On front slope stability of berm breakwaters

The short communication presents application of the conventional Van der Meer stability formula for low-crested breakwaters for the prediction of front slope erosion of statically stable berm breakwaters with relatively high berms. The method is verified (Burcharth, 2008) by comparison with the reshaping of a large Norwegian breakwater exposed to the North Sea waves. As a motivation for applying the Van der Meer formula a discussion of design parameters related to berm breakwater stability formulae is given. Comparisons of front erosion predicted by the use of the Van der Meer formula with model test results including tests presented in Sigurdarson and Van der Meer (2011) are discussed. A proposal is presented for performance of new model tests with the purpose of developing more accurate formulae for the prediction of front slope erosion as a function of front slope, relative berm height, relative berm width, method of armour stone placement, and hydraulic parameters. The formulae should cover the structure range from statically stable berm breakwaters to conventional double layer armoured breakwaters.     

Process based stability formulae for coastal structures made of geotextile sand containers

Geotextile Sand Containers (GSC) are increasingly used worldwide for shore protection structures such as seawalls, groins, breakwaters, revetments and artificial reefs. However, reliable design formulae for the hydraulic stability based on a good understanding of the processes involved in the wave-structure interactions are still needed.Although the effect of the deformations of the sand containers on the hydraulic stability is significant, no stability formula is available to account for those deformations and the associated processes leading to the observed failures. Therefore, based on the results of extensive experimental and numerical studies ([Recio J. 2008, Hydraulic Stability of Geotextile Sand Containers for Coastal Structures – Effect of Deformations and Stability Formulae – PhD Thesis, Leichtweiss Institute for Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources, www.digibib.tu-bs.de/?docid=00021899]), analytical stability formulae are developed that account for the effect of the deformations of the individual GSCs for sliding and overturning stability. The required drag, inertia and lift coefficients are determined experimentally from hydraulic model experiments specially designed for this purpose. Several types of GSC configurations which are representative for a wide range of GSC-structure types are investigated under wave action. Moreover, deformation factors to account for the deformation of the containers on the stability are analytically derived and implemented in the stability formulae.Finally, Stability formulae for each type of coastal structures made of geotextile sand containers such as breakwaters, revetments, sea walls, dune reinforcement and scour protection systems are proposed and recommendations are given with respect to the practical application of the proposed hydraulic stability formula, including their limitations.     

Shoreline response to multi-functional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modelling study

The results of a series of 2DH numerical and 3D scaled physical modelling tests indicate that processes governing shoreline response to submerged structures, such as artificial surfing reefs, are different from those associated with emergent offshore breakwaters. Unlike the case of emergent offshore breakwaters, where shoreline accretion (salient development) is expected under all structural/environmental conditions, the principal mode of shoreline response to submerged structures can vary between erosive and accretive, depending on the offshore distance to the structure. The predominant wave incidence angle and structure crest level also have important implications on the magnitude of shoreline response, but not on the mode of shoreline response (i.e. erosion vs. accretion). Based on the results obtained here, a predictive empirical relationship is proposed as a preliminary engineering tool to assess shoreline response to submerged structures.     

An investigation on the formation of submerged bar under surges in sandy coastal region

Cross-shore sediment transport rate exposed to waves is very important for coastal morphology,the design of marine structures such as seawalls,jetties,breakwaters etc,and the prevention of coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation.In the present study,the experiments on cross-shore sediment transport are carried out in a laboratory wave channel with initial beach slopes of 1/8,1/10 and 1/15.By using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepnesses generated by a pedal-type wave generator,the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials with medium diameters of d50=0.25,0.32,0.45,0.62 and 0.80 mm.The offshore bar geometric characteristics are the horizontal distances from the shoreline to the bar beginning(Xb),crest(Xt),and ending(Xs) points,the depth from the bar crest to the still water level(ht),and the bar volume(Vbar).The experimental results have indicated that when the deep-water steepness(H0/L0) increased,the net movement to seaside increased.With the increasing wave steepness,the bars moved to widen herewith the vertical distances from still water level to the bar beginning(Xb),crest(Xt) and ending(Xs) points and the horizontal distances from the coast line to the bar beginning,crest and ending points increased.It was also shown from experimental results that the horizontal distances from the bar beginning and ending points to the coast line increased with the decrease of the beach slope.The experimental results obtained from this study are compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.     

Numerical analysis of wave loads for coastal structure stability

The numerical model COBRAS-UC [Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., Guanche,R., Gonzalez-Ondina, J.M. (2008). Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering, Vol 55 (1), 47–62.] is used to carry out a two-dimensional analysis of wave induced loads on coastal structures. The model calculates pressure, forces and moments for two different cross-sections corresponding to a low-mound and a conventional rubble-mound breakwater with a crown-wall under regular and irregular incident wave conditions. Predicted results are compared with experimental information provided in Losada et al. [Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., Guanche,R., Gonzalez-Ondina, J.M. (2008). Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters. Coastal Engineering, Vol 55 (1), 47–62.] and Lara et al. [Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., Guanche, R. (2008). “Wave interaction with low mound breakwaters using a RANS model”. Ocean engineering (35), pp 1388–1400; doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2008.05.006.] on a 1:20 scale. Good agreement is found, and the differences between both typologies are explained in detail. Additionally, numerical results are also compared with several semi-empirical formulae recommended for design at both the 1:20 model scale and two prototype cross-sections. Results suggest that COBRAS-UC is able to provide realistic stability information that can be used to complete the approach based on currently existing methods and tools.     

A wave-flume study of scour at a pile breakwater: Solitary waves

Understanding the sediment transport and the resulting scour around coastal structures such as pile breakwaters under local extreme wave conditions is important for the foundation safety of various coastal structures. This study reports a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles. A wave blacking gate with a simple operation procedure in the experiment was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume. An underwater laser scanner and a point probe were used in combination to provide high-resolution data of the bed profile around the pile breakwater. Effects of incident wave height and local water depth on the maximum scour depth, the maximum deposition height and the total scour and deposition volumes were examined. An existing empirical formula describing the evolution of the scour at a single pile in current or waves was extended to describe the scour at the pile breakwater under the action of multiple solitary waves, and new empirical coefficients were obtained by fitting the formula to the new experimental data to estimate the equilibrium scour depth. It appears that the maximum scour depth and the total scour volume are two reliable quantities for validation of numerical models developed for the scour around pile breakwaters under highly nonlinear wave conditions.     

Modelling the effect of wave overtopping on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around shore-parallel breakwaters

Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.     

Wave Scattering by Double Slotted Barriers in A Steady Current： Experiments

The adoption of slotted breakwaters can be an ideal option in the protection of very large near-shore floating struc-trees that may extend offshore to a considerable water depth. In this paper, we experimently investigated the behaviour of wave transmission and reflection coefficients of double slotted barriers in the presence of a steady opposing current. The experimental results show that opposing currents have only minor effects on wave reflection, but can significantly reduce the wave transmission through double slotted barriers. The experimental results suggest that coastal currents should be taken into consideration for an economical design of slotted breakwaters.     

Longshore sediment transport estimation using a fuzzy inference system

Accurate prediction of longshore sediment transport in the nearshore zone is essential for control of shoreline erosion and beach evolution. In this paper, a hybrid Adaptive-Network-Based Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS), Fuzzy Inference System (FIS), CERC, Walton–Bruno (WB) and Van Rijn (VR) formulae are used to predict and model longshore sediment transport in the surf zone. The architecture of ANFIS consisted of three inputs (breaking wave height), (breaking angle), (wave period) and one output (longshore sediment transport rate). For statistical comparison of predicted and measured sediment transport, bias, root mean square error and scatter index are used. The longshore sediment transport rate (LSTR) and wave characteristics at a 4 km-long beach on the central west coast of India are used as case studies. The CERC, WB and VR methods are also applied to the same data. Results indicate that the errors of the ANFIS model in predicting wave parameters are less than those of the empirical formulas. The scatter index of the CERC, WB and VR methods in predicting LSTR is 51.9%, 27.9% and 22.5%, respectively, while the scatter index of the ANFIS model in the prediction of LSTR is 17.32%. A comparison of results reveals that the ANFIS model provides higher accuracy and reliability for LSTR estimation than the other techniques.     

Euler-Euler two-phase flow simulation of tunnel erosion beneath marine pipelines

In this study an Euler-Euler two-phase model was developed to investigate the tunnel erosion beneath a submarine pipeline exposed to unidirectional flow. Both of the fluid and sediment phases were described via the Navier-Stokes equations, i.e. the model was implemented using time-averaged continuity and momentum equations for the fluid and sediment phases and a modified k−ε turbulence closure for the fluid phase. The fluid and sediment phases were coupled by considering the drag and lift interaction forces. The model was employed to simulate the tunnel erosion around the pipeline laid on an erodible bed. Comparison between the numerical result and experimental measurement confirms that the numerical model successfully predicts the bed profile and velocity field during the tunnel erosion. It is evident that the sediments are transported as the sheet-flow mode in the tunnel erosion stage. Also the transport rate under the pipe increases rapidly at the early stage and then reduces gradually at the end of the tunnel erosion beneath pipelines.     

Hydrodynamic forces on concrete sea wall and breakwater during earthquakes: effects of bottom sediment layers and back-fill soil

The objective of this paper is to present the effect of sediment characteristics on the dynamic response of sea walls and breakwaters during earthquakes. A finite-difference method is used to calculate the earthquake-induced hydrodynamic pressures of seawater and the pore water in seabed sediment. The water-filled soil mixture is used to model sediment and back-fill soil. The dynamic response of a rigid coastal structure induced by constant ground acceleration is studied, using variable sediment depths and porosity. The dynamic characteristics of the water–embankment–sediment system are investigated, applying four earthquake-records as exciting forces. The result of a quay-walled caisson demonstrates the significance of the seismic-induced dynamic force and the seismic effects should be considered for the design of coastal structures in seismic zone. The damaged wharves of Taichung Port during Chi-Chi earthquake, 21 September 1999 is also reported in the paper.     

Current countermeasure of beach erosion control and its application in Taiwan

The shoreline of Taiwan is approximately 1100 km long, composed of sandy beach, rocky coast, and reef coast. Almost half of the shoreline has been protected by seawalls, which play an important role for coastal protection and prevent people and infrastructure from coastal hazard. Besides, offshore breakwaters and groynes are also built in the serious erosion coastal shores. All these hard engineering structures made our coastal land safety to some extent at last fifty years. However, until now, the hard engineering structures applied for shore protection do not always work well on all the coasts around Taiwan. Some coastal areas still get eroded seriously with structures being damaged. Furthermore in the recent years, people gradually value the shore protection from different viewpoints, like environment, recreation, and ecology. The objectives of the shore protection are diversified by these new demands.Therefore, the purpose of this study is to evaluate the strategy on how to conjoint soft solutions into the current hard engineering structures for beach erosion control throughout Taiwan coast. Meanwhile, this paper will also introduce environmentally, user-oriented, and technically sound creditable protection works to meet the new trends of shore protection. For application purpose, two local sites in the southwestern Taiwan coast are selected for field experimental study to integrate the proposed soft solution with hard shore protection system at present. Furthermore for coastal management purpose, this paper also collects and analyzes hydro-morphodynamic data around Taiwan in order to identify beach erosion mechanism. Lastly, the results are presented by database and geographic information system.     

非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙数值研究

本文用了一个可考虑相位差作用和波浪边界层非对称性的瞬态理论模型和一个两相紊流模型共同研究非对称歪斜波引起的片流输沙现象。为了解速度偏度和加速度偏度对输沙通量和输沙率的贡献，两相流模型为理论模型提供了必要的相位超前、瞬时侵蚀深度和边界层的发展过程。理论模型研究显示了由速度偏度和加速度偏度引起的向岸阶段和离岸阶段的泥沙运动非对称性，解释了净输沙的产生原因。在以往的非对称歪斜波片流输沙研究中，净输沙的产生主要被归结于相位差作用。本文的研究则表明了非对称的边界层发展所产生的净流量和动床面效应在净输沙产生过程中的比相位差作用更为重要。     

The use of grain size trend analysis in macrotidal areas with breakwaters: Implications of settling velocity and spatial sampling density

In a macrotidal environment with offshore breakwaters (Elmer, West Sussex) a new approach for the identification of the sediment transport pathways with grain size trend analysis (GSTA) was undertaken using statistical parameters (mean, sorting and skewness) directly derived from settling velocities distributions. The same samples were analysed with sieving (quarter- and half-phi resolution) and GSTA was performed again in order to directly compare the resultant sediment transport directions derived with the two analytical techniques. Furthermore, both regular and irregular sampling distributions were used to recalculate GSTA. Hydrodynamic data were collected in different locations around the breakwaters and net sediment transport directions were calculated in order to assess the accuracy of the sediment transport pathway directions derived with the different analytical techniques.The accuracy of settling velocity in determining the statistical parameters of the grain size distribution is identified, especially for the fine-medium sand sediments. Settling velocities produced better results than the sieving; the quarter-phi resolution producing the poorer results in comparison with the coarser half-phi resolution. The results for the different spatial sampling strategies are found to depend upon the number of samples utilised; that shows that the accuracy of the GSTA is based upon the ability of representing, adequately, the spatial distribution of the sediment parameters.     

Deformation of rubble-mound breakwaters under cyclic loads

Rubble-mound breakwaters usually consist of a core of small quarry-run rock protected by one or more intermediate layers or underlayers that separate the core from the cover layers, which are composed of large armor units. Failure of rubble-mound breakwaters may be due to effects such as removal or damage of the armor units, overtopping leading to scouring, toe erosion, loss of the core material, or foundation problems under waves. However, whether rubble mounds fail under seismic loads is unknown. High seismic activity can lead to large settlements and even to failure of the breakwaters. The design of coastal structures should take into account the most relevant factors in each case, including seismic loading. The objective of this study is to understanding the failure mechanisms of conventional breakwater structures under seismic loads on rigid foundations. Hence, an experimental study was carried out on conventional breakwater structures with and without toes, subjected to different dynamic loadings of variable frequencies and amplitudes, in a shaking tank. A shaking tank with a single degree of freedom was developed to study the simple responses of conventional rubble-mound breakwaters under cyclic loads. For each test, an automatic raining crane system was used to achieve the same relative density and porosity of the core material. The input motion induced horizontal accelerations of different magnitudes during the tests. The accelerations and the deformation phases of the model were measured by a data acquisition system and an image processing system. The experiments on the conventional rubble-mound type breakwater model were performed under rigid-bottom conditions. The model's scale was 1:50. Cyclic responses of breakwaters with toes and without toes were examined separately, and their behaviors were compared. The results were compared with a numerical study, and the material properties and failure modes were thus defined.     

An experimental study on the parameterization of reshaped seaward profile of berm breakwaters

Berm breakwaters are rubble mound structures in which the seaward slope of the initial profile may be reshaped to become more stable under severe wave attack. The stones in the seaward slope move from the initial slope to an equilibrium profile. A 2D experimental study has been carried out in a wave flume at a hydraulic laboratory of Tarbiat Modares University to study the effects of sea state and structural parameters on the reshaped profile parameters of such breakwaters. A series of 287 tests have been performed to cover the effect of various sea state conditions such as wave height, wave period, number of waves and water depth at the toe of the structure, and structural parameters such as berm width, berm elevation above still water level and armor stone size. All the tests have been done employing irregular waves with a JONSWAP spectrum. In this paper, first the reshaped profiles are schematized, and then the key parameters of the reshaped seaward profiles such as step height, step length and depth of intersection point of initial and reshaped profile are investigated, using results of this experimental work. Eventually, formulae that include some sea state and structural parameters are derived for estimation of the reshaped profile parameters. To assess the validity of the proposed formulae, comparisons are made between the estimated parameters of reshaped profiles by these formulae and earlier formulae given by other researchers. The comparisons show that the estimation procedure foretells reshaping parameters well and with less scatter according to the present data and also other experimental results within the range of parameters tested.     

Numerical modelling of the morphological response induced by low-crested structures in Lido di Dante,Italy

This paper analyses the morphological response induced by low-crested structures on the adjacent seabed, with particular interest in the erosion patterns that frequently develop at gaps and roundheads. The mechanisms responsible for erosion processes are examined by means of morphodynamic simulations with the numerical suite MIKE 21 CAMS developed by DHI Water & Environment. The main purpose of the paper is to verify how and how far a commercial code can predict bed evolution, in vicinity of defence structures in a real case, in order to get information that may be very useful for structure design and possible maintenance of existing works. The code is applied to a long-term simulation on a study site that is characterized by a composite intervention and suffers from severe erosion, Lido di Dante (Italy). The simulation covers the period (one year and a half) between two available multi-beam surveys, in order to have a detailed real bathymetry as starting point and another one, as accurate as the first, to compare numerical with surveyed results. All the other input data for the model, as waves, tide, wind and sediment characteristics, are derived from measurements in the area; moreover, the code is calibrated using wave and current data acquired during a field campaign. The bed evolution derived from simulations shows a good agreement with the survey both in the locations and in the intensity of erosive and depositional areas. A sensitivity analysis of results to some selected modelling parameters is performed on a shorter simulation period (one month), showing that accounting for bed slope in sediment transport modelling has greater effects in bathymetry evolution than the use of a complex sediment bathymetry or the representation of wave diffraction.