砂质海岸近岸地形动力过程研究

介绍了砂质海岸近岸地形动力过程的时空多尺度特征及其复杂性,概述了国内外在近岸表面波变形数学模型、长重力波、近岸环流和海滩-碎波带地形研究方面的进展,并简介了笔者等在海滩中、小尺度地形动力过程和海岸长期变化方面的一些研究实例,最后概括了未来需优先探索的地形动力学问题和研究策略.     

基于地貌动力学的雷州半岛海滩状态分类研究

海滩地貌动力学为理解海滩形态和海岸动力环境提供了理论框架,在海滩的保护与开发中有重要的指导意义。基于地质背景、海滩地貌形态、海滩沉积物和海洋动力要素选取7个可以量化的海滩特征指标,采用聚类分析对雷州半岛23个海滩进行分类和地貌动力特征识别,针对海滩状态分类模型Ω-RTR在雷州半岛复杂多变海岸线环境下的适用性进行了分析,结果表明：① 雷州半岛海滩可以分为六类：反射组、低潮阶地/反射组（有裂流）、沙坝-槽谷/中间状态组、沙坝消散组、超消散组和低潮阶地/反射组（无裂流）;② 波浪、潮汐、沉积物特征以及海岸地质构造背景等对雷州半岛海滩状态均有不同程度的影响,在不同岸段各要素的影响各异。地质背景是海滩状态分类不可忽视的因素。③ 由于Ω-RTR模型在判别海滩状态时更侧重于动力和沉积因素,分类结果与聚类分析结果稍有差异,但总体上可以有效区分海滩状态类型,是理解海滩动力地貌系统有效手段。     

波浪海滩沙丘相互作用模式研究述评

波浪-海滩-沙丘相互作用模式是对海岸沙丘形成与演化机理的宏观解析,是了解和认识海岸沙丘形态、类型与规模等的区域差异的基本途径,与海岸沙丘表面风沙流过程研究一样是研究海岸风沙问题不可或缺的重要方面。在对20世纪80年代以来国内外关于波浪-海滩-沙丘间相互作用模式研究历程回顾的基础上,重点总结和概述了国外所提出的波浪-海滩-沙丘间相互作用模式,包括小尺度的波浪-海滩-沙丘相互作用模式、中尺度的波浪-海滩-沙丘相互作用模式等,并展望了未来我国波浪-海滩-沙丘相互作用模式研究的基本方向与主要内容。     

砂质海岸侵蚀研究进展

地形动力学方法已成为国外海岸地形动力过程研究的主要方法,国内仍多采用传统地理学的定性、半定量的研究方法,在海岸地形和水动力之间耦合机制方面所做的研究相对较少,这是国内砂质海岸侵蚀研究需加强之处.文中首先回顾了国内外砂质海岸侵蚀的研究历程,然后从海岸地形动力过程入手,从小、中、大3个尺度介绍了国、内外砂质海岸侵蚀的研究状况.     

海平面上升与海滩侵蚀

世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。     

海南岛石梅湾海岸动力地貌研究

在研究了海南岛石梅湾风、浪、流等动力条件的基础上,指出了石梅湾的海滩与海岸是海洋动力与沉积物相互适应的产物,目前已达动态平衡.风浪作用对海滩发育有重要影响,风暴剖面与涌浪剖面的交替具有重要意义.而石梅湾海滩韵律地形的沿岸移动是局部海滩严重侵蚀的真正原因,海面上升仅会导致普遍意义的海滩侵蚀.人类活动对石梅湾海滩的演变有重要意义.     

美国海滩养护与海滩经济对中国 滨海旅游产业发展的启示

根据美国最新的海滩经济和旅游研究的数据资料,分析了其海滩养护的概况、管理、对滨海旅游经济增长的贡献和当前面临的困境,对照分析了中国滨海旅游产业发展所面临的海岸侵蚀加剧、海滩环境污染、海滩养护投入力度不够、政府职能分散、旅游开发破坏公众利益等一系列问题,借鉴美国海滩旅游开发经验并结合中国实际情况,分别从海滩养护、海滩开发研究与评估、政府管理、动态监测几个层面提出中国未来海滩旅游开发的建议。     

海平面上升与滩滩侵蚀

世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷，逐渐上升的海平面，降低了海流坡降而减少了入海沙量，因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏，海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大，这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动，如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩     

海南岛现代风成岩(沙丘岩)的形成及其地貌意义

本文从沉积物结构、沉积结构特征以及胶结物类型等方面区别海岸沙丘岩、沙堤岩和海滩岩,并探讨了沙丘岩的形成机制及环境意义。     

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征

海南岛东部铜鼓岭岬角南、北两侧的淇水湾和月亮湾海岸海滩均为中粗砂海滩,其中值粒径和平均粒径主要分布在0~2 Ф之间,反映了海南岛东部动力作用整体较强。月亮湾近岸20 m水深处沉积物的中值粒径主要分布在-1~-3 Ф之间,主要以砾石为主;10~20 m水深处沉积物中值粒径分布在-1~0 Ф之间,以极粗砂为主;铜鼓岭南部淇水湾,以粗砂为主,部分区域出现细砂,反映海滩受到的动力条件不如北部月亮湾海岸海滩显著。造成这种差异的主要原因是铜鼓岭岬角对东北向(主风向)风浪的阻挡和岬角南部港湾有宽广的珊瑚礁平台对波浪的消能。而且,淇水湾海岸北部和南部也有差异,北部珊瑚礁平台受到破坏,对波浪的消浪较弱,从而表现同一海滩滩面物质分布的南北差异。     

基于地形动力学的海滩裂流安全性评价 ——以三亚大东海为例

文章基于海滩地形动力学模型建立了海滩安全性评价方法,认为低潮沙坝/裂流海滩类和沙坝类海滩出现裂流概率最大,沙坝消散类和有裂流的低潮台地类海滩裂流风险中等,没有裂流的低潮台地海滩、没有沙坝的消散海滩、超消散型、完全反射型海滩裂流风险很小。以三亚大东海为例,利用该评价方法分析了海滩溺水事故频发的原因,结果显示：1）该海滩状态以沙坝型和低潮沙坝/裂流海滩型为主,属于高风险海滩,此结论与当地救生实践吻合;2）该海滩溺水事故发生的根本原因为裂流危险性高,故容易发生溺水事故。     

Morphodynamic response of a meso- to macro-tidal intermediate beach based on a long-term data set

Four years of bi-monthly topographic surveys have been conducted on a 350 m stretch of the meso- to macro-tidal Truc Vert beach, France. Here we study the dynamics of both the inner bar and the upper part of the beach where a berm can develop in the presence of fair weather conditions. For the inner bar, the occurrences of the different states within the intermediate classification, following that of Wright and Short (Wright, L.D., Short, A.D. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56, 93–118), are presented and compared to other sites in both micro- and meso-tidal environments. The results show a similar frequency of occurrence of the Transverse Bar and Rip (TBR) state, while the more dissipative states, Rhythmic Bar and Beach (RBB) and Longshore Bar and Trough (LBT), are less regularly observed despite the high wave energy levels. The LBT and RBB states are also observed in the presence of fair weather conditions and the TBR state can persist during very energetic events. Similar results are also observed with the upper beach dynamics. Very energetic events are not necessarily associated with erosion while and low-energy events are not necessarily accompanied by accretion. The conditions given here indicate, that berm development occurs preferentially when the beach morphology exhibits a TBR or a LTT state. Apart from the control exerted by offshore wave conditions, the beach state and berm development patterns exhibited by Truc Vert beach are also discussed within the framework of possible morphological (morphodynamic) feedback and of the influence of the meso- to macrotidal range which modulates the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.     

Beach morphodynamic characteristics and classifications on the straight coastal sectors in the west Guangdong

Journal of Geographical Sciences - Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies. This paper carried out beach...     

Cyclic and Seasonal Beach Response: A Comparison of Oceanside and Bayside Beaches

This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches.

Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes.     

TRANSFORMATION PATTERNS OF SUBAERIAL MICRO-TIDAL BEACHES

Seven subaerial, low energy beaches in the SE Mediterranean were surveyed biweekly for 13 months. Beach level data were computer-processed and plotted as time-series profile diagrams that differentiated the subaerial beach into three basic subenvironments: backshore, berm, and swash-zone. Heterogeneous seasonal trends in beach sand budget, erosion/accretion patterns, occurrence of ridges and berm-crests, and in pollution by seaborne tar were observed. The profile stations also showed very different degrees of seasonality, although located along similar beaches. Local beachrock protection, when evident, effectively masked seasonality by significantly lowering beach dynamics. Biweekly, seasonal, and annual fluctuations of the beach sand-budget were computed. Average annual net sand flux at the seven beaches was 66 m³/m of beach front, though wide variations occurred. Annual changes in the sand budget along the study area exceeded volumetric changes within the profile, indicating longshore sand transfer. Synchronism of beach behavior prevailed only at the seasonal level. However, intra-seasonal fluctuations for the different profile stations were out of phase, indicating poor synchronism of beach response due to longshore movement of rhythmic topography. Profile changes were thus often unrelated to concomitant wave-climate changes. The overall heterogeneous beach response was in sharp contrast to the identical wave climate, similar bathymetry, and sedimentology of the studied beaches.     

Planview Geometry and morphological characteristics of pocket beaches on the Catalan coast (Spain)

Coastal planform studies are a relevant initial stage before launching detailed dynamic field experiments. The aim of this study is to define the planform characteristics of 72 Catalan pocket beaches, natural and man-made, and to determine their sheltering effect, embaymentization and their status of equilibrium. Planform measurements were performed on SIGPAC, 1:5000 orthophoto sets and wave climate was provided by Puertos del Estado (Wana model). Planform parameters were applied and coastal planview indexes were determined.The study shows that the Catalan pocket beaches display a wide range of indentation, suggesting that no single structural, tectonic or morphological control dominates their planform. The man-made pocket beaches typically display indentations which are smaller than those shown by natural pocket beaches. Headland spacing and beach area are positively correlated. The more indented bays are, the shorter their beaches become. Low-indented pocket beaches are the widest and the longest ones.Deep indentation contributes towards beach protection and energy dissipation which counteracts rip efficiency and inhibits the formation of mega-rips. Pocket beaches often show gradual and moderate alongshore changes in texture and beach morphology. One third of the Catalan pocket beaches are “sediment starved”, i.e., 60% and more of their embayed shorelines are deprived of beach sediments. Examination of the status of equilibrium demonstrates that most of the Catalan pocket beaches are in an unstable mode, with indentation ratios that are unrelated to the wave obliquity.     

Effects of fetch and surface texture on aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches

Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit.     

Some aspects of beach use in the Perth metropolitan area

The recreational use of metropolitan beaches is an important but neglected aspect of recreational research in Australia. This paper discusses the results of a survey of beach use in the Perth metropolitan area and also examines travel patterns associated with beach usage. The most popular beaches draw people from throughout the metropolitan area and many people are prepared to travel relatively long distances to visit a particular beach. However, although a distance‐decay effect is apparent, there is little relationship between the pattern of trip generation in Perth and either demographic or status differences between suburbs. It is suggested that further research should focus on temporal aspects of beach usage.     

A rationale for beach selection by the public on the coast of Wales, UK

Questionnaires were completed by 2306 beach users at 19 Welsh beaches with respect to beach selection parameters. The modal group of respondents was female aged 30–39. Beach choice was primarily determined by clean litter-free sand and seawater, followed by safety. Refreshment facilities and beach awards were deemed minor considerations by the public when choosing a beach to visit. Approximately 58 per cent of respondents were aware of beach award and rating schemes. Of coastal visitors interviewed for this paper, 67 per cent rated a beach as 'important' or 'very important' to their holiday, with just 2 per cent replying that they were unimportant.