which is 20–50% smaller than on the beach. This high sand flux, due to low precipitation and sparse vegetation cover, creates an aerodynamically efficient morphology on the seaward dune slope. The seaward dune face accretes during low to medium onshore winds (5.5–12 m s^− 1) and erodes during high winds (> 12 m s^− 1).     

砂质海滩地形动力分类研究进展

海滩状态是一个地形与水动力相互作用的三维地形动力问题.国外对海滩状态的地形动力分类已开展了大量卓有成效的研究工作,既包括波控、小潮、开阔海岸海滩状态的研究,也包括波控、不同潮差海岸海滩类型的研究和岬间海岸海滩类型的研究.文中回顾并概括了自20世纪70年代至今国外在砂质海滩地形动力分类方面代表性的研究工作,这些对于我国的...     

开都河流域上下游过去50 a气温降水变化特征分析

利用开都河流域上下游4个气象台站（上游巴音布鲁克,下游焉耆、和静、和硕）1960-2009年的气温、降水资料,采用趋势分析与距平等统计方法,分析了近50 a来开都河流域的主要气象要素变化特征。研究发现：（1）1960-2009年开都河流域上下游年平均气温均呈明显上升趋势,增长强度分别为0.27 ℃/10 a和0.22 ℃/10 a。2000年后气温升高尤其显著,上游和下游的气温分别较50 a平均水平偏高0.97 ℃和0.69 ℃。该流域年最高温没有明显增加,而上下游年最低气温分别上升0.41 ℃/10 a和0.61 ℃/10 a,并与年平均气温有较好的相关性。通过对不同年代际各月气温的分析,发现该地区气温季节性特征在过去50 a发生了明显的变化。主要表现为冬季气温总体上升,夏季气温相对稳定,冬季与夏季温差逐渐减小,季节性呈变弱趋势。上游年代际间气温季节变化较下游更明显;（2）开都河流域降水主要集中在夏季,近50 a上下游降水量均呈增加趋势且上游达显著水平。上下游在降水分布及变化特征上有较大差异,上游年平均降水总量（273 mm）明显高于下游（77 mm）,且上游降水量增加强度（9.13 mm/10 a）高于下游（5.34 mm/10 a）。降水量年代际之间有一定差异,降水波动主要是在夏季,上游降水量的波动性大于下游。     

Post-Chippewa oxygen isotope record from Cowles Bog, southern Lake Michigan basin

Previous studies of sediments and molluscs recovered from vibracores at Cowles Bog, a fen located in the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, along the south shore of Lake Michigan, reveal long and short term water level fluctuations during the last 6000 years. Low water events are indicated by zones of organic detritus, in which occasionally, iron oxide and calcium carbonate nodules, as well as selenite crystals have been precipitated. Oxygen isotope data from aragonitic shells of the gastropod Amnicola limosa (Say) collected from a sediment core provide a record of Middle to Late Holocene environmental changes for the fen. These data are in good agreement with previous interpretations of water level fluctuations based on changes in lithology and molluscan faunal abundance and composition. Below 366 cm the molluscan record is either absent or represented by shell fragments. The condition of shells in this interval suggests that the molluscs may have been exposed to subaerial weathering and reworking of older Holocene lake sediments, possibly during the low water Chippewa phase in the Lake Michigan basin (10000 YBP to 6000 YBP). Above 366 cm the core is characterized by a well preserved molluscan fauna. Relatively light isotopic values for the interval between 366 cm to 300 cm correlate with the transition from non-fossiliferous sands, peat and diamict to silty marl and calcareous sand, with a molluscan fauna dominated by taxa associated with permanent water bodies. The event producing these alterations, the Nipissing Transgression, marks a change from subaerial to permanent lacustrine conditions that were not characterized by high net evaporation. Evidence for another series of environmental changes occurs between 284 cm and 198 cm. This evidence includes the: (1) appearance of aquatic molluscs at 280 cm that are associated with water bodies subject to significant seasonal water level changes; (2) intermittent accumulations of iron oxide nodules, calcium carbonate nodules, and organic layers interbedded with crudely horizontal layers of fine, calcareous, sand, suggesting periodic water level oscillations; (3) onset of major excursions in the oxygen isotopic values between 260 cm to 198 cm. Relatively high ¹⁸O (PDB) values, possibly indicating evaporative enrichment of the water, correlate with a prominent shell debris layer at a depth of about 235 cm. Taken together, this evidence suggests that the core site was in the process of becoming isolated from Lake Michigan. This isolation occurred during a series of low water events during the later part of the Nipissing Transgression.     

The coast evolution and regulation in Wanquan River Estuary, Hainan Island

In this paper, sediment samples were collected along the Wanquan beaches and sieved in the laboratory in order to obtain the grain size distributions and associated parameters, i.e. mean grain size, sorting coefficient and skewness. Furthermore, we have calculated the longshore drift sediment transport rates and equilibrium cross-sectional areas of the entrance channel by using the method of sedimentary dynamics. The results indicate that the longshore drift sediment transport is dominated by waves with a direction from south to north, which result in rapid changes of the entrance channel. Therefore, some suggestions were proposed for improving the water quality and restoring the ecosystem of estuary. The engineering method includes increasing the sea-route of entrance channel, tidal prism and water exchanges in Shamei Lagoon.     

海南岛万泉河口海岸动态及其整治对策

In this paper, sediment samples were collected along the Wanquan beaches and sieved in the laboratory in order to obtain the grain size distributions and associated parameters, i.e. mean grain size,sorting coefficient and skewness. Furthermore, we have calculated the longshore drift sediment transport rates and equilibrium cross-sectional areas of the entrance channel by using the method of sedimentary dynamics. The results indicate that the longshore drift sediment transport is dominated by waves with a direction from south to north, which result in rapid changes of the entrance channel.Therefore, some suggestions were proposed for improving the water quality and restoring the ecosystem of estuary. The engineering method includes increasing the sea-route of entrance channel,tidal prism and water exchanges in Shamei Lagoon.     

The configuration of equilibrium beach profile in South China

To understand the evolution and stability of beaches, prediction of the equilibrium beach profile (EBP) is theoretically and practically important. In the present paper, a new equation, h = Ae^Bx + C is developed to predict the change in beach profile for sections above the water level and the adjacent nearshore portions. Moreover, fractal analysis is applied to predict types of EBP for the first time using the field data collected from Liao Zuikou and Nanwan beaches, South China. Three types of EBP termed Upward-concave EBP (U-EBP), Downward-concave EBP (D-EBP) and Medium-characteristic EBP (M-EBP), are given for the studied region of South China.     

基于熵测度方法的旅游季节性研究

针对旅游季节性研究缺乏深入细致的长期纵向跟踪研究和测度方法众多问题,论文采用国内旅游学者尚未使用过的熵测度方法,以黄山风景区连续10 a的日接待数据为基准,深入剖析周、月、年度多个层面的季节性,结果表明：① 熵冗余指数测度旅游的年、月、周季节性具有一定的简洁性优势,并且其组合方法具有较强的政策指导意义。采用月度数据计算的熵冗余指数与基尼系数、季节强度指数具有同样的功效,其两两相关性达0.968以上;另外,利用日数据计算的月和周熵冗余指数及与其他指数的组合方法,能够判识各月、各周的季节性变动,具有微观的政策指导意义。② 熵分解方法既可以分析历年的季节性趋势,又可以观察出季节性变动趋势的内在根源。根据熵分解结果,黄山风景区季节性变动总体趋缓,月际和周际的季节性波动减弱,但月内周内的不均衡性反而增强。根据案例分析结果,将熵测度方法用于旅游季节性研究,很大程度上完善了旅游季节性研究的理论内涵和测度方法,更为重要的是提升了旅游季节性研究的政策指导作用。     

FORESHORE DEPOSITIONAL PATTERNS ALONG THE RHODE ISLAND SOUTHSHORE

An application of polynomial curve fitting to sediment cumulative frequency distributions is presented to delineate the foreshore depositional patterns along the barrier beaches of the Rhode Island southshore. The analysis is based on 92 sampled stations where data for beach geometry, tidal stage, and sediment size were collected. Using the size-frequency classes obtained from sieving the foreshore sediment samples at 0.25 O intervals and fitting third-degree polynomial equations to these data, over 94% of the variation within the sediment cumulative frequency distributions is explained. The four curve coefficients (a, b, c, d) derived from the predicted third-degree equation are used in a discriminant function analysis to test the relationship between the curve shape and sediment source. Comparison of the discriminant scores with the respective station locations suggests that a series of Pleistocene headlands which occur as discrete points along the beach are serving as independent sources of sediment for the system.     

A rationale for beach selection by the public on the coast of Wales, UK

Questionnaires were completed by 2306 beach users at 19 Welsh beaches with respect to beach selection parameters. The modal group of respondents was female aged 30–39. Beach choice was primarily determined by clean litter-free sand and seawater, followed by safety. Refreshment facilities and beach awards were deemed minor considerations by the public when choosing a beach to visit. Approximately 58 per cent of respondents were aware of beach award and rating schemes. Of coastal visitors interviewed for this paper, 67 per cent rated a beach as 'important' or 'very important' to their holiday, with just 2 per cent replying that they were unimportant.