琼州海峡的波浪特征

本文依据多年实测波浪资料揭示了琼州海峡的波浪特征，结果表明，本海域以风浪为主，其出现频率占７６．７％以上。波浪随季节变化显显，觉浪向和强浪向频为一致它们是ＮＥ－ＥＮＥ。一般来说，本海区的最大波浪是由台风产生的；海峡两端海区的波浪比中闻海区的大。     

陆架海流的计算方法(Ⅱ)

二、海区类型Ⅱ——海湾、海峡 本海区的特点是邻近海岸、岸线变化复杂,不存在一致的海岸法向;流况的特点和海区类型(Ⅰ)基本相似。海湾、海峡、岛屿之间以及岸线多变的近岸浅海区域,均属于这种海区类型。     

渤海南部海域年极值波浪和设计波浪的特征研究

本文用统计计算和后报方法，获得了本海域不同海区多年年极值波高（Ｈ１／１０）资料。用Ｐ－Ⅲ型和短期测波资料频率分析方法，估算了各海区的设计波高，并依据文献［３］计算出对应的平均周期。用Ｋｏｌｍｏｇｏｒｏｆｆ适合度方法检验所得的结果表明，依Ｐ－Ⅲ型方法拟配的理论频率曲线与经验点十分吻合，从而确定了本海域不同海区最佳的设计波浪。分析本海域年极值波浪的基本特征表明，本海域除了渤海湾北部海区以外，主浪向一般为ＮＮＥ向，渤海海峡区的年极值波高和设计波高均为最大，而向莱州湾及渤海湾沿岸海区逐渐减小；在沿岸海区，由龙口至黄河口一带的极值波高较大。     

渤海湾西部海域波浪特征分析

本文利用本海区的实测波浪资料,对波浪的基本特征、变化规律、风与浪的相关关系,以及工程中所需要的不同重现期设计波要素及波浪破碎范围等进行了统计、分析、计算,为本海区的近岸经济开发建设提供参考依据。     

琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场影响的数值研究

利用COAWST数值模式就琼州海峡内潮流场对冬季风浪场的影响进行了研究。经实测数据验证，模型可较好的刻画海峡内的强潮流场。选定东、西向最大潮流时刻为典型案例分别就水位场及潮流场对波浪场的作用展开探讨。在琼州海峡东口处，西向最大潮流时刻下的正水位场增加了承载波浪运动的有效水深，有利于波浪能量的西向传播，进而使得当地有效波高增加。东、西向最大潮流均有利于琼州海峡东口处有效波高的增大，但前者主要通过流致辐聚效应实现，而后者主要经由流致波数位移生效。通过流致折射作用，东向（西向）最大潮流可在海峡中轴线以北的海区引起谱峰波向的逆时针（顺时针）旋转，而在以南的海区触发顺时针（逆时针）旋转。     

莺歌海洋站附近海域波浪特征分析

本文利用莺歌海站多年的波浪实测资料,对其附近海域的波浪要素的基本特征、变化规律、风与浪的相关规律进行分析研究,阐明了海区海浪的特点及变化规律。该海区属热带季风气候区,波浪主要受季风影响,季风时期的风向、风浪传播方向、涌浪传播方向基本一致。通过对观测资料统计分析发现:该海域波浪主要是以风浪为主,常浪向是SE向,次浪向是SSE向,强浪向是SE向,波高以轻浪为主。波型方面,春季和夏季SE向风浪占绝对优势,秋季和冬季NNW向风浪占优势,涌浪频率四季均是S向最大,并结合国内海洋波浪测量技术现状,在仪器装备研发、算法模型及数据处理分析软件升级、站位布局优化、计量标准化研究等方面提出几点建议。     

海口湾海域波浪特征分析

通过在海口湾北部海域布置波浪观测站,对采集到的实测波浪资料进行统计和波谱分析,研究了琼州海峡波浪季节性变化特征。观测期间最大波高为5.6 m,发生在台风"莎莉嘉"经过期间。无台风影响的月份最大波高为3.0 m。年平均十分之一大波波高、年平均有效波高、年平均波高分别为0.5 m、0.4 m、0.3 m,该海域波高总体不大。波周期范围主要在2～7 s区间。研究结果表明:1)观测海区各月基本都受到东北风影响并存在东北向的波浪; 2)发现海区波浪类型主要是风浪为主的混合浪; 3)发现观测海区一直受到南海传入的长周期波影响; 4)海区风向与浪向的一致性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,风速与波高的相关性在东北季风影响时段明显强于西南季风影响时段,该现象在台风月份表现得尤其明显。     

中国近海及临近海域海浪的季节特征及其时间变化

利用1992年12月-2005年3月TOPEX卫星高度计资料,对中国近海波浪季节特征及其时间变化进行了分析。分析结果表明,冬季平均波高最大,台湾海峡、南海北部、中南半岛东南海域以及吕宋海峡外侧是冬季的大浪区;夏季平均波高最小;春、秋两季为过渡期。对冬季大浪所在区域波浪时间变化的研究表明,年变化是其主要时间变化特征,而季节内变化是该海区的另一重要特征,并且以5 a为周期的年际变化与ENSO事件有着很好的对应关系。     

福建崇武海区波要素统计分布

本文利用福建崇武海区59次波浪连续观测记录,经统计分析,给出本海区波高、周期一元分布函数及波高-周期联合概率密度分布函数,并计算出波高、周期的特征值。     

海峡效应作用与局地水文气候特征分析

海峡对气流和海流的效应作用是明显的。由海峡效应作用使风力的增强和海况的恶性化，对海峡及邻近海区危害极大。但狭管效应又有得地调节了不同纬度和海区的气候和热状况。海峡效应作用与季节变化、盛行气流和天气系统不同季风天气过程的强度变化关系密切，与各海峡所处地理位置和走向有关等。     

Wave prediction using wave rider position measurements and NARX network in wave energy conversion

Several control methods of wave energy converters (WECs) need prediction in the future of wave surface elevation. Prediction of wave surface elevation can be performed using measurements of surface elevation at a location ahead of the controlled WEC in the upcoming wave. Artificial neural network (ANN) is a robust data-learning tool, and is proposed in this study to predict the surface elevation at the WEC location using measurements of wave elevation at ahead located sensor (a wave rider buoy). The nonlinear autoregressive with exogenous input network (NARX NN) is utilized in this study as the prediction method. Simulations show promising results for predicting the wave surface elevation. Challenges of using real measurements data are also discussed in this paper.     

Wave attenuation and dispersion due to floating ice covers

Experiments investigating the attenuation and dispersion of surface waves in a variety of ice covers are performed using a refrigerated wave flume. The ice conditions tested in the experiments cover naturally occurring combinations of continuous, fragmented, pancake and grease ice. Attenuation rates are shown to be a function of ice thickness, wave frequency, and the general rigidity of the ice cover. Dispersion changes were minor except for large wavelength increases when continuous covers were tested. Results are verified and compared with existing literature to show the extended range of investigation in terms of incident wave frequency and ice conditions.     

Wave groupiness and spectral bandwidth as relevant parameters for the performance assessment of wave energy converters

To date the estimation of long-term wave energy production at a given deployment site has commonly been limited to a consideration of the significant wave height H_s and mean energy period T_e. This paper addresses the sensitivity of power production from wave energy converters to the wave groupiness and spectral bandwidth of sea states. Linear and non-linear systems are implemented to simulate the response of converters equipped with realistic power take-off devices in real sea states. It is shown in particular that, when the converters are not much sensitive to wave directionality, the bandwidth characteristic is appropriate to complete the set of overall wave parameters describing the sea state for the purpose of estimating wave energy production.     

Virtual wave gauges based upon stereo imaging for measuring surface wave characteristics

A virtual wave gauge (VWG) technique based on stereo imaging is developed to remotely measure water wave height, period, and direction. VWG minimizes computational costs by directly tracking the elevation of the water surface at selected points of interest using a Eulerian based dynamic searching algorithm. Results show that the VWG technique developed in this paper dramatically improves efficiency by two orders of magnitude compared to the traditional Lagrangian–Eulerian based point cloud method of stereo image processing. VWG is tested against traditional wave wire gauges to within 98% accuracy for significant wave height. Furthermore, the flexibility of the VWG is demonstrated in two field applications. First in an offshore breaking wave case, an array of VWGs is used to efficiently measure wave directionality. Second to investigate the reflection coefficient of a rock-mounted structure interacting with nearshore waves, linear and spatial VWG arrays are designed and implemented based on a priori information of the wave field from a preliminary VWG measurement. Overall, we demonstrate that the flexible and computational efficient VWG technique has the potential to make real-time remote stereo imaging wave measurements a reality.     

Use of advanced directional wave spectra analysis methods

Frequency-dependent cross-spectral parameters for pitch-roll buoy data and parameters that describe directional wave spectra based on a directional Fourier series are developed by the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and other organizations that collect wave data. The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) specifies wave data product formats in its Wave Observation (FM 65 WAVEOB) code. Other organizations, such as the US Army Corps of Engineers Field Wave Gaging Program (FWGP), have similar specifications. A directional Fourier series has poor directional resolution compared with advanced methods such as those based on maximum likelihood and maximum entropy. Transformations are developed for applying the advanced methods and working with directional wave information stored in the WMO's FM 65 WAVEOB code, the FWGP's Wave Data Analysis Standard (WDAS) format, and similar codes and formats. Using the transformations, a directional Fourier series expansion method, a Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM), and a Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) are each applied to 115 sets of NDBC directional wave data. The MEM and MLM provide better directional resolution, but the MEM produces artificial double peaks. There are considerable differences for the three used methods. The developed transformation equations enable wave data users to apply the method that best suits their applications.     

近岸浅水波的计算

采用理论推导与实验资料验证相结合的方法对近岸浅水波衰减计算进行研究。研究表明，波浪与浅水区运动传播衰减是各种能耗共同作用的结果，为此总结了分子粘性能耗、湍流能耗、底部渗透能耗、底部摩擦能耗、软泥海底弹性能耗等，由建立波能流平衡方程出发进行理论推导，得出各种能耗影响下波浪衰减的计算公式，并将该理论公式与作者１９８０年波浪水槽试验资料比较，两者基本吻合，可适用于线性及非线性各种波能耗情况的计算。     

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.     

A note on nearshore wave features: Implications for wave generation

This paper analyses 10 years of wave data from the Mediterranean Spanish (Catalan) coast considering the mean wave climate and storm events from the standpoint of wind-wave momentum transfer and wave prediction. The data, registered by a buoy at about 12 km from the coastline, revealed two main groups of wave storms, with NW and E directions. NW storms correspond to a fetch-limited situation since the intense wind blows from land. Low-pressure centres located over the Mediterranean Sea produce easterly storms. Near the coast the eastern winds from the sea are replaced by NW winds coming from meteorological patterns over northern Spain and south-western France. Wave storms are classified and studied to obtain their main features (including spectral width, wave length, wave age and bimodality) and discussed in terms of wind-wave momentum transfer for operational wave predictions. Observations show a complex coastal wave climate. Fetch-limited storms presented smaller spectral widths while varying wind situations presented larger widths due to the presence of bimodal spectra. These wave features are highly relevant for wind–ocean momentum transfer and, thus, for current and wave predictions. The spectral width proved to be a good indicator of sea complexity and is thus applicable for improved wind drag estimations. A new drag coefficient formulation is proposed, based on existing wind dependent drag expressions, but including also spectral wave properties (a spectral width parameter) that highlights the characteristics of wind-wave generation under pre-existing swell. Such a formulation, once properly validated with field observations, is expected to improve wind-wave predictions.     

Simulation of directional waves in a numerical basin by a desingularized integral equation approach

A numerical solution is developed to investigate the generation and propagation of small-amplitude water waves in a semi-infinite rectangular wave basin. The three-dimensional wave field is produced by the prescribed “snake-like” motion of an array of segmented wave generators located along the wall at one end of the tank. The solution technique is based on the boundary element approach and uses an appropriate three-dimensional Green function which explicitly satisfies the tank-wall boundary conditions. The Green function and its derivatives which appear in the integral equation formulation can be shown to be slowly convergent when the source and field points are in close proximity. Therefore, when computing the velocity potentials on the wave generators, the source points are chosen outside the fluid domain, thereby ensuring the rapid convergence of these functions and rendering the integral equations non-singular. Numerical results are shown which illustrate the influence of the various wavemaker and basin parameters on the generated wave field. Finally, the complete wave field produced by the diffraction of oblique waves by a vertical circular cylinder in a basin is presented.     

Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.