Random wave-induced scour at the trunk section of a breakwater

This paper provides a stochastic method by which the random wave-induced scour depth at the trunk section of vertical-wall and rubble-mound breakwaters can be derived. Here the formulas for regular wave-induced scour depth provided by Xie [Xie, S.L., 1981. Scouring patterns in front of vertical breakwaters and their influence on the stability of the foundations of the breakwaters. Report. Department of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands, September, 61 pp.] for vertical-wall breakwater and Sumer and Fredsøe [Sumer, B.M., Fredsøe, J., 2000. Experimental study of 2D scour and its protection at a rubble-mound breakwater. Coast. Eng. 40, 59–87] for rubble-mound breakwater are used. These formulas are combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process to derive the random wave-induced scour depth. Comparisons are made between the present method and the Sumer and Fredsøe [Sumer, B.M., Fredsøe, J., 2000. Experimental study of 2D scour and its protection at a rubble-mound breakwater. Coast. Eng. 40, 59–87.] random wave scour data for rubble-mound breakwater, as well as the Hughes and Fowler [Hughes, S.A., Fowler, J.A., 1991. Wave-induced scour predictions at vertical walls. ASCE Proc. Conf. Coastal Sediments vol. 91, 1886–1899] random wave scour data and formula for vertical-wall breakwater. A tentative approach to random wave-induced scour at a vertical impermeable submerged breakwater is also suggested.     

A wave-flume study of scour at a pile breakwater: Solitary waves

Understanding the sediment transport and the resulting scour around coastal structures such as pile breakwaters under local extreme wave conditions is important for the foundation safety of various coastal structures. This study reports a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles. A wave blacking gate with a simple operation procedure in the experiment was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume. An underwater laser scanner and a point probe were used in combination to provide high-resolution data of the bed profile around the pile breakwater. Effects of incident wave height and local water depth on the maximum scour depth, the maximum deposition height and the total scour and deposition volumes were examined. An existing empirical formula describing the evolution of the scour at a single pile in current or waves was extended to describe the scour at the pile breakwater under the action of multiple solitary waves, and new empirical coefficients were obtained by fitting the formula to the new experimental data to estimate the equilibrium scour depth. It appears that the maximum scour depth and the total scour volume are two reliable quantities for validation of numerical models developed for the scour around pile breakwaters under highly nonlinear wave conditions.     

Scour around coastal structures: a summary of recent research

This paper summarizes the results of the European Union Marine Science and Technology (EU MAST) III project “Scour Around Coastal Structures” (SCARCOST). The summary is presented under three headings: (1) Introduction; (2) Flow and scour processes with the subheadings: flow and scour processes around vertical cylinders; flow and scour processes at detached breakwaters; flow and scour processes at submerged breakwaters; and the effect of turbulence on sediment transport; and (3) Sediment behaviour close to the structure with the subheadings: field measurement and analysis of wave-induced pore pressures and effective stresses around a bottom seated cylinder; non-linear soil modelling with respect to wave-induced pore pressures and gradients; wave-induced pressures on the bottom for non-linear coastal waves, including also wave kinematics; development of a numerical model (linear soil modelling) to calculate wave-induced pore pressures—the effect of liquefaction on sediment transport; penetration of blocks in non-consolidated fine soil; and cyclic stiffness of loose sand.The paper also includes a discussion of the role of scale effects in laboratory testing and the applicability of the results obtained in supporting engineering design.     

Tentative engineering approach to scour around breakwaters in random waves

An approach by which the scour depth and protection layer width around the head of vertical-wall breakwaters, the scour and deposition depths as well as the protection layer widths at the round head of rubble-mound breakwaters in random waves can be derived is presented. Here the formulas for scour depth by Sumer and Fredsøe (1997) for vertical-wall breakwaters for regular waves and Fredsøe and Sumer (1997) for rubble-mound breakwaters for irregular waves are used. They are combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process to derive the scour and deposition depths as well as protection layer widths in random waves. Comparisons are made between the present approach and the Fredsøe and Sumer (1997) random wave scour data for rubble-mound breakwaters.     

RANS modelling applied to random wave interaction with submerged permeable structures

This paper is the second part of the work presented by Garcia et al. [Garcia, N., Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., 2004. 2-D numerical analysis of near-field flow at low-crested breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 51 (10), 991–1020]. In the mentioned paper, flow conditions at low-crested rubble-mound breakwaters under regular wave attack were examined, using a combination of measured data of free surface, bottom pressure and fluid velocities from small-scale experiments and numerical results provided by a VOF-type model (COBRAS) based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations. This paper demonstrates the capability of the COBRAS model to reproduce irregular wave interaction with submerged permeable breakwaters. Data provided by the numerical model are compared to experimental data of laboratory tests, and the main processes of wave–structure interaction are examined using both experimental and numerical results. The numerical model validation is carried out in two steps. First, the procedure of irregular wave generation is verified to work properly, comparing experimental and numerical data of different cases of irregular wave trains propagating over a flat bottom. Next, the validation of the numerical model for wave interaction with submerged rubble-mound breakwaters is performed through the simulation of small-scale laboratory tests on different incident wave spectra. Results show that the numerical model adequately reproduces the main aspects of the interaction of random waves with submerged porous breakwaters, especially the spectral energy decay at the structure and the spectrum broadening past the structure. The simulations give good results in terms of height envelopes, mean level, spectral shape, root-mean-square height for both free surface displacement and dynamic pressure inside the breakwater. Moreover, large-scale simulations have been conducted, on both regular and irregular incident wave conditions. The overall pattern of the wave interaction with a large-scale submerged breakwater is adequately reproduced by the numerical model. The processes of wave reflection, shoaling and breaking are correctly captured. The good results achieved at a near prototype scale are promising regarding the use of the numerical model for design purposes.     

Investigation of the effects of offshore breakwater parameters on sediment accumulation

Littoral sediment transport is the main reason for coastal erosion and accretion. Therefore, various types of structures are used in shore protection and littoral sediment trapping studies. Offshore breakwaters are one of these structures. Construction of offshore breakwaters is one of the main countermeasures against beach erosion. In this paper, offshore protection process is studied on the effect of offshore breakwater parameters (length, distance and gap), wave parameters (height, period and angle) and on sediment accumulation ratio, one researched in a physical model. In addition to the experimental studies, numerical model in which the formulae of the sediment discharge (i.e. the formulae of CERC and Kamphuis), was used was developed and employed. The results of the experimental and numerical studies were compared with each other.     

新型直立式透空堤消浪性能数值研究

为使防波堤同时具有良好的掩护效果和水体交换能力,提出了两种带有透浪通道的新型直立式防波堤。基于Fluent求解器建立了三维数值波浪水槽,通过与试验结果对比,验证了该数值水槽求解波浪与透空堤作用具有较高的精度。对两种防波堤在规则波作用下的透浪特性进行了研究,结果表明:透射系数K_t与透空率呈正线性相关,且可通过调整透浪通道间距,使相同透空率下K_t降低20%～30%。对同一结构,K_t随相对波长的增大而显著增大,但受相对波高的影响较小。在透空率大于0.16后,异型沉箱防波堤的消浪性能明显优于错位沉箱。基于数值计算结果,给出了以上两种透空堤波浪透射系数的经验公式。     

Three-dimensional numerical simulation on the interaction of solitary waves and porous breakwaters

A three-dimensional (3D) large-eddy-simulation model with macroscopic model equations of porous flow is proposed to investigate solitary waves interacting with permeable breakwaters. The major objective of this paper is twofold. First, we seek to evaluate the present model through the comparison with available simulated and measured data in the literature. The second aim, given the 3D nature of flow past a permeable breakwater, the variations of permeable breakwater modeled on both macroscopic and microscopic scales are examined. First validation is carried out with experiments on solitary wave propagation in a 3D wave basin and then runup on a vertical permeable breakwater with a gap in the lateral direction. A satisfactory agreement on the free surface elevation time series is obtained between model and measured results. Second, we replicate the experiments on a solitary wave interaction with a submerged permeable breakwater in a two-dimensional narrow wave flume. The porous medium is composed of spheres with a uniform size and arranged in a non-staggered regular pattern such that the porous medium can thus be modeled on macroscopic and microscopic scales. The numerical calculations indicate that the results obtained with macroscopic and microscopic modeling both fit the measurements fairly well in terms of the free surface elevations and velocity fields. Specifically, the microscopic modeling better simulates detailed phenomena such as flow injection from the porous medium and the initial stage of the formation of the main vortex in the leeward face of the obstacle. After the solitary wave completely propagates over the permeable object, the discrepancies between macroscopic and microscopic model results are insignificant. More accurate 3D results are used to determine the trajectories of fluid particles around the porous object to help understand the possible sediment movements in suspensions.     

Modelling the effect of wave overtopping on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around shore-parallel breakwaters

Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.     

Moored floating breakwater response to regular and irregular waves

The simple, yet versatile numerical technique particularly suitable for investigating the problem of the wave attenuation by moored floating breakwater was recently developed by the author. In order to verift the theory, nearly full scale model tests were conducted in a large wave tank ($\text{3.6}\text{m wide}\text{× 4.5}\text{m high}\text{× 106}\text{m long}$). Both random waves and monochromatic waves were used to compare the results. A breakwater with a rectangular cross-section and a hydrodynamically shaped «three-cycle cylinderå breakwater were tested. Incident wave spectra were successfully decomposed from the multi-reflected sea spectra. Frequency response functions of transmitted wave, sway, heave and roll motions of the breakwater as well as mooring forces were all experimentally determined and compared with the theory. Generally, excellent agreements between the theory, the random wave tests and the monochromatic wave tests were obtained for the hydrodynamically shaped breakwater. Except near the modal frequencies of body motion generally good agreement between theory and experiment was obtained for the rectangular breakwater. Near the modal frequencies, the body motion was damped by the flow separation at the sharp corners of the rectangular breakwater. Generation of higher harmonics in wave, body motion and mooring forces was observed and measured, but was generally small. The slow drift oscillation and its effects on the performance of the spring moored breakwaters were also small. From the comaprisons of the small scale test and the large scale tests, it was found that the scale effects were negligibly small on the performance of the spring-moored breakwaters.     

深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态分析

为推广应用新型弧面胸墙沉箱堤,结合模型试验和数值模拟对比分析了深水工况下弧面胸墙沉箱堤和削角胸墙沉箱堤的反射形态。波面和波压的数值结果与试验数据吻合良好,验证了数值方法的有效性。反射系数表明,入射波浪在与弧面胸墙沉箱堤相互作用过程中的能量损耗最小,其反射强于削角胸墙沉箱堤。波面和流速包络图显示,两种堤型均在堤前形成了部分立波系统,腹点和节点以四分之一波长的距离增量交替出现,胸墙和直立部分产生的反射波存在相位差,导致初始腹点的位置向海侧偏移。弧面胸墙沉箱堤前叠合波的相位差影响最小,腹点包络高度最大,节点包络高度最小,反射效应最明显。两种堤型前中下层水流的周期平均速度均较小且对称,表明底床泥沙不会产生趋势性输移,但迎浪基床上方的环流系统可能引起局部冲刷。相对而言,弧面胸墙沉箱堤前的环流强度最弱,更有利于冲刷防护。     

Numerical modeling of flow and scour below a pipeline in currents: Part II. Scour simulation

A vertical two-dimensional (2D) numerical model for time dependent local scour below offshore pipelines subject to unidirectional steady flow is developed. The governing equations for the flow and sediment transport are solved by using finite difference method in a general curvilinear coordinate system. The performance of two turbulence models, the standard k–ɛ model and Smagorinsky subgrid scale (SGS) model, on modeling time dependent scour processes is examined. Both suspended load and bed load are considered in the scour model. The suspended-load model is verified against two channel sediment transport cases. The change of bed level is calculated from the continuity equation of total sediment transport. A new time marching scheme and a sand slide scheme are proposed for the scour calculation. It is found that the proposed time marching scheme and sand slide model work well for both clear-water and live-bed scour situations and the standard k–ɛ turbulence closure is more preferable than the SGS model in the 2D scour model developed in this study.     

港内波浪要素计算方法研究

为分析不同计算方法在推算港内波要素中的适用性,分别采用JTS 145-2-2013《海港水文规范》计算方法和数学模型计算方法计算了防波堤为单突堤、双突堤和岛式堤三种典型布置型式的港内波浪.将计算结果与物理模型试验结果进行了对比,分析了不同布置型式时3种方法得到的结果之间的差异性,给出了在计算不同防波堤布置型式下的港内波浪要素时上述3种方法的适用程度.     

Simplified analytical solutions for wave interaction with absorbing-type caisson breakwaters

Simplified analytical solutions are presented to model the interaction of linear waves with absorbing-type caisson breakwaters, which possess one, or two, perforated or slotted front faces which result in one, or two, interior fluid regions (chambers). The perforated/slotted surfaces are idealized as thin porous plates. Energy dissipation in the interior fluid region(s) inside the breakwater is modelled through a damping function. Under the assumption of potential flow and linear wave theory a boundary-value problem may then be formulated to describe wave interaction with the idealized structure. A solution to this simplified problem may be obtained by an eigenfunction expansion technique and an explicit analytical expression may be obtained for the reflected wave height. Using the experimental work of previous authors, damping coefficients are determined for both single and double chamber absorbing-type caisson breakwaters. Based on the damping for a single perforated-wall breakwater, a methodology is proposed to enable the estimation of the damping coefficients for a breakwater with two chambers. The theoretical predictions of the reflection coefficients for the two-chamber structures using the present model are compared with those obtained from laboratory experiments by other authors. It is found that the inclusion of the damping in the interior fluid region gives rise to improved agreement between theory and experiment.     

Scour at the head of a vertical-wall breakwater

This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on the near-bed flow patterns, the bed shear stress amplification and scour around the head of a vertical-wall breakwater, using regular waves. The Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC), based on the diameter of the breakwater head, is found to be the major parameter that governs the flow and the equilibrium scour depth. Basic flow structures are identified as function of KC. The scour depth is found to increase with increasing the Keulegan-Carpenter number. The necessary extent of the conventional stone protection is studied. An empirical formula is worked out for the width of the protection layer as function of KC. Also, the effects of head shape, the angle of attack and the presence of a co-directional current are investigated. The results indicate that the scour depth is increased considerably in the presence of a current. Likewise, the scour depth is increased when the head shape is changed from a round shape to a sharp-edged one. It is found that the angle of attack is also an influencing factor as regards the scour depth.     

Deformation of breakwater armoured artificial units under cyclic loading

Rubble mound breakwaters usually consist of armour, filter and core layers. The units used in the armour layer are natural rock or concrete. Although natural rock is usually preferred, it is not always possible to apply it. There are some advantages to using concrete units: they have a high stability coefficient under wave attack, and they are easily produced at work sites. Tetrapod and cube blocks are widely used in breakwaters as armour units.Rubble mound breakwaters are subjected not only to wave activity but also other types of environmental loading, such as earthquakes. Although rubble-mound breakwaters are most likely the most common type of breakwaters, they have received little attention regarding their response to seismic activity. The objective of this study is to present the dynamic response of a breakwater armoured by tetrapods placed by two different placement methods and armoured by cubes during seismic loadings experimentally and numerically. A shaking tank was developed for the experimental study. The breakwater models sit on a rigid bed, and the model scale is 1/50. A one-dimensional shaking tank was used to understand simple responses of the rubble mound breakwaters under seismic loads. The tank allows only one degree of freedom. A raining crane system was developed to achieve the same packing density and porosity for the core material. The shape of the model breakwater before and after the tests was measured using a profiler and was recorded by computer. However, crest lowering and the level of damage on slopes were determined from profiler records. The dynamic responses of the model breakwaters were also investigated using an image processing technique. For numerical simulation, software using finite element method was used.The results obtained from the experiment and numerical model may help designers build breakwaters armoured by artificial units.