A relationship between wave steepness and wave age for wind waves in deep water

Studying the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is important for describing wind wave growth with energy balance equation of significant waves. After invoking the dispersion rela- tion of surface gravity wave in deep water, a new relationship between wave steepness and wave age is revealed based on the “3/2-power law” (Toba, 1972), in which wave steepness is a function of wave age with a drag coefficient as a parameter. With a given wave age, a larger drag coefficient would lead to larger wave steepness. This could be interpreted as the result of interaction between wind and waves. Comparing with previous relationships, the newly proposed one is more consistent with observational data in field and laboratory.     

Energy dissipation through wind-generated breaking waves

Wave breaking is an important process that controls turbulence properties and fluxes of heat and mass in the upper oceanic layer.A model is described for energy dissipation per unit area at the ocean surface attributed to wind-generated breaking waves,in terms of ratio of energy dissipation to energy input,windgenerated wave spectrum,and wave growth rate.Also advanced is a vertical distribution model of turbulent kinetic energy,based on an exponential distribution method.The result shows that energy dissipation rate depends heavily on wind speed and sea state.Our results agree well with predictions of previous works.     

A mechanism of the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves

A mechanism is suggested in this paper concerning the effect of non-uniform current on the spectrum of short wind waves. According to this mechanism, a non-uniform current brings changes to the breaking criteria of short wind waves through modulating the surface drift, and hence enhances or weakens wave breaking. Some modification is proposed to the source term, which represents the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking so that the source term can incorporate this mechanism. In order to illustrate whether this mechanism is significant, a real case is studied, in which the wind waves propagate on a tidal current flowing over the sea bottom covered with sand waves. Finally, the effect of the new mechanism on the equilibrium spectrum of small scale gravity waves is discussed. Numerical estimates suggest that, for water depths less than 50 m and wavelengths less than 1 m, this current field may result in distinct spatial variations of the wave breaking criteria, the spectral rate of wave energy dissipation and the equilibrium spectrum of short gravity waves.     

Interannual variations in energy conversion and interaction between the mesoscale eddy field and mean flow in the Kuroshio south of Japan

Using 19-year satellite altimetric data, variations in the eddy kinetic energy, energy exchanges and interaction between the eddy field and mean flow are discussed for the Kuroshio south of Japan. In the seasonal cycle, the eddy kinetic energy level is a minimum in December/January and a maximum in April/May. In addition to seasonal variations, the eddy kinetic energy undergoes interannual changes. The energy transfers mainly from the mean flow to the eddy field in the Kuroshio south of Japan, and dominant energy exchanges mainly occur along the Kuroshio path south of Japan in each year from 1993 to 2011. In addition, there is often barotropic instability south of Honshu. Regarding interactions between the eddy field and mean flow, cyclonic and anticyclonic accelerations are also found along the Kuroshio path and they flank each other. There is cyclonic acceleration always imposed on southeast of Kyushu, and anticyclonic acceleration dominates south of Honshu from 2001 to mid-2005. Reynolds stress is used to explain the dynamic process of energy exchange. Furthermore, lag-correlation and linear regression analysis show that variability of the energy conversion rate and Reynolds stress involve responses to eddy acceleration at two time scales. The enhanced eddy acceleration induces large Reynolds stress, and enhanced Reynolds stress or barotropic instability further enforces energy transfer from the mean flow to the eddy field.     

STATISTICAL PROPERTIES OF WAVE GROUPS DESCRIBED BY GROUP-INDUCED LONG WAVES

A new method using group-induced second-order long waves (GSLW) to describe wave groups is presented in this paper on the basis of the GSLW theory by Longuet- Higgins and Steward (1964) . In the method , the parabolic relationship between GSLW and the wave envelope is first deduced , and then the distribution function of GSLW amplitude is derived . Thus, the formulae in terms of the moments of GSLW and short wave spectra for the average time duration and the mean length of runs of wave heights exceeding a certain level can be derived . A new groupiness factor equivalent to half the mean wave number in wave groups is defined by taking into account the widths of spectra of GSLW and short waves . Compared with theoretical results of others , ours are closer to measured wave data .     

Wave breaking on turbulent energy budget in the ocean surface mixed layer

As an important physical process at the air-sea interface, wave movement and breaking have a significant effect on the ocean surface mixed layer （OSML）. When breaking waves occur at the ocean surface, turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） is input downwards, and a sublayer is formed near the surface and turbulence vertical mixing is intensively enhanced. A one-dimensional ocean model including the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure equations was employed in our research on variations in turbulent energy budget within OSML. The influence of wave breaking could be introduced into the model by modifying an existing surface boundary condition of the TKE equation and specifying its input. The vertical diffusion and dissipation of TKE were effectively enhanced in the sublayer when wave breaking was considered. Turbulent energy dissipated in the sublayer was about 92.0% of the total depth-integrated dissipated TKE, which is twice higher than that of non-wave breaking. The shear production of TKE decreased by 3.5% because the mean flow fields tended to be uniform due to wave-enhanced turbulent mixing. As a result, a new local equilibrium between diffusion and dissipation of TKE was reached in the wave-enhanced layer. Below the sublayer, the local equilibrium between shear production and dissipation of TKE agreed with the conclusion drawn from the classical law-of-the-wall （Craig and Banner, 1994）.     

The Fractional Power Law of Wind Wave Growth in Deep Water for Short Fetch

Combining the 3/2 power law proposed by Toba with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind waves, wave growth in deep water for short fetch is investigated. It is found that the variations of wave height and period with fetch have the form of power function with fractional exponents 3/8 and 1/4 respectively. Using these exponents in the power functions and through data fitting, the concise wind wave growth relations for short fetch are obtained.     

Slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves

Capillary and capillary-gravity waves possess a random character, and the slope wavenumber spectra of them can be used to represent mean distributions of wave energy with respect to spatial scale of variability. But simple and practical models of the slope wavenumber spectra have not been put forward so far. In this article, we address the accurate definition of the slope wavenumber spectra of water surface capillary and capillary-gravity waves. By combining the existing slope wavenumber models and using the dispersion relation of water surface waves, we derive the slope wavenumber spectrum models of capillary and capillary-gravity waves. Simultaneously, by using the slope wavenumber models, the dependence of the slope wavenumber spectrum on wind speed is analyzed using data obtained in an experiment which was performed in a laboratory wind wave tank. Generally speaking, the slope wavenumber spectra are influenced profoundly by the wind speed above water surface. The slope wavenumber spectrum increases with wind speed obviously and do not cross each other for different wind speeds. But, for the same wind speed, the slope wavenumber spectra are essentially identical, even though the capillary and capillary-gravity waves are excited at different times and locations. Furthermore, the slope wavenumber spectra obtained from the models agree quite well with experimental results as regards both the values and the shape of the curve.     

The Equilibrium Range of Wind Wave Spectra： an Explanation Based on White Noise

Laboratory experiments and field observations show that the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra presents a – 4 power law when it is scaled properly. This feature has been attributed to energy balance in spectral space by many researchers. In this paper we point out that white noise on an oscillation system can also lead to a similar inverse power law in the corresponding displacement spectrum, implying that the – 4 power law for the equilibrium range of wind wave spectra may probably only reflect the randomicity of the wind waves rather than any other dynamical processes in physical space. This explanation may shed light on the mechanism of other physical processes with spectra also showing an inverse power law, such as isotropic turbulence, internal waves, etc.     

WIND WAVES SIMULATION IN THE NORTH AREA OF THE SOUTH CHINA SEA

A third generation wave model was developed to simulate wind waves in the South China Sea near Hong Kong. The model solves the energy conservation equation of the two dimensional wave spectrum by directly computing the nonlinear energy interaction among waves of different frequencies, thus avoiding the imposition of restrictions on the shape of the predicted spectra. The use of an upwind difference scheme in the advective terms produces an artificial diffusion which partly compensates the dispersive effect due to the phase velocity differences among various wave components. The use of a semi-implicit scheme for the source terms together with a special treatment of the high frequency tail of the spectrum allows a large time integration step. Verification of the model was done for wave hindcasting studies under conditions of two typhoons and two cold fronts in the north part of the South China Sea near Hong Kong . The model results agree well with the field measurements except that the presence of a dista     

Internal Waves Generated by Tidal Flows over a Triangular Ridge with Critical Slopes

Direct numerical simulations are performed to investigate the generation of internal waves by tide-topography interaction in a lab-scale model. The bottom topography is a triangular ridge with two critical slopes. With increasing tidal forcing, subharmonic instabilities are identified, which cause internal wave beams to become unstable and turbulent. Kinetic energy densities in the upward going beams from the ridge top are stronger than those from the ridge bottom, whereas the reverse is true for the energy flux. This disparity between energy and energy flux is due to the existence of strong pressure disturbances near the ridge bottom. On each side of the critical ridge, there exists an amphidromic point, from which internal wave beams are emitted in opposite directions. The calculated energy conversion rate scales linearly with the square of the forcing amplitude and agrees within 13% of theoretical prediction, even when turbulence occurs. The fraction of radiated baroclinic energy becomes saturated in the range of low excursion parameter considered, which agrees with the behavior in large-scale systems wherein mixing parameterizations must be used. The present work enriches the studies on the generation of internal waves over a critical triangular ridge.     

The fractional power law of wind wave growth in deep water for short fetch

Combining the 3/2 power law proposed by Toba with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind waves, wave growth in deep water for short fetch is investigated. It is found that the variations of wave height and period with fetch have the form of power function with fractional exponents 3/8 and 1/4 respectively. Using these exponents in the power functions and through data fitting, the concise wind wave growth relations for short fetch are obtained.     

The effect of Coriolis-Stokes forcing on upper ocean circulation in a two-way coupled wave-current model

We investigated the Stokes drift-driven ocean currents and Stokes drift-induced wind energy input into the upper ocean using a two-way coupled wave-current modeling system that consists of the Princeton Ocean Model generalized coordinate system (POMgcs), Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model, and the Model Coupling Toolkit (MCT). The Coriolis-Stokes forcing (CSF) computed using the wave parameters from SWAN was incorporated with the momentum equation of POMgcs as the core coupling process. Experimental results in an idealized setting show that under the steady state, the scale of the speed of CSF-driven current was 0.001 m/s and the maximum reached 0.02 m/s. The Stokes drift-induced energy rate input into the model ocean was estimated to be 28.5 GW, taking 14% of the direct wind energy rate input. Considering the Stokes drift effects, the total mechanical energy rate input was increased by approximately 14%, which highlights the importance of CSF in modulating the upper ocean circulation. The actual run conducted in Taiwan Adjacent Sea (TAS) shows that: 1) CSF-based wave-current coupling has an impact on ocean surface currents, which is related to the activities of monsoon winds; 2) wave-current coupling plays a significant role in a place where strong eddies present and tends to intensify the eddy’s vorticity; 3) wave-current coupling affects the volume transport of the Taiwan Strait (TS) throughflow in a nontrivial degree, 3.75% on average.