厦门海沧进港航道口门浅滩的形成与演变

本文报道了九龙江口口门浅滩地貌，沉积特征和水文泥沙特性，探讨了九龙江口口门浅滩特别是厦门海沧进港航道（即鸡屿北水道）口门浅滩的形成与演变。结果表明，厦门海沧进港航道口门浅滩是在江流，海潮，咸淡水交汇等多种因素综合作用和影响下形成的，其冲淤演变过程与屿河口沙坝不断淤积扩大有着直接的关系。     

关于登州浅滩作用的研究

１９９０－１９９３年对蓬莱西庄海岸附近海域进行了水文、水深、地质地貌和泥沙等１３项测量和调查。整理分析实测资料并结合数值计算，首次分析研究了登州浅滩的作用并着论述了浅滩被破坏后袭击岸边的波浪增大，波能增中到５－７倍，沿岸输沙量增中到３－５倍。文中指出西庄海岸侵蚀加剧的主要原因是，登州浅滩被破坏后失去防浪消波作用而造成的。     

莱州浅滩地貌特征及演化

莱州浅滩是山东半岛北部著名的海岸地貌,位于刁龙嘴外,呈NW—SE向延伸,浅滩众多,水道纵横,地貌状况复杂。目前对莱州浅滩的形成过程、沉积特征少有研究,或只针对某一方面有所论述。通过实地调查,并对资料进行分析,研究了莱州浅滩的沉积物分布特征、矿物组成、地貌特征、储砂量和演化过程,认为波浪作用是莱州浅滩形成的主要动力,控制着研究区地貌形态分布和莱州浅滩演化趋势。通过以上研究,结合莱州浅滩现状,指出了其目前在开发与保护中存在的问题,并提出了合理开发利用的建议。     

台湾浅滩构造台地的形成与发展

从地貌分类角度．前人有把台湾浅滩看成潮流沙脊、浪成沙丘、风成残留砂丘等等．显然，单纯从外动力角度分析次一级地貌类型，都无法解释台湾浅滩从整体上做为一个海底正地貌的成因．它又为什么横亘在海峡南部，其所在位置与海峡通道走向极不协调？本文从构造背景资料分析，指出台湾浅滩是海底构造台地．其台面在较近时期水动力作用下才形成海底沙丘群．     

辽东浅滩海域潮流运动特征及其与潮流脊发育的关系

本文基于多站海流周日连续观测资料，分析了辽东浅滩海域海域流场状况，尤其是潮流运动的特征。并初步探讨了潮流运动与辽东浅滩潮流脊发育的关系。结果表明，该区潮流运动的下列特征，对于潮流脊的形成和发育起着最重要的作用。（１）辽东浅滩海域以潮流为主的流场，基本呈北一南向的往复运动。（２）潮流流速一般为０．５－１ｍ／ｓ，且分布不均匀。有从南向北递减之趋势。但在沙脊北部，流速有所增加。（３）该区潮流为非正规半日     

菜州浅滩地貌特征及演化

莱州浅滩是山东半岛北部著名的海岸地貌,位于刁龙嘴外,呈Nw—SE向延伸,浅滩众多,水道纵横,地貌状况复杂。目前对菜州浅滩的形成过程、沉积特征少有研究,或只针对某一方面有所论述。通过实地调查,并对资料进行分析,研究了莱州浅滩的沉积物分布特征、矿物组成、地貌特征、储砂量和演化过程,认为波浪作用是莱州浅滩形成的主要动力,控制着研究区地貌形态分布和莱州浅滩演化趋势。通过以上研究,结合莱州浅滩现状,指出了其目前在开发与保护中存在的问题,并提出了合理开发利用的建议。     

渤海东部潮流动力地貌特征

渤海东部发育了典型的潮流动力地貌体系，它由老铁山水道冲刷槽、辽东浅滩沙脊和渤中浅滩沙席三者组成。前者为潮流侵蚀区，后两者为潮流沉积区。老铁山水道表层最大流速可达５ｋｎ，潮流强烈侵蚀海底；辽东浅滩表层最大流速１．３～２．３ｋｎ，Ｍ２分潮椭率绝对值小于０．４，潮流往复性强，形成潮流沙脊；渤中浅滩表层最大流速为１．２～１．６ｋｎ，Ｍ２分期椭率绝对值大于０．４，潮流旋转性强，形成潮流沙席。６号沙脊南端详测区的旁侧声纳镶嵌日显示的微地貌形态有海底沙丘、沙条、彗星尾标志和冲刷沟，表明沙席和沙脊均是现代潮流作用形成的底形。该潮流动力地貌体系中，净沉积物搬运从老铁山水道至两潮流浅滩；在详测区净沉积物搬运从南向北。     

夏季台湾浅滩周边海域叶绿素a荧光垂直分布对温盐的响应分析

根据2004年7-8月台湾海峡南部台湾浅滩周边海域的温度、盐度和叶绿素a荧光的观测资料,分析了调查期间温度、盐度、叶绿素a荧光垂直分布特征及其相互关系.结果表明,温盐环境因子的变化对叶绿素a荧光垂直分布有重要影响.夏季浅滩西侧近岸区出现的温盐跃层控制着叶绿素a荧光的垂直分层特征;浅滩南部陆架斜坡区中下层涌升水较强,于温盐跃层之中出现叶绿素a荧光的单峰;浅滩区水浅,基本上无(或弱)温盐跃层,叶绿素a荧光的垂向分布也较均匀;在浅滩区边缘,受上升流与浅滩强潮混合作用影响,叶绿素a对温盐的响应呈线性关系.     

莱州浅滩表层沉积物的分布特征及影响因素

以莱州浅滩附近148个表层沉积物粒度资料为基础,结合潮流场数值模拟和泥沙起动流速计算资料,分析了莱州浅滩表层沉积物分布特征,初步探讨了研究区表层沉积物分布格局的形成机理及影响因素.结果表明,莱州浅滩表层沉积物由滩顶向两侧,粒径变细,分选性变差;物源和浅滩形态控制着研究区的沉积物整体分布格局,而浅滩特有的水动力条件则导致沉积物发生进一步分异:滩顶沉积物的分布主要受波浪和潮流的联合作用,两侧沉积物的分布则主要由浅滩两侧的潮致环流控制.     

登州浅滩近期演变及沉积物输运趋势

利用登州浅滩区域2004、2010年2期水深地形资料以及86个表层沉积物样品,对登州浅滩近期(2004-2010年)规模、形态、冲淤演变及表层沉积物输运趋势进行了研究,结果表明,在挖沙活动及泥沙供应量降低等因素综合作用下,2004-2010年登州浅滩由1991-2003年间的缓慢恢复转而大面积蚀退,-10 m等深线围成的面积减少5.9km2;受浅滩大面积蚀退的响应,登州浅滩成为表层沉积物汇聚中心,使周边区域表层沉积物净输运方向均指向浅滩.     

珠江黄茅海河口洪季侧向余环流与泥沙输移

2012年洪季对珠江黄茅海河口湾侧向动力结构与泥沙输移过程进行了系统观测,采用动量平衡和泥沙通量机制分解等方法,分析了河口流、温盐和泥沙侧向分布特征以及泥沙输移过程,探讨了侧向动量平衡与泥沙输移机制。洪季黄茅海河口存在明显的侧向流,西滩和北槽均形成表层向东、底层向西的两层侧向流,拦门沙滩顶呈现表、底层向西、中层向东的三层侧向流,而拦门沙前缘侧向流整体向西。河口湾纵向净泥沙通量表现为北槽向海、西滩向陆,拦门沙滩顶及其前缘均向海;侧向净泥沙通量表现为滩顶及其前缘均向西,西滩向东、北槽向西。这种侧向泥沙辐聚过程是高浓度悬沙聚集于滩槽界面的重要原因,向陆净通量是西滩回淤的重要原因。滩槽间侧向余环流动量平衡主要是侧向斜压梯度力、科氏力和侧向平流作用。欧拉平流输运在侧向泥沙输运中起主要作用,潮泵效应也起重要作用。     

浅滩地形上波浪破碎对低频波能放大的影响

低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。     

湛江湾口外落潮三角洲演变特征

基于湛江湾口外海图地形资料,采用GIS与动力地貌分析的方法,研究了近50年来湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的冲淤变化特征,对湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的演变机制进行了探讨.湛江口外落潮三角洲体系包括口外东北浅滩、西南边滩及口门通道深槽.近50年来,东北浅滩东缘及滩顶出现了侵蚀后退,浅滩西缘和南缘呈淤积趋势,东北浅滩整体有西移南扩趋势;...     

山东莱州浅滩地区沉积特征与沉积作用

通过系统采集海底表层沉积样品进行粒度测试分析,对现代莱州浅滩地区的沉积类型、粒度特征、泥沙搬运方式、运移趋势及沉积动力、沉积机制进行了研究。结果表明,莱州浅滩是形成于松散碎屑堆积海岸岬角岸外的砂砾质水下沙洲／沙脊,它的形成深刻改变了浅滩地区原有的沉积动力和机制,在浅滩两侧海域各自形成了大致对称的潮余环流,分别与两个主要...     

Influence of Spur Dike on Hydrodynamic Exchange Between Channel and Shoal of Generalization Estuary in Physical Model Test

Widely applied in maintaining estuarial waterway depth, the spur dike has played an important role in currents and sediment exchange between channel and shoal and sediment back-silting in the channel. Through establishing a generalized physical model at a bifurcated estuary and conducting current tests under the joint action of runoff and tide, the influence of the spur dike length on current exchange between channel and shoal is analyzed. Results show that when the spur dike length reaches a certain value, the direction of the flow velocity shear front between the channel and shoal will change. The longer the spur dike, the larger the transverse fluctuating velocity at the peak of flood in the channel shoal exchange area, while the transport of the transverse hydrodynamics is obvious in the process of flood. There is an optimum length of spur dike when the shear stress in the channel and the longitudinal velocity in flood and ebb reach the maximum, and the flow velocity will decrease when the spur dike length is smaller or larger than the optimum. For a certain length of spur dike, the larger the channel shoal elevation difference, the larger the peak longitudinal flow velocity in the middle of the navigation channel in flood and ebb. However, the transverse flow velocity will first decrease and then increase. The transverse transportation is obvious when the channel shoal elevation difference increases.     

近岸较大区域波浪数值模型的比较

将适用于近岸较大区域波浪传播变形的三种模型,即基于抛物型缓坡方程的不规则波模型、引入浅水波浪谱 TMA 谱的 SWAN(simulating waves nearshore)模型以及采用默认 JONSWAP 谱的 SWAN模型应用于特拉华大学(University of Delaware)圆形浅滩实验进行比较.结果显示,抛物型缓坡方程和SWAN 的模拟结果与实验所测数据符合都比较好; SWAN 在非线性作用较强的浅滩中心及靠后部效果更佳,而抛物型缓坡方程由于没有考虑非线性作用,模拟得到的最大波高较实测值偏高,且波高变化较为剧烈.     

九段沙上沙南沿坍塌与外沙内泓效应

利用1986~2013年的长江口海图以及2013年九段沙上沙南沿的冲淤观测数据,分析了外沙内泓地形形成机理以及凸显的效应。长江口深水航道治理工程改变了九段沙湿地局部边界条件,导致江亚南沙沙尾下延,深泓线北移,上沙南沿坍塌后退。建议采取护滩工程措施,保护上沙湿地资源。     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

Oolitic shoal complexes characterization of the Lower Triassic Feixianguan Formation in the Yuanba Gas Field,Northeast Sichuan Basin,China

The Yuanba Gas Field is the second largest natural gas reservoir in the Sichuan Basin, southwest China. The vast majority of the natural gas reserve is from the Permian Changhsingian reef complexes and Lower Triassic Feixianguan oolitic shoal complexes. To better understand this reservoir system, this study characterizes geological and geophysical properties, spatial and temporal distribution of the oolitic shoal complexes and factors that control the oolitic shoals character for the Lower Triassic Feixianguan Formation in the Yuanba Gas Field. Facies analysis, well-seismic tie, well logs, seismic character, impedance inversion, and root mean square (RMS) seismic attributes distinguish two oolitic shoal complex facies – FA-A and FA-B that occur in the study area. FA-A, located in the middle of oolitic shoal complex, is composed of well-sorted ooids with rounded shape. This facies is interpreted to have been deposited in shallow water with relatively high energy. In contrast, FA-B is located in flanks of the oolitic shoal complex, and consists of poorly sorted grains with various shape (rounded, subrounded and subangular). The oolitic shoal complexes were mainly deposited along the platform margin. From the early Fei 2 Member period to the late Fei 2 Member period, the oolitic shoals complexes on the platform margin gradually migrated from the southwest to the northeast with an extent ranging from less than 100 km²–150 km² in the Yuanba Gas Field. The migration of oolitic shoals coincided with the development of a series of progradational clinoforms, suggesting that progradational clinoforms caused by sea-level fall maybe are the main reason that lead to the migration of oolitic shoals. Finally, this study provide an integrated method for the researchers to characterize oolitic shoal complexes by using well cores, logs, seismic reflections, impedance inversion, and seismic attribute in other basins of the world.