我国沿海地区重特大海洋动力灾害应对策略研究

我国沿海地区是极端天气和气候事件易发频发区,也是重要的人口和经济聚集地。在全球气候变化背景下,风暴潮、海浪、海冰和海啸等海洋动力灾害的形成机理、发生规律、时空特征、损失程度呈现出新的特点,重特大海洋动力灾害对我国沿海地区造成的威胁不容忽视。文章阐述海洋动力灾害时空分布特征,在分析我国沿海地区应对海洋动力灾害现状基础上,提出我国沿海地区应对重特大海洋动力灾害的对策与建议:建议开展重特大海洋动力灾害防御相关立法研究,制订国家层面应对重特大海洋动力灾害专项应急预案,建立健全重特大海洋动力灾害保险风险补偿机制以及提升重特大海洋动力灾害科技支撑能力。     

Numerical Modeling of a Round Jet Discharged into Random Waves

Coastal disposal of waste water can be idealized as the problem of a jet under random waves. Understanding of this phenomenon is important for engineering design and environmental impact assessment. The present study aims to simulate such phenomenon by using a 3D numerical model based on the solution of the spatially filtered and σ-transformed Navier–Stokes equations with dynamic sub-grid scale model of turbulence. The numerical solution procedures are split into three steps: advection, diffusion and pressure propagation, and a Lagrange–Euler method is used to track the free surface. Cases of vertical jet in stagnant water, pure random waves and vertical jet in random waves are simulated with the same grid system for comparative study. Different methods of generating jet inflow turbulence have been tested and the method of jet azimuthal modes is found to be the optimum. The numerical results reproduce the distinct characteristics of jet in waves, including faster decay of centerline velocity, wider lateral spreading and the occurrence of wave tractive mechanism.     

四叉树网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型研究

波浪是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。考虑到近岸地形复杂、波浪演化显著的特点,建立了四叉树网格体系下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型,采用有限体积法对模型进行数值离散,应用GPBiCG(m, n)算法求解离散后的控制方程。模型中根据波浪波长布局计算网格,生成多层次四叉树网格,对复杂计算域有较好的适应性,并且在离散和方程求解中无需引入形函数、不产生复杂的交叉项,节约了存储空间和计算时间。将模型成功应用于物理模型实验及Acapulco海湾的波浪场数值模拟,结果表明该模型能够准确、高效地模拟近岸波浪场,可为近岸波浪场的模拟提供一定的理论和技术支持。     

非结构化网格下椭圆型缓坡方程的数值求解

椭圆型缓坡方程是一种用线性波浪理论研究近岸波浪传播变形的有效波浪数学模型。非结构化网格下的有限容积法不仅对复杂边界的适应性好,还能保证迭代求解过程的守恒性。建立了非结构化网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型。在模型中采用非结构化网格下的有限容积法对椭圆型缓坡方程进行了数值离散,结合GPBiCG(m,n)算法求解离散方程。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可有效地用于模拟近岸缓坡区域复杂边界下波浪的传播。     

Nonlinear Dynamic Behaviors of A Floating Structure in Focused Waves

Floating structures are commonly seen in coastal and offshore engineering. They are often subjected to extreme waves and, therefore, their nonlinear dynamic behaviors are of great concern. In this paper, an in-house CFD code is developed to investigate the accurate prediction of nonlinear dynamic behaviors of a two-dimensional (2-D) box-shaped floating structure in focused waves. Computations are performed by an enhanced Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP)-based Cartesian grid model, in which a more accurate VOF (Volume of Fluid) method, the THINC/SW scheme (THINC: tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing; SW: Slope Weighting), is used for interface capturing. A focusing wave theory is used for the focused wave generation. The wave component of constant steepness is chosen. Comparisons between predictions and physical measurements show good agreement including body motions and free surface profiles. Although the overall agreement is good, some discrepancies are observed for impact pressure on the superstructure due to water on deck. The effect of grid resolution on the results is checked. With a fine grid, no obvious improvement is seen in the global body motions and impact pressures due to water on deck. It is concluded that highly nonlinear phenomena, such as distorted free surface, large-amplitude body motions, and violent impact flow, have been predicted successfully.     

Analysis of hydrodynamic behavior of a submersible net cage and mooring system in waves and current

Failure of net cage and mooring system is of great concern to the marine aquaculture industry. To avoid the structure failure in storm waves and current during typhoon events, net cage can submerge below the water surface in practice. A submersible net cage and mooring system is analyzed by numerical simulation and physical model test. The numerical model is established based on the lumped mass method and principle of rigid body kinematics. A series of physical model tests are conducted to validate the numerical model of single net cage and grid mooring system in waves and current. Numerical results correspond well with data obtained from physical model test. The results indicate that when net cage is submerged below the water surface, the deformation of net cage in waves can be improved significantly, and the tension force on the anchor line, bridle line and grid line will decrease significantly. However, the tension force on the buoy line in the submergence condition is larger than that in the floating condition. Different relative submergence ratios are also considered in our numerical simulation, and a relative submergence ratio equal to 0.1 is suggested here. The tension reduction ratio (56%) for the four-cage system is larger than that for the single-cage (52%) and double-cage systems (44%).     

Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

深圳湾人造沙滩选址和修复方案

深圳湾经过近三十年的围填海活动,沿岸动力条件发生较大变化,如今自然状态下难以发育沙滩。从构建高品质游憩空间、防护海岸和提升旅游开发价值来看,沙滩是深圳湾急需的资源。为了加强人和海洋的联系、激发深圳湾的活力,建立城市自然缓冲区、化解极端风暴的威胁,以此达到防护海岸和满足居民休闲游赏需求的目的,本研究以近岸海洋要素的自然属性为主,海洋开发活动等社会属性为辅进行综合分析,并辅以数值模型进行验证,在深圳湾内选择适宜开展沙滩修复的海岸。沙滩修复选址时考虑了波浪、潮流、地形、地貌、沉积物等近岸海洋要素;数值模型包括潮流场模型、波浪模型和沙滩长期的平面演化模型。本研究案例对岸线动态变迁较大,自然状态难以发育沙滩的海岸的人造沙滩选址和设计方案提供示范与借鉴。     

基于无机氮浓度响应系数的厦门湾沿岸污水处理厂排放口选址优化

基于美国普林斯顿大学的河口、陆架和海洋模式(ECOM),建立了厦门海域三维变边界的物质输运模型,模拟了厦门海域污水处理厂尾水排放口附近无机氮的响应系数场.结果表明,厦门市尾水排放口中,石渭头排放口响应系数明显小于其他排放口,其排放口中心点的响应系数仅为其他排放口的0.08～0.50;其次是澳头、海沧和筼筜排放口;而杏林、同安、集美以及翔安排放口的响应系数相对较大,说明该区域水动力条件较弱,污染物扩散缓慢,不是理想的排放口.建议将杏林排放口优化调整至海沧排放口,集美、同安、翔安排放口优化调整至澳头排放口进行排放.该研究可为厦门海域尾水排放口选址优化提供科学依据,为厦门海域入海污染物总量控制和海洋环境管理提供参考价值.     

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions.     

波浪作用下中上层浮鱼礁动力响应数值模型建立方法

人工浮鱼礁型式多样,适应水深范围广,优化锚泊方式可规模化建设浮鱼礁群,是海洋中上层生境构建的重要手段。中上层浮鱼礁投放于近海,属于海岸工程范畴,抗浪性能是其结构设计的关键。根据有限单元法和集中质量点法,详细阐述和推导了中上层浮鱼礁各构成组件连接位置处点或单元的相互耦合受力和运动处理方法,以及浮鱼礁出水条件的判别方法和水质点速度、加速度的修正方法。建立的波浪作用下三维浮鱼礁动力响应数值模型与其在波浪水槽中的物理模型试验对比,验证了数值模型的正确性。最后建立了一种新型锚泊方式的浮鱼礁动力响应数值模型,分析了浮鱼礁摆动角度、锚绳拉力、网衣系缚点总拉力的历时变化。研究结果可为中上层浮鱼礁优化结构形状和搭配浮体、配重提供判断依据。     

Investigation of the generation and propagation of low frequency internal waves: A case study for the east coast of India

SAR (Synthetic Aperture Radar) images in the northwest Bay of Bengal indicate the existence of internal waves and their occurrence and intensity is topography dependent as indicated by in-situ data and satellite information. To complement and comprehend the observations, a three-dimensional Princeton Ocean Model is applied to study the generation and propagation of internal waves. The model domain is configured with a variable curvilinear grid and the input fields comprise bathymetry, initial temperature and salinity, wind stress, air-sea heat flux and tidal information. The numerical investigation indicated a predominant activity of internal waves in the north, and the rationale is three-fold. The first one could be the stable stratification due to fresh water discharge from head-bay major river system, secondly, the significant magnitude/range of the tides and finally, the bathymetry in the coastal waters off Paradip is about 12% shallower compared to that of Visakhapatnam and further south. The cumulative effect of these causes the predominance of internal waves in the north. The core of the energy is essentially in the low-frequency range and the model is able to simulate semi-diurnal and diurnal components reasonably well up to 6 h frequency (0.162 cph).     

三亚湾海岸动力演变的数值模拟研究

近年来,海岸侵蚀呈现不断加剧的趋势,给沿海地区经济社会的发展造成了极大危害。关于三亚湾海岸侵蚀过程及其动力学研究多停留在定性或半定量阶段。从海岸动力地貌学角度出发,基于沉积物迁移理论,利用数值模拟方法,定量研究了三亚湾海岸在波浪和潮流作用下的动力演变过程。计算结果重现了海水波浪的传播形态及动态特征:涨潮时,波高极值相对较大,水位随之升高,波动现象明显,波动形态复杂;落潮时,波高极值相对减小,水位也随之降低,海面相对较平静,波形态在离岸区域较单一,仅在近岸区域相对多样化。同时,数值模拟结果也很好地显示了三亚湾岸线附近的沉积或侵蚀过程特征:三亚湾西段海洋动力条件较强,沉积或侵蚀现象明显,沉积/侵蚀能力由三亚湾西段逐渐向东段减小。此外,以海洋动力学机制为基础,定量模拟了三亚湾海岸侵蚀与演变物理过程,为该地区海岸开发利用、海岸环境保护提供科学依据。     

Numerical Modeling of Water Wave Interaction with A Soft Mud Bed

A vertical 2-D numerical model is presented for simulating the interaction between water waves and a soft mud bed. Taking into aceotmt nonlinear theology, a semi-empirical theological model is applied to this water-mud model, reflecting the combined visco-elasto-plastic properties of soft mud under such oscillatory external forces as water waves. In order to increase the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the inter-surface, a logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes.     

我国海洋动力灾害研究进展与展望

海洋动力灾害(包括灾害性海浪、风暴潮、海冰、海啸等)是对我国沿海地区造成破坏和损失最大的自然灾害之一。开展海洋动力灾害研究具有重要意义和迫切的国家需求。本文回顾我国建国以来在海洋动力灾害研究方向的主要进展,重点针对近年来我国在海洋动力灾害数值模拟预报以及灾害风险评估等方面的进展进行综述,并在此基础上提出未来的发展展望,希望给海洋防灾减灾科研工作者提供参考。     

Linear irregular wave generation in a numerical wave tank

In the design of any floating or fixed marine structure, it is vital to test models in order to understand the fluid/structure interaction involved. A relatively inexpensive method, compared to physical model testing, of achieving this is to numerically model the structure and the wave conditions in a numerical wave tank. In this paper, a methodology for accurately replicating measured ocean waves in a numerical model at full scale is detailed. A Fourier analysis of the measured record allows the wave to be defined as a summation of linear waves and, therefore, Airy's linear wave theory may be used to input the wave elevation and associated water particle velocities. Furthermore, a structure is introduced into the model to display the ability of the model to accurately predict wave–structure interaction. A case study of three individual measured waves, which are recorded at the Atlantic marine energy test site, off the west coast of Ireland, is also presented. The accuracy of the model to replicate the measured waves and perform wave–structure interaction is found to be very high. Additionally, the absolute water particle velocity profile below the wave from the numerical model is compared to a filtered analytical approximation of the measured wave at a number of time-steps and is in very good agreement.     

Comparisons of internal solitary wave and surface wave actions on marine structures and their responses

In this paper, a time-domain numerical model is established for computing the action of internal solitary wave on marine structures and structure motion responses. For a cylindrical structure, its side and bottom are discretized by pole and surface elements, respectively. The drag and inertial forces in the perpendicular direction of the structure are computed by the Morison equation from the pole elements, and the Froude–Krylov force in the axial direction of the structure due to internal wave motion is computed by integration of the dynamic pressure over the surface elements. The catenary theory is used to analyze the reaction force due to mooring lines, and the motion equation of the marine structure is solved by the fourth-order Runge–Kutta method in the time domain. The model is used to calculate the interaction of the internal solitary wave with a Spar platform with mooring system, and the surface wave action with the platform has also been computed by a frequency-domain boundary element method for comparison. Through the comparison based on a practical internal wave and surface wave states, it can be concluded that the internal wave force on the structure is only 9% of the one due to surface waves. However, the motion response due to the internal wave is much greater than the one due to the surface waves. It shows that the low-frequency effect of internal solitary waves is a great threat to the safety of marine structures.     

Wave loads on a coastal bridge deck and the role of entrapped air

Wave loading on a coastal bridge deck due to nonlinear waves during a storm, where air may be fully or partially trapped between the girders, is studied through an extensive set of laboratory experiments. Wave cases tested cover a range of shallow-water to intermediate-water depth waves. A range of model elevations is tested to include conditions where the bridge may be partially inundated, to where the model is fully elevated above the still-water level (SWL). The model is constructed to include different percentages of air-relief openings, to capture a range of cases where no air can escape between the girders, to where all the air can escape and the wave can freely interact with the bottom of the bridge deck. Effects of the compressibility of entrapped air as well as the effects of the model scale are investigated through numerical calculations solving the compressible and incompressible Euler's equations, at both the model and prototype scales, by use of the open source CFD software, OpenFOAM. Along with coastal bridges, this research is applicable to other coastal and offshore structures, such as piers, submerged breakwaters and offshore platforms, in which wave loading or entrapped air is of concern.     

Numerical analysis on random wave-induced porous seabed response

Research on the response of random wave on offshore structures has received great deal of attention of many researchers and engineers in the design of marine structures. Most previous investigations have been limited to the regular waves. In this paper, based on Longuet–Higgins random wave theory and finite element method, a numerical model for random wave-induced seabed response is established. The seabed is treated as poroelastic medium and characterized by Biot’s partly dynamic equations (u–p model). The JONSWAP spectrum is adopted in Longuet–Higgins model, which is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. Based on the numerical results, the effects of random wave on seabed response are investigated by comparing with the corresponding Stokes wave and cnoidal wave. Then, a parametric study is conducted to examine the effect of wave and soil characteristic on the seabed.     

山东半岛一次强冷流降雪过程的中尺度特征分析

利用高空和地面的常规观测和天气加密观测资料,以及MM5V3.6中尺度数值模式系统的模拟结果,对2003年1月3~5日山东半岛北部地区发生的暴雪过程进行了中尺度特征研究。实况资料表明:在高空有利的大尺度环流形势控制下,不断入侵的冷空气作用下,受渤海暖海面的热力作用和山东半岛地形作用,产生了中尺度的海岸锋。在强冷平流、海岸锋锋生及半岛地形的摩擦抬升共同作用下,产生了这次强冷流降雪。海岸锋环流形成的对流云能引起降水量的局部增强。数值模拟结果表明:海岸锋生过程及其产生的沿岸辐合带是形成山东半岛冷流暴雪的主要原因,同时海岸锋同低层大气重力波耦合形成了海岸锋陷波。本文给出了山东半岛北岸海岸锋的概念模型。